Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto is a modern Italian liqueur that appeared just ten years ago. Yet, its history is rooted in the much older tradition of «rosolio»—one of Italy’s historic sweet, aromatized liqueurs and aperitifs.

When did rosolio originate?

The earliest references to «rosolio» date back to the mid-15th century. According to «The Oxford Companion to Spirits & Cocktails», rosolio was produced in northeastern Italy during this period and even exported to the courts of the Duke of Burgundy and King Edward IV of England. The producer of Italicus notes that the drink was also served at the court of the House of Savoy as an «aperitivo di corte» — a “court aperitif”. The term «rosolio» is traditionally linked to the Latin phrase «ros solis», meaning “sun dew” (rather than the rose flower, as one might initially assume, although roses were indeed used as an aromatic ingredient). One theory suggests the name “sun dew” was chosen deliberately: the ingredients—aromatic herbs and flowers—were typically gathered early in the morning before the dew had evaporated.
By the 17th century, rosolio had evolved into a category of sweet, aromatized liqueurs served at royal courts, banquets, and family celebrations—whether as an aperitif, a digestif, or alongside a meal. In the 18th and 19th centuries, rosolio became widely popular across Italy. Each region developed its own recipes based on local flora and fruit—such as rose, mint, or citrus.
By the 18th century, the drink was already known beyond Italy’s borders. By the 19th century, rosolio had evolved into a distinct category of sweet, aromatic liqueurs—smooth, sugary, and fragrant—prized precisely for these qualities. Thus, rosolio is not a single drink with a specific date of origin, but rather an entire category and a long-standing Italian tradition that took shape during the 17th and 18th centuries.
However, tastes shifted toward bitter drinks—such as vermouths, bitter aperitifs, and amaro—during the 19th and 20th centuries; consequently, rosolio gradually lost its former prominence and faded from the bar scene. Decades later, it was this nearly forgotten category that served as the inspiration for the creation of Italicus.

How Rosolio Became Italicus

In 2016, Giuseppe Gallo — a renowned Italian mixology expert—effectively revived the nearly forgotten rosolio tradition. He spent a full year experimenting with quintessentially Italian ingredients and drawing upon historical recipes to craft a modern interpretation of this historic liquor, transforming it into a versatile cocktail ingredient. On September 1, 2016, his creation, Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto, was introduced to the global market, targeting key hubs of modern cocktail culture: London, Milan, and New York.

Bergamot: The Key Ingredient in Italicus

Calabrian bergamot (Citrus bergamia) — bearing the Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) status—is the primary component of Italicus. It imparts a distinctive character that blends the citrus, floral, bitter, and subtly smoky notes typical of the fruit.

The flavor profile is further enriched by botanicals and citrus fruits sourced from various regions across Italy:

• Sicilian citron;
• chamomile;
• lavender;
• gentian;
• yellow rose;
• lemon balm.

With a moderate alcohol content of 20% ABV, a pronounced citrusy bergamot aroma, and a delicate floral character, Italicus is particularly well-suited for refreshing summer cocktails.

Complex Production Techniques

The refined and elegant character of Italicus is achieved by employing distinct techniques for its various ingredients, which are then blended into a harmonious bouquet. The traditional “sfumatura” method is used for bergamot and citron to extract essential oils from the peel, while floral and herbal components undergo separate maceration. The final blend yields a liqueur that combines citrus notes with floral and herbal aromas and a hint of bitterness.

A Concept Evoking Italy

The bottle’s distinctive ribbed design immediately catches the eye; it evokes classical architecture and the columns of ancient Roman temples, underscoring the brand’s connection to Italian history, while its azure hue calls to mind the Mediterranean Sea.
“Italicus” is a Latin word meaning “Italic” or “pertaining to Italy,” and the word itself naturally evokes the country’s name, “Italia”.
Thus, Italicus bridges ancient Italian traditions with modernity—a concept defining a brand that is far more than just a citrus liqueur. Every part of its name carries significance:

• Italicus – alludes to Italy
• Rosolio – references the traditional drink revived by the creator of Italicus
• di Bergamotto – highlights the liqueur’s key ingredient

From Forgotten Drink to Modern Cocktails

The Italicus website features recipes for original and intriguing cocktails, the most famous of which is the Italicus Spritz.
The classic serve combines Italicus using the classic formula (3 parts Prosecco, 2 parts liqueur, and 1 part soda), ice, and a garnish of three green olives.
The Italicus Spritz has become a key way to introduce the general public to a new incarnation of Italian “rosolio” — a variation on the popular spritz cocktail.
Unlike an Aperol or Campari Spritz, Italicus boasts a completely different aromatic profile. Here, rather than orange or herbal bitterness taking center stage, notes of bergamot, citrus, flowers, and herbs come to the fore, while the bitterness itself is barely perceptible.
This airier spritz pairs well with:

• green olives;
• light antipasti;
• fresh cheeses;
• seafood;
• dishes with citrus accents;
• light desserts

.

Why exactly three green olives?

One of the most recognizable features of Italicus cocktails (and not just the Italicus Spritz, as can be seen on the producer’s website) is the traditional garnish of three green olives. The olives highlight the drink’s Italian origins and its connection to long-standing Italian tradition, while also creating a contrast with the bergamot aroma: the saltiness and slight bitterness of the olives make the citrus-floral profile of Italicus stand out more vividly.

Why is Italicus interesting from a historical perspective?

The story of Italicus is compelling because it is not merely a recreation of a forgotten Italian liqueur recipe, but a modern reimagining of a nearly extinct category of spirits. Italicus blends several historical and contemporary trends:

• the tradition of Italian rosolio;
• the use of regional citrus and botanicals, characteristic of the drink’s production;
• Italian aperitivo culture;
• the modern cocktail industry;
• an interest in historical recipes and the revival of forgotten categories of spirits.

Pelmeni are often associated with simple home cooking, yet from a gastronomic point of view, they are far more interesting. Their thin, neutral dough and diverse fillings—complemented by spices, sour cream, vinegar, tomato sauce, or broth—create a wide array of flavor profiles that call for different wine pairings.
That is precisely why it is difficult to recommend a single wine—or even a single varietal—for pelmeni across the board. Meat-filled pelmeni pair well with red or rosé wines, depending on the meat and spices used; mushroom and fish versions suit white wines; while richer fillings like salmon or cheese can even be paired with sparkling wines.
This selection features 8 pelmeni recipes and specific wine appellations to help you choose a wine tailored not just to “pelmeni” in general, but to the specific filling and serving style (whether in broth, with sauce, or with sour cream).

How to pair wine with pelmeni?

When choosing a wine, consider four key factors:

• the richness of the filling—the higher the fat content, the more important wine acidity becomes to balance it;
• the intensity of the meat’s flavor—lamb and duck require a more robust wine than chicken, veal, or white fish;
• spices—pepper, cumin, and spicy sauces pair best with wines that are spicy or fruit-forward and low in tannins;
• sauce — sour cream, butter, vinegar, and tomato sauce can completely transform the character of the pairing.

In the article on wine and food pairing principles, I discuss the interaction of these components in detail, as well as the specific reasons why red wine pairs so well with red meat.
Let’s look at each component of the pelmeni serving to better understand how to choose a wine for this comforting dish:

• filling:
  • meat (beef + pork, beef + lamb) naturally calls for red wine. Since the filling has a pronounced flavor (spicy or simply peppery), the wine should have a rich flavor profile—at least medium-bodied—but with moderate tannins. Low to moderate astringency helps avoid unpleasant bitterness, harsh tannins, and the burning sensation of alcohol when the wine interacts with spices.
  • Fish (cod, zander, salmon): For white fish with a delicate flavor and lower fat content, a light white wine with good acidity is suitable; for fattier fish, a slightly richer wine works well—even sparkling wine is an option. In any case, it is best to avoid full-bodied, oak-aged Chardonnays.
  • Chicken: Here, too, a medium-bodied white wine works well—one with enough richness to complement the chicken’s texture, which is denser than that of fish.
• Sauce:
  • Sour cream: Its mild, milky flavor with a hint of tanginess calls for a fruity, low-astringency wine with comparable acidity. You might choose a wine with lower astringency than you would if serving it without the sour cream (see my article on wine and cheese pairing for an explanation of how milk proteins interact with wine).
  • Spicy tomato sauce: When serving with meat-filled dumplings, you might choose a red wine with high acidity and low astringency; this harmonizes with the acidity of the tomatoes without accentuating astringency or the alcohol’s burning sensation.
  • Vinegar: In my opinion, it is best to avoid this ingredient if you plan to serve wine with the dumplings. A strong vinegar taste will overpower any wine.

Key principle: Consider all the components of this dish—which may seem simple at first glance but is actually complex—to ensure that no single ingredient overpowers the flavor of the wine.

Pelmeni Recipes and Wine Pairings

Next, we will examine pairings for the most famous pelmeni recipes, looking at the flavor characteristics of the dishes and explaining why specific wines create the most harmonious combinations.
We will not focus on the dough recipe—as it is generally quite neutral in flavor—but will instead look more closely at the fillings and sauces.

1. Classic Siberian Pelmeni with Beef and Pork

This recipe uses equal parts beef and pork for the filling, along with onion, salt, and black pepper; the two types of meat are the defining flavor components. Classic Siberian pelmeni can be served with sour cream, butter, or—for those who prefer it—a slightly spicy tomato sauce.

Wines: Beaujolais-Villages Rouge, Bordeaux Rouge, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Primitivo Puglia IGT

These pairings work harmoniously thanks to the rounded flavor profiles of the grape varieties involved (Gamay for Beaujolais; predominantly Merlot for Bordeaux; Pinot Noir for Burgundy; and Primitivo for the Apulian appellation of the same name). They possess a pronounced fruity character (red berries, cherry), juiciness, soft tannins, and sufficient acidity, yet they lack a pronounced oak or barrel influence. Such wines will not feel heavy, astringent, or harsh when paired with meat; they offer refreshing acidity and harmonize well with sour cream.

2. Pelmeni with lamb, onion, and cumin

Lamb calls for a more expressive wine, especially when the filling contains spices like cumin and coriander. The other ingredients are classic: onion, salt, and black pepper. These pelmeni can be served with a light, refreshing sour cream and herb sauce to ensure the overall flavor profile remains balanced rather than overly intense.

Wines: Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, Gigondas Rouge, Languedoc Rouge, Georgian Saperavi wines

The first wine is primarily Syrah; the second is a Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend; the third can be either a similar blend or a single-varietal wine; and the fourth is typically pure Saperavi, produced using either modern or traditional (qvevri) methods. The first three wines pair well with the lamb and spices in the filling, thanks to the spicy notes characteristic of Syrah, the juiciness of Grenache, and the expressiveness and body of Mourvèdre, which imparts meaty or smoky undertones. The fourth wine (Georgian Saperavi) offers a classic, successful pairing due to its notes of dark berries, pepper, and spices.

3. Pelmeni with lamb and spicy tomato sauce

This recipe is similar to the previous example, but the wine pairing changes due to the spicy sauce. The filling consists of lamb, onion, black pepper, and coriander, while the sauce features tomatoes, garlic, hot pepper, and sometimes adjika.

Wines: Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rouge, Vacqueyras or Gigondas, Bandol Rouge, Australian Shiraz-Grenache-Mourvèdre
Pairing wine with the combination of bold lamb flavors and spicy sauce is challenging. A blend of fruity, rounded Grenache and slightly peppery Syrah works well: it softens the heat of the tomato sauce while adding peppery and spicy notes, and the earthy character of Mourvèdre harmonizes with the expressive lamb. However, opt for either aged wines from these appellations or fruit-forward cuvées; the density and astringency of young, traditionally styled wines in this category would clash with the spicy sauce.

4. Pork and Caramelized Onion Pelmeni

The flavor profile here is completely different: fatty pork paired with the sweetness of onion (a classic combination, much like foie gras with jam or cheese with jam). The wine needs to be fresh and high in acidity, yet possess sufficient structure. The recipe calls for pork, onions sautéed in butter, salt, and black pepper.

Wines: Pinot Gris (Alsace), Gewurztraminer (Collio), Côtes de Roussillon (Grenache Blanc)

In this instance, a white wine is preferable to a red, as red wines often clash with the sweetness found in dishes (in this case, the caramelized onions). However, the white wine shouldn’t be too light or overly acidic—like a Sauvignon Blanc from Entre-Deux-Mers or a dry German Riesling from the Mosel. In contrast, a Pinot Gris from Alsace or Northern Italy (Trentino-Alto Adige or Friuli) offers a full-bodied texture substantial enough for pork, while retaining acidity and even a hint of sweetness derived from fruit flavors rather than residual sugar. The spicy notes in these wines pair beautifully with caramelized onions. A dry Gewürztraminer from the Collio region in northeastern Italy also features a rounded texture and expressive spicy notes with tropical fruit characteristics (lychee, rose, and dried ginger are hallmarks of this variety), making it an excellent match for the sweetish onions. A modern-style White Grenache from Roussillon in southern France is a fairly full-bodied dry white wine; its good acidity balances flavors of sweet fruit (peach, apricot, and sometimes tropical notes), making it another suitable pairing for this dumpling recipe.

5. Chicken and Wild Mushroom Pelmeni

The recipe calls for white chicken meat and wild mushrooms (such as chanterelles or porcini, though button mushrooms can also be used) sautéed in butter with onions, seasoned with white pepper, thyme, and salt. A cream-based sauce or sour cream makes the most harmonious accompaniment.

Wines: Bourgogne Chardonnay, Beaujolais Blanc, California Chardonnay

The characteristic flavor profile of Chardonnay wines—featuring subtle stone fruit notes (peach, apricot, sometimes yellow plum) balanced by citrus acidity and complemented by creamy or even vanilla undertones (when barrel-aged)—pairs well with chicken, the umami qualities of mushrooms, and the creamy notes found in sauces and sour cream. There are countless examples of such wines, as Chardonnay is a highly versatile grape variety grown worldwide in diverse climates:

• Burgundy: Bourgogne Blanc, Monthélie, Meursault
• California: Carneros, Sonoma, Napa
• Languedoc: Limoux…

The selection of Chardonnay wines is vast, but for a dish like dumplings with chicken, mushrooms, and a cream sauce or sour cream, the best choice is a wine with moderate body, good acidity, and brief oak aging with malolactic fermentation—qualities that impart subtle creamy and nutty notes.

6. Pelmeni with potato and porcini mushrooms

In this version of the recipe, chicken is replaced by potato; the dumplings can be served with sour cream or butter, or you can even experiment with a cheese sauce or grated cheese.

Wines: Sancerre Blanc, Mâcon Blanc, Graves Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc—the grape variety behind Sancerre (Loire Valley) and Graves (Bordeaux)—is characterized by minerality, acidity, and freshness. These qualities create a pleasing contrast with the starchy texture of the potato and the earthy character of the mushrooms, while the wines still possess enough richness and body to harmonize with cheese or sour cream. Mâcon Blanc from Burgundy—a Chardonnay-based wine that is moderately full-bodied, fruity, food-friendly, and highly versatile—is an excellent option for Chardonnay lovers.

7. Fish Pelmeni with zander (pike-perch)

The filling ingredients include:

• zander fillet
• onion
• butter
• dill
• white pepper
• salt

These Pelmeni can also be served with sour cream or butter and sprinkled with dill. 🍷 Wines: Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie, Bordeaux Blanc, Sancerre Blanc
Pairing with these wines—made from Melon de Bourgogne, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, and Sauvignon Blanc, respectively—relies on freshness. Their high acidity highlights the fish and cleanses the palate after the butter, while also adding a complementary creamy note.

8. Salmon, Dill, and Cream Cheese Pelmeni

This pelmeni recipe is modern rather than traditional, yet it deserves attention for its culinary appeal. The filling consists of chopped salmon mixed with cream cheese, herbs (dill, green onions), lemon zest, salt, and white pepper.
Unlike zander, salmon is a fattier fish; therefore, wine acidity is crucial here to create a fresh, harmonious pairing.

Wines: Champagne Brut, Chablis Premier Cru, Pouilly-Fumé, Crémant de Bourgogne

Sparkling wines with a dosage of Brut or lower (Champagne, Crémant, Prosecco) make for an especially successful pairing. Their acidity and bubbles balance the richness of the salmon, while the bready, creamy nuances of aged sparkling wine complement the dough and cream cheese.
If you prefer still wines, choose those that have seen little to no oak aging, as the process imparts oak tannins that clash with fatty fish. Good choices include Chablis Premier Cru, Pouilly-Fumé, and Muscadet.

Why isn’t red wine always the best choice?

Of course, red wine pairs wonderfully with spiced lamb fillings or traditional Siberian pelmeni (dumplings). However, if the filling features white meat (chicken, pork)—or especially fish or mushrooms served with a creamy sauce or butter—a bold, tannic red wine can taste harsh and bitter. It won’t do the dish any favors either; this clash is particularly noticeable with:

• chicken;
• fish;
• sour cream;
• cream sauces;
• mushrooms.

Red wine lovers should opt for lighter varieties like Pinot Noir or Gamay rather than bold ones like Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah.
For fish, mushroom, or cream-sauce Pelmeni, white wine is often a better choice than red.

Best wine pairings for pelmeni

If you were to select just five pelmeni and sauce combinations for a wine tasting, you could create the following menu:

• Siberian pelmeni + sour cream or tomato sauce: Beaujolais-Villages. A versatile pairing.
• Mushroom and chicken pelmeni + sour cream: Bourgogne Chardonnay. A perfect example of pairing the earthy aromas of mushrooms with the freshness and texture of Chardonnay.
• Lamb pelmeni + sour cream or tomato sauce: Crozes-Hermitage. The spiciness of Syrah and the flavor of the lamb create a natural pairing.
• Fish pelmeni + sour cream or butter: Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine.

Freshness, minerality, and a light creamy nuance

Conclusion

Pelmeni deserve to be viewed not merely as a simple home-cooked dish, but also as an interesting subject for wine pairings.
Fruity Gamay, mineral-driven Muscadet or Sancerre, a slightly creamy Chardonnay from Burgundy, or Champagne—the choice of wine is determined primarily by the filling, fat content, spices, and sauce.
That is precisely why there is no such thing as a universal “wine for pelmeni.” However, there are many interesting pairings—and each one reveals a different facet of the dish.

The popular Spritz cocktail is most often associated with the orange aperitif Aperol. However, it is far from the only liqueur used in this quintessential summer drink. In fact, Aperol even has a rival vying for the title of the “canonical” Spritz.
That rival is Select bitter aperitivo, which is drier and spicier than Aperol. Both liqueurs originated in the same region—Veneto—at roughly the same time, so it is only natural that they compete for the title of the “authentic” choice for a Spritz.

Select was born in Venice in 1920

In 1920, brothers Mario and Vittorio Pilla created a new bittersweet aperitif named Select (from the Latin «selectus», meaning “choice” or “selected”). They founded their company, Fratelli Pilla & C., in Venice’s historic Castello district. Unlike many modern cocktail brands, Select was conceived from the very beginning for the evening «aperitivo» ritual—a drink meant to be enjoyed before a meal and while socializing.

Venice and «aperitivo» culture

In the first half of the 20th century, the aperitivo became an essential part of Venetian city culture. After the workday, locals would meet in bars to unwind and discuss the day’s events over a glass of wine or an aperitif before dinner. Select fit perfectly into this drinking culture thanks to its distinctive bitterness, which stimulated the appetite, and its relatively low alcohol content, making it suitable as an «aperitivo» rather than a potent digestif. Thus, Select gradually became a Venetian tradition.

Select’s Ingredients and Recipe: Juniper and Rhubarb

Select is made from 30 ingredients, the key ones being rhubarb root and juniper berries. These define the drink’s character, which the manufacturer describes as “floral, herbal, citrusy, balsamic, and spicy.” Rhubarb root provides Select’s characteristic bitterness and earthy undertones (as well as, most likely, its vibrant ruby-red color with a pinkish hue), while juniper contributes resinous, balsamic, and spicy nuances. The ingredients undergo separate maceration and distillation processes before being blended in precise proportions to create Select’s distinctive taste.
As a result, Select’s flavor differs noticeably from the mild, citrus-forward Aperol:

• pronounced yet balanced bitterness, offset by sweetness;
• herbal and spicy notes;
• subtle balsamic undertones;
• a light citrus character that refreshes Select’s profile without adding bold orange notes;

Why is a Select Spritz served with an olive?

The classic modern recipe is identical to that of the Aperol Spritz:

3 parts Prosecco + 2 parts Select + 1 part soda water

The cocktail is also served over ice, but instead of an orange slice, it is garnished with a green olive. Visually, this highlights the cocktail’s Venetian identity, while adding savory, salty, and umami notes that pair beautifully with the bitterness and complexity of Select.

Select and the history of the Venetian Spritz

It is worth noting that the Spritz drink predates Select. Its origins lie in the period of Austrian rule in the Veneto region; Austrian soldiers, finding local Italian wines not to their liking, would dilute them with water (read more about the history of the Spritz in the article on Aperol). In the 20th century, the Spritz evolved into a cocktail made with various bitter aperitifs, Prosecco, and soda water.
In Venice—and the Veneto region more broadly—Select became the key ingredient for the Spritz, and the drink itself came to be known as the Venetian Spritz.

Aperol or Select? Which Spritz is the “real” one?

The global popularity and widespread fame of the Aperol Spritz might give the impression that Aperol is the historical “original” Spritz. That is not quite the case. Although both drinks were created just a year apart in cities within the Veneto region (Aperol debuted in Padua in 1919, while Select appeared in Venice in 1920), the two brands subsequently followed different paths.
Aperol developed a style that is more citrusy, sweet, and light—one that aligns with modern international aperitivo culture and appeals to the tastes of the majority of consumers.
Select, by contrast, has maintained a closer connection to Venice and local tradition.
That is precisely why, for many Venetians, the Select Spritz remains not merely an alternative to the Aperol Spritz, but an expression of its own unique traditions.

The History of Select’s Industrial Production

As the company expanded, Select’s production became linked to the Porto Marghera industrial zone in Venice—an area that suffered significant damage during World War II. Production was subsequently relocated to the island of Murano, famous for its glassmaking, and the company continued to grow beyond Venice itself. Yet, the brand never lost its connection to the city of its birth.
In 2020, Select celebrated its centenary, an occasion that served to reaffirm its bond with Venice. In 2023, Ca’ Select opened in Venice—a space dedicated to the brand’s history, production, and the culture of the Venetian Spritz. After decades of development outside the historic center, Select had returned to its hometown.

Select, Aperol, and Campari: Three Distinct Personalities

While all three drinks belong to the category of Italian bitter aperitifs, their flavor profiles differ significantly. Select:

• Origin: Venice
• Character: Spicy, herbaceous, medium-sweet
• Bitterness: Medium/pronounced
• Color: Ruby red
• Classic Spritz: Select Spritz (Venetian Spritz)
• Garnish: Olive

Aperol:

• Origin: Padua
• Character: Mellow, citrusy, sweeter
• Bitterness: Moderate
• Color: Bright red-orange
• Classic Spritz: Aperol Spritz
• Garnish: Orange

Campari:

• Origin: Novara and Milan
• Character: Intense, bitter, less perceptible sweetness
• Bitterness: High
• Color: Bright red
• Classic Spritz: Campari Spritz
• Garnish: Orange

Select occupies a middle ground: more bitter than Aperol but smoother than Campari, giving it remarkable versatility and natural appeal—both as an *aperitivo* and as a cocktail ingredient.

Select Spritz: Recipe and Pairings

As with other liqueurs, the formula for the Select Spritz remains constant:

• 90 ml Prosecco
• 60 ml Select
• 30 ml soda water
• Ice
• Green olive

The ingredients are combined in a large wine glass or a dedicated Spritz glass filled with plenty of ice. The drink is traditionally garnished with a green olive—a choice made for both aesthetic and flavor reasons.

Thanks to its distinct bitterness and spicy notes, the Select Spritz pairs beautifully with salty and savory snacks.
Particularly excellent pairings include:

• cicchetti — traditional Venetian snacks;
• olives;
• anchovies;
• breaded seafood;
• prosciutto and other cured meats with a strong umami flavor;
• medium-aged cheeses;
• bruschetta;
• pickled vegetables.

This is where the culinary character of Select truly shines: it is not merely a refreshing cocktail, but a complete *aperitivo* experience.

Select — The Taste of Venice

Select is not just another Italian red liqueur.
It represents a local Venetian *aperitivo* tradition that has seamlessly integrated into modern cocktail culture while preserving its heritage and connection to its home city of Venice.
Prosecco, Select, soda, and a green olive—four elements that encapsulate the entire history of the Venetian aperitivo and offer a fresh take on the famous Italian cocktail: less sweet, yet more bitter, spicy, and food-friendly.

Today, August 6, 2026, the Bordeaux region has once again broken the record for the earliest harvest start date. Harvesting is about to begin for grapes destined for dry white wines, while those intended for sparkling wines—Crémant de Bordeaux—have already been sent to the wineries. According to the French wine industry publication vitisphere.com, winemakers belonging to the “Bordeaux Families” association have even started harvesting the red Merlot variety intended for Crémant, as it has reached a potential alcohol level of 9%. In Champagne, where the harvest start date is determined by the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne, the date was moved up from August 15 to August 12; in some areas, winemakers received special permission to harvest Chardonnay, which rapidly accumulated sugar levels equivalent to 11% potential alcohol over just a few days.
The exceptionally hot and dry conditions of 2026 have brought the harvest start dates in Bordeaux and Champagne forward; however, it is worth recalling how and when this process unfolds under normal conditions.
Producers of dry white wines and sparkling wines (Crémant) are usually the first to begin harvesting. Varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle, and occasionally Sauvignon Gris are used to produce both the region’s fresh dry wines and its famous sweet wines. However, around mid-August, the very first grapes to be picked are those destined for Crémant and dry white wines.
There are two methods for determining the start of the harvest: the traditional, empirical approach—counting days from the onset of flowering or the start of color change (véraison)—and the modern, scientific approach, which relies on chemical analysis and tasting the grapes directly on the vine. Grapes are harvested only after the berries have achieved an optimal balance of sugars, acidity, and aromatic compounds. Preserving natural freshness and vibrant acidity is particularly crucial for dry white wines, so the timing of the harvest is calculated with great precision. Before harvesting begins, winemakers conduct regular analyses of the berries—often daily or even multiple times a day—measuring sugar content and acidity levels, tasting the grapes right on the vine, and closely monitoring the weather forecast. Sometimes the decision to start harvesting is made on just a few hours’ notice, as sustained high temperatures can cause grapes—especially white varieties—to lose acidity very rapidly. Furthermore, the harvest must take place during dry weather to prevent the spread of fungus to the nearly ripe fruit.
It is during these days that the future style of the white wine is determined: its freshness, minerality, aromatic profile, and aging potential. The quality of the vintage begins not in the winery but in the vineyard—with the choice of the right moment to harvest.

The French Ministry of Agriculture typically publishes first official estimation of the upcoming grape harvest in early August—usually around the 7th. By this time, as the grapes have usually entered the ripening stage, it becomes clear what harvest volume to expect and how much wine the current vintage will yield. However, 2026 has been marked by atypical, even extreme conditions: prolonged heat (with temperatures occasionally exceeding 40°C) and a persistent lack of rainfall. These factors affect not only volume but also grape ripening; consequently, the Ministry has postponed preliminary harvest estimation by a full month, until early September.

Why Harvest Estimation Were Postponed

The summer of 2026 proved to be one of the hottest and driest in decades, featuring record-breaking temperatures and rainfall levels 70% below average.
Nevertheless, the start of the viticultural season seemed quite favorable: winter rains had replenished the groundwater reserves that nourish the vines in the months that followed, severe frosts spared the vineyards, and flowering took place under good conditions.
Yet, despite this positive start—which ensured successful flowering and fruit set, laying the groundwork for a potentially excellent vintage—winemakers could not yet breathe easy.
The subsequent hot summer—characterized by above-average temperatures, heatwaves, and a lack of sufficient rainfall—changed the situation. Water stress across many French regions and the rapid depletion of groundwater reserves forced the vines to focus on survival rather than increasing volume or ripening their berries. As a result, the grape clusters and berries are gaining volume more slowly, because the vine uses available water to sustain its own vital functions, while ripening slows down or halts entirely. Furthermore, weather conditions can fluctuate throughout August and September. For this reason, initial forecasts regarding the 2026 vintage may prove inaccurate, prompting industry experts to postpone them until a date closer to the potential start of the harvest.

The main uncertainty: August weather

It is precisely the uncertainty surrounding the weather during the finalmonth before the harvest that has led specialists to delay their forecasts.
The coming weeks are critical, as weather conditions during this time determine not only the yield volume but also the grapes’ technical and phenolic maturity. If conditions normalize across most regions—with increased rainfall and sufficiently cool night temperatures—the vines will be able to partially recover from water stress, retain acidity in the berries, and continue ripening at a relatively steady pace.
Conversely, another spell of heat and drought would cause the potential yield to shrink further and slow down the ripening process again. Moreover, such a scenario would threaten the survival of young vines planted in well-drained soils, as moisture levels would fall below the threshold required for their own survival.
It is worth noting that recent weather instability can bring not only drought but also torrential rains—sometimes occurring right before the harvest. This presents a different set of problems: the berries swell with water, yet the vines lack the time to develop sufficient aromatic compounds or bring the increased berry volume to the desired level of maturity. Consequently, the resulting wines may taste “diluted” or “under-ripe.”
All these potential developments over the coming weeks could impact yield volume, quality, and the timing of the harvest, making it significantly difficult to provide first assessments of the 2026 vintage during the usual timeframe.

What can be said about the quality of the 2026 vintage?

A reduced yield does not necessarily mean lower quality for the resulting wines. In fact, hot, dry weather can have a beneficial effect:

• The spread of fungal diseases slows down or even stops completely.
• With proper viticultural techniques, the berries become concentrated and develop mature tannins.

However, if the heat persists for too long, certain risks arise:

• Berry size decreases;
• Juice volume drops (and sometimes berries simply shrivel on the vine);
• Grape acidity may drop rapidly, especially in white varieties;
• The organoleptic profile of the grapes changes—aromatic notes may shift from fresh fruit to dried fruit or jam-like characteristics;
• Sugar accumulation accelerates, affecting the balance of the future wine.

That is why, as harvest approaches, winemakers closely monitor temperature trends, rainfall levels, and precipitation forecasts.

Harvesting remains early

A characteristic feature not only of the 2026 season but of recent years in general is the early start of the harvest. In the wine regions of southern France, picking has already begun (in some cases, as early as July)—several weeks ahead of the average.
Recurring heatwaves have altered grape ripening dynamics; consequently, to preserve the berries’ freshness and acidity—and the desired style of the future wine—many winemakers are deciding to harvest significantly earlier.

The Outlook for 2026 in Bordeaux

In Bordeaux, winemakers poised to begin the harvest at any moment are closely monitoring weather forecasts and unfolding conditions.
The region’s white varieties—Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle, and Sauvignon Gris—are very sensitive to high temperatures, which affect acidity retention. Acidity is a crucial component of white wines, determining their quality, freshness, and aging potential. Winemakers therefore strive to pinpoint the optimal moment to start harvesting white varieties, aiming to strike the best balance between aromatic ripeness and the berries’ natural acidity.
For red varieties, in addition to acidity, full phenolic ripeness of the skins and seeds—which dictate tannin quality—is essential. While their ripening cycle is longer and they are less susceptible to high temperatures, winemakers will monitor their development just as closely as September approaches.

Conclusion: 2026 Promises to Be a Highly Unusual Vintage

The 2026 vintage reinforces a trend seen in recent years: the climate is becoming increasingly unpredictable and stands as the primary source of uncertainty in French winemaking.
In the past, under more consistent climatic conditions, an initial crop assessment in early August was considered quite reliable. One could even apply a rule of thumb: the harvest would likely begin roughly 40 to 50 days after the onset of ripening—known as *véraison*, when the berries begin to change color from unripe green. Today, the climate is more unpredictable and weather forecasts are less accurate; consequently, experts prefer to defer preliminary assessments that could lead to erroneous projections of supply and demand in the wine market. It is more prudent to wait until the end of August—a critical and decisive month—to make more accurate estimates regarding the quantity and quality of the grape harvest.

Continuing my series on the iconic summer cocktail, the Spritz, I simply must mention the liqueur Campari. Let’s start with a few intriguing facts:

• Campari predates Aperol
• The Aperol brand and production rights are owned by the Campari Group.
• Campari is more closely linked to mixology and cocktails than Aperol, as it is a key ingredient in other classics: the Negroni, Americano, Boulevardier, and, of course, the Campari Spritz.

Why is Aperol considered one of today’s most popular aperitifs? How does it differ from Campari—a drink that can rightfully be called a legendary Italian bitter? My new article covers its history, its rise to popularity, and a few details about its composition—a recipe that has, naturally, remained a closely guarded secret for over 160 years.

The Creation of Campari

Campari was created in 1860 by the talented Italian liqueur maker Gaspare Campari. After years of experimenting with infusions of herbs, fruits, and spices—and drawing inspiration from Dutch bitters—he crafted a drink with a unique balance of bitterness, sweetness, and citrus notes.
Campari was originally produced in the city of Novara (Piedmont), where Gaspare Campari worked on creating liqueurs alongside pastry chef Teofilo Barla and fellow liqueur maker Giacomo Bass. It was in Novara—specifically at the local “Caffè dell’Amicizia”—that the new drink could first be tasted. Later, Gaspare moved to Milan, where, in 1867, he opened the famous “Caffè Campari” in the newly built Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, right next to the Duomo. It was here that the new bitter quickly became a favorite among the people of Milan, including renowned artists and creative figures.
Today, Campari is used to prepare many classic cocktails—such as the Americano, Negroni, Milano-Torino, Garibaldi, Boulevardier, and Spritz—and is distributed in over 190 countries.

A Secret Recipe

As with Aperol, the recipe for Campari is a closely guarded secret. The exact number of ingredients is not disclosed, though some sources suggest there are around 60, including:

• bitter oranges;
• aromatic herbs;
• roots;
• spices;
• tree bark;
• citrus fruits.

It is this complex blend that gives Campari its distinctive flavor profile: intense bitterness, citrus notes, hints of spicy herbs, and a long, dry finish.

Why Campari Has its Specific Red Colour?

Its vibrant red color has become one of the brand’s hallmarks. Originally, the natural dye carmine was used to achieve this hue, but in 2006, the manufacturer switched entirely to modern food colorings while preserving the drink’s signature color.

How Campari Became an International Brand

After Gaspare Campari’s death, his son Davide Campari took charge of the company’s development, promotion, and advertising. It was Davide who transformed the family business into an international brand. He closely observed the visitors of his establishments, as well as the evolving sociocultural landscape and trends of the era, to craft the most effective advertising campaigns.
The first advertisement for Campari—a short article—appeared in the “Corriere della Sera” newspaper on January 7, 1889. Next came advertising posters, and with the advent of television advertising, commercials aired during the “Il Carosello” program, which ran for 20 years (from 1957 to 1977). Campari collaborated with renowned artists, designers, and photographers, transforming the brand from a mere beverage into an integral part of 20th-century Italian artistic culture.
In the early 20th century, new production facilities opened, and Campari bottles began to be exported—first to other parts of Europe and eventually across the globe.

Campari and the Birth of Famous Cocktails

Campari’s complex flavor profile and distinct bitterness made it an ideal base for cocktails. The most famous among them include:

• The Americano: made with Campari, sweet red vermouth, and soda water.
• The Negroni: a classic featuring Campari, red vermouth, and gin.
• The Boulevardier: a French twist on the Negroni that substitutes bourbon for gin.
• And, of course, the Campari Spritz: prepared using the classic formula of 3 parts Prosecco, 2 parts Campari, and 1 part soda water. Compared to the Aperol Spritz—the rising popularity of which inspired this Campari-based variation—this cocktail is stronger, more bitter, and richer in flavor.

Campari Today

Today, Campari is sold in over 190 countries and stands as one of the most recognizable Italian spirits brands. It is part of the Campari Group portfolio, which encompasses dozens of famous brands, including the renowned Aperol.
Despite its global success, Campari has retained its distinctive identity: a complex, recognizable character with a pronounced bitterness that is unmistakable among other bitters.

Interesting Facts

• Campari was created in 1860, nearly 60 years before Aperol.
• The drink’s recipe is even more complex than Aperol’s and has remained a trade secret since Campari’s inception.
• Until 2006, natural carmine was used for coloring.
• Campari is a key ingredient in classic cocktails such as the Negroni, Americano, and Boulevardier.
• Milan is considered the historic home of Campari and a major hub of the Italian “aperitivo” culture.

Conclusion

Campari can rightfully be considered a symbol of Italian culinary culture. Its intense bitterness and complex sensory profile have made it a staple of classic aperitifs and an inspiration for generations of bartenders worldwide.
While Aperol is chosen for its lightness and citrusy freshness, Campari is prized for its depth of flavor, refined bitterness, and richness.

Aperol is more than just a liqueur

Bright orange Aperol is not merely an Italian liqueur. Today, it has become virtually synonymous with the Spritz cocktail, summer, and the Italian “aperitivo” tradition.
However, the story of Aperol began long before millions of people started ordering Spritz cocktail in bars around the world.

The Origins of Aperol

Aperol hails from the city of Padua (Padova) in the Veneto region of northern Italy.
In the early 20th century, brothers Luigi and Silvio Barbieri—working at the distillery owned by their father, Giuseppe Barbieri—set themselves a goal: to create a modern aperitif that was lighter than most Italian bitters available at the time and more pleasant to drink on warm summer evenings.
In 1912, they began experimenting with ingredients and production methods; seven years later, in 1919, a new—and indeed innovative—drink was born: Aperol.
Its very name, derived from the French word “aperitif” (the Barbieri brothers may well have been inspired by their travels in France), highlighted the drink’s lightness and its purpose: to stimulate the appetite before a meal, rather than concluding it as other strong, bitter liqueurs did.

What Made Aperol Special from the Start

Aperol stood out from most Italian bitters of the early 20th century due to the following characteristics:

• an alcohol content of just 11%, making it suitable for a daytime aperitif;
• a vibrant orange color;
• a distinct citrus aroma;
• a gentle bitterness;
• high drinkability.

After World War I, Aperol rapidly gained popularity—first in Padua, then throughout the Veneto region—and by the 1920s and 1930s, it could be found almost in every bar in Northern Italy.

What Aperol is made of

Its exact composition has been kept secret for over a century and still is.
All that is known is that it contains more than 30 ingredients, including:

• sweet and bitter oranges;
• rhubarb;
• gentian;
• various aromatic herbs;
• botanicals and spices.

It was the harmonious blend of citrus sweetness and delicate herbal bitterness that made Aperol a pleasant, smooth drink that quickly became popular.

The history of the Spritz predates Aperol

The Aperol Spritz is not a standalone cocktail that originated in the 20th century, as many believe.
Originally, the concept of the “Spritz” had no connection to Prosecco, Aperol, or any other liqueur used in modern Spritz cocktails.
After Napoleon’s army retreated in the early 19th century, the Italian region of Veneto fell under the control and influence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Austrian soldiers and officials stationed in Veneto didn’t appreciate local wines, considering them too full-bodied and strong. Consequently, they diluted the local Italian wines with a splash of water, calling the resulting drink “ein Spritzer”—derived from the German verb “spritzen”, meaning “to splash” or “to spray.”
Thus, the Spritz—wine diluted with water—was born. Later, still water was replaced by soda water, and eventually, sparkling wines—primarily Prosecco—came into use.
It was then that the Spritz gradually evolved into a cocktail—or rather, an entire family of cocktails.

When the Aperol Spritz Appeared

Aperol itself had already existed as a standalone product for decades before becoming the base of the famous cocktail.
The classic Aperol Spritz recipe emerged only in the 1950s, combining three ingredients:

• Aperol, which replaced wine—a role it was perfectly suited for thanks to its low alcohol content;
• Prosecco;
• Soda water.

The brand launched its first large-scale advertising campaigns in the 1950s and 60s, including the “Il Carosello” TV commercials featuring famous Italian actors. It was this recipe that made Aperol world-famous, particularly following international advertising campaigns in the 1980s.

Why the Aperol Spritz Became a Global Phenomenon

Aperol quickly gained popularity in Italy, but it began to achieve international renown after 2003, when the brand became part of the Campari Group.
The company launched a massive international promotion effort:

• developing “aperitivo” culture;
• global advertising campaigns;
• partnerships with restaurants and bars;
• promoting the Italian lifestyle.

In 2006, Aperol and “aperitivo” culture arrived on the US market, and the Aperol Spritz transformed from a regional cocktail from the Veneto area into one of the world’s most famous aperitifs.

The Classic Aperol Spritz Recipe

The official formula is extremely simple and is known as the “3–2–1 rule”:

• 3 parts Prosecco DOC
• 2 parts Aperol
• 1 part soda water

The cocktail is prepared directly in a large wine glass filled with ice. It is garnished with an orange slice. This ratio results in a light drink, refreshing and well-balanced.

What to pair with an Aperol Spritz

The Aperol Spritz is, first and foremost, an aperitif. Best food pairings:

• green olives;
• prosciutto (and other cold cuts: jamón, coppa, cured meats, etc.);
• bruschetta with various toppings (tomatoes, pesto, fresh basil, stracciatella);
• seafood;
• fried shrimp;
• calamari;
• burrata;
• mozzarella;
• salted peanuts;
• potato chips;
• light Venetian-style snacks (“cicchetti”).

Aperol’s moderate bitterness stimulates the appetite, making the cocktail an ideal start to a meal.

Interesting facts about Aperol

• It took seven years to develop Aperol.
• The recipe, consisting of over 30 ingredients, has been kept secret since its creation.
• Aperol has an alcohol content of just 11%, significantly lower than most classic bitters.
• The Aperol Spritz emerged several decades after the liqueur itself was created.
• The Aperol Spritz cocktail gained worldwide popularity thanks to the Campari Group’s global marketing strategy following its acquisition of the brand in 2003.

Conclusion

The story of Aperol is quite unique and significant for the entire alcoholic beverage industry. Created in Padua in 1919 by the Barbieri brothers, this liqueur not only revolutionized the concept of traditional bitters but also spawned an entire category of cocktails and became a global ambassador for “aperitivo” culture.
Today, the sparkling orange-red Aperol Spritz has become a symbol of vacations, summer, and warm evenings spent on café terraces.

When the question arises of what appetizer to serve with red wine, the answer “cheese” seems correct and indisputable. But how well does this hold up in reality?
In fact, the situation is a bit more complex.
The traditional pairing of red wine and cheese dates back for centuries, but it did not originate from gastronomic considerations. According to one theory, shepherds and peasants would take simple foods—such as bread, cheese, and dried meat—and diluted red wine with them to the fields for lunch; the wine was safer to drink than plain water from natural sources. Because the wine was diluted, it had lower tannin levels and a milder flavor, avoiding any unpleasant interactions with the food (and, of course, no one was thinking about wine and food pairing back then).
Modern red wines are completely different. Firstly, nobody would think of diluting them with water today. Secondly, thanks to advancements in viticulture and winemaking flavor profiles and concentration of the wine became more complex and full-bodied.
So, why doesn’t red wine pair as well with cheese as tradition suggests? Here is the scientific explanation.

The Wrong Proteins

A previous article on pairing red wine with red meat explains why the combination works from a chemical standpoint: the harmonious interaction between tannins of red wine and proteins of meat. However, cheese also contains protein, so why does red wine often leave an unpleasant aftertaste when consumed with a piece of cheese?
Tannins readily bind to proteins. They can form hydrogen bonds and engage in hydrophobic interactions—molecular connections that avoid contact with water.
Casein, the milk protein found in cheese, is highly sensitive to tannins; consequently, it can interact with them in several ways and rapidly form larger molecular complexes. This negatively affects the flavor of both products:

• The wine’s astringency intensifies, sometimes even creating a sensation of dryness.
• A metallic or bitter aftertaste emerges, overpowering pleasant fruity notes.
• The cheese’s texture becomes gummy and pasty, or conversely, chalky/powdery.

Furthermore, cheese is often significantly fattier than meat, which creates a flavor imbalance; the cheese fats tend to “coat” the tannins, disrupting the wine’s balance. In contrast, the fat content in meat does not interfere with the harmonious interaction between tannins and proteins.

The worst red wine and cheese pairings:

• Soft cheeses with bloomy rinds (Brie, Camembert, Chaource, triple-crème): In addition to casein and high fat content—especially in triple-crème varieties—the lactic bacteria on the rind interact unfavorably with red wine.
• Soft cheeses with washed rinds (Munster, Pont-l’Évêque, Époisses, or cheeses washed in alcohol like liqueurs or Calvados): Here, the cheese’s own, often very pronounced, flavor and the distinctive notes of the washed rind accentuate unpleasant notes.
• Fresh cheeses with neutral flavors (Mozzarella, Burrata, Ricotta): These cheeses have a relatively neutral taste and lower fat content than soft cheeses, making it more likely that the wine will overpower the cheese’s flavor.
• Goat cheeses, particularly those with firm rinds (e.g., Crottin) or those with creamy textures and high fat content (e.g., Saint-Félicien or Saint-Marcellin). The effect will be similar to that of a soft-ripened cheese with a bloomy rind, but intensified by the distinctive flavor of goat cheese.

Pairing with a rather salty blue cheese is also far from ideal: while salt generally has a positive effect on wine (read more about flavor interactions here), the high salt content and flavor intensity of blue cheese will overpower the wine’s fruity bouquet.

If you prefer to stick to tradition

If you prefer red wine over white, or simply wish to follow tradition, here are a few tips for achieving the best red wine and cheese pairings:
• Choose wines that are not astringent, or those with soft, velvety tannins.
• Opt for young, unoaked wines, as barrels also impart oak tannins to the wine.
• Avoid complex, aged red wines (10, 15+ years old), as their multifaceted, delicate flavors will be lost against the taste of the cheese. Simple, young wines with barely perceptible or very mild astringency will pair much more harmoniously.
• Choose hard cheeses—even aged ones—that have lower moisture content and a slightly higher salt concentration (though less than in blue cheeses).

Examples of wines:

• Beaujolais-Villages (Gamay) – a moderately tannic, full-flavored, fruity, and easy-drinking wine
• Village-level Burgundy (Pinot Noir) – delicate wines with a fresh fruit profile, good acidity, and low level of tannins
• Regional Bordeaux (Merlot or blends) – a lighter-style red wine from this famous region that does not require long aging and drinks well while young
• Tuscan IGT wines and Chianti Classico – not overly tannic, sufficiently fruity, and with good acidity
• Young Rioja – fruity, easy-drinking, and moderately tannic

Examples of cheeses and wine pairings:

• Manchego (Spain) – a hard sheep’s milk cheese, can be aged or not. A young Rioja wine makes for a harmonious, “terroir-driven” pairing.
• Ossau-Iraty (France) – a firm sheep’s milk cheese from the Basque Country, also can be aged. A red Bordeaux or an Irouléguy red (a protected designation for wines made in the Basque Country using Bordeaux grape varieties) would also be a suitable regional match.
• Cantal, Salers (France) – firm, pressed cow’s milk cheeses from the Auvergne region. I recommend a local Pinot Noir from the Auvergne appellation.
• Comté (France) – a pleasant cheese with nutty and fruity notes from the Jura region. Maturation can range from 6–9 to 36–40 months, so the choice of red wine should depend on the cheese’s age. Pair a light Bordeaux, Beaujolais, or a local Pinot Noir or Poulsard with young Comté, and opt for fuller-bodied wines for aged versions.
• Pecorino (Italy) – an Italian sheep’s milk cheese, young or aged. It pairs well with the wines mentioned above as well as with Chianti Classico.
• Parmesan (Italy) – one of the most iconic Italian cheeses; it pairs beautifully with Lambrusco, a red sparkling wine from the same region of origin: Emilia-Romagna.

You could also add Cheddar (of various ages), Beaufort, Gruyère, and Emmental to this list… There is a vast array of cheeses from different countries, which could be alternatives for those from this article (the most famous), along with countless pairing possibilities. All that remains is to experiment.

Without a doubt, Bordeaux is the most famous appellation in southwestern France and the Aquitaine region. However, there are other appellations within the region whose wines are produced from the same grape varieties as Bordeaux, are similar in style, but are less well-known, if not virtually unknown, outside the country.

One of these is the protected geographical indication (IGP) Agenais, covering just 84 hectares and located in the Lot-et-Garonne department. This appellation was officially created in 1982 (then called Vin du Pays Agenais), but in 2009 it received the status of protected geographical indication (IGP Agenais).

Where is it?

Southeast of Bordeaux, approximately halfway to Toulouse, it is crossed by the Garonne and Lot rivers. However, the grapes for the wines must be grown within the department.

A Little History

Vineyards in the Lot-et-Garonne department have existed since the 18th century, with vines being planted so rapidly that in 1747, the Bordeaux governor banned the establishment of new vineyards, which had begun to replace grain crops, fearing famine. However, in the late 19th century, the department’s vineyards did not escape the fate of other European regions and were devastated by phylloxera. Since the mid-20th century, the vineyards have been revived and received the general designation of Vin du Pays Agenais in 1982, and then the more specific IGP Agenais in 2009.

IGP Agenais Terroir

The climate is similar to the oceanic climate of Bordeaux, but with a more continental influence, as the Lot-et-Garonne department is located further from the Atlantic Ocean, meaning the temperature difference is more pronounced: summers are hotter and winters are colder. However, the Atlantic influence somewhat mitigates this difference and brings the necessary moisture. Because Lot-et-Garonne is closer to the Mediterranean, warm air masses reach here in the autumn, favorable for grape ripening. In other words, due to its location, the region is at the crossroads of Atlantic and Mediterranean influences.
The soils here are quite diverse and vary depending on the area. South and west of the Garonne, sand predominates, north of the river, the terrain is hilly with calcareous soils, and the plateau between Lot and Garonne is a mosaic of different soils.
In short: IGP Agenais is a mosaic of different microclimates, which explains the diversity of wine styles.

Grape Varieties and Wines

IGP Agenais produces primarily red wines (67%), followed by rosés (22%) and whites (11%), totaling 4,105 hectolitres per year. Since the IGP has less stringent criteria than the AOC regarding production volume, grape varieties, and production techniques, in addition to the most well-known Bordeaux grapes (red Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, and white Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle), it also allows red Gamay (a Beaujolais grape), Abouriu, Alicante Bouschet, and white Colombard, Chardonnay, and Ugni Blanc (to name a few).
The wines may be barrel-aged or not, purely fruity, spicy, acidic, or soft. It’s impossible to describe the style in a single phrase, as it largely depends on the taste and desires of the winemaker, who isn’t constrained by the strict rules of the AOC.

Tasting Côtes des Oliviers. Vin de Pays de l’Agenais 2017

Aroma: Soft, enveloping, and delicate, with expressive fruity notes of strawberry, fresh and baked red plum, ripe red cherry, and cherry jam. Oak aging reveals hints of smoke, toast, wood, cocoa, and coffee.
Taste: Equally fruity (strawberry, cherry, plum, and a hint of jam) with pronounced notes of dark chocolate, cocoa, coffee, and black pepper. Fine-grained, velvety tannins, pleasant acidity, and a fairly long finish with a hint of prune and pepper.
Overall Impression and Quality Rating: A very pleasant wine with a surprisingly good price/quality ratio.

If in the previous article the example of Australian Chardonnay sold by an (incredibly) low price is not only obvious, but it is even a textbook example of the impact of production technology on wine prices is a Bordeaux wine with a protected geographical indication, selling for €3 is a different matter. A wine enthusiast, even someone with a background in the industry, will likely be tempted by such a price, while someone working in the wine industry, and especially a winemaker, will be more than surprised, they’ll be indignant. Moreover, for discounters, €3 isn’t the limit: with the 4+2 promotion, the price per bottle drops to €1.99, €1.69, and even €1.39.
Such prices rightly provoke waves of protests among winemakers, with condemnatory signs hanging outside stores, and entrances barricaded with uprooted vines. And not only for the simple reason that selling a bottle for less than 2 euros (which includes grapes, packaging, labeling, and cork, not to mention production costs) simply makes it impossible to make a profit and live, but also because an unreasonably low price undermines the prestige of the appellation itself, casting doubt on the quality of the wines and their centuries-old status.

So, where did such an incredibly low price come from? Here, not only the discounter’s policy of selling goods at prices (much) below average played a role, but also the crisis of Bordeaux winemaking and the wine industry as a whole:

• decreased alcohol consumption
• decreased interest in wine among younger generations
• preference for other drinks

If we talk specifically about Bordeaux, then the crisis in the region’s winemaking, in addition to the above, was influenced by more specific factors:

• overflowing warehouses, dating back to 2005, when the first plan to uproot vineyards was cancelled due to the “Chinese euphoria” (China had just entered the world stage and began importing wines from Europe en masse), when Bordeaux winemakers, attracted by the population and the “luxury” reputation of European wines in China, essentially staked their future on exporting to that country. At first, the Chinese indeed were buying a lot of Bordeaux, and even wine châteaux were purchased, and prices for the region’s wines also soared, spurred by the Primeurs weeks following very successful vintages. But the COVID-19 pandemic and the burgeoning wine industry in China itself put an end to large-scale purchases, leaving a huge amount of Bordeaux wines unclaimed.
• Bordeaux’s reputation as exclusively red wines, although this is far from true, is causing buyers, who currently prefer white wines, to pay less attention to the region.
• The contribution of wine critic Robert Parker, who once wielded enormous influence in the wine world, especially in Bordeaux. Winemakers were so eager to please his taste for powerful, tannic wines, with a pronounced notes of oak, fearing the loss of everything due to one bad review or comment from him, that they tailored their wines to these tastes. R. Parker retired long ago, and consumer tastes have considerably shifted towards a lighter, fruitier style, without the heavy flavor of new oak, but the reputation Parker bestowed upon Bordeaux remains.

If you add to the fact that Bordeaux is generally unsold, the low prices that consumers see in stores and “format” the price range they can afford, then the economic situation and future of the region look bleak.

Tasting: Baron de Ceyssac 2023 Bordeaux

Color: Ruby, medium intensity

Aroma: Medium intensity, bouquet Simple, with a dominant flavor of tart red berries (tart strawberry, tart red cherry, cranberry, red currant), but light barrel notes are still present (menthol, liquorice, fresh wood, resin).

Taste:Surprisingly, it’s quite pleasant. The attack is fruity, revealing the same ripe berries as the aroma (strawberry, cranberry, red currant), but slightly sweeter, complemented by notes of black currant and black plum. The tannins are soft, not drying, enveloping. The taste also features slightly more pronounced sweet barrel notes (coffee bitterness, dark chocolate, vanilla). The finish is short but pleasant, with medium but fairly fresh acidity, a subtle hint of blackberry, and a good bitterness.

Overall impression and quality assessement: A surprisingly reasonable wine for its price, even quite pleasant. I think it might have been more expensive initially, but the producer signed a contract with a discounter to sell it at a lower price.

Where did the barrel-aged notes in the profile come from on a wine priced at 3 euros, considering it was aged in oak barrels?

Does this add at least 1 euro to the price? The barrels were definitely used (as indicated on the label), but not new ones, which are needed for micro-oxidation, not for the development of oak flavors. The rather expressive oak flavors (vanilla, chocolate) could have come from the addition of oak chips or staves to the barrels during aging qnd not from used oak. When wine is “infused” with wood in this way, oak notes are more pronounced, in a positive sense, reminiscent of vanilla, charred wood, and toast, rather than, for example, roasted hazelnuts or cocoa. And this option is much cheaper, than new barrels.

Conclusion: Does inexpensive Bordeaux really equal mediocre wine?

In addition to the points above: one of the indirect causes of the Bordeaux wine crisis, paradoxical as it may sound, could be those who gave the region its global reputation. Expensive Grand Crus, undoubtedly great and exceptional wines, have given Bordeaux wines a reputation for being expensive. While this isn’t entirely true, and only 3% of all winemakers produce Grand Crus, affordable Bordeaux will raise questions and doubts in the consumer’s mind. The region boasts plenty of pleasant, easy-drinking, and affordable wines that suit modern tastes and complement both rich winter dishes and light summer appetizers (some reds can even be served slightly chilled). And for these, don’t go to a discount store; it’s better to go to a wine boutique or directly to the château, which will allow the winemaker to reap a fair reward for their work.