My choice was the wine LimNeon of Porto Carras, the single estate of the Greek PDO Slopes of Meliton, on the Sinthonia Peninsula in region of Halkidiki in Northern Greece.
PDO Slopes of Meliton was established in 1982, but its vineyards were planted in 1960s. Thanks to the Professor of University of Bordeaux and the father of modern winemaking, Emile Peynaud, the winemaking of Greece started its Renaissance. PDO Slopes of Meliton was the first to blend international grape varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with local Limnio, known from the ancient times and referred by Aristotle and Homer. So the historical importance of this variety can’t be underestimated. An another ancient indigeneous grape variety of Greece, Malagouzia, was also rediscovered thanks to researches in the winery of Porto Carras. The others, Athiri, Assyrtiko and Roditis, grown almost only in Greece (the two first could be found especially on the Island of Santorini) are also authorized in PDO Slopes of Meliton.
As the one can understand from the name of the PDO, its area is situated on the slopes of the mountain Meliton, between 300 and 400 meters of altitude (while the mountain itself is 811 meters high ). Soils here are composed from clay, sand and Limestone and are particularly suitable for viticulture. Climate here is Mediterranean, hot and sunny, but with cooling influences of the Mont Meliton and of the refreshing breezes from Mediterranean sea. This combination allows the grapes to ripen slowly and to keep their acidity.
Limnio grape variety
As I have already mentionned, Limnio was grown in Greece thousands years ago, and represents one of the most ancient grape varieties. It is believed to be originated from the north of the Aegean sea and one of Aegean Islands – Limnos, but today it can hardly be found there. Limnio had successfully travelled to the main continent and nowadays only 72 ha of Limnio are still grown on its island of origin. Limnio is more widely planted in Macedonia, on the Halkidiki Peninsula and Rapsani, which is situated more to the south, in Thessalia. The zines from northern Macedonian lands are considered to be the best.
Limnio is productive and suits well for vinegrowing in a hot climate of Greece: it ripens late, can stand with drought and has refreshing herbaceous aromas. In wine it gives a full body, high alcohol and tannins, which makes it an important component on blends (especially, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc), but Limnio prouduces also qualitative monovarietal wines. Limnio is not widely known and the promotion is focused on wine, containing French varieties or representing a Bordeaux blend. Even the PDO Slopes of Meliton admits maximum 30% of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
Tasting notes
Limnio of Porto Carras, choosed by La Cité du Vin was a mono-varietal wine, and an occasion to discover a pure expession of this variety, almost unknown outside Greece.
The vines of Limneo for this wine are planted on the altitude of 100-300 meters, on soils from sands and clay. The yield is low (5 t/ha), so the grapes czn accumulate enough flavor and depth to withstand 12 months of barrel aging.
Indeed, it is a wine from the south, with deep and concentrated aromas and flavours of red and black fruits (cerries and plums), mostly dried or stewed, but with a plesant balancing fresh touch. Dried herbs, black pepper and cloves were also present in a complex profile of medium to medium (+) intensity on the nose and on the palate, with medium (+) soft tannins and medium finish.
Sources
Wine Grapes. A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavors. Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, José Vouillamoz
https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-773-limnio
https://www.portocarraswines.gr/en/products/wines/32-red/45-limneon2.html
http://www.newwinesofgreece.com/lista_oinon_pop/en_pdo_slopes_of_meliton.html
https://www.portocarras.com/resort/domaine-porto-carras/
