Graves de Vayres is one of the lesser-known appellations of the Bordeaux region (of which there are more than 50). Small in area (700 hectares, but 525 hectares are actually used for production due to urban expansion and uprooting of vineyards), the Graves de Vayres appellation is nevertheless one of the earliest protected appellations of origin of the Bordeaux region – in 2027 it has already had this status for 100 years.
Historical background
The history of winemaking in the region is, in fact, much older. Presumably in 50 BC, the Romans founded a settlement on its territory, which was located at a strategic intersection of the road connecting Bordeaux and Lyon, and the Dordogne River – an important waterway. Later, at this crossroads, called Varatedo (meaning “big pass”), a village of fishermen, potters and artisans was formed, who most likely began to grow the first vines.
The Middle Ages were an important period for the region, both in terms of wine and politics. From 1154 to 1453, the Guyenne region was under English influence, so the territory of the modern Graves de Vayres appellation became a strategically important place. The modern historical landmark of the appellation, Château de Vayres, became a military fortress and the theater of numerous battles. In the second half of the 14th century, the ruler of this chateau was allowed by the supreme authority in the person of the English King Edward I to hold fairs three times a year, which strengthened the importance of the region and favored the commercialization of its wines. At the end of the Hundred Years’ War, the region became French again, and the future King Henry IV gave Château de Vayres to the Vicomte de Gourgue, whose family owned it until the early 20th century.
The advantageous geographical location, which is a commercial crossroads, and the rich history (as mentioned above, the region has been under both the French and English crowns), made Graves de Vayres an important and well-known wine region. Already in the 19th century, winemakers noted the uniqueness of the local gravel soils and used the term itself, “Graves d Vayres”, “gravel of the Vayres region”, to emphasize the characteristics that local wines acquire thanks to these soils.
The Graves de Vayres Wine Syndicate (Syndicat Viticole des Graves de Vayres) was created in 1926 with the aim of patenting the name, as well as territorially limiting and protecting the gravel areas near the city of Vayres itself and those located on the Arvayres plateau. Incidentally, if we take this fact into account, the name has existed for almost 100 years. However, it was not possible to do this right away, because the Graves Bordeaux Wine Syndicate (Syndicat Viticole des Graves de Bordeaux), which regulates the name Graves on the left bank of the Garonne, challenged the use of such a similar name, fearing confusion. On February 11, 1928, the civil court approved the name Graves de Vayres, which meant recognition of the uniqueness of the region. The definitive and officially protected appellation of origin Graves des Vayres appeared on the wine map of France on July 31, 1937.
L’esprit des dex rives – “The spirit of two rivers” or “the spirit of two banks”, a unique terroir
This is how the appellation is described by the winemakers themselves and the President of the Graves de Vayres winemakers association, Yves Glotin.
It is located on the Entre-Deux-Mers plateau, a section between two rivers – the Dordogne and the Garonne. More precisely – on the bend of the Dordogne, on its left bank. On the right bank, directly opposite, are the famous names of the right bank (not only the Dordogne, but also Bordeaux) – Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac. That is why such a capacious definition – “the spirit of two banks” – perfectly characterizes the features of the Graves de Vere terroir:
- Gravelly soils with a reference to the well-known soils of similar composition in the Médoc, Graves and Pesac-Léognan
- The influence of the proximity of the river, which recalls the right bank of the Dordogne
But these two features still differ from the corresponding characteristics of more famous regions:
- Climate – the proximity of the river influences the climate of the region (which is generally characterized as oceanic), softening the temperature in winter, bringing coolness in summer and morning fog in autumn, which allows for the production of rich white grapes for the production of sweet wines.
- Soil characteristics – the gravel in the Graves de Verre region was washed up by the Dordogne from the Massif Central, and not by the Garonne from the Pyrenees, as in the Médoc, for example. Therefore, these gravelly soils are not identical in composition. In addition, the gravel is more deeply buried than on the surface.
More about the terroir
The unique composition of the soils, which gives inimitable characteristics to both red and white wines:
- a mixture of gravel brought by the Dordogne, pebbles, sand and clay. This composition directly (and favorably) affects the nutrition of the vine with minerals and the ripening of the grapes – the gravel heats up under the sun’s rays during the day and slowly cools down in the evenings, allowing red varieties to ripen better, and white varieties receive expressive minerality from its chemical composition. In addition, such gravel soils provide good drainage and avoid excess moisture, which forces the vine to develop a root system deep, behind the source of water. And passing through the various layers of soil, the roots absorb not only water, but also minerals, which will then be reflected in the taste of the grapes.
- The moderate clay component of the soil allows the vines to receive a limited amount of moisture, optimal for the ripening of grapes and sufficient for the existence of the vine, when it focuses on the ripening of grapes, and not on its own survival
- The typical sandstone with iron in the region, as well as gravel-sandy soils, provide a special mineral composition of the soils, which is reflected in the rich and varied organoleptic profile of the wines
Features of the climate of the region:
- Its type is defined as “moderate oceanic”, because it is influenced by the Dordogne River and the Atlantic Ocean
- The proximity of the river helps to soften the temperature difference between day and night, which favors the uniform ripening of the grapes
- In case of heat and drought, the humidity of the river helps to reduce the ambient temperature and preserve the acidity in the berries
- In general, this climate ensures slow ripening of the grapes, with the accumulation of a rich bouquet of aromas, excellent concentration and depth, while maintaining the acidity in the berries necessary for the balance of the wine
This terroir creates special wines that absorb the “spirit of both banks”, combining the structure and minerality of the wines of the Left Bank of Bordeaux, thanks to the gravel in the soil, with the juiciness and softness of the tannins of the wines of the Right Bank, thanks to the moderate climate and the predominance of Merlot in the blend.
In the next article I will go into more detail about the region’s wines and give some examples.
