Contents:
History of the appellation
Grapes have been grown in the Bordeaux region since Roman times, but viticulture really took off in the Middle Ages.
After the wedding of Eleanor of Aquitaine and the English King Henry II in 1152, the vineyards of Bordeaux and Graves entered a period of prosperity, thanks to the law of “privilege” adopted by Henry. The law made difficult, if not impossible, to export wines from regions other than Bordeaux through the city’s port until the wines of Bordeaux itself had been sold, effectively eliminating all potential competitors.
As demand for Bordeaux wines grew (both on domestic and international market, the vineyard began to expand beyond the suburbs to Langon, La Brède (one of the communes that make up today’s Graves area), Mérignac and Martillac (part of the Pessac-Léognan appellation, which was separated from Graves into its own appellation in 1987), in order to delimitate its particular terroir.
But the real golden age for Graves wines came in the 14th century, thanks to the popularity of “clairet” wines – deep pink (or light red) wines that were fresh and light, appealing to English merchants. At that time, the Bordeaux vineyard produced about 80% of such dark pink wines, 17% of reds and very little of whites.
From the 16th to the 18th century, serious and extensive estates began to appear, striving to produce high-quality wines, and Graves wines, “vins de Graves”, began to be considered real and exceptional Bordeaux wines. Exports to England and Northern European countries were growing, and Graves wines are the most important component of the international market.
The cataclysms of the late 19th century (phylloxera, mildew), the World Wars of the 20th century did not bypass the Bordeaux region and, in particular, Graves. In addition, the incredible frosts and a very cold winter of 1956 actually reorganized the Bordeaux vineyard – most of the vines of one of its varieties, Malbec, the least resistant to cold, died and were replaced by Merlot vines. Then, the expansion of the cities of Bordeaux and Langon threatened the areas intended for vineyards. But Graves remains one of the sub-regions that produces classic Bordeaux of very good quality.
Terroir
The climate here is oceanic, temperate, which means significant rainfall and humidity, as well as moderate temperature differences between seasons.
The soils are mainly gravelly (hence the name), which was created by the change of the course of the Garonne River. These soils are characterized by:
- good drainage, which avoids excess water (which can often occur in the region due to the oceanic influence and rain)
- the ability to warm up under the sun’s rays during the day and to give off this heat to the vines in the evening, contributing thus to a better ripening of the grapes
Gravels can be large or small, mixed with sand, clay, loam.
Types of wine
- red – the main and most famous type
- dry white – aged in barrel and not
- Graves Supérieures – sweet white wines
- Rosé – must be released under the name Bordeaux Rosé or Clairet
Tasting: Château Piron 2004 Graves Rouge
Château Piron is one of the oldest estates in the region, founded in late 1693. Since then, it has been owned by members of the same family, Boyreau, from generation to generation. The chateau’s vineyard includes plots with red and white vines. The terroir is composed from gravelly and limestone-clay soils and the influence of the Gât-Mort river, in whose valley the château is located. Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are grown from white varieties, and Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from red ones.
The red wines of the Graves region have good aging potential and, depending on the vintage, are capable of developing for 5, 10, 15 years.
I tasted a 19-year-old wine, and I could say that it was still at its peak.
Color: garnet (red-ruby with a brick shade)
Nose: quite expressive and typical for an aged wine – combines notes of dried cherry, dried strawberry, dried cranberry (but not without noticeable nuqnces of ripe black cherry), dried roses, slight minerality, as well as hints of undergrowth, mushrooms, dried aromatic herbs (dried mint, bouquet garni – thyme, rosemary and bay leaf), typical for aged Bordeaux.
Palate: the wine still surprises with its fullness of flavours and body (medium body). The bouquet combines very ripe and dried berries (ripe and dried black cherry and strawberry, dried raspberry), herbs (dried mint, dried rosemary) and tertiary notes of undergrowth, mushrooms and tobacco. Acidity is fresh, medium (+), finish is long (medium +)
Food matching: aged premium meat with a distinct flavor, dishes in red wine sauce (for example, roast wild boar)
