History of volcanic wines

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“Terroir of fire” is one of the most intriguing phenomena and popular trends in the wine industry. These drinks are also quite rare, and their organoleptic profile is unlike any other.

The territory where flames once blazed and lava erupted consists of the following components valuable in winemaking:

• Granite – most common;
• Basalt;
• Tuff;
• Pumice;
• As well as derivatives from them, consisting of a mixture of rocks of different composition, characteristics and origin.

Only 1% of such volcanic soils are found on the entire surface of the earth, so wine from there is a precious finding for oenophiles.

Planting vineyards in such places has several advantages at once. And not only in viticulture – the effect on the winemaker’s work is also only positive:

• A rich mineral composition of these lands, along with their low fertility, has a beneficial effect on the quality of the harvest, as well as on the versatility of the bouquet’s aromas;
• The uneven terrain, formed by erupting lava and a layer of ash. This allows you to take a favorable exposure of the site to the sun, on a hill, where it is fresher, and also reduce humidity and prevent diseases, thanks to the constant wind;
• Excellent drainage, since such a terroir contains little clay, which is why plants are forced to develop a deep root system to get to moisture. Thus, the roots pass through several layers of subsoil and absorb many minerals. This affects the richness of the grapes and, consequently, the complexity of the resulting organoleptic profile;
• “Toxicity” for phylloxera, which destroyed most of the European vineyards at the end of the 19th century. Therefore, such an area can boast the oldest, “pre-phylloxera” plots that exist more than 100 years.

The basis of unique eruptive soils is magma, which after ejection by a volcanic eruption, solidifies, transforms and mixes with other components. Depending on where the magma solidified, there are two types of igneous rocks:

• Effusive, formed when lava solidifies in cracks in the earth’s crust, on the surface or near it. They contain inclusions of volcanic glass (obsidian), small crystals, large porphyry segregations, and are distinguished by a dense porous structure with numerous small voids and a texture that reflects the direction of the flow. These include:
  • Basalt;
  • Tuff (not to be confused with sedimentary formations with a similar name);
  • Pumice.
• Plutonic (intrusive) – also formed from magma, but at a depth of 3-4 km, under pressure. This type does not contain obsidian, and its structure is denser, more uniform, and not porous. These include:
  • Granite;
  • Gabbro;
  • Diorite.
• Metamorphic – formed from igneous or sedimentary rocks under the influence of temperature or pressure. An example of this type of formation is gneiss.

Let’s consider the characteristics of these soils separately:

• Volcanic tuff is formed from ash that is ejected during an eruption, settles on the surface of the earth, and densifies over time. As a result, a light soft rock with a fine-grained texture is formed, easy to process for construction. The color of a particular type of tuff depends on the chemical components of the volcano, but they are all rich in minerals, since they contain a large amount of silicates (salts of silicic acids). Young tuff is soft and susceptible to weathering;

• Basalt – dark, with a fine-grained texture. It consists mainly of feldspars and pyroxenes, which improve the fertility of lands with this component. In addition, its dark color attracts solar heat during the day, radiating it in the evening. Therefore, areas located on such a terroir receive a little more heat, and the berries ripen better. Basalt is almost always found mixed with other eruptive components, such as tuff;

• Granite – its texture is dense, coarse-grained, and its color is pale. It consists mainly of feldspars, quartz, mica and amphibole minerals. Granite contains potassium, which not only has a beneficial effect on the growth of the vine, but also gives the aroma special shades. Granite soils are characterized by low fertility and good drainage;

• Gabbro – like basalt, it consists of feldspars and pyroxenes, but has a coarser-grained texture, since gabbro belongs to the intrusive type. Its shades are greenish or black;

• Diorite is a coarse-grained intrusive rock that differs from others in its mineral composition. It is found in some appellations in a weathered form.

Volcanic wines have individual characteristics for several reasons:

• The beneficial substances in the terroir form a special organoleptic profile – with a rich bouquet, a structural body, noticeable acidity with pronounced minerality. At the same time, the drink itself will be restrained, and not a “fruit bomb” with a bright but simple taste;
• Good drainage contributes to slight water stress of the vine, forcing it to concentrate on ripening the berries. Due to the limited amount of moisture, they grow only to a small size, accumulating a small amount of juice, which also affects the richness of aromas and body;
• In regions formed by lava flows and layers of ash, rare autochthonous grape varieties grow that cannot be found outside the corresponding wine-producing country, rather than international grape varieties.

The Italian region of Campania

Traces of eruptions (more or less ancient) are found almost throughout the country – from the northeast to the southwest. The most famous wine is the Campania region, where the famous Vesuvius and the vast eruptive area of Campi Flegrei, “Fire Fields”, are located. Several tens of thousands of years ago, powerful eruptions occurred here, which became one of the causes of the volcanic winter, after which the Neanderthals died out 40,000 years ago. Today, the Campi Flegrei is a national park and a protected geographical indication with some of the oldest vines in Europe.

The plantings in Campi Flegrei are located at the foot of and directly on ancient extinct volcanoes, in the suburbs of Naples. The production uses white autochthons: Falanghina, Biancolella, Coda di Volpe, and also red ones: Piedirosso, Aglianico.

Winemaking in the Campi Flegrei territory existed as early as the 700th century BC, and wines from Falanghina grape were highly valued by the upper class of the local population. Even the ancient Roman writer and philosopher Pliny the Elder noted the quality of wines from Falanghina. In Campania, both monovarietal wines and blends are produced. In the first case, the name of the grape is indicated on the label, and in the second case of a blend, “Bianco” is put on the label. Falanghina should make up at least 50-70%, and the rest is made up of Biancolella and Coda di Volpe.

Red wines are produced mainly from Aglianico and Piedirosso. The latter was widespread until the end of the 19th century, when phylloxera finally affected these lands, which were not particularly attractive to this parasite. Interestingly, its name translates as “dove’s foot”. The ridges of its bunches are reddish in color and are divided into three branches, indeed, resembling a pigeon’s foot. The bouquet of Piedirosso wines is black berries (black cherry, blackberry, black plum), earthy and coffee notes. They are complemented by the mineral salinity typical of soils with igneous rocks in the composition.

In the neighboring province of Basilicata is the appellation Aglianico del Vulture, where Aglianico grapes grow at the foot of the extinct volcano of the same name. This southern variety, well adapted to heat, is able to maintain its acidity despite the high temperatures of southern Italy. Therefore, in Campania, it is also highly valued both as a varietal and in blends.

The grapes grow on their own roots, since phylloxera, which does not like igneous rocks, does not pose a threat here.

In general, the characteristics of Campi Flegrei are favorable for high-quality winemaking. These include:

• a warm Mediterranean climate;
• a significant average altitude, which reduces the average temperature of the area;
• the influence of cool Mediterranean breezes;
• mineral-rich, porous volcanic soils with good drainage, due to which excess moisture does not remain in the ground.

The same Campania includes the name that bears the name of the famous (and still active) Vesuvius, which destroyed Pompeii – Vesuvio DOC. The vineyards are located right on its slopes (and earlier, according to historical sources, they grew right in the crater), on soils containing inclusions of solidified lava. Wines exist in dry versions of all colors, as well as sweet (liquoroso) and sparkling (spumante). The basis of whites (35-80%), both sweet and dry, is Coda di Volpe, supplemented by Falanghina or Greco di Tufo. Reds and pinks are Piedirosso in an assemblage with Sciancinoso. If the strength of the wine is 1-1.5% higher than required for Vesuvio DOC, then its label may indicate Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio (Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio), which translates as “Tears of Christ”. The following legend is associated with the origin of this special drink. The Lord God cried when he saw a piece of paradise stolen by Lucifer (according to another version – the atrocities of people on Earth), and where his tears fell, the vineyards of “Lacrima Christi” grew. Lacrima Christi exists in white (from the assemblage of Coda di Volpe, Falanghina and Greco), red (from Piedirosso), dry and semi-dry versions. It is also impossible not to mention two “white” protected names of Campania, which are considered among the best in Italy:

• Fiano di Avellino – located in the province of Avellino, and the autochthonous Fiano must be used in production (at least 85%). It is also grown in other Italian wine-producing provinces. But it is from Fiano, grown in Avellino, near the cool Apennines on magmatic and calcareous soils, that the most vibrant, aromatic, harmonious examples are obtained;
• Greco di Tufo

To the southwest of Naples, in the Tyrrhenian Sea, there is a volcanic island. Ischia with its own appellation Ischia DOC. Its terroir consists of factors favorable for winemaking:

• mineral-rich green tuff;
• warm Mediterranean climate;
• refreshing effect of sea breezes;
• amplitude of day and night temperatures, due to the altitude (more than 180 meters).

Ischia is famous for white wines from unique autochthons – Biancolella, which is found only on Ischia, and Forastera. But Grenache, Piedirosso, Barbera also grow here.

At the foot of Etna

The second active volcano in Italy, which from time to time reminds us of itself with eruptions, is located in Sicily. It is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, which, due to the diversity of its climate depending on the specific location, can even be considered a separate mini-continent.

The conditions for winemaking are almost ideal here:

• warm and dry climate;
• constant sea breezes;
• magmatic formations scattered throughout the territory;
• relief and elevations;
• absence of fungal diseases, which means no chemical treatment of vineyards.

These features make Sicily a suitable place for organic viticulture. But this, oddly enough, did not have the best effect on the quality of wines. In the 1960-80s, the Italian government encouraged the planting of productive industrial varieties, the use of agricultural technology and obtaining high yields. Old vines in the form of a bush, which produced a higher quality harvest, but in smaller quantities, were simply destroyed. These ordinary products were used to produce grape concentrate, “improving” wines from other regions of Italy, and for distillation. Modern Sicilian producers are gradually returning to quality winemaking, revealing the enormous potential of Sicily.

The symbol of Sicily is, of course, Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe. Just a few centuries ago, at its foot, farmers grew grapes for food and home winemaking, the autochthons grew mixed, i.e. according to the principle of coplantation. They were also collected and fermented together, without sorting by variety.

The protected geographical designation Etna DOC appeared in 1968. Since then, of course, the planting and fermentation of different varieties are carried out separately. Only 20 communes are part of this appellation. They are located in a semicircle, starting from the northern slope of the volcano, passing through the eastern, and ending in the southwest. On its western side, protected from fresh Mediterranean breezes, there are no plantings. Each side has its own microclimate, which means it produces wines that are different from the others:

• north – the coolest part, but with the least influence of sea breezes. The drinks here are distinguished by a strong structure, noticeable tartness and more restrained spicy or minty notes than juicy fruity ones. Red varieties predominate in the northern part, and the oldest plantings of Nerello Mascalese also grow;
• east – here the plantings are located at an altitude of 900 meters above sea level, just a few kilometers from it. Therefore, along with a sufficient amount of sunlight, they also receive coolness, which allows for a mature harvest with excellent acidity. The autochthon Carricante shows excellent results on the eastern slope, the most successful examples of which are even compared to Chablis. In the eastern part, there is also a small area producing high-quality white wines – Etna Bianco Superiore DOC. Of the red varieties, Nerello Mascalese grows in the east, whose organoleptic profile, compared to the northern slope, is softer and fruitier;
• southeast is the warmest side, almost unprotected from the sun’s rays, which is located at a lower altitude – 500 meters. But the heat here is softened by the proximity of the sea, which is located 15 km away. In such conditions, the harvest ripens a month earlier than on other slopes of Etna, and the wines are the juiciest and most open;
• southwest – the vineyards are located at a distance from the sea, at a significant altitude – 800 meters. Therefore, Caricante here acquires an elegant floral bouquet.

The slopes of Etna turned out to be too steep, unsuitable for mechanized winemaking with high yields, which was what winemakers and the government were aiming for in the second half of the 20th century. This allowed the destruction of old plantings that had survived the phylloxera epidemic to be avoided, thanks to Etna’s terroir. Volcanic components and sand are the two main elements that prevent phylloxera from living.

The main red varieties grown in the restless Sicilian appellation are:

• Nerello Mascalese – the predominant autochthon, which can withstand the southern sun. It retains acidity, has a bouquet of garden berries, herbs, pronounced minerality, structural tannins and excellent aging potential;

• Nerello Cappuccio – is most often used in blends with the previous one, the best examples of which are even compared to Barolo. Nerello Cappuccio is deeper, and the tannins are more velvety than those of Nerello Mascalese. Therefore, in the blend, it acts as a balancing, softening component (it may not have enough tannin structure on its own). It thrives best at a significant altitude above sea level.

White autochthons are:

• Carricante – has been growing at the foot of Etna for about 1000 years. It is perfectly adapted to southern conditions, ripens for a long time without losing acidity. Carricante can be characterized by a rather diverse bouquet, which is determined by the microclimate of the zone and the time of grape harvest. The classics are citrus (lime, lemon, grapefruit) and herbal hintsz (mint, fennel). The most elegant examples are distinguished by pronounced mineral notes, and if the grapes were harvested at the end of the season, honey shades will appear, and the texture will become creamy;
• Catarrato is the most widespread autochthon, whose plantings occupy 60% of the plantings in Sicily, and which grows only here. It is distinguished by its neutrality, lightness and low acidity, therefore it is used to produce large volumes of wines for concentrate, Marsala or distillation. It is also permitted in company with Carricante for wines of the Etna DOC name.