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After the rather cool and wet weather of the 2021 vintage (especially in the context of global warming, or climate change, which we constantly hear about nowadays), 2022 turned out to be more in line with the climatic realities of the present time. The lack of precipitation in winter and the rather dry and hot summer of 2022 especially affected the vegetative cycle of the vines and, accordingly, the organoleptic profile of the wines.
Weather conditions and criteria for a successful vintage in 2022
Before moving on to the assessments, let’s look at the weather conditions of the 2022 vintage:
- After a rather dry autumn in 2021, December 2021 was warm and humid, followed by sunny and dry January and February 2022. The beginning of March 2022 was cool, and the weather began to improve only towards the end of the month, which led to a later than in 2021 and uneven start to the cycle (bud break) of 2022.
- April frosts (April 2, 5 and 10) were less intense and earlier than in 2021, and had a less significant effect on the vineyard. However, precipitation in early April was also below normal, preventing the soil from replenishing the moisture deficit. Therefore, the growth rate of the vines remained within average values.
- May 2022 turned out to be one of the hottest in recent decades. For several days, the temperature reached 30 degrees, followed by localized thunderstorms and hail. This water allowed the vines to grow faster, but, again, it was below normal for the region. By mid-May, the first flowers appeared in the vineyards, and flowering proceeded quite quickly and in favorable conditions.
Thus, in 2022, the first criterion for a successful vintage was fulfilled – uniform and rapid flowering, in favorable conditions.
The hot beginning of summer brought long-awaited water in the form of thunderstorms and, in places, hail, which allowed for the acceleration of bunch formation and the growth of berries. July was characterized by sunny days, high temperatures (above 35 degrees) and no precipitation, which stopped the growth of berries and explains their small size at harvest time. The onset of ripening (véraison – the change in color of the berries from green to red or yellow, depending on the variety) was generally fast and uniform, with the exception of areas with particularly well-drained soils and young vines, where it was slower than the rest.
That is, the growth of the vines stopped before the berries began to ripen (another condition for a successful vintage), but relatively early due to a lack of moisture in the soil and high temperatures. Ripening was most uniform in areas where the soil retained the most moisture after the June rains. In areas with well-drained soils, ripening was slow.
In August 2022, temperatures approached average values, and the end of the season was warm and dry. The light rainfall did not affect the sanitary condition of the grapes, but allowed the ripening process to be unblocked, which had stopped in some areas due to a lack of moisture in the soil. Thus, the winemakers harvested the grapes without haste and were able to choose the most suitable date for this important event.
The harvest of white varieties began early – in the first half of August, which could mean a lack of aromatic substances and low acidity due to the too hot summer. However, Sauvignon Blanc, although with acidity below average for this variety, turned out to be quite aromatic, especially where the terroir allowed more moisture to be retained (clay and clay-calcareous soils). Semillon was harvested a bit later, as it is less sensitive to high temperatures, which allowed it to acquire quite fresh, but juicy aromas of stone fruits.
The red grape varieties produced small berries, with a significant concentration of sugar and quite low acidity (one of the lowest in the last 10 years). Merlot already had no “green” or “grassy” notes at the end of August, but only juicy and fruity aromas. This variety was fully harvested by mid-September in ideal weather conditions. Cabernet Sauvignon continued to ripen in the same favorable conditions, but by the time of harvest it also had quite low acidity for itself. However, both varieties were distinguished by an incredible concentration of anthocyanins, one of the highest in recent years. Thus, the last condition for a successful vintage – a dry and warm end of the season, which allowed late varieties to ripen, and winemakers to determine the optimal harvest date – was fully met in 2022.
Sweet wines and the development of noble rot
For vineyards producing sweet Bordeaux wines, warm and dry conditions at the end of the season are, on the contrary, not the most favorable, since dryness does not stop the development of noble rot but raisins the grapes. In August, the white varieties of the Sauternes vineyards were already perfectly ripe, but due to the lack of moisture, the berries began to dry out. Such grapes are not suitable for the formation and development of noble rot, so they were harvested in the first half of September.
Then, some winemakers decided to take a risk and wait for more favorable conditions, and some decided to complete the harvest by mid-October. However, from the second half of October and after a short wet period, the weather again became drier and windier, which allowed for the rapid and uniform development of botrytis. The harvest in the second half of October yielded concentrated berries, rich in aromas and high sugar content (but with low acidity), which gives hope for deep and concentrated Sauternes wines.
Conclusion: the 2022 vintage is a terroir vintage
As noted above, high temperatures, lack of rainfall and early harvesting have a negative impact on the aromas and acidity of white varieties, which leads to flat wines without much interest and potential. However, clay and clay-calcareous soils played an important role in the ripening of the grapes, so the wines from them turned out to be juicy, aromatic (especially with notes of stone fruit and tropical fruits), with low acidity, but quite harmonious.
For sweet wines, the harvest time was also important – the patience of winemakers who decided to postpone it until mid-October will allow them to obtain rich and full-bodied wines that can withstand decades and have the same low but balanced acidity.
The red varieties have generally made the best of the extreme conditions of 2022 (but favourable during key periods of the vegetative cycle). Merlot on clay-calcareous soils was juicy and fruity without being overripe, Cabernet Franc was aromatic and fresh enough, Petit Verdot, especially those not subjected to excessive water stress, was spicy and rich, and Cabernet Sauvignon was tart without being drying.
After the 2021 vintage, which differed from recent years in its classic Bordeaux character, freshness and high acidity, the 2022 vintage surprises with its richness and generally medium to low acidity, which, however, does not deprive the wines of their balance.
At the moment, the 2022 Bordeaux wines can be described as exceptional, but only time will tell their true potential.
In the next article I will publish dozens of tasting notes from the week of examples 2022. Source: Le millésime 2022 à Bordeaux, Pr Laurence GENY, Elodie GUITTARD, Dr Valérie LAVIGNE et Pr Axel MARCHAL, Institut des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin de l’Université de Bordeaux, Unité de Recherche Œ nologie Avec la participation de N. ALVAREZ, C. BAZ, V. TENINGE, L. RIQUIER et A. RABOT
