How can we characterize the wines of 2024? Fresh, tangy, easy to drink, pleasant but not exceptional. The meteorological conditions of 2024 have been a difficult test for Bordeaux winemakers – temperatures generally below average and increased rainfall have remained stable throughout almost the entire vegetative cycle, which has slowed down the ripening of the grapes and created conditions for the spread of mildew and gray mold. An unstable rainy autumn has also made the grape harvest difficult. As a result, not only the terroir, but to a greater extent the work of the winemakers has become decisive in the final result and profile of the wine.

In this article, I will tell you what to expect from the wines of the 2024 vintage and give a description of this difficult year.

Characteristics by months and seasons<>/h2

Each season affects the vegetative cycle of the vine, its development, and, accordingly, the characteristics of the grapes. It is the grapes that are the determining component of the organoleptic profile of wines, and therefore understanding the influence of weather conditions throughout the vegetative cycle can give a preliminary assessment of the character of the wines. Let’s consider each season of 2024 in detail.

Winter: wet and warm, which slowed down the onset of bud break and made work in the vineyards difficult. But another reason for the delay in the onset of the vegetative cycle and its uneven onset throughout the region is the frequent practice of late pruning, which somewhat delays the onset of bud break and thus helps to survive the period of possible frosts without losses.

Spring: warm and sunny April (from 3/04 to the middle of the month) contributed to the opening of buds and a relatively quick start to the cycle. On average, this happened 2 days later than in 2023, under favorable conditions. In about a week during this period, the vine developed three full leaves, but after a radical and prolonged drop in temperatures starting on 15/04, three frost episodes (19, 22 and 23 April), vine growth slowed to one fully expanded leaf per week. However, the frosts did not cause serious consequences and crop losses, and multiple heavy rains did not exceed the average rainfall for this period. May, wet and cooler – by the end of the month there was 80% more rainfall than average, and 30% less sunshine. As a result, spring 2024 was 34% wetter than average, and May 2024 was the first month in the last 2 years with below-average average temperatures. In these conditions, the growth rate of the vines in May was average, and on the developing leaves there appeared

Summer: in general, a rainy June (despite the dry and sunny last week) made it difficult for the vines to flower and contributed to the physiological disorders of the vines – coulure (dropping of flowers without the formation of ovaries) and millerandage (formation of berries of different sizes on one bunch of grapes). But due to the uneven distribution of precipitation (mainly in the form of thunderstorms), alternating with hot weather, the most serious problem in the Bordeaux vineyards in the summer of 2024 was the fungal disease mildew, which spread not only to the leaves, but also to the forming bunches. July began with a cool week, but then an anticyclone brought alternating hot (with temperatures above average) and cool (with temperatures below average) periods and thunderstorms. Thanks to the dry and sunny last ten days of July, by the end of the month the berries had already started the ripening process in the earliest areas, despite the slowdown of this process in the region as a whole due to excess moisture in the soils (accumulated during the rainy winter, spring and summer thunderstorms). Obvious ripening began only by the end of the last week of August, which turned out to be quite warm and sunny (not counting individual thunderstorm episodes). By the end of August, the Merlot variety had almost completed the first stage of ripening – the change of green color of berries to red. At the same time, mildew continues to pose a threat to the vineyards of Bordeaux, to which was added the phenomenon of “rot brun” – the drying of berries affected by mildew. The last week of August turned out to be hot, with temperatures above 30 degrees.
Autumn: Unlike the end of August, September was again distinguished by coolness and increased precipitation, which slowed down the accumulation of sugar in the berries, but did not affect the gradual decrease in acidity. The rainy season that began on September 20 accelerated the harvest of Merlot, whose ripening had been slowed by the cool weather. However, the variety gradually acquired more pronounced fruity tones, while maintaining a noticeable but not sharp acidity. The later Cabernet Sauvignon, which was harvested in mid-October, finished ripening in more stable and favorable conditions, significantly changing its organoleptic characteristics – the berries acquired more intense fruity tones and significantly reduced the level of acidity.

How did the wines turn out in such conditions?

The 2024 vintages should not have the richness, power and tannic structure of exceptional vintages such as 2009, 2010, 2020 and 2022. The 2024 vintage can be described as fresh, delicate and easy to drink.
The reason for this was the rainy weather – a typical characteristic of an oceanic climate, often difficult and demanding from a viticultural point of view. The 2024 vintage required effort and reactivity from the winemakers: from April until the beginning of ripening, they resisted attacks of mildew, to which were later added coulure and millandage due to rains during flowering, and even gray mold, which did not affect previous vintages. As a result, depending on the terroir, the location of rains and thunderstorms, the technologies used, the funds involved and the sorting of grapes, the amount of harvest and the character of the wines in some places differ significantly.
Red wines with a dominant of Merlot are aromatic and fruity, but in 2024 they do not have the depth and density of wines of more successful vintages, although the most favorable areas for this variety on the Right Bank yielded more full-bodied and concentrated wines. On less favorable terroir, this variety acquired grassy shades and sometimes even a “watery” character.
Those dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, which was able to ripen in drier and sunnier October weather, are distinguished by greater richness, especially on the most favorable gravel terroir. As for white wines, the absence of prolonged periods of heat and the soil being saturated with water, gave aromatic citrus-floral Sauvignon Blanc with high acidity. The more capricious Semillon expressed itself differently, depending on the terroir – the most favorable gave rich, juicy and aromatic wines, less suitable resulted in a lack of concentration.
For sweet wines, 2024 was quite successful, thanks to the early appearance and uniform distribution of noble rot. In general, sweet wines turned out to be balanced and aromatic.
Overall, 2024 will not go down in history as an exceptional year for Bordeaux wines, but it is quite capable of satisfying the modern consumer who prefers drinkable and fruity wines that do not require long aging and maturation.

Graves de Vayres Grape Varieties

As in the wider Bordeaux region, the following red varieties are permitted in Graves de Vayres:

• Merlot
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Cabernet Franc
• Malbec
• Carmenère
• Petit Verdot

White (for dry and sweet wines):

• Sémillon
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Sauvignon Gris
• Muscadelle
• Merlot Blanc (accessory variety)

Graves de Vayres

Under its name, the region produces almost all colors and types of wine (except rosé):

• Red fruity (not aged in barrels)
• Red aged in barrels
• Dry white fruity (not aged in barrels)
• Dry white aged in barrels
• Sweet white

The production of rosé wines is permitted, but under the general name Bordeaux Rosé, or Bordeaux Clairet. The latter is a special type of wine of a dark pink color, in style between rosé and red. Read more about Bordeaux Clairet in my last article.
Graves de Vayres is a small, little-known wine region, located in the shadow of the vast Bordeaux and its famous Grand Crus. But it certainly deserves special attention, and its wines are distinguished by the classic Bordeaux style. Most of the production (70%) goes to the French market, but these wines can also be found on the international market (30% of the production) and are definitely worth tasting.

Tasting notes

Dry white wines

Château Jean Dugay 2023 – a pleasant and quite rich aroma and taste, combining the freshness and tanginess of citrus (lemon), the bitterness of grapefruit, slight minerality, and the floral aroma of acacia. Accessible and airy profile with pleasant tanginess.
89

Château Les Artigaux 2023 – a very aromatic and floral wine with pronounced notes of acacia and linden blossom. The taste has more bitterness than the previous wine (more pronounced notes of grapefruit juice and zest, as well as other ripe citrus fruits), complemented by herbal nuances. Pleasant enveloping texture, long aftertaste, balanced by acidity.
88

Château Pichon-Bellevue 2023 – a wine with a more juicy profile, combining stone fruits (peach, apricot), a sweet floral bouquet (acacia, apple blossom) and refreshing, but not excessive acidity. The taste is balanced, enveloping, with a slight bitterness and pleasant freshness.
89+

Château Juncarret 2023 (barrel-aged blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscadelle) – a wine with a pleasant and delicate profile, combining shades of honey and acacia flowers, fresh and candied lemon, and the bitterness of grapefruit. Harmonious and pleasant wine.
89+

Château Cantelaudette 2023 – compared to the previous ones, this wine has a more acidic (in a good way) profile with shades of green apple, green pear, lemon zest and crisp sour apricot. The piercing acidity matches the freshness of the tastes and aromas.
88

L’Art des Artigaux 2023 – a rather rich and varied profile with a rich taste and aroma of fresh citrus, stone fruits (peach, apricot), acacia, a hint of pineapple and peach in syrup, as well as a light milky and oaky shade. Pleasant bitterness and woody notes in the taste, which have not yet completely merged with the fruits, but overall are harmoniously integrated. It is worth waiting a couple more years for the wine to fully open up.
90

Château Gaudichaud 2023 – aroma of juicy stone fruits and white flowers, the taste complements the profile with citrus acidity and pleasant bitterness of grapefruit. Average length of aftertaste.
88

Château Bel-Air 2022 – enveloping taste and aroma, combining the juiciness of peach, sweetness of vanilla, acacia flowers, citrus jam and honey with a pleasant sourness of red orange and bitterness of grapefruit. Round, pleasant texture and balance.
90

Château La Fleur de Graves 2022 – the aroma combines notes of exotic fruits (passion fruit, pineapple), peach, candied lemon, honey and acacia. The taste is balanced, reflecting a bouquet of aromas, to which a hint of toast, vanilla and pleasant bitterness are added. A long aftertaste with a hint of toasted bread.
89

Château Fage 2021 – a wine with pronounced acidity and citrus character in the aroma and taste. Lemon, grapefruit, bitter orange (which add a delicate bitterness), acacia, apricot. Medium-long aftertaste with citrus notes.
88

Château Pichon-Bellevue 2021 – the bouquet of aromas is quite delicate, but quite rich and complex. The first notes are toast, vanilla, honey, ripe stone fruits. The taste is bright, enveloping, with a subtle floral bouquet (white flowers, acacia).
90

Château Brouscailliou 2018 – a very aromatic wine with notes of apple, pear, pineapple, passion fruit, acacia and a light touch of toast. The taste is rich, balanced, with a slight bitterness.
90+

Château Cantelaudette Réserve 2022 is an aromatic wine with bright barrel shades of toasted bread, hazelnuts, as well as oil and citrus (lemon, lemon zest) and apricot. Balanced and pronounced taste with a slight bitterness of grapefruit.
91

Red wines

Château Cantelaudette Tradition 2020 – (100% Merlot) in the aroma – black cherry, bird cherry, black plum, black currant, licorice and a light herbal shade. The same tastes, with a pleasant bitterness, freshness and high acidity. Refreshing and drinkable wine.

88

Château Cantelaudette Sans Soufre 2022 – in the profile – only fresh sour fruits: sweet cherry, sour cherry, red and black plum, bird cherry, strawberry. Soft, barely noticeable tannins. Typical wine without added sulphites.
88

Château Les Artigaux 2019 – ripe, slightly sweet chocolate aroma, complemented by notes of black and red plum, strawberry, as well as a coniferous note of pine needles. Soft, enveloping texture, quite a long aftertaste.
89

Château Pichon Bellevue 2020 – a bright fruity bouquet of aromas with shades of black cherry, sweet cherry, sour red cherry, black currant, black pepper and violet. The taste is slightly less pronounced, but quite rich, with a pleasant freshness.
89

Château Jean Dugay 2020 – (100% Merlot) the aroma is restrained, but juicy and fruity (black cherry, black plum, black currant, strawberry). The same in the taste, with a pleasant bitterness and freshness.
89

Château Fage 2020 – a very fresh organoleptic profile, combining sour fruits (red cherry, raspberry, strawberry, red cherry), complemented by licorice, mint and croutons. A long aftertaste with a herbal tint.
89+

Château Gaudichaud 2019 – bright floral shades of peony and violet, ripe fresh berries (raspberry, black cherry, black plum, bird cherry), complemented by cocoa and dark chocolate.
89

Château Panchille « D’une Rive à l’Autre » 2020 – the aroma is predominantly fruity, with a subtle woody and spicy shade (croutons, burnt wood, coffee, chocolate). Soft tannins and a pleasant bitterness in the aftertaste.
89+

Château Haut-Gayat 2018 – the aroma is somewhat restrained, but ripe, fruity, slightly spicy and woody, with delicate tertiary notes. The taste is enveloping, fruity, with restrained spicy and tertiary character. Refreshing acidity in the aftertaste.
90

Château La Caussade 2020 – a rich bouquet of black berries (black cherry, black currant, black plum) with a hint of toast, burnt wood, chocolate and licorice, with a hint of violet. Pleasant, illuminating acidity.
89

Château Lesparre 2020 – juicy berries in the bouquet (black cherry, sweet cherry, black currant, strawberry, raspberry), with spicy hints of licorice, coffee, croutons. The taste is rich and juicy, pleasant tannins with a good structure.

90

Château Petit Puch 2019 – the woody and spicy character of the aromas (coffee, licorice, burnt wood, chocolate) is balanced by juicy ripe fruits (black cherry, plum, blackberry, strawberry). The taste is enveloping and elegant, with velvety tannins and fresh acidity.
92

Château Gonet La Nature Sans Soufre 2020 – (without added sulphites) purely fruity aroma of strawberries, juicy red cherries, red currants. Light bitterness on the palate. Pleasant and drinkable wine.
88

Château Haut-Gayat, Cuvée Quintessence 2019 – quite pronounced woody notes (toasted bread, charred wood, a hint of smoke), complemented by spices (licorice, vanilla), violet and ripe berries (strawberries, black cherries).
90

Château Toulouse 2020 – an enveloping, even textural aroma of juicy ripe berries (black cherry, wild strawberry, ripe raspberry, raspberry jam), complemented by licorice, croutons and chocolate. Good length of aftertaste with a pleasant bitterness.

89

Château Pichon-Bellevue Cuvée Elisée 2020 – notes of sweet cherry, black cherry, black currant and plum appear first, followed by berry jam, licorice and vanilla. Rounded texture and soft tannins.
89

Château La Fleur des Graves 2019 – well-balanced woody(toasted bread, hazelnuts, cocoa), fruit (strawberry, black cherry, ripe raspberry, sweet cherry) and floral (peony, violet) shades. Well-constructed taste with a slight bitterness and high acidity
90

Château Bel-Air Eiffel 2020 – wine with a clear “barrel” character (vanilla, toast, chocolate, roasted hazelnuts), juicy fruits (strawberry, sweet cherry, black cherry), enveloping texture, good acidity and balance.
91

Château Les Artigaux « Cuvée des 3B » 2019 – the bouquet reveals bright notes of aging in oak barrels (croutons, spices – vanilla, licorice, burnt pine needles), ripe and baked berries (black cherry, baked red cherry, strawberry). The wine is structured and rich.

90+

Château Cantelaudette Réserve 2019 – the aroma first reveals notes of aging in barrels (croutons, roasted hazelnuts, licorice, vanilla), then ripe berries – black cherry, strawberry, red currant, and violets. Balanced and bright wine.
90

Château Cantelaudette Grande Cuvée 2019 – the bouquet opens with minty and herbal notes of licorice, wild mint, pine resin, complemented by fresh sour berries (red cherry, black cherry, strawberry, raspberry), vanilla and violet. Quite a long aftertaste and pronounced acidity.
90+

Sweet wines

Château Pichon-Bellevue, Cuvée Milady 2023 – a pleasant, sweet, but not cloying wine, with sufficient acidity and a balance between candied citrus (candied lemon peel, citrus jam) and fresh, very ripe stone fruits (peach, apricot).
90+

Château Jean Dugay Moelleux 2022 is a simple, sweet, purely fruity wine with dominant notes of peach, apricot jam, sweet pineapple and citrus jam.
89

Graves de Vayres is one of the lesser-known appellations of the Bordeaux region (of which there are more than 50). Small in area (700 hectares, but 525 hectares are actually used for production due to urban expansion and uprooting of vineyards), the Graves de Vayres appellation is nevertheless one of the earliest protected appellations of origin of the Bordeaux region – in 2027 it has already had this status for 100 years.

Historical background

The history of winemaking in the region is, in fact, much older. Presumably in 50 BC, the Romans founded a settlement on its territory, which was located at a strategic intersection of the road connecting Bordeaux and Lyon, and the Dordogne River – an important waterway. Later, at this crossroads, called Varatedo (meaning “big pass”), a village of fishermen, potters and artisans was formed, who most likely began to grow the first vines.
The Middle Ages were an important period for the region, both in terms of wine and politics. From 1154 to 1453, the Guyenne region was under English influence, so the territory of the modern Graves de Vayres appellation became a strategically important place. The modern historical landmark of the appellation, Château de Vayres, became a military fortress and the theater of numerous battles. In the second half of the 14th century, the ruler of this chateau was allowed by the supreme authority in the person of the English King Edward I to hold fairs three times a year, which strengthened the importance of the region and favored the commercialization of its wines. At the end of the Hundred Years’ War, the region became French again, and the future King Henry IV gave Château de Vayres to the Vicomte de Gourgue, whose family owned it until the early 20th century.
The advantageous geographical location, which is a commercial crossroads, and the rich history (as mentioned above, the region has been under both the French and English crowns), made Graves de Vayres an important and well-known wine region. Already in the 19th century, winemakers noted the uniqueness of the local gravel soils and used the term itself, “Graves d Vayres”, “gravel of the Vayres region”, to emphasize the characteristics that local wines acquire thanks to these soils.
The Graves de Vayres Wine Syndicate (Syndicat Viticole des Graves de Vayres) was created in 1926 with the aim of patenting the name, as well as territorially limiting and protecting the gravel areas near the city of Vayres itself and those located on the Arvayres plateau. Incidentally, if we take this fact into account, the name has existed for almost 100 years. However, it was not possible to do this right away, because the Graves Bordeaux Wine Syndicate (Syndicat Viticole des Graves de Bordeaux), which regulates the name Graves on the left bank of the Garonne, challenged the use of such a similar name, fearing confusion. On February 11, 1928, the civil court approved the name Graves de Vayres, which meant recognition of the uniqueness of the region. The definitive and officially protected appellation of origin Graves des Vayres appeared on the wine map of France on July 31, 1937.

L’esprit des dex rives – “The spirit of two rivers” or “the spirit of two banks”, a unique terroir

This is how the appellation is described by the winemakers themselves and the President of the Graves de Vayres winemakers association, Yves Glotin.
It is located on the Entre-Deux-Mers plateau, a section between two rivers – the Dordogne and the Garonne. More precisely – on the bend of the Dordogne, on its left bank. On the right bank, directly opposite, are the famous names of the right bank (not only the Dordogne, but also Bordeaux) – Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac. That is why such a capacious definition – “the spirit of two banks” – perfectly characterizes the features of the Graves de Vere terroir:

• Gravelly soils with a reference to the well-known soils of similar composition in the Médoc, Graves and Pesac-Léognan
• The influence of the proximity of the river, which recalls the right bank of the Dordogne

But these two features still differ from the corresponding characteristics of more famous regions:

• Climate – the proximity of the river influences the climate of the region (which is generally characterized as oceanic), softening the temperature in winter, bringing coolness in summer and morning fog in autumn, which allows for the production of rich white grapes for the production of sweet wines.
• Soil characteristics – the gravel in the Graves de Verre region was washed up by the Dordogne from the Massif Central, and not by the Garonne from the Pyrenees, as in the Médoc, for example. Therefore, these gravelly soils are not identical in composition. In addition, the gravel is more deeply buried than on the surface.

More about the terroir

The unique composition of the soils, which gives inimitable characteristics to both red and white wines:

• a mixture of gravel brought by the Dordogne, pebbles, sand and clay. This composition directly (and favorably) affects the nutrition of the vine with minerals and the ripening of the grapes – the gravel heats up under the sun’s rays during the day and slowly cools down in the evenings, allowing red varieties to ripen better, and white varieties receive expressive minerality from its chemical composition. In addition, such gravel soils provide good drainage and avoid excess moisture, which forces the vine to develop a root system deep, behind the source of water. And passing through the various layers of soil, the roots absorb not only water, but also minerals, which will then be reflected in the taste of the grapes.
• The moderate clay component of the soil allows the vines to receive a limited amount of moisture, optimal for the ripening of grapes and sufficient for the existence of the vine, when it focuses on the ripening of grapes, and not on its own survival
• The typical sandstone with iron in the region, as well as gravel-sandy soils, provide a special mineral composition of the soils, which is reflected in the rich and varied organoleptic profile of the wines

Features of the climate of the region:

• Its type is defined as “moderate oceanic”, because it is influenced by the Dordogne River and the Atlantic Ocean
• The proximity of the river helps to soften the temperature difference between day and night, which favors the uniform ripening of the grapes
• In case of heat and drought, the humidity of the river helps to reduce the ambient temperature and preserve the acidity in the berries
• In general, this climate ensures slow ripening of the grapes, with the accumulation of a rich bouquet of aromas, excellent concentration and depth, while maintaining the acidity in the berries necessary for the balance of the wine

This terroir creates special wines that absorb the “spirit of both banks”, combining the structure and minerality of the wines of the Left Bank of Bordeaux, thanks to the gravel in the soil, with the juiciness and softness of the tannins of the wines of the Right Bank, thanks to the moderate climate and the predominance of Merlot in the blend.

In the next article I will go into more detail about the region’s wines and give some examples.

Which Bordeaux wines are the most unique? The tannique and powerful red Grand Cru Classés of the Médoc, created to age for decades? The deep and velvety Premier Grand Crus of Saint-Emilion and the wines of Pomerol, which acquire an incomparable complexity of bouquet over the years?
Although in general the expensive classified Grand Crus are the pride, the locomotive and the main fame of the entire region, they produce about 3% of the total volume of Bordeaux wines. While Bordeaux Clairet, which will be discussed in this article, produces only 0.7%.

What is a “clairet” or “claret”?

There are some subtleties here. In essence, these terms refer to the same type of wine, but if we consider them from a historical and modern point of view, we can highlight a couple of nuances.
According to official specifications, the term “claret” applies to red wines, and “clairet” to dark pink wines. And “claret” is the historical name of red Bordeaux wines, which had rather pale color, comparing to the modern ones, when “clairet” refers to a special and unique category of wines with a dark pink color, produces only in Bordeaux.

Historical reminder

After the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Henry Plantagenet (the future king of England), trade relations between France and England began to develop. For three centuries, the English supplied their homeland with barrels of so-called “French Claret”, a term they may have created by combining the Gascon “vin clar” and the Latin “vinum clarus”. This drink, obtained in the Middle Ages as a result of the joint fermentation of red and white grapes, was significantly different from the “black wine” from Cahors or Bergerac. In the 13th century, the port of La Rochelle came into the possession of the French crown, and the English king agreed to provide France with favorable tariffs and duties on the French claret so beloved by the population, motivating the winegrowers of Bordeaux to significantly increase the area of vineyards. After the Battle of Castillon, which in 1453 put an end to the Hundred Years’ War between England and France, the latter again annexed Aquitaine and access to the ocean, after which winemakers began to look for new markets for their wines among the countries of Northern Europe. But the English were quite accustomed to and loved this easy-to-drink wine, and its production continued (although gradually declined), despite the predominance of red and white wines. Is it worth recalling that this famous classification of 1855 put the red Grand Crus of the Médoc in first place and made it a symbol of Bordeaux. But Bordeaux wines got their name and fame thanks to clairet and its export to England.
Until 1950, clairet remained in the shadows, if not completely unknown. But it was in the middle of the 20th century that the famous Bordeaux oenologist Emile Peynaud, together with the first president of the Quinsac wine cooperative, Roger Amiel, developed a method for producing modern clairet, after which both interest in it and the volumes of its production began to grow. And the city of Quinsac is now considered the capital of clairet.

Viticulture and winemaking technologies

Depending on preferences, clairet is characterized as dark pink wine, or rosé with a longer maceration. Or as light red wine, a red wine with a shorter maceration. Or “wine between red and pink.” But unlike true rosé, only six red varieties are permitted for clairet (while rosé does allow white varieties in very limited quantities):

• Merlot
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Cabernet Franc
• Carmenere
• Malbec
• Petit Verdot

Grapes for clairet can be sourced throughout the vast Bordeaux region, not limited to any particular sub-region.
The most common grapes used for this type of wine are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, which are de-stemmed (which simultaneously breaks open the skin and releases the colourless grape juice). They are then placed in a neutral fermenter and left at a low temperature, which blocks the yeast from working and starting fermentation, for maceration. This releases mainly the bright, purely fruity aromatic components and the anthocyanins that give the juice its colour, rather than the tannins, which are more easily released during fermentation by the alcohol produced by the yeast. This process can take about two days, rather than the few hours that it takes for rosé.
As a result, the juice is colored crimson, dark pink, or fuchsia, saturated with aromatic components and a minimum of tannins, and only then, after the removal of the pulp, is sent for alcoholic fermentation under the action of yeast to become, in fact, wine.
There are no minimum requirements for the duration of aging or its type (only neutral steel vats or mandatory aging in barrels) for clairet (with the exception of commercialization no earlier than December 31 of the current year). But such wines are not created for many years of waiting in the cellar and do not have the necessary characteristics for aging in barrels, so their maturation is limited to neutral containers.

Organoleptic profile and food pairings

The result is a drink that is in style between a light red and a rosé wine, with less tannin than the former, but more intense and “vinous” than the latter, with a noticeable but fairly low level of tannins. Usually raspberry or fuchsia in color, clairets have a rich fruity bouquet (strawberry, raspberry, ripe cherry), sometimes with floral undertones.
It is recommended to serve clairet at 8-10 degrees, i.e. slightly cooler than a light red wine (like regional Beaujolais at 12 degrees), but slightly warmer than a classic rose (5-7 degrees). Thus, clairet retains its fresh style and fully reveals its bouquet.
Another feature of this unique Bordeaux wine is that it is food-friendly. Clairet goes well with many summer appetizers – grilled tiger prawns (for those who like it – even with chorizo or bacon), grilled tuna, Greek salad, pizza, white meat chicken or veal… All you have to do is to use your imagination.
By the way, not very mature cheese would be just right here. As I said in my article about wine and cheese pairings, the combination of “cheese + red wine” has historically been established, coming from life in the countryside, where peasants took bread, cheese and diluted red wine with a low level of alcohol and tannins for lunch. Today, Claret can well play the role of this simple, non-tart drink in the company of young brie, mozzarella and tomatoes, fresh goat cheese, Emmental. In any case, Clairet is a truly summer wine that can be served colder, more like a red wine, and which goes well with shashlik (Russian barbecue speciality), light snacks, and even fruit.

Did you know that historically the Médoc wines are not only red, but also white? The production of white wines in this symbolically “red” appellation has been known since the early 18th century, but its volume has not been constant.
The gravelly soils that emerged from the draining of the Medoc marshes by the Dutch to facilitate maritime trade in the Gironde estuary are better suited to late-ripening red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, so the region has gradually become synonymous with tart and long-lived wines.
In 1936, the protected geographical designations (AOC) Médoc Haut-Médoc were officially registered, but only for red wines. But the well-known white wines of the Medoc were not taken into account by the specifications. However, winemakers of small appellations still continued to produce white wines under their own names, but in 1960 the INAO institute banned this, obliging winemakers to indicate “Bordeaux Blanc” on the labels. Thus, from 17,000 hectoliters in 1930, the production of white wines in the Médoc region decreased to 1,800 hectoliters by 1969. Today, thanks to the growing demand for white wines and the desire of winemakers to emphasize the potential of the Medoc terroir for growing white varieties, the production of white wines in the region (but under the same name “Bordeaux Blanc”) has increased to 9,500 hectoliters, i.e. reached 50% of its historical volume.
The development of the specifications for the Médoc Blanc appellation, designed to formalize its uniqueness, began in 2018. In 2023, it was submitted for examination and accepted by INAO on February 6, 2025. It is currently undergoing official confirmation by the state with the possibility of challenge, which will last 2 months. If the specifications are finally accepted, the 2025 harvest will already serve to produce wines with “Médoc Blanc” on the label, which will appear on the market in 2026.

What will distinguish “Médoc Blanc” from “Bordeaux Blanc”?

• Grapes for wines with the name “Médoc Blanc” can be grown throughout the Médoc, including prestigious communal appellations, unlike “Bordeaux Blanc”, for which grapes can come from any appellation in the vaster Bordeaux region.
• A minimum of 30% of the “Médoc Blanc” blend must be aged in barrels, while for “Bordeaux Blanc” barrel aging is optional.

As for the permitted varieties for “Médoc Blanc”, these are the classic white Bordeaux wines Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. In addition, the so-called VIFA (Variétés d’Intérêt à Fin d’adaptation) are permitted: Viognier, Alvarinho, Liliorila, Sauvignac, Floréal and Souvigner Gris (the last two are disease-resistant). The initially proposed Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Manseng were not accepted into the specification.

Although the first wines bearing the Médoc Blanc name will only be seen and tasted next year, their expected organoleptic profile can already be described, as 89 winemakers are producing cuvées from white grapes grown on the lands of the Médoc with favorable characteristics for them. So, white Médoc is:

• wines with a bouquet combining citrus aromas, notes of stone and tropical fruits, shades of flowers and barrel aging
• a round but elegant texture, thanks to the stearing of the yeast lees
• mineral, even salty nuances, depending on the terroir

It remains to be seen when this typicality will be emphasized by the corresponding name.

Every third Thursday in November, France (and not only, since bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau are sent all over the world on the eve of the holiday) celebrates Beaujolais Nouveau Day – the young wine of the current vintage, which is the first to go on sale in the same year. And this is the only wine of a protected designation that can have a year on the label, while other wines of French appellations have not yet completed the production process and can enter the market only in a few months (unless, of course, the producers want to produce wines with an appellation, and not as table wine – Vin de France).
You can read in detail about Beaujolais Nouveau wine, its history, production technology, grape variety, as well as the Beaujolais region and its terroir in my detailed article devoted to this topic.
Here I will briefly recall the key information about this wine and give an example of a tasting of Beaujolais Nouveau 2023. Here’s what you need to know about Beaujolais Nouveau:

• This is a Gamay wine
• It is produced using carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration
• The grapes for it can be harvested anywhere in the Beaujolais region – from the Crus on the granite hills in the north of the appellation to the flat, sandy soils of the south, where the wines of the regional name are produced
• Most often, the grapes for Beaujolais Nouveau come from the south
• This is a light, unobtrusive, simple, very fruity and juicy wine, incredibly drinkable and practically without tannins
• It can only be sold until Christmas of the current year
• This wine is not intended for aging at all, and the sooner it is consumed, the better.

Tasting: Pavillon de la Palud, Beaujolais Villages Nouveau 2023

Color:ruby, with a violet tint, medium intensity
Aroma: Expressive, purely fruity and juicy, with bright shades of wild strawberries, ripe cherries, cherries, raspberry jam and grape juice, as well as a sweetish a hint of peony.
Taste: Fresh and fruity, with the same nuances as in the aroma (cherry, strawberry, sweet cherry, raspberry and peony). There are practically no tannins, the acidity is quite fresh, but soft and pleasant (medium level). The aftertaste is average, but pleasant and juicy.
Overall impression and quality rating: A good typical Beaujolais Nouveau, with its characteristic softness and simplicity.
What to pair with: cold meats, Lyon specialties: salami, meurette eggs, dry-cured ham, Saint-Marcelan cheese, you can even experiment with Camembert and Brie, since this wine does not have tannins that do not get along with the enzymes on the cheese crust.

Despite the unstable geopolitical and economic situation in the world, the professional wine exhibition Wine Paris Vinexpo Paris 2025, which is being held in the French capital for the sixth year (after being moved from its historical homeland – Bordeaux), set a record for the number of international visitors and the number of countries from which they came. For three busy days, the Parc des Exposition Porte de Versailles exhibition center was a platform for business meetings, conferences and exchange of opinions on such significant issues as the impact of climate change on wine production, the reduction of its consumption (both as a phrnomenon and in favor of other alcoholic beverages), as well as the impact of politics on the state of the industry. Nevertheless, in this context, the salon became a center for business, commerce, networking and informal but professional meetings. The importance of the exhibition for both France and the world wine market was underlined by the visits of current and former Ministers of the Republic (responsible for agriculture, tourism, the country’s presence on the world market, food…) and more than 30 official international delegations.
Conferences, meetings with experts (this year about 250 experts from all over the world participated in 130 different master classes and events). And the analytical platform The Voice of Industry, created by Vinexposium (an organization that unites several international Vinexpo exhibitions – in addition to the Parisian one, American, Chinese, Indian, etc.), allows us to establish the global goals of the alcohol industry, expressed and assessed by its most influential representatives. Overall, the exhibition itself has expanded in 2025 compared to 2024:

• foreign participants completely occupied 3 halls and 80% more space compared to 2024
• 54 countries were represented at the exhibition with 116 pavilions (8 more than in 2024)
• among the visitors in 2025, there were 45% more foreigners from 154 countries
• 35% more buyers from key markets came to Paris to conclude important deals
• France also increased its presence at the exhibition: there were 7% more French winemakers, merchants and cooperatives overall

The part of the exhibition dedicated to strong alcohol, cocktails and other drinks (including non-alcoholic ones), Be Spirits, takes an increasingly important place at Vinexpo:

• 34 countries presented their products
• almost 300 producers, of which 76% were new, participated in the exhibition
• their space increased by 47%
• in addition to the major French brands, 2.5 times more participants came from other countries, compared to 2024, including 10 new countries

According to Vinexposium CEO, Rodolphe Lameyse, the 2025 exhibition has become especially significant in the context of its instability and an important driver for the entire industry.

The group’s next exhibitions in 2025 will be held in:

• Miami (Vinexpo America from 7 to 8 May)
• Singapore (Vinexpo Asia from 27 to 29 May)
• Mumbai (Vinexpo India from 11 to 12 October)
• Amsterdam (World Bulk Wine Exibition from 25 to 25 November)

The full press release can be read on www.vinexposium.com

On February 10, 2025, in the context of the professional wine exhibition Wine Paris Vinexpo 2025, the Crus Bourgeois of Médoc published the second, revised classification of chateaux since 2020. The official list of 2020 included 250 estates, in 2025 – 170. Note that the number of cru bourgeois depends not only on the quality of the wines (moreover, one of the principles of cru bourgeois is a guarantee of the consistency of good quality of wines and the desire to improve it), but also on how many châteaux applied for the acquisition and renewal of the status.

Historical background reminder

In the Middle Ages, when the city of Bordeaux was in the possession of the English crown, its wine merchants selling the wine produced from their own vineyards on the local market, as well as on the export, were exempt from taxes and duties on their activities. This privilege significantly strengthened the well-being of these “bourgeois” (“citizens”, which comes from the word “bourg”, “city”), and they could afford to buy the best plots of the Médoc region from the 15th century, which acquired the name “cru bourgeois”. Their first classification, or rather a list of prices, was drawn up by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce (Chambre de Commerce de Bordeaux). By the 19th century, a hierarchy was gradually established, and in the form of a publication numbering 248 châteaux, divided into three categories, it appeared in 1858, thanks to Monsieur d’Armailhac.
The first official classification, numbering 444 châteaux, was drawn up in 1932 by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and the agricultural department of Gironde. Although it was never confirmed by the Ministry, it was still referred to.
In 1962, the Cru Bourgeois Syndicate was created, and in 1979, the Cru Bourgeois status was recognized by the French government, which gave estates the right to indicate it on wine labels.
The first official classification with three levels included 247 châteaux (151 Cru Bourgeois, 87 Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and 9 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel), selected from 490 candidates, and was supposed to appear in 2003, but was annulled by the Bordeaux Administrative Court of Appeal. The reason for this was that it was contested by several estates that were not included in the classification, who referred to its possible bias and the fact that the then President of the Cru Bourgeois Syndicate was on the commission. To ensure that the concept and classification of “cru bourgeois” did not disappear after the trial, the Syndicate took steps to establish clear quality criteria and classification principles, which were officially enshrined in November 2009.
In September 2010, after the criteria had been finally approved, the first cru bourgeois classification was published for the 2008 vintage. And this principle of a single classification of one, rather than three, levels was followed until September 2019, and was revised every year.
However, in 2016, the issue of returning to the historical three levels of Cru Bourgeois was raised again at the General Assembly of the Syndicate, and a majority of votes were taken to revise the criteria and distribute candidate châteaux into three levels of cru bourgeois. The first classification included 250 chateaux (179 Cru Bourgeois, 56 Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs and 14 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels) and was established from 2018 to 2022 (i.e. the chateaux included in it could already indicate the status they had received on bottles from 2018).

On February 10, 2025, the Crus Bourgeois officially presented a new classification of 170 chateaux (120 Cru Bourgeois, 36 Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs and 14 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels).

Criteria of the three levels of classification

The most important and decisive of these is the quality of the wine, the analysis of its organoleptic profile and its potential for aging (based on a tasting of wines from five vintages), which is carried out by an independent jury of at least six experts. Compliance with this is sufficient to obtain the status of “cru bourgeois”. If a château aspires to higher levels in the hierarchy, then not only its wine, but also its vineyard and winery must additionally meet the following criteria:

1. Vineyard and viticulture technologies must comply with the HVE classifications of level 2 or 3 (Haute Valeur Environnementale, high ecological value)
2. The state of the winery, the technologies used from grape harvesting to bottling, which plays an important role in the quality of the product (the state of the production infrastructure, winemaking methods, aging and storage of wine…)
3. infrastructure: historic buildings and their condition, enotourism offers, conditions for visitors (both for professionals and for the general public), distribution method, place at the national and international level

Once the classification results are announced, at least two of the five vintages under this status (i.e. in the future, until the next classification in 5 years) are subject to quality control checks.

Cru Bourgeois Classification: Basic Provisions and Conclusion

The main goal of the Cru Bourgeois classification is not only to guarantee the quality and authenticity of the wines, but also the collective desire of all the châteaux included in it to maintain this quality, the reputation of the entire appellation, and to make joint efforts to protect the environment. In addition, when buying a Cru Bourgeois wine, it is assumed that the consumer should be sure that he is investing in a product with a reasonable and fair price/quality ratio, that it is not a fake (thanks to the QR code on the bottle), and that the wine reflects the terroir and characteristics of the appellation.

In general, the Cru Bourgeois classification can be considered a reliable guarantor of wine quality, since it is assigned not to the château, but to the wines, and not for the entire duration of its existence, but for five years. If we compare it with other immutable classifications of Bordeaux wines (Grand Cru Classé 1855, Cru Classé de Graves, which cherish it and strive to prevent its revision), then the Cru Bourgeois classification more accurately reflects the realities: the chateau can reduce or expand the area of ​​the vineyard, replace the vines with younger ones, change the wine blend or winemaking technology, which can affect the characteristics of the wine. In this case, the producer has the right not to apply for consideration of his candidacy for the classification, or to choose another level (and the consumer’s expectations will then be justified).
How do winemakers themselves assess the fact of having the status of Cru Classé or Cru Bourgeois? For the historical classifications of 1855, Graves or Saint-Emilion, this fact is very important and is supported by the château. It must be admitted that they received it not only and exclusively for the high price at which their wines were sold by merchants during the creation of the classification, but also for the high quality and potential of the wines. Therefore, they can not only afford strict selection of grapes and a significant reduction in production volumes in the event of an unfavorable vintage and if the quality of the wine was not up to par, but also impressive investments in technology, in the tourism and environmental components of the farm. In the case of cru bourgeois, the main factor in access to classification is the consistency of quality, potential and representativeness of the wine over five years. Not all Medoc winemakers can afford a long transition to production with “high environmental value”, build and maintain a guest house, provide excursions with guides who are constantly on hand, and so on. Some put wine first and everything that can improve it – selected grapes, the best production technologies, new installations – and make a choice in favor of the previous level of classification, excluding the tourism component. Therefore, a simple “cru bourgeois” will not always have new tasting rooms, but there is no doubt about the typicality and good quality of its wine for the set price.

Contents:

Choosing a bottle of wine as a gift is a quite difficult task, especially if you do not know what drinks the recipient prefers, whether he understands wines and how he feels about them in general. Some people only drink red, some do not like sweets, and some choose beer. Therefore, before looking for a wine gift, I advise you to answer a few questions:

• Does the person like wine? If not, then you should think about another gift;
• Does he study wine? If so, then a premium cuvée from a famous appellation, or something unknown and curious will be an excellent choice;
• Maybe he is a connoisseur or collector of rare cuvées and vintages? If so, then it would be ideal to find out which appellation he prefers, whether he has any favorite drinks or those that he dreams of trying. In any case, it is worth looking for something exclusive;
• What kind of wines does he prefer? White or red? Maybe sparkling or fortified? The more information you have, the easier it will be to choose a gift, and the more likely it will be appreciated;
• What occasion are you giving a gift for? The answer to this question will indicate its approximate price. For important holidays – birthdays, New Year, Christmas – expensive things are usually given, and for a party or a meeting of friends, where communication is more important than food and drinks, you should choose simpler drinks.

• Bordeaux from the Right Bank aged 5-10 years, for example Saint-Emilion or Fronsac. They have softer tannins than those from the Left Bank (Médoc and communal appellations).
• Valpolicella Classico (Valpolicella Classico) is a juicy, fruity wine from the Veneto region in northeastern Italy, where Prosecco is also produced.

• Pinot Noir from the New World (Marlborough in New Zealand or California’s Sonoma Valley), where the maritime influence and moderate climate make this popular variety concentrated and balanced.
• Cru Beaujolais Saint-Amour (Beaujolais) is popular for Valentine’s Day. Saint–Amour), one of the most delicate Crus (unlike, for example, the powerful Morgon). In addition, the name translates as “Holy Love”.

• Tavel (Tavel) – representatives of this appellation in the Rhone Valley are only pink. Together with Bandol rosé, they are considered the most “winey” in their category.
• Rosé de Provence (Rosé de Provence) is a famous rosé wine from the south of France, which is perfect for a casual evening.
• Cabernet d’Anjou (Cabernet d’Anjou), Rosé d’Anjou (Rosé d’Anjou) are sweet pink wines from the Loire Valley.

• Sancerre Rosé – dry roséfrom the Loire Valley.

And here’s what you can surprise with in white:

• White champagne brut from the House of Lanson or Besserat de Bellefon, for those who love a subtle mineral style and high acidity, or Bollinger for fans of “vinous” champagne.

• Pouilly-Fumé or Sancerre with pure mineral notes.