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During the professional exhibition Wine Paris Vinexpo 2023, I was invited to visit the stand of the Georgian winery Khareba for a tasting of wines from autochthonous Georgian varieties. This estate is one of the most modern in Georgia, focused on the production of high-quality wines using both modern and traditional Georgian qvevri aging technologies. The Khareba vineyards grow European varieties of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Aligote, Muscat, Pinot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. But the real wealth of the winery is represented by the plantings of autochthonous Georgian varieties, some of which are quite rare (in addition to Saperavi, the winery has plots of Krakhuna, Kisi, Tsitska, Tsolikouri, Tavkveri – in total, the winery has 25 different varieties in its vineyard). The winery owns plantings in different regions of Georgia – mainly in Kakheti, as well as in Imereti, Racha-Lechkhumi and Samegrelo. In total, about 50 types of products are produced: from basic to premium wines, wines with protected geographical indications, made in accordance with modern and traditional technologies, as well as grape seed oil.
Winery Khareba Wine Tasting
Krahuna 2021. Wine from the autochthonous Georgian variety Krakhuna, from the Imereti region, located at the meeting point of maritime and continental influences, with calcareous soils. The wine is made in accordance with modern winemaking technologies (the traditional Georgian method involves aging in qvevri), without malolactic fermentation, with skin maceration for 4 hours. Krakhuna is a local Imertian variety, distinguished by its expressive aroma with hints of ripe stone fruits (peach, apricot, yellow plum), pear, apple, ripe lemon, white flowers (acacia, apple blossom) and fresh aromatic herbs (thyme, sage, mint). The wine is rich, medium-bodied, with a long finish and excellent concentration, balanced by high acidity.
Mtsvane 2021. Modern winemaking methods were also used here, but with an additional battonage for two weeks. The wine has a complex and rich bouquet, combining stone fruits (peach, apricot, nectarine), acacia and apple blossoms, expressive notes of autolysis (brioche, pastry, yeast), as well as the freshness of meadow herbs. Harmonious, rich and elegant wine at the same time.
Tsitska Qvevri 2012. Wine from an autochthonous Georgian variety, from the Imereti region, made using the traditional technology of aging in qvevri. The wine of the 2012 harvest was bottled in 2014, after a fairly long maceration (30% of the total volume of the pulp was used for aging). Very expressive aroma and taste, with a noticeable astringency, which the wine gives a small amount of tannins, due to the infusion on the pulp. A rich, varied bouquet of spices (cloves, nutmeg), dried flowers and herbs, damp undergrowth, dried apricot, dried orange peel and fresh quince. The taste is surprisingly concentrated, long-lasting and harmonious.
Kisi Qvevri 2018. For the aging of this wine from another autochthonous variety and the Kakheti region, 100% of the pulp was used, which is felt in the taste. If the previous wine from the Tsitska variety was only slightly tart, then the tannins of Kisi are noticeably drier. The aroma and taste of this wine are also bright and rich – apple, apple peel, quince, dried orange peel, dried lemon zest, cumin, caraway, dried ginger. In the long aftertaste, high acidity and richness are felt, but the wine is soft and rounded.
Saperavi 2014. Wine from perhaps the most famous Georgian red variety Saperavi, and the grapes for this cuvée were collected from a single plot. 30% of its volume was aged for 6 months in oak barrels. Aromatic, juicy wine with shades of dried cherries, prunes, fresh black cherries, licorice, undergrowth, mushrooms, black pepper. In taste, the attack is open and soft, with juicy fruity notes. The level of tannins is quite high, moderate (+) finish.
Saperavi Khareba 2018. This wine was aged longer in used oak barrels – 8 months. It is just as aromatic, but with fresher notes of black cherry, black plum, licorice, with a softer tannin structure, medium (+) body, amazing freshness, high acidity and a juicy cherry aftertaste with very pleasant shades of dried thyme and rosemary.
Tavkveri Qvevri 2021. A very rare autochthonous Georgian red variety, of which there are only 60 hectares throughout the country. It was once more widespread, but during the Soviet era it gave way to more productive and easier to grow varieties (Saperavi, Rkatsiteli). The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in qvevri. The aroma is very unusual, soft, slightly milky. Notes of cherry yogurt, rose, peony, blackcurrant, blueberry and dried aromatic herbs are felt. Tannins are quite firm and require additional aging in the bottle, acidity is high and fresh.
