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In one of my articles, I talked about the so-called volcanic wines, the grapes for which are grown on soils of volcanic origin. And this is not only the solidified lava of the slopes of Etna, but also basalt, granite, as well as soils derived from them, partially including these elements. In fact, volcanic terroirs are diverse, but they have one common feature – plenty of minerals, which they receive to a greater or lesser extent from the ejected magma. Volcanic wine appellations are not necessarily located near active volcanoes either: they are found near extinct and dormant volcanoes. You can read more about the volcanic terroir of Europe in this article, but here I will touch on the volcanoes of France in more detail, or more precisely, its most famous volcanoes – the Auvergne region. Let me remind you that besides it, volcanic wines are found in the following French wine regions:
- Forez in Central Loire
- Rangen -a grand cru of Alsace
- North of Beaujolais
- Fréjus – a region in the east of Provence
Today, Auvergne is more famous for its nature reserve – the valley of extinct volcanoes, listed as a UNESCO heritage site – than for its wines. Once the third largest wine region in France, where the drinks were prized by kings, Auvergne currently has about 400 hectares of vineyards, but, thanks to the growing interest in volcanic wines, it is being revived, and its wines attract with their special character and individuality.
History of winemaking in Auvergne
A region in central France, located on the slopes of the Massif Central, which once boasted a vineyard of several thousand hectares, but practically disappeared after the phylloxera epidemic, shrinking to just a few hundred hectares. During the Roman Empire and the Middle Ages, the Auvergne region was valued as a source of quality wines, and from the 16th century, thanks to Henry IV and later Louis XIV, who particularly appreciated the wines of Auvergne, the wines of the region began to be considered prestigious. With the development of river navigation and railways, the wines of the region were delivered to Parisian bistros, and demand for them increased significantly. Then followed a rapid expansion of the vineyard area: from the end of the 18th to the middle of the 19th century, it increased from 21,000 to 34,000 hectares. But at the end of the 19th century, Auvergne did not escape the fate of other European wine regions – the phylloxera epidemic, which arrived here a little later. Then, at the beginning of the 20th century, there was a mildew epidemic, and then the First World War. Almost all of the Auvergne vineyards perished after two epidemics, and those vines that were grafted onto American rootstocks and replanted were abandoned by winegrowers, who preferred to work at the Michelin factory in the large city of Clermont-Ferrand. During the subsequent Second World War, the vineyards were also left in neglect. However, since the 1930s, recognition has returned to the wines of Auvergne, and in 2011 the Côtes d’Auvergne appellation appeared.
Features of its terroir
The vineyards of Auvergne are concentrated in one of its departments – Puy de Dôme, which bears the name of one of the oldest and highest volcanoes in Europe. More precisely, the vineyards here are located on the slopes of volcanoes (“puys”) that surround the Limagne Valley (“plaine de Limagne”) and create a unique terroir with valuable characteristics:
- The location of the vineyards at a significant altitude – from 300 to 500 meters above sea level (on average 400 meters above sea level)
- Favorable exposure to the sun depending on the slope
- The effect of the mountain wind foehn, which is created as a result of the collision of air masses saturated with moisture and rain clouds coming from the ocean with the mountain range. Thus, rain falls on the western side of the mountains, where the clouds are “stuck”, and on the other side, where the vineyards of Auvergne are located, the air is already dry and heated by evaporation.
- A dry, moderately continental climate, favorable for winemaking, which is facilitated by the foehn effect, which eliminates humidity and precipitation and regulates temperature differences. However, the summers here are quite warm, and the winters are cold.
- Special composition of the soils (mainly basalt and granite, but there are also marl and limestone): high content of minerals, but low content of organic matter, relatively high acidity, detrimental to parasites and good drainage.
- Location on the 45th parallel, dividing the northern and southern wine regions and considered the most optimal for growing grapes.
The combination of such characteristics allows you to get ripe grapes with a fairly high refreshing acidity and a multifaceted bouquet with pronounced minerality.
Grape varieties and types of wines of Auvergne
Wines of the protected name Côtes d’Auvergne – only still, in three colors – white, rosé and red. To obtain an appellation, whites must be 100% Chardonnay, reds and rosés must be Gamay or a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir (but the proportions of the latter must not exceed 50% of the blend).
In addition to the appellation, Auvergne also has a protected geographical indication – IGP Puy de Dôme, named after the famous volcano and the department itself. Here the criteria are much more lenient – a larger number of varieties are allowed and in different proportions, and the wines can be not only classic white, pink or red, but also grey, “gris” (very pale pink, obtained either in the same way as rosé wines, or from varieties with pink skins, such as Pinot Gris).
Auvergne wine producer – Désprat-Saint Vérny
A family business that has been in business since 1885 and was one of the first to notice the peculiarity of the volcanic terroir and the wines of Auvergne. Today, the company is in its fifth generation, which always respects the traditions and reputation of the historic estate.
Terre & Laves Chardonnay. Côtes d’Auvergne 2022 is a white wine without barrel aging, reflecting the terroir in the flexible Chardonnay variety, as well as the combination of the foehn effect, which ensures the ripening of the grapes, and the volcanic soils (the grapes are harvested from different sites located in the valley of volcanoes). The expressive bouquet reveals the ripeness and juiciness of stone and exotic fruits (white peach, apricot, passion fruit), citrus and white flowers, salinity and “stone” minerality, especially expressed in the long finish. The acidity of the wine is high and fresh.
809. Chardonnay Muscaté. Côtes d’Auvergne 2022 is a wine from the 809 clone of Chardonnay, “muscat” Chardonnay, due to its aromatic bouquet, reminiscent of the Muscat variety. Indeed, the aroma of this wine is bright, sweetish, with distinct notes of fresh grapes, sweet yellow mirabelle plum and orange blossom. The wine has a round, oily texture and a subtle sweetness (which comes from this texture and the juicy flavors), but the wine itself is dry and pleasantly fresh, even with a very delicate tartness. The finish is long and fresh with a slight minerality. Indeed, to some extent Muscat, but with higher acidity.
Gamay 348. Côtes d’Auvergne 2020 is a dry red wine made from the Gamay grape, which, according to the rules of the appellation, must be predominant in the blend. The vineyards grow on basalt soils, at an altitude of 348 meters above sea level, hence the name of the cuvée. The wine was not aged in barrels and reflects the bright fruity profile of Gamay, complemented by volcanic hints. Aromas are predominantly berry-like and fruity: black and red cherries, red plums, blackberries, cloves and a slight hint of dried rose. On the palate, the wine is soft and drinkable, the same juicy flavors of berries with a spicy note of cinnamon. Tannins are restrained, soft, good acidity, structure and a long finish.
Boudes. Côtes d’Auvergne 2022 – Assemblage of 60% Gamay and 40% Pinot Noir, without aging in barrels. The grapes grow on terraces and volcanic soils of the Boudes area, south of the Puy de Dôme volcano. The aroma is quite expressive, with a dominant of fruits and berries (cherry, red currant, strawberry, elderberry), with hints of licorice, thyme and dried rosemary. On the palate, black berries and fruits (black cherry, black plum, blackberry) and structured tannins, complemented by minerality in the long finish with a hint of black pepper.
La Légendaire Rouge. Côtes d’Auvergne 2019 is a special wine, to which I dedicated a separate article. Here I will dwell on its organoleptic properties. Assemblage of 60% Gamay of Auvergne (a separate clone of this variety) and 40% Pinot Noir from the best sites growing on different volcanic soils (basalt, granite, pumice), which in addition to aging in French oak barrels (for 12 months) will continue their maturation in cellars at an altitude of 1200 meters. The aroma is distinguished by depth and concentration, juicy, sweetish ripeness (black cherry, black plum, cherry jam, prunes, red currant, ripe raspberry, strawberry), an elegant spiciness (cinnamon, licorice, cloves), as well as pleasant herbal nuances (fresh rosemary, bay leaf). The bouquet is complemented by a slight woody note and aromas of dark chocolate and cocoa. On the palate, the wine shows the same concentration, ripeness, strong and structured, but velvety tannins. The wine is enveloping, expressive and multifaceted, with floral, fresh herbal and spicy notes in a long finish.
