Contents:
- The birthplace of Saperavi – Kakheti
- Description of the soil
- Grape varieties of Kakheti
- Characteristics and assessment of Saperavi wine
- Assessment according to the BLICE principle
The historical region of Kakheti is perhaps the most famous and most important wine region of Georgia: about 70% of the total area of vineyards is located in Kakheti, and the volume of production is about 80% of all wine in Georgia. Kakheti occupies 11,300 sq. km. (and the area of vineyards is measured in tens of thousands of hectares) and is geographically located in the southeast of the country, in the northeast it borders with Russia (from which it is separated by the Caucasus Mountain Range), in the west – with the region of Kartli (and also with a natural border running along the mountain range), and in the south – with Azerbaijan. From the southwest to the northeast of Kakheti runs the Tsivi-Gombori Range, which divides it into Outer and Inner Kakheti. Inner Kakheti is a smooth slope descending into the Alazani Valley – the largest valley in Georgia and a source of excellent wines. The length of the Alazani Valley is 160 km, the width varies from 5 to 40 km, and the altitude above sea level – from 200 meters on the southwestern border with Azerbaijan to 740 meters in the northwestern foothills of the Caucasus. Mountain rivers also contributed to the formation of the relief of Inner Kakheti – due to constant erosion, the mountain slopes have different exposures.
Outer Kakheti is located on a hill, in the valley of the Iori River – the main waterway of Georgia.
Climatic features of Kakheti
In general, the climate of Kakheti is moderate, and in its warmest places – subtropical, with hot summers and warm winters (the total annual temperature is from 3800 to 4000 °C, which is approximately the same as in the south of France). The vegetation period lasts about 210 days with an average temperature of 18.5 °C.
Kakheti is located farthest from the Black Sea, and therefore is least affected by it: the average temperature and amount of precipitation (400-800 mm) are lower here than in the west of the country. In addition, due to the proximity of the Caucasus Mountains, cold air masses descending from them further reduce the temperature and relative humidity. This effect is especially felt in the microzones in the foothills of the Caucasus Mountains.
Kakheti is located in the upper reaches of the Ioni and Alazani rivers, which, together with their tributaries, soften the difference between day and night temperatures and slightly increase the humidity of the surrounding air.
Thus, it is difficult to find a single definition for the climate of Kakheti. Rather, it is a whole mosaic of macroclimates, each of which determines one of the 14 microzones, and is also responsible for the uniqueness of their wines. For example, the legendary Alazani Valley, which I will talk about a little further, includes several microzones: Kindzmarauli, Tsinandali, Gurjaani and Akhasheni. The entire list of microzones of Kakheti producing wines with protected geographical indications is as follows: Akhasheni, Vazisubani, Gurjaani, Kardenakhi, Kvareli, Kindzmarauli, Kotekhi, Manavi, Mukuzani, Napareuli, Teliani, Tibaani, Tsinandali and Kakheti. I will also dwell on some of them in more detail a little later. And, finally, the characteristics of the macroclimate in different microzones are influenced by the location and orientation of the slopes on which the vineyards are planted. The vineyards of Tsinandali, for example, face north, which slightly reduces the daytime air temperature and a generous number of hours of sunlight and heat. This position allows white varieties to maintain a good level of acidity during ripening and not accumulate too much sugar, which would turn into an alcohol level that is too high for white wine during fermentation. In other words, cooler places are preferred for white varieties, so as not to get too heavy and inharmonious dry white wine. Despite all these favorable conditions for winemaking, some natural phenomena (hail and showers with strong winds in spring and autumn, drought in summer and very rare frosts) sometimes pose a threat to the current year’s harvest.
Soils of Kakheti
Soils of Kakheti are also unique. In the foothills, on the right bank of the Alazani River, brown forest and meadow soils predominate, rich in microelements (especially iron, which gives them a brownish tint) and representing clay soils with a sandy and calcareous component. Carbonate-humus soils are also found here, on which vineyards for vintage wines are also located.
On the left bank of the Alazani, the soils are carbonate-alluvial, chernozem, meadow and alluvial-meadow, well suited for viticulture.
Alluvial soils with loam and sandy structure are found on both banks of the Alazani River.
Soils of Kakheti have an important characteristic for obtaining high-quality grapes – despite their richness in microelements, they contain few nutritious organic substances, because the dry climate does not allow them to linger on the soil surface and promotes their rapid decomposition. Because of this, the vines are forced to develop a deep root system to reach water and the necessary nutrients. Thus, the vine focuses on ripening the berries, which has a beneficial effect on the quality of the grapes, and, reaching the water source, is saturated with microelements and minerals, which has a beneficial effect on the organoleptic profile of the wine. Due to this combination of environmental conditions, the wines are rich, full-bodied and tannic, with a special, earthy aroma, which is given to it by the iron contained in the soil
Grape varieties grown in Kakheti
- Saperavi
The Saperavi variety can be said to be a symbol of Georgia and is best known to lovers of Georgian wines. It is most widely distributed not only in Kakheti (where it originates), but also throughout Georgia.
Saperavi is one of the few varieties that has not only red skin, but also red flesh, which gives wines from this variety a rich and deep color. Saperavi is also valued for its resistance to cold, relative productivity, and a fairly high level of tannins and acidity, which allow Saperavi wines to withstand many years of maturation in the bottle. The last two characteristics are also valued in the assemblage of Saperavi with other varieties, as they give the latter a good structure and aging potential.
Saperavi is used to produce a number of wines of different styles: red and pink, dry or semi-sweet, made in the classic way with aging in qvevri or in the modern way – in oak barrels.
- Rkatsiteli
The white variety Rkatsiteli occupies the same important place in Kakheti, and in all of Georgia, as Saperavi. This frost-resistant variety is able to maintain a fairly high level of acidity at high temperatures and produce refreshing dry white wines, and at the same time mature to high sugar levels, allowing Rkatsiteli to be used for making semi-sweet wines. This variety is even used to produce fortified wines and brandy.
As I already mentioned, the diversity of grape growing conditions in Kakheti allows for the production of different wines that have received protected geographical indications. The most famous of them – Mukuzani, Kindzmarauli, Napareuli and Tsinandali – should be discussed in more detail, which I will do in separate articles with examples of wines and tasting. Here I will also tell you a little about the Alazani Valley, which is sometimes called the “Tuscany of Georgia”. This legendary region is named after the clear Alazani River, which flows through a picturesque valley surrounded by mountain ranges. The Alazani Valley is located at an altitude of 200-500 meters and has favorable climate conditions and soils for viticulture, which I mentioned above. However, unlike the microzones of Kindzmarauli or Tsinandali, the “Alazani Valley” is not a protected name for a wine region. Moreover, almost all of this wine is exported, and the wine itself belongs to the budget segment and is not of high quality. The production of “Alazani Valley”, a semi-sweet white (from the Rkatsiteli variety) or red (from Saperavi, to which a small amount of red Aleksandrouli or Ojaleshi varieties is sometimes added) wine with low acidity, began in 1977, when the Georgian wine industry was going through hard times, which affected the quality of this wine. Moreover, in the 2000s, counterfeit “Alazani Valley” entered the Russian market, which further undermined its reputation. After the embargo imposed on Georgian wines from 2006 to 2013, their production technologies improved, which had a positive effect on the quality of wines under the “Alazani Valley” brand. Today, its quality depends on the producer, but the correct wine can be found.
Tasting. Zurab Tsereteli. Saperavi 2015. Kakheti. Expert review of the Georgian wine Saperavi.
So I got to Saperavi from Kakheti, once bought at the Moscow airport, and the article about Kakheti is just what I needed to open it for a visual example. The microzone was not indicated on the label, which suggests that the grapes can come from different parts of Kakheti. This is not to say that this is bad, French merchants work on the same principle to maintain a constant supply, to avoid inconsistent quantity and quality of the harvest due to the inconsistency of the weather, and sometimes to obtain a complex and sophisticated bouquet.
So, here’s what I got based on my table.
Color: ruby, medium intensity, with light garnet reflections.
Aroma: medium intensity, very fruity (black fruits: black cherry, black plum, blueberry, red fruits: red plum, red currant), with a hint of spice (white pepper, liquorice) and oak (cocoa).
Taste: dry, medium-bodied wine with above-average acidity, above-average soft tannins, intensity above average flavours (flavours roughly match the bouquet of aromas: black cherry, red plum, red currant, licorice, but fruity nuances are expressed more vividly), the alcohol level is average and well integrated into the overall flavour profile, the aftertaste is average, with pleasant fruity nuances.
Overall impression and quality assessment: a good wine, with a pleasant, mainly fruity organoleptic profile, some complexity in the bouquet (most aromas are primary, but there are also well-integrated secondary aromas from oak aging). The aromas are delicate, not very pronounced, but the wine reveals itself better on the palate. The attack is soft and fruity, the wine is easy to drink, has a refreshing acidity, pleasant tannins, harmoniously fitting into the medium body of the wine and the average alcohol level. However, the aftertaste of this Saperavi is of medium length, which, together with the medium body and generally medium intensity of aromas and flavors, indicates a medium concentration and the possibility of aging for another 2-3 years.
BLICE quality rating:
Balance – a harmonious bouquet of aromas and flavors, where the fruits are complemented and not interrupted by hints of spices and oak, medium body and alcohol level are delicately combined with acidity and tannins above average, indicating that the wine is generally balanced
Length – average aftertaste length
Intensity– average intensity of aromas, but the flavors are expressed more vividly (intensity above average)
Complexity – there are primary (fruit) and secondary shades (oak and spices), and the primary shades dominate and are more varied, although they are represented by only two groups of red and black fruits – we can say that the wine has some complexity of the organoleptic profile
Expression – Saperavi, typical for its lighter and fresher style and higher plantings
Aging potential rating: a good quality wine, harmonious and enjoyable at the moment. I wouldn’t put it off for more than 2-3 years, as it doesn’t have enough structure and concentration for long-term aging, but is distinguished by a fresh and fruity style.
For what occasion and with what dishes: a simple but enjoyable wine that would be perfect for a picnic with kebabs and grilled steak (beef or lamb). If we move away from the classics, then a red tuna steak or white meat with red wine sauce. The most popular pairing of red wine with cheeses is less obvious here. Camembert and Brie risk giving a bitter taste due to the reaction of enzymes on their rind and the tannins of red wine (this also applies to other cheeses with a washed or blooming rind, especially if they are aged). Restrained hard cheeses (Emmental, Gruyere or young Comte) are also not an ideal pairing, but, nevertheless, more suitable for red wine. As for fresh cow and goat cheeses, they can be too delicate and “disappear” behind the taste of red wine.
I tried this Saperavi with baked leg of lamb under Georgian nut sauce bazhe and with Imeretian khachapuri. It turned out to be a quite harmonious combination: the wine withstood the specific taste of lamb and even the garlic in the sauce.
Photo 1 and 2: https://gruziapro.ru/kahetija-zhemchuzhina-gruzii/
Photo 3: https://georgiaintrend.com/ru/tours/wine-weekend/
