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Nebbiolo variety, originally from the Italian region of Piedmont, is one of the most ancient and valuable Italian varieties in winemaking. The first mentions of it date back to 1268 and were found in the State Archives of the city of Turin. Moreover, at that time the grapes were not called Nebbiolo, but Nibiol, and in the 13th-14th centuries they were already mentioned under different names in many parts of Piedmont.
The name “Nebbiolo” comes from the Italian “nebbia”, which means “fog”. It is believed that the name of the grape was given precisely by the association with the autumn fog that covers the hills of Piedmont during the harvest of this late variety. But there are other synonyms for this name:
- Prünent (Prunent) – this version is used in the young Piedmont appellation Valli Ossolane (Ossola Valley). There are two versions of its origin. According to the first, “prünent” comes from “pruina”, i.e. “bloom” or “bloom” due to the light whitish cover on the berries. The second theory is that the name comes from the word “prugna”, meaning “plum”, and is associated with the tradition of planting vines together with plum trees;
- Chiavenasca (Chiavenasca) – comes from the name of the town of Chiavenna in the province of Sondrio in Lombardy. This synonym is used in the Valtellina appellation in northern Lombardy;
- Spanna (Spanna) – the name of a clone growing in northern Piedmont, in the Gattinara and Colline Novaresi appellations, near the Piedmontese town of Novara. However, Spanna is not often listed on labels, because Nebbiolo is much better known on the market;
- Picotendro is a synonym for the variety in the highlands of the Aosta Valley (Valle d’Aosta).
It is not known from which varieties Nebbiolo originated, but DNA analysis has established its relationship with several varieties from northern Italy:
- Bubbierasco is a natural cross between Nebbiolo and the white Bianchetta di Saluzzo, which is no longer grown;
- Freisa is an increasingly popular Piedmontese variety descended from Nebbiolo;
- Neretto di Bairo (Neretto di Bairo) is a little-known variety from Northern Piedmont and Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy.
In addition, over the long history of Nebbiolo, several clones have been bred:
- Nebbiolo Lampia is the most common;
- Nebbiolo Michet is the result of a vine infection with the grapevine short-node virus, which changed its morphology;
- Nebbiolo Bolla is a once common but now disappearing clone;
- Nebbiolo Rosé is the clone that has the least in common with the original, has very pale skin and a different DNA profile.
Nebbiolo is often compared to a noble variety from Burgundy – Pinot Noir. But unlike Pinot Noir, which is successfully grown outside of France, the plantings of the Italian grape are not so much expanded outside its homeland. Almost all plantings of this variety are in Italy, in the regions:
- Piedmont, in its famous Barolo and Barbaresco appellations, as well as in the lesser-known regions of Gattinara, Ghemme and Roero;
- Northern Lombardy – in the Valtellina appellation;
- Sardinia, where there are just over 50 hectares of this grape.
In Europe, Nebbiolo can be found:
- in the French Languedoc, where makes part of the brand of the famous producer Mas de Daumas Gassac;
- in Switzerland in the canton of Valais;
- in Austria.
In the New World, winemakers have experimented with this grape somewhat more actively:
- In California, just over 60 hectares grow;
- Winemakers in Oregon and Washington have had good success;
- In Argentina, almost 200 hectares are distributed between the provinces of San Juan and Mendoza;
- About 9 hectares grow in Chile;
- Less than 20 – in South Africa;
- Winemakers in Australia have shown the greatest interest in Nebbiolo and have tried to grow it in its southern and southwestern parts;
Description of Nebbiolo variety
The Nebbiolo variety is quite difficult to grow due to the following features:
- it is very demanding of soils and will not grow everywhere, preferring marl with a high limestone content;
- its vegetation period is much longer than that of other Piedmont varieties;
- it bud break occurs early, so it is especially susceptible to spring frosts;
- Nebbiolo grapes ripen two to three weeks later than other popular Piedmont varieties Barbera and Dolcetto, so it requires a warm autumn.
But the efforts of winemakers in working with this capricious grape are rewarded with an incredible profile of wine, with the potential for surprisingly long aging.
The characteristic features of the organoleptic profile of Nebbiolo wine are:
- pale color, which with age, compared to other varieties, rather quickly turns from light ruby to light garnet, even brick;
- high acidity;
- very high level of tannins, which in young wine will seem astringent, but will allow it to develop beautifully for 15-20 years (or more). By the way, Nebbiolo is one of the most tart red varieties;
- the bouquet of the wine becomes incredibly multifaceted during the aging process. To the young aromas of fresh red cherry, raspberry, violet, liquorice and spice (thanks to the aging in barrels) are added tones of dried cherry, undergrowth, gunpowder;
- The most famous marker aromas of this grape are rose and tar, although it expresses itself differently in each Italian appellation.
In the last century, Piedmont winemakers tried to soften the astringency of Nebbiolo with very long aging in barrels, without paying attention to the level of phenolic maturity. As a result, the “green” harsh tannins did not soften even after micro-oxidation and long contact with wood. Modern winemaking methods take into account the long ripening period of this grape and its need for an ideal terroir, so the overall quality of the wines has improved significantly.
Italian wines from Nebbiolo
First, let’s look at the famous wine made from Nebbiolo grapes from the Piedmont region, known outside the country no less than Chianti or Prosecco:
- Barolo – “Wine of kings and the king of wines.” This is what they say about this tart, powerful, long-lived and multifaceted beverage. The Barolo appellation is located in the Langhe department in southern Piedmont and includes several communes, some of which are considered Barolo cru and are highly valued. The most famous communes are La Morra, Serralunga d’Alba and Montforte d’Alba. Barolo has the most suitable conditions for growing Nebbiolo – its southern and south-western slopes provide this late variety with enough sunlight and warmth, and the soils, consisting of marl with limestone, sand and various minerals, are the optimal terroir for Nebbiolo. According to the rules of the appellation, vineyards for Barolo must be located at an altitude of 170-540 meters above sea level. The wines must be aged for at least 38 months, 18 of which must be in oak barrels. For the Riserva category, the aging time is increased to five years. Regarding the duration of aging and the type of barrels, there are modernist and traditionalist movements among Barolo winemakers. The former are experimenting with 225-liter French oak barriques, while the latter remain true to the tradition of large Slavonian oak botti (Slavonia is a region in northern Croatia whose oak forests are also valued in the production of barrels for wine aging). Obviously, the results are different, and there is even an opinion that Barolo aged in French barriques loses its individuality.
- Barbaresco is the second famous appellation from Piedmont, also made from 100% Nebbiolo. Unlike Barolo, the clay-calcareous soils of Barbaresco have a higher clay content and more nutrients. Therefore, Barbaresco wines with a similar bouquet are less astringent than Barolo. This feature is reflected in the mandatory minimum period of aging: 26 months, of which 9 are in barrels, and 50 months for Riserva, of which 24 are in barrels.
- Roero is a neighbor of Barolo and Barbaresco, which is in the shadow of their fame. Roero red wines from the Nebbiolo variety are somewhere between Barolo and Barbaresco in style, possessing the tannins of the first and the fruitiness of the second, but their price is somewhat lower.
- Langhe Nebbiolo (Langhe Nebbiolo) is a larger appellation that covers the entire Langhe department, including the Barolo communes. Langhe wines are produced from vineyards in less advantageous positions, such as those located lower on a hill where the sun’s rays are less warm and cold air accumulates. However, in good vintages, Langhe Nebbiolo can offer quality comparable to Barolo at a more affordable price. In less successful years, Barolo winemakers may use this appellation if the quality of the resulting wines does not meet the requirements of the prestigious Barolo
- Nebbiolo d’Alba (Nebbiolo d’Alba) – wines from Central Piedmont that deserve attention
In the north of Piedmont there are several other little-known appellations where Nebbiolo must make up from 75% to 95% of the blend:
- Boca, Bramaterra and Colline Novaresi (Novaresi) – here this grape is called Spanna, and local varieties Vespolina and Uva Rara are added to the blend;
- Gattinara and Ghemme are two neighboring appellations in northern Piedmont, with tart, earthy wines made from 100% Nebbiolo.
In addition to Piedmont, Nebbiolo wine is also made in other regions of Italy:
- In Lombardy, neighboring Piedmont, in the appellation Valtellina, where the variety is called Chiavenasca. This area is cooler, so the best wines come from the southern slopes of the valley’s hills. The rare Sforzato di Valtellina wine is also produced here from dried Nebbiolo berries, in a style close to Amarone della Valpolicella;
- Several hectares are found on the island of Sardinia.
Pairing with dishes
Many Italian wines have high acidity and seem to be created for Italian cuisine, based on ingredients with similar characteristics – tomatoes, wine vinegar, fresh vegetables… Italian wines and Italian cuisine are a striking example of pairing based on the principle of locality.
Highly acidic and tart Nebbiolo will go well with juicy, even fatty meat of good quality:
- marbled beef;
- ribeye steak;
- entrecote.
Acidity and tannins will serve as a balancing element in such a combination, taking on some of the fat. A seven-year-old Barolo or a five-year-old Barbaresco will do here, where the fruity bouquet is still felt, but the tannin structure has remained strong.
With a simpler wine, Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d’Alba, you should choose more common and affordable dishes:
- pizza with tomato sauce – there can be many options, but it is better to avoid hot spices in its components. Spicy sausages in pepperoni pizza, for example, will only ignite the alcohol in the wine and dry out its already powerful tannins;
- spaghetti Bolognese is a classic of Italian cuisine;
- lasagna with meat and tomato sauce;
- osso buco from veal.
A deep and complex aged twenty-year-old Barolo should be served with noble products that will harmonize with the tertiary notes of the wine:
- toast with truffles – a classic pairing with aged Barolo is the aromatic Piedmontese white truffle. The pairing will also be harmonious with the black French truffle from Perigord;
- Rossini beef is one of the most exquisite dishes of French cuisine. It also has truffle notes (in the sauce or in fresh truffles), the juiciness of a quality cut of meat and the fattiness of foie gras, which is balanced by the acidity of Barolo;
- beef with truffle sauce.
Nebbiolo wines also go well with other famous Italian products and dishes:
- aged cheeses (Parmesan or Pecorino);
- Italian sausages;
- Mediterranean herbs (thyme, rosemary), which can be found in many Italian dishes;
- risotto with red wine.
