Tasting of the week: Desprat St-Verny, Le tracteur Blanc 2021 – Puy de Dôme IGP

Today, I am adding another wine to the collection of volcanic wine tastings. Produced by the emblematic Auvergne estate, Desprat St-Verny, this lively, mineral and round white is made from Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, which grow in the heart of the Auvergne volcanoes, on clay-limestone soils.

Vinification in neutral stqinless steel vats allows the grape varieties to fully express their fruity characters, as well as the minerality of the soils.

Color: lemon, of medium intensity

Nose: aromatic, with exotic notes (lychee, pineapple), ripe lemon, yellow apple, apricot, a fine floral bouquet (hawthorn and acacia), a smoky mineral touch in the background, bitter almond and apricot kernel

Palate: gourmand, lively, with a round body, refreshing acidity and a good bitterness in the finish (bitter almond, apricot kernel). The flavors are gourmet, ripe, with a slight exotic hint of lychee and pineapple, ripe apple and white flowers (hawthorn, acacia). A pleasant fruity side (apricots and grapefruit in the mid-palate)

Quality assessment: a good wine with energy, originality and a certain complexity

Food and wine pairings: goat cheese, mild cheese, white fish, seafood… light dishes and not very pronounced in taste will go well with this wine.

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Tasting of the week: Rcheuli Qvevri, Kisi Limited 2019

The history of Tchotiashvili family began in the 18th century, on the banks of the Lopota River, in the Alazani Valley. Today, the 8th generation continues the family traditions, producing wines from indigenous grape varieties and vinified in qvevri. Two brothers, Kakha and Ucha, are at the head of the family business, and since 2002 they have chosen to focus on rare Georgian grape varieties and create high-quality wines.

Terroir and vineyard

The Tchotiashvili vineyard is located in the famous Kakheti region, near the Caucasus Mountains and the Lopota and Stori rivers. The mountains and rivers create favorable conditions for viticulture and the production of quality wines from local grape varieties Rkatsiteli and Saperavi (in this article you can learn more about the Kakheti terroir). But the Chotiashvili family also cultivates rare grape varieties Kisi, Mtsvane, Kakhuri Mtsvivani, Tavkveri, Khikhvi. Viticulture on the Chotiashvili vineyards is respectful of the soils and the specific conditions of a vintage, in order to minimize interventions and treatments.

Winemaking

The wines are produced by the traditional method of winemaking in qvevri, which requires a lot of labor and time. The bunches are placed whole in the qvevri, where they ferment in contact with the skin, seeds and stalks for several months. For this, not only the grapes with stalks and seeds must be ripe, but also the stalks, which gives the wine an exceptional concentration, an amber color and tannins unusual for a white wine. I talk in detail about the peculiarities of the unique technique of wine production in qvevri in this article. It is truly an art, very complex, but which produces extraordinary wines.

The production of these wines is really small. Each bottle is numbered by hand and each cuvée has only a few thousand bottles.

Tasting: Rcheuli Qvevri, Kisi Limited 2019

For this cuvée, the Kisi grapes underwent a maceration in qvevri in contact with skins, seeds and stalks for 7.5 months. During the winemaking process, no inputs were used (except sulphites to disinfect the qvevris) and the wine was not filtered before bottling.

Color: amber, slightly orange
Aromas: are discreet at first but honeyed, warm, even exotic (exotic fruits, passion fruit, papaya in the background, mango, dried pineapple), then distinct aromas of spices (saffron, ground cumin, cloves) of tobacco, of infused and dried black tea appear, completed by notes of yellow peach, dried apricot, dried golden apple, dried flowers (chamomile, linden, calendula), dried herbs (hay, basil), wax, chestnut honey, caramelized walnuts, fresh walnuts, toasted almonds and fresh hazelnuts after aeration.
Palate: offers well-marked tannins (even medium plus) and high acidity, flavors of lemon, bitter orange and dried grapefruit and citrus zest at the beginning and a long and fresh finish. There is also a nice freshness on the palate: notes of fresh lemon, green apple, dried apple skin and fresh herbs, combined with notes of cumin, clove, black tea and dried green tea, chamomile infusion, fresh lime blossom, chestnut honey and wax, fresh walnuts in the background, dried apricots and fresh almonds. A surprising and structured wine with the complexity and surprising freshness of fresh quince, as well as a good bitterness of grapefruit and dried lime. The finish is long, chiseled and fresh, very complex, with pleasant touches of dried and candied apple.

Evaluation of quality: A very good wine, even exceptional, atypical for European tastes, surprising, deep and complex, with a solid tannic structure and lively acidity, which give the wine a good base and development potential.

Food and wine pairings: I recommend to enjoy this wine on its own, without accompaniment. But I think, Georgian dishes, rich in spices, which are also found in the profile of this wine, or white meat dishes in a saffron sauce.

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Tasting after visiting the permanent exhibition La Cité du Vin, Porto Carras, LimNeon, PDO Slopes of Meliton

My choice was the wine LimNeon of Porto Carras, the single estate of the Greek PDO Slopes of Meliton, on the Sinthonia Peninsula in region of Halkidiki in Northern Greece.

PDO Slopes of Meliton was established in 1982, but its vineyards were planted in 1960s. Thanks to the Professor of University of Bordeaux and the father of modern winemaking, Emile Peynaud, the winemaking of Greece started its Renaissance. PDO Slopes of Meliton was the first to blend international grape varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with local Limnio, known from the ancient times and referred by Aristotle and Homer. So the historical importance of this variety can’t be underestimated. An another ancient indigeneous grape variety of Greece, Malagouzia, was also rediscovered thanks to researches in the winery of Porto Carras. The others, Athiri, Assyrtiko and Roditis, grown almost only in Greece (the two first could be found especially on the Island of Santorini) are also authorized in PDO Slopes of Meliton.
As the one can understand from the name of the PDO, its area is situated on the slopes of the mountain Meliton, between 300 and 400 meters of altitude (while the mountain itself is 811 meters high ). Soils here are composed from clay, sand and Limestone and are particularly suitable for viticulture. Climate here is Mediterranean, hot and sunny, but with cooling influences of the Mont Meliton and of the refreshing breezes from Mediterranean sea. This combination allows the grapes to ripen slowly and to keep their acidity.

Limnio grape variety

As I have already mentionned, Limnio was grown in Greece thousands years ago, and represents one of the most ancient grape varieties. It is believed to be originated from the north of the Aegean sea and one of Aegean Islands – Limnos, but today it can hardly be found there. Limnio had successfully travelled to the main continent and nowadays only 72 ha of Limnio are still grown on its island of origin. Limnio is more widely planted in Macedonia, on the Halkidiki Peninsula and Rapsani, which is situated more to the south, in Thessalia. The zines from northern Macedonian lands are considered to be the best.
Limnio is productive and suits well for vinegrowing in a hot climate of Greece: it ripens late, can stand with drought and has refreshing herbaceous aromas. In wine it gives a full body, high alcohol and tannins, which makes it an important component on blends (especially, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc), but Limnio prouduces also qualitative monovarietal wines. Limnio is not widely known and the promotion is focused on wine, containing French varieties or representing a Bordeaux blend. Even the PDO Slopes of Meliton admits maximum 30% of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Tasting notes

Limnio of Porto Carras, choosed by La Cité du Vin was a mono-varietal wine, and an occasion to discover a pure expession of this variety, almost unknown outside Greece.
The vines of Limneo for this wine are planted on the altitude of 100-300 meters, on soils from sands and clay. The yield is low (5 t/ha), so the grapes czn accumulate enough flavor and depth to withstand 12 months of barrel aging.
Indeed, it is a wine from the south, with deep and concentrated aromas and flavours of red and black fruits (cerries and plums), mostly dried or stewed, but with a plesant balancing fresh touch. Dried herbs, black pepper and cloves were also present in a complex profile of medium to medium (+) intensity on the nose and on the palate, with medium (+) soft tannins and medium finish.

Sources
Wine Grapes. A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavors. Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, José Vouillamoz
https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-773-limnio
https://www.portocarraswines.gr/en/products/wines/32-red/45-limneon2.html
http://www.newwinesofgreece.com/lista_oinon_pop/en_pdo_slopes_of_meliton.html
https://www.portocarras.com/resort/domaine-porto-carras/

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Le Parcours Permanenet, the Permanent exhibition at La Cité du Vin – an incredible museum in Bordeaux

Bordeaux is sometimes named the world capital of wine, and indeed, the one can dive in the world of wine here, thanks to numerous events and tastings, estates openned for visits and selections of fine wines in bars in city center.
Several years ago Bordeaux received an another wine sightseeing – La Cité du Vin – an impessive museum, dedicated to wine: to its history, culture and winemaking regions. An impresive building, which form is compared with wine, swirling in a glass, comprises a modern and colorful “Parcours Permanent” – a permanent exhibition, offering an immersion to the world of wine, from its first appearence thousands years ago till modern time. You can walk through e-vigne, telling you about the growing cycle of the vine and work in the vineyard and about the most planted international varieties; you can listent to the winemakers from all around the world, talking about their terroir with love and passion, you can watch a lot of small movies and presentations in every corner of the exhibition; you can touch and turn the globe and get a perfect illustration of world winemaking; and, finally, you can even smell the typical aromas of wines (particularly usefull for students in wine industry).
I visited the Parcours Permanent two times with my annual card (again, thanks to my husband for this present), but this place is worth to return. After a dive into an ocean of information, each visitor can go up on the 8th floor, to the Bar Belvédère, for a tasting of a wine from an original selection, admiring a splendide view on Bordeaux. Read about the wine I chose in the next article.

The amazing building of the wine museum La Cité du Vin

Near the museum

Globe illustrating the history of winemaking


Map of the distribution of different grape varieties


A room with different aromas that can be found in wine


And here you can listen some interviews with winemakers


My annual subscription

Huge selection of wines at Latitude 20 boutique in the museum

Expensive legendary wines in the boutique of La Cité du Vin

View from the window of the bar on the eighth floor, la Belvédère…

…where you can try wines from all over the world

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What are celebrity wines worth: Chateau Miraval (owned by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie)

The production of alcoholic beverages, be it whiskey, gin, tequila, cognac or wine, is a fairly popular area of investment among celebrities.
One of the most famous of these enterprises is, perhaps, Chateau Miraval, situated in Provence and owned by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. But let’s leave it to the press and the lawyers of the star couple to figure out who owns the Chateau and its vineyards to a greater extent: in my article, I will focus on the quality of the wine and the terroir of the estate.

Geographical location and features of the terroir

The vineyards of Chateau Miraval are located in the center of Provence, near the settlements of Correns and Brignols, which was once the residence of the Counts of Provence. If you look at the map of the region, this location belongs to the so-called “green Provence” and the appellation Coteaux Varois en Provence. The soils here are calcareous, calcareous-clayey, with some inclusions of gravel, tuff and slate. The terrain itself is relief and is formed by the surrounding mountain ranges – Saint-Beaume in the west, Bessillons in the north and Barres de Cuers in the south, which affects the local climate as follows:

  • Protects from cool air from the Atlantic
  • Creates a certain continentality of the climate, being a natural barrier
  • Favors mountain winds
  • Provides a relative height above sea level, the maximum value of which reaches 500 meters

The vineyards of Château Miraval are located on terraces, at an elevation of 350 meters, which in turn contributes to a significant difference in night and day temperatures, provides a favorable location of the vines under the sun’s rays, and also prevents stagnation of water in case of heavy rainfall.

Varieties and production technology
The wine blend consists of typical southern varieties – red Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, supplemented by the white Rolle variety (another more famous name is Vermentino). Let me remind you that the blending of red and white varieties in the form of finished wine (i.e. after alcoholic fermentation) in the production of rosé wine is prohibited by European law, but for pressing, i.e. before fermentation, bunches or fresh berries of white and red varieties can be mixed. Here, Grenache, Cinsault and Rolle are subjected to gentle direct pressing, and Syrah undergoes a short maceration, i.e. for this variety, the “saignée” method is used (which is translated from French as “bleeding”). Then, 95% of the wine volume undergoes vinification in neutral stainless steel vats, and 5% – in oak barrels using batonnage.

Tasting

Color: pale salmon
Nose: expressive, with delicate notes of red apple, raspberry, red currant, pink grapefruit and fresh almond (with a slight bitterness), as well as sour red cherry, rose hip and rose.
Palate: energetic and fresh, with a distiguished verticality, bright hints of red berries (raspberry, red currant, cranberry, red cherry), sourness and bitterness of grapefruit, as well as elegant floral notes (rose hip, rose, lily). Quite a long and fresh finish with high acidity and a salty mineral note.
Overall impression and assessment of quality: a good rosé wine, typical of Provence with its elegant fruitiness, airiness and complexity, but at the same time possessing a rounded but elegant texture.
For what occasion and what to pair it with: a classic Provencal rosé, with its characteristic delicacy and freshness. Perfect for a summer aperitif with light snacks, such as shrimp with avocado, lobster rolls, or caprese salad or vegetable appetizers.

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Tasting of the week: Effet de Fun, Héritage Volcanique Côtes d’Auvergne Rosé 2021

In the article on Auvergne wines I spoke of a unique effect of foehn, a wind, created by the collision of clouds with the mountains, which descends from the mountains and warms the air and which thus promotes the maturation of the grapes. However, the grapes accumulate enough sugar for a sufficient level of alcohol in future wines and notes of fleshy and gourmet ripe fruits, while keeping the freshness and acidity.
Rosé wine ” L’Effet de Fun” (a nice play on words for the name of a vintage) from the Héritage Volcanique estate is a fine example of this association of terroir particularities. The wine has tension and crisp acidity, wrapped in a round and gourmand texture, as well as with some complexity. It is a harmonious and pleasant wine, which will suit different occasions and light summer dishes.

Color: pale salmon
Nose: the aromas are expressive and warming, but subtle. It expresses the tangy notes of fresh and dried raspberry, fresh strawberry, dried strawberry and redcurrant. The is also a herbaceous hint (dried and fresh herbs), a slight smoky touch, as well as a delicate floral bouquet (rose, hawthorn). After aeration, slightly sweet gourmet aromas of red apple and apricots appear, balanced by the tanginess of pink grapefruit, passion fruit and a crunchy, nutty hint of passion fruit seeds.
Palate: The wine is fine, tangy and fresh, with a nice persistence and tension. The citrus notes (lemon, grapefruit) are more expressive on the nose. In the mid-palate, they are complemented by the flavors of apricot, raspberry, fresh and fresh herbs, combined with a floral hint of hawthorn.
Overall impression and quality assessment: a gourmet wine, ripe and warm on the nose, refreshing and delicate on the palate. Beautiful tension and balance. A gastronomic rosé with a certain complexity, but pleasant and accessible for summer evenings.
Food and wine pairings: grilled prawns , avocado-shrimp cocktail, raw fish or fish marinated in olive oil with lemon zest, vegetable salads or grilled fish (except those with a strong taste, like mackerel)… the choice is very wide.

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Tasting of the week: Closerie de Chanteloup L’Essentiel 2018 Montlouis-sur-Loire

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Tasting of the week: Closerie de Chanteloup L’Essentiel 2018 Montlouis-sur-Loire

Contents:

Montlouis-sur-Loire is a small (450 hectares) little-known wine region in the Loire Valley. However, its wines differ from the smoky, mineral Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, thanks to the special characteristics of the terroir:

  • Combination of continental and oceanic influences
  • Orientation of the vineyards to the south
  • Influence of the Loire and Cher rivers, which soften the continental climate

History of the appellation

The town of the same name, which in the 5th century was called Mons Laudium, began to develop thanks to the extraction of local building limestone, which was exported from the local port located on the navigable Loire. At the same time, winemaking began to develop. But over time, the course of the river changed, the port became impossible to exploit, but the vineyards continued to give rich, sun-drenched berries, from which deep and concentrated wine was obtained.
The Montlouis name itself was one of the first to be allocated by the French authorities in 1938, when the principle of protected designations of origin had just appeared (let me remind you that the purpose of introducing the system of protected designations was to identify products with exceptional characteristics produced in a certain territory and to prevent their counterfeiting). Until that year, the Montlouis territory produced wines of the neighboring Vouvray appellation and was actually united with it. Since then, Montlouis winemakers have done a huge amountl of technical work (vine management, determining the maximum yield per hectare, etc.) to create the best conditions for viticulture on their terroir, which would emphasize its uniqueness of the wines produced. And in 2002, the appellation received its modern name – Montlouis-sur-Loire. The Montlouis Winemakers’ Syndicate was founded even earlier, in 1891, when phylloxera was devastating European vineyards, with the aim of jointly combating parasites and vine diseases. Today, this organization is involved not only in the technical (application of new winemaking and viticulture technologies) and administrative aspects, but also in communication about the region and its wines.

Types of wines and grape variety of Montlouis-sur-Loire

The white Chenin variety is the only one permitted for the production of wines (only whites) in the appellation. Originally from the Anjou region, Chenin was brought to Montlouis by river transport and acquired its first name, Pineau de la Loire (Pinot de la Loire, Loire Pinot). The monks of the abbeys that existed in Montlouis from the 9th-10th centuries experimented with this variety on their lands, and it is possible that the variety received its modern name Chenin thanks to the gravel elevation of Mont Chenin, where it produced a particularly good harvest. Chenin is distinguished by high acidity, freshness, as well as richness and the ability to accumulate sugar, thanks to which this variety is capable of producing sparkling, still dry and sweet wines. In addition to Montlouis, Chenin is the main variety for dry white wines in the appellations of Anjou, Saumur, Vouvray, Savennières and sweet wines of Vouvray, Quarts de Chaume and Chaume.

Tasting: Closerie Chanteloup L’Essentiel 2018 Montlouis-sur-Loire

montlouis

Color: Pale lemon with a greenish tint
Nose: Juicy, with noticeable ripeness and concentration, yet delicate and fresh. Notes of citrus (lemon, lemon zest, lime, grapefruit), green apple and fresh quince are complemented by aromatic and slightly sweet shades of acacia, linden, as well as spicy notes of saffron and nutmeg, with a hint of warm brioche.
Palate: reflects the special characteristics of the terroir, which contribute to optimal ripening of the grapes – a round attack and a medium (+) body, richness and sweetness of flavors (naturally, the wine itself is dry), which is more pronounced than in the aroma (peach, candied lemon, fresh lemon, green pear and apple). There are also flavors of dried and fresh flowers (linden, chamomile, acacia). High acidity, which balances the rich profile of the wine. The aftertaste is quite long, with a hint of quince jam.
Overall impression and quality: a very good wine, ripe, balanced. The high acidity of Chenin is not piercing here, as the rounded attack and oily texture of the wine smooth it out perfectly.
Matching with food: you can play on the principle of similarity and serve Milanese risotto with saffron or white poultry or veal with saffron sauce, or with a creamy chanterelle sauce.

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Wine or not wine? Secrets and tasting of an unusual azure-colored drink

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Tasting of the week: Bovio 2006 – Barolo

This Barolo is one of the wines from my collection that requires patience, which will definitely be rewarded if you taste such beverages at the best moment, at the peak of their development.
This bottle attracted my attention long time ago, but knowing the characteristics of Barolo and their potential for aging, I firmly decided to wait until it would have at least fifteen years old. It would be a shame to open such wine before it fully opens up. The reward for patience was a unique, harmonious wine with a strong structure and a complex, developed, but not faded bouquet.

Nebbiolo – the main and only permitted variety for Barolo

Nebbiolo is an ancient variety, known since the 13th century, according to the archives of the city of Turin, under the name of Nibiol, and was the most widespread variety in Piedmont. One of the most common versions of the origin of the name “Nebbiolo” is a derivative of the Italian word “nebbia”, which means “fog”, with a reference to the autumn fog that covers the hills of Piedmont during the harvest of Nebbiolo. According to another version, “nebbia” is not a fog, but a whitish haze covering the skin of ripe berries. Over the centuries of Nebbiolo’s existence, the variety has acquired several mutations and clones:

  • Nibbiolo Lampia is the most common
  • Nebbiolo Michet is a form of the previous variety, formed as a result of infection with the grapevine fanleaf virus
  • Nebbiolo Rosé is a pink Nebbiolo, which today is considered as an independent variety, and not a clone of Nebbiolo
  • Nebbiolo Bollo is a previously common, but now rare variety

Nebbiolo has a long vegetative cycle – the bud break occurs early, but the grapes ripen quite late. The variety is also quite picky about soils, preferring a mixture of marl and limestone, especially in the north and south of Alba and on the right bank of the river Tanaro (which is precisely the area of Barbaresco and Barolo, famous for the quality of their Nebbiolo wines). Like Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo offers a surprisingly vivid reflection of the terroir and is capable of producing wines with a multilayered palette of nuances, high acidity and rich tannins. Here are just some of the aromas characteristic of wines from Nebbiolo: resin, rose, violet, wet leaves, licorice, dried cherry…

Barolo Terroir

The appellation is located in the south-eastern part of Piedmont, at the foothills of the Alps. Most of it is steep hills and slopes are facing south. The soils here are mainly a mixture of marl and limestone of marine origin, rich in magnesium and manganese or iron, depending on the site. It is here, surrounded by the Alps and the Apennines, under the sun and on such special soils that Nebbiolo matures sufficiently and shows its best in wines that will not even appear on the market for at least five years after the harvest (according to the requirements of the appellation), and will require at least twice as much patience.

Tasting: Bovio 2006 – Barolo

The Bovio winery produces elegant Barolos using traditional methods, in a classic style. Careful and meticulous work in the vineyards, selection of plots producing wines with different characteristics, long maceration, aging in large oak “botti” barrels and subsequent maturation in concrete vats – Nebbiolo from Bovio is an example of both classic Barolo and is able to reveal the individuality of individual Barolo Crus.

Color: garnet, medium intensity
Nose: expressive, slightly jammy, with delicate notes of dried berries (dried black cherry, dried raspberry, dried cranberry, dried strawberry, strawberry jam), black olives, and dried thyme. The wine gradually opens up in the glass, acquiring mineral (graphite), resinous and spicy hints (clove, cumin), and then floral (dried cornflowers, violet, dried rose), coffee, bitter almond, cherry stone, dried and fresh herbs (rosemary, dried basil, fresh and dried peppermint), cocoa and dried black berries (blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry). Characteristic tertiary notes (dried porcini mushrooms and truffles) are noticeable, but pleasant and delicate.
Palate: First of all, powerful, but velvety, “polished” by time, tannins and high acidity, characteristic of Nebbiolo are felt. The bouquet first reveals herbal notes of dried and fresh peppermint, basil and rosemary, complemented by the fruity acidity of dried raspberry, black cherry, fresh sweet cherry, black and red currant, as well as a mineral note of graphite, tertiary hints of white truffle, resin and dried rose. A long, developing finish and a complex bouquet.
Overall impression and quality: a fine Barolo at the peak of its development, which has retained youthful notes, acquired delicate nuances of maturity and an elegant tannic structure.
Matching with food: A classic is fresh white truffle, but the wine is perfect on its own, which is even better to fully appreciate it.

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Bordeaux Primeurs Week 2023. A Brief Look at the Vintage

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From 22 to 26 April, took place the 2023 Week of Primeurs of Bordeaux, a busy annual event when the region presents the wines of the previous year and when thousands of wine professionals evaluate their quality and potential.
How can we characterize 2023 in Bordeaux? The red wines were distinguished by a classic profile, ripe but lively and acidic fruitiness, dry whites – an excellent balance between juiciness, a round body and crisp acidity, and sweet whites – amazing depth, richness and harmony with a great freshness.

Weather conditions in 2023 in Bordeaux

Winter 2022-2023 was distinguished by temperatures close to normal, with cool and dry weather from mid-January. March turned out to be rather cloudy. These conditions ensured a uniform and not early start to the vegetative cycle. Thus, the budburst on vines occured after the frosts, which allowed (almost) to avoid crop losses.
The temperature in spring, despite the average value slightly above normal, was inconsistent: very warm periods were alternated by cooler ones, and as a result, the vines had different developpement, depending on the site. In addition, humidity and coolness, followed by heat, are favorable conditions for the appearance of mildew, which attacked the vineyard and forced winemakers to resort to frequent treatment. More regular temperatures in May allowed to moderate the growth of the vines.
Flowering in late May-early June was fast and uniform, in dry and favorable conditions, without problems.
Summer 2023 was characterized by chaotic and irregular episodes of rains, due to which the ripening of the berries was delayed. Almost all month of June was quite hot (with temperatures above 25 degrees), but at the same time generous in precipitation (in total, there were rains and thunderstorms for 8 days). July was also warm, but not hot, with little precipitation and a lack of sun, which also slowed down the ripening of the grapes. Abundant precipitations led to the absence of water stress, continued growth of the vines and an increase in the size of the berries. In such conditions, the vintage was not precoceous (like the previous ones), and not even “standard” in terms of ripening and the vegetative cycle. But from mid-August, the situation changes. Precipitation almost stops, and daytime temperatures rise to unusual for the end of summer levels. As a result, ripening is completed effectively and in favorable conditions. But uneven rainfall and different soil characteristics (more or less able to absorb and retain moisture, which the vines can access in case of drought) led to different reactions of the vines to these conditions and uneven ripening. Merlot on clay and clay-calcareous soils, as well as Cabernet, more resistant to drought, better endured the hot end of summer, unlike, for example, Merlot on soils with good drainage.
September also brought a warm and favorable Indian summer for completing ripening and for obtaining healthy grapes.

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First look at the wines of the 2023 vintage

Despite the hot and dry end of the vegetative cycle, the white wines are successful and balanced, precisely due to the rainy and cool beginning of the cycle. Late water stress and lack of sun in July allowed the white grape varieties to maintain a high level of acidity and acquire fresh aromas. The hot end of the cycle did not affect the overall balance of aromatic components, but allowed the harvest to maintain a favorable sanitary condition. Unlike 2022, in 2023, white grapes had less sugar and higher acidity, thanks to frequent rainfall, fresh temperatures and moderate amounts of sun.
For sweet wines, 2023 provided exceptional conditions. The point mntioned above, ensured the optimal development of noble mold, and the hot and sunny September – the concentration of unique aromas, acidity and sugar in the grapes.

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