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Montlouis-sur-Loire is a small (450 hectares) little-known wine region in the Loire Valley. However, its wines differ from the smoky, mineral Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, thanks to the special characteristics of the terroir:
- Combination of continental and oceanic influences
- Orientation of the vineyards to the south
- Influence of the Loire and Cher rivers, which soften the continental climate
History of the appellation
The town of the same name, which in the 5th century was called Mons Laudium, began to develop thanks to the extraction of local building limestone, which was exported from the local port located on the navigable Loire. At the same time, winemaking began to develop. But over time, the course of the river changed, the port became impossible to exploit, but the vineyards continued to give rich, sun-drenched berries, from which deep and concentrated wine was obtained.
The Montlouis name itself was one of the first to be allocated by the French authorities in 1938, when the principle of protected designations of origin had just appeared (let me remind you that the purpose of introducing the system of protected designations was to identify products with exceptional characteristics produced in a certain territory and to prevent their counterfeiting). Until that year, the Montlouis territory produced wines of the neighboring Vouvray appellation and was actually united with it. Since then, Montlouis winemakers have done a huge amountl of technical work (vine management, determining the maximum yield per hectare, etc.) to create the best conditions for viticulture on their terroir, which would emphasize its uniqueness of the wines produced. And in 2002, the appellation received its modern name – Montlouis-sur-Loire. The Montlouis Winemakers’ Syndicate was founded even earlier, in 1891, when phylloxera was devastating European vineyards, with the aim of jointly combating parasites and vine diseases. Today, this organization is involved not only in the technical (application of new winemaking and viticulture technologies) and administrative aspects, but also in communication about the region and its wines.
Types of wines and grape variety of Montlouis-sur-Loire
The white Chenin variety is the only one permitted for the production of wines (only whites) in the appellation. Originally from the Anjou region, Chenin was brought to Montlouis by river transport and acquired its first name, Pineau de la Loire (Pinot de la Loire, Loire Pinot). The monks of the abbeys that existed in Montlouis from the 9th-10th centuries experimented with this variety on their lands, and it is possible that the variety received its modern name Chenin thanks to the gravel elevation of Mont Chenin, where it produced a particularly good harvest. Chenin is distinguished by high acidity, freshness, as well as richness and the ability to accumulate sugar, thanks to which this variety is capable of producing sparkling, still dry and sweet wines. In addition to Montlouis, Chenin is the main variety for dry white wines in the appellations of Anjou, Saumur, Vouvray, Savennières and sweet wines of Vouvray, Quarts de Chaume and Chaume.
Tasting: Closerie Chanteloup L’Essentiel 2018 Montlouis-sur-Loire
Color: Pale lemon with a greenish tint
Nose: Juicy, with noticeable ripeness and concentration, yet delicate and fresh. Notes of citrus (lemon, lemon zest, lime, grapefruit), green apple and fresh quince are complemented by aromatic and slightly sweet shades of acacia, linden, as well as spicy notes of saffron and nutmeg, with a hint of warm brioche.
Palate: reflects the special characteristics of the terroir, which contribute to optimal ripening of the grapes – a round attack and a medium (+) body, richness and sweetness of flavors (naturally, the wine itself is dry), which is more pronounced than in the aroma (peach, candied lemon, fresh lemon, green pear and apple). There are also flavors of dried and fresh flowers (linden, chamomile, acacia). High acidity, which balances the rich profile of the wine. The aftertaste is quite long, with a hint of quince jam.
Overall impression and quality: a very good wine, ripe, balanced. The high acidity of Chenin is not piercing here, as the rounded attack and oily texture of the wine smooth it out perfectly.
Matching with food: you can play on the principle of similarity and serve Milanese risotto with saffron or white poultry or veal with saffron sauce, or with a creamy chanterelle sauce.
