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This Barolo is one of the wines from my collection that requires patience, which will definitely be rewarded if you taste such beverages at the best moment, at the peak of their development.
This bottle attracted my attention long time ago, but knowing the characteristics of Barolo and their potential for aging, I firmly decided to wait until it would have at least fifteen years old. It would be a shame to open such wine before it fully opens up. The reward for patience was a unique, harmonious wine with a strong structure and a complex, developed, but not faded bouquet.

Nebbiolo – the main and only permitted variety for Barolo

Nebbiolo is an ancient variety, known since the 13th century, according to the archives of the city of Turin, under the name of Nibiol, and was the most widespread variety in Piedmont. One of the most common versions of the origin of the name “Nebbiolo” is a derivative of the Italian word “nebbia”, which means “fog”, with a reference to the autumn fog that covers the hills of Piedmont during the harvest of Nebbiolo. According to another version, “nebbia” is not a fog, but a whitish haze covering the skin of ripe berries. Over the centuries of Nebbiolo’s existence, the variety has acquired several mutations and clones:

• Nibbiolo Lampia is the most common
• Nebbiolo Michet is a form of the previous variety, formed as a result of infection with the grapevine fanleaf virus
• Nebbiolo Rosé is a pink Nebbiolo, which today is considered as an independent variety, and not a clone of Nebbiolo
• Nebbiolo Bollo is a previously common, but now rare variety

Nebbiolo has a long vegetative cycle – the bud break occurs early, but the grapes ripen quite late. The variety is also quite picky about soils, preferring a mixture of marl and limestone, especially in the north and south of Alba and on the right bank of the river Tanaro (which is precisely the area of Barbaresco and Barolo, famous for the quality of their Nebbiolo wines). Like Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo offers a surprisingly vivid reflection of the terroir and is capable of producing wines with a multilayered palette of nuances, high acidity and rich tannins. Here are just some of the aromas characteristic of wines from Nebbiolo: resin, rose, violet, wet leaves, licorice, dried cherry…

Barolo Terroir

The appellation is located in the south-eastern part of Piedmont, at the foothills of the Alps. Most of it is steep hills and slopes are facing south. The soils here are mainly a mixture of marl and limestone of marine origin, rich in magnesium and manganese or iron, depending on the site. It is here, surrounded by the Alps and the Apennines, under the sun and on such special soils that Nebbiolo matures sufficiently and shows its best in wines that will not even appear on the market for at least five years after the harvest (according to the requirements of the appellation), and will require at least twice as much patience.

Tasting: Bovio 2006 – Barolo

The Bovio winery produces elegant Barolos using traditional methods, in a classic style. Careful and meticulous work in the vineyards, selection of plots producing wines with different characteristics, long maceration, aging in large oak “botti” barrels and subsequent maturation in concrete vats – Nebbiolo from Bovio is an example of both classic Barolo and is able to reveal the individuality of individual Barolo Crus.

Color: garnet, medium intensity
Nose: expressive, slightly jammy, with delicate notes of dried berries (dried black cherry, dried raspberry, dried cranberry, dried strawberry, strawberry jam), black olives, and dried thyme. The wine gradually opens up in the glass, acquiring mineral (graphite), resinous and spicy hints (clove, cumin), and then floral (dried cornflowers, violet, dried rose), coffee, bitter almond, cherry stone, dried and fresh herbs (rosemary, dried basil, fresh and dried peppermint), cocoa and dried black berries (blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry). Characteristic tertiary notes (dried porcini mushrooms and truffles) are noticeable, but pleasant and delicate.
Palate: First of all, powerful, but velvety, “polished” by time, tannins and high acidity, characteristic of Nebbiolo are felt. The bouquet first reveals herbal notes of dried and fresh peppermint, basil and rosemary, complemented by the fruity acidity of dried raspberry, black cherry, fresh sweet cherry, black and red currant, as well as a mineral note of graphite, tertiary hints of white truffle, resin and dried rose. A long, developing finish and a complex bouquet.
Overall impression and quality: a fine Barolo at the peak of its development, which has retained youthful notes, acquired delicate nuances of maturity and an elegant tannic structure.
Matching with food: A classic is fresh white truffle, but the wine is perfect on its own, which is even better to fully appreciate it.

From 22 to 26 April, took place the 2023 Week of Primeurs of Bordeaux, a busy annual event when the region presents the wines of the previous year and when thousands of wine professionals evaluate their quality and potential.
How can we characterize 2023 in Bordeaux? The red wines were distinguished by a classic profile, ripe but lively and acidic fruitiness, dry whites – an excellent balance between juiciness, a round body and crisp acidity, and sweet whites – amazing depth, richness and harmony with a great freshness.

Weather conditions in 2023 in Bordeaux

Winter 2022-2023 was distinguished by temperatures close to normal, with cool and dry weather from mid-January. March turned out to be rather cloudy. These conditions ensured a uniform and not early start to the vegetative cycle. Thus, the budburst on vines occured after the frosts, which allowed (almost) to avoid crop losses.
The temperature in spring, despite the average value slightly above normal, was inconsistent: very warm periods were alternated by cooler ones, and as a result, the vines had different developpement, depending on the site. In addition, humidity and coolness, followed by heat, are favorable conditions for the appearance of mildew, which attacked the vineyard and forced winemakers to resort to frequent treatment. More regular temperatures in May allowed to moderate the growth of the vines.
Flowering in late May-early June was fast and uniform, in dry and favorable conditions, without problems.
Summer 2023 was characterized by chaotic and irregular episodes of rains, due to which the ripening of the berries was delayed. Almost all month of June was quite hot (with temperatures above 25 degrees), but at the same time generous in precipitation (in total, there were rains and thunderstorms for 8 days). July was also warm, but not hot, with little precipitation and a lack of sun, which also slowed down the ripening of the grapes. Abundant precipitations led to the absence of water stress, continued growth of the vines and an increase in the size of the berries. In such conditions, the vintage was not precoceous (like the previous ones), and not even “standard” in terms of ripening and the vegetative cycle. But from mid-August, the situation changes. Precipitation almost stops, and daytime temperatures rise to unusual for the end of summer levels. As a result, ripening is completed effectively and in favorable conditions. But uneven rainfall and different soil characteristics (more or less able to absorb and retain moisture, which the vines can access in case of drought) led to different reactions of the vines to these conditions and uneven ripening. Merlot on clay and clay-calcareous soils, as well as Cabernet, more resistant to drought, better endured the hot end of summer, unlike, for example, Merlot on soils with good drainage.
September also brought a warm and favorable Indian summer for completing ripening and for obtaining healthy grapes.

First look at the wines of the 2023 vintage

Despite the hot and dry end of the vegetative cycle, the white wines are successful and balanced, precisely due to the rainy and cool beginning of the cycle. Late water stress and lack of sun in July allowed the white grape varieties to maintain a high level of acidity and acquire fresh aromas. The hot end of the cycle did not affect the overall balance of aromatic components, but allowed the harvest to maintain a favorable sanitary condition. Unlike 2022, in 2023, white grapes had less sugar and higher acidity, thanks to frequent rainfall, fresh temperatures and moderate amounts of sun.
For sweet wines, 2023 provided exceptional conditions. The point mntioned above, ensured the optimal development of noble mold, and the hot and sunny September – the concentration of unique aromas, acidity and sugar in the grapes.

Another blue “wine” that I recently tasted: Luc Belaire Bleu. The Luc Belaire wine house has been around since 1898 and produces original sparkling wines. Currently, it is owned by the fifth and sixth generations of winemakers, who have added an experimental blue to the traditional colors of sparkling wines. And, to their credit, the label says: Cocktail aromatisé de produits vitivinicoles (a cocktail based on wine products), and not “blue wine”, which means that the drink may contain additives necessary for the blue color.
Assemblage of Luc Belaire Bleu: 55% Ugni Blanc and 45% Colombard, sugar in it is 26 g / l, and alcohol – 10%.

Tasting Luc Belaire Bleu

Color: light azure
Aroma: sweet, somewhat chemical, and reminds not only of natural fruits (passion fruit, mango), but also such things as barberry caramel and strawberry bubblegum.
Palate: sweet (but somewhat balanced by a rather soft acidity), with the same tropical, strawberry and barberry shades, not very long lasting.
Overall impression and quality assessment: indeed, the drink is simple and more reminiscent of a cocktail than wine. But it will do for a pool party on a hot summer evening.

 
Is Sauternes only sweet wines? Yes and no.
Of course, only sweet white wines with minimal sweetness (measured in grams of sugar per liter) can have the appellation, but dry white wines are also produced on its territory, but under the name “dry white Bordeaux” (Bordeaux Blanc Sec).
Why are the winemakers of Sauternes trying to add dry wines to their portfolio, when this appellation, we can say, a brand, a mark and a sign of quality, rarity and uniqueness of a sweet wine.
Perhaps there are three reasons:

• Changing consumer tastes, who are gradually moving away from sweet wines in order to reduce sugar consumption or for other reasons. Accordingly, the demand for sweet wines is falling.
• The fickleness of botrytis, the noble rot that allows the typical and unique aromas to be created in grapes, but which requires specific conditions that cannot occur every year.
• A special terroir, more suitable for growing grapes destinated for dry white wines.

Nevertheless, the region produces excellent dry white wines of different styles – direct, purely fruity and fresh, or deep and complex, barrel-aged.
Today I will focus on the Demoiselle de Sigalas Bordeaux Blanc 2015, the second dry white wine of Château Sigalas Rabaud, one of the Premier Cru Classés in 1855. The grapes for this wine have as much attention as the grapes for Sauternes, the main wine of the château. The grapes are hand-picked, sorted, carefully vinified and partially aged in barrels, essentially Semillon, which makes up 70% of the blend, ferments in barrels, and Sauvignon Blanc (30% of the blend) in neutral fermenters. The result is a classic white Bordeaux, with its characteristic restrained spiciness and citrus freshness, complemented by tertiary nuances.

Tasting

Color: pale lemon
Aroma: expressive, with fresh notes of lemon, candied lemon peel, lemon zest, grapefruit juice, floral hints of acacia, linden, as well as light tertiary notes of honey, wax, saffron and nutmeg.
Palate: balanced, with good concentration, pleasant bitterness of grapefruit, tertiary notes of honey and wax, as well as juicy notes of apricot and peach, dried pineapple and the freshness of lemon zest and candied lemon peel. The finish is long and complex.
Overall impression and quality : a very good white Bordeaux with a harmonious profile combining primary fruity notes and a slight hint of barrel aging – notes of sweet spices turning into tertiary notes of saffron, honey and wax.
Food matching: The wine itself is complex, so dishes with a small number of ingredients are recommended – risotto with saffron, tender veal or hard cheese like Tête de Moine or young Comté with fruity notes.

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Abrau-Durso is a famous Russian wine brand, known primarily for its sparkling drinks, but it also produces still wines. I am always interested in tasting Russian wines from the same producer and discover, how they develop (in terms of maturation in the bottle and improvement of the vinfication technologies used), and I even taste some cuvées every year. One of these wines is the sparkling wine Abrau-Durso Brut d’Or Blanc de Blancs.

A brief introduction to the Abrau-Durso Winery

Among the brands produced by the company, the most famous is, of course, the sparkling wine “Abrau-Durso” (besides which the group also includes, for example, “Vedernikov Winery” and “Abrau Estates”).

The Abrau-Durso winery was founded more than 150 years ago, in 1870, by personal order of Emperor Alexander II. It received its name from the names of the Durso River and Lake Abrau, which gave the winery not only its name, but also a microclimate favorable for growing grapes. A year later, the first agronomist of Abrau-Durso went to Europe to purchase grape vines. In Johannisberg, Austria, 10,000 vines of the Riesling and Portugieser varieties were purchased, and at the same time, vines of the Pinot Blanc, Aligoté, Sauvignon and Cabernet varieties were brought from Livadia, Crimea. The first harvest and the first wines were obtained already in 1877. In 1884 and 1887, Abrau-Durso wines were highly appreciated by experts and awarded gold medals for their quality. From 1891 to 1891, by order of Emperor Alexander III, Prince Lev Sergeevich Golitsyn, the founder of winemaking in Crimea and the production of sparkling wines in Abrau-Durso, became the chief winemaker of Abrau-Durso, and during the time that he held this position, Abrau-Durso wine not only continued to be recognized by Russian experts, but also was allowed to have the coat of arms of the Russian Empire ont its label and the title of appanage champagne. In the 1900s, the winery was expanded, the building that was constructed, became its symbol, a cellar for aging also was built. In 1905, Frenchman Victor Dravigny (in whose honor one of the series of sparkling wines of the company is named) was invited to Abrau-Durso. He worked on improving the application of the traditional method in the production of sparkling wines of Abrau-Durso. During his work at the winery (until 1919), Victor Dravigny was awarded by Emperor Nicholas II, and the wines of the estate were served at official receptions at the imperial court.
After the Revolution of 1917, the winery was nationalized, but in 1920 the Soviet estate “Abrau-Durso” was created, which became a major research center and the only estate in the USSR at that time producing sparkling wines using traditional method.
During the Second World War, the estate was destroyed, but was restored by 1950 thanks to an important reconstruction plan. And by 1975, the brand “Soviet Champagne”, “Советское Шампанское”, produced at the plant, was exported to America, Brazil, Italy and other countries under the brand “Nazdorovya”. By the 1980s, the vineyard area was over 1,000 hectares, and the production volume was about 3 million bottles per year, however, over the next 20 years, more than half of the vineyards were lost, and the estate almost disappeared.
In 2006, Abrau-Durso was acquired by the SVL group under the leadership of B. Yu. Titov, who, wanting to preserve the historical traditions of Russian winemaking, began to revive the estate. And already in 2010, the estate’s sparkling wines were awarded medals at the International Wine & Spirit Competition – 2010 (IWSC) in London, and in 2011 the House became the supplier of sparkling wines for the 2014 Olympic Games. In 2018, the premium line of still wines also received recognition from experts. By 2020, Abrau-Durso wines received 31 medals at international competitions and were exported to 20 countries.

Terroir of Abrau-Durso

The terroir of the estate combines several features, important to create high-quality wine:

• The mountain winds of the Abrau-Durso Valley in the foothills of the Navagir ridge not only contribute to the difference in day and night temperatures necessary for the slow ripening of grapes and the accumulation of complex aromas, but also bring a variety of aromatic components (floral, herbal, mineral and salty) from the steppes, lakes and the sea.
• The soils, rocky and calcareous, combine two properties favorable for the vineyard – the ability to heat up during the day and distribute heat at night, maintaining the temperature and thereby prolonging the ripening period of the grapes, as well as a composition, rich in minerals (since these soils of sedimentary origin are the former bottom of an ancient ocean), which gives the wine an expressive minerality.
• The proximity of the sea and the advantageous exposure to the sun, the vineyards are located in an amphitheater on the hills of the North Caucasus Nature Reserve and are blown by sea breezes, which brings coolness at night and sufficient sunlight during the day, ensuring optimal ripening of the berries.

Tasting: Abrau-Durso Brut d’Or Blanc de Blancs 2020

The sparkling wines of the Brut d’Or series are made from selected grapes obtained from the best sites, and are produced using the traditional method of second fermentation in the bottle, then aged on the lees for up to three years.
Brut d’Or Blanc de Blancs is a 100% Chardonnay that reflects the terroir, the typical nuances of the variety and the long aging.

Color: pale gold
Nose: refined and multifaceted, with citrus notes that appear first (lemon, orange zest, bitterness of grapefruit), a bouquet of white flowers, sweet notes of stone fruits (yellow peach, apricot), as well as light notes of aging (butter, roasted hazelnut, vanilla) and minerality.
Palate: bright, straight, citrusy, with a slight bitterness of grapefruit, lime, tanginess of fresh apricot, linden and apple blossoms, as well as notes of vanilla and hazelnut and a mineral hint of limestone.

General impression and quality assessment: good wine, refreshing, pleasant, with refined minerality and some complexity.

What to pair with: noble white fish (sturgeon, turbot), langouste

Historical information taken from the site https://www.abraudurso.ru/

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History of the appellation

Grapes have been grown in the Bordeaux region since Roman times, but viticulture really took off in the Middle Ages.
After the wedding of Eleanor of Aquitaine and the English King Henry II in 1152, the vineyards of Bordeaux and Graves entered a period of prosperity, thanks to the law of “privilege” adopted by Henry. The law made difficult, if not impossible, to export wines from regions other than Bordeaux through the city’s port until the wines of Bordeaux itself had been sold, effectively eliminating all potential competitors.
As demand for Bordeaux wines grew (both on domestic and international market, the vineyard began to expand beyond the suburbs to Langon, La Brède (one of the communes that make up today’s Graves area), Mérignac and Martillac (part of the Pessac-Léognan appellation, which was separated from Graves into its own appellation in 1987), in order to delimitate its particular terroir.
But the real golden age for Graves wines came in the 14th century, thanks to the popularity of “clairet” wines – deep pink (or light red) wines that were fresh and light, appealing to English merchants. At that time, the Bordeaux vineyard produced about 80% of such dark pink wines, 17% of reds and very little of whites.
From the 16th to the 18th century, serious and extensive estates began to appear, striving to produce high-quality wines, and Graves wines, “vins de Graves”, began to be considered real and exceptional Bordeaux wines. Exports to England and Northern European countries were growing, and Graves wines are the most important component of the international market.

The cataclysms of the late 19th century (phylloxera, mildew), the World Wars of the 20th century did not bypass the Bordeaux region and, in particular, Graves. In addition, the incredible frosts and a very cold winter of 1956 actually reorganized the Bordeaux vineyard – most of the vines of one of its varieties, Malbec, the least resistant to cold, died and were replaced by Merlot vines. Then, the expansion of the cities of Bordeaux and Langon threatened the areas intended for vineyards. But Graves remains one of the sub-regions that produces classic Bordeaux of very good quality.

Terroir

The climate here is oceanic, temperate, which means significant rainfall and humidity, as well as moderate temperature differences between seasons.
The soils are mainly gravelly (hence the name), which was created by the change of the course of the Garonne River. These soils are characterized by:

• good drainage, which avoids excess water (which can often occur in the region due to the oceanic influence and rain)
• the ability to warm up under the sun’s rays during the day and to give off this heat to the vines in the evening, contributing thus to a better ripening of the grapes
  Gravels can be large or small, mixed with sand, clay, loam.

Types of wine

• red – the main and most famous type
• dry white – aged in barrel and not
• Graves Supérieures – sweet white wines
• Rosé – must be released under the name Bordeaux Rosé or Clairet

Tasting: Château Piron 2004 Graves Rouge

Château Piron is one of the oldest estates in the region, founded in late 1693. Since then, it has been owned by members of the same family, Boyreau, from generation to generation. The chateau’s vineyard includes plots with red and white vines. The terroir is composed from gravelly and limestone-clay soils and the influence of the Gât-Mort river, in whose valley the château is located. Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are grown from white varieties, and Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from red ones.
The red wines of the Graves region have good aging potential and, depending on the vintage, are capable of developing for 5, 10, 15 years.
I tasted a 19-year-old wine, and I could say that it was still at its peak.
Color: garnet (red-ruby with a brick shade)
Nose: quite expressive and typical for an aged wine – combines notes of dried cherry, dried strawberry, dried cranberry (but not without noticeable nuqnces of ripe black cherry), dried roses, slight minerality, as well as hints of undergrowth, mushrooms, dried aromatic herbs (dried mint, bouquet garni – thyme, rosemary and bay leaf), typical for aged Bordeaux.
Palate: the wine still surprises with its fullness of flavours and body (medium body). The bouquet combines very ripe and dried berries (ripe and dried black cherry and strawberry, dried raspberry), herbs (dried mint, dried rosemary) and tertiary notes of undergrowth, mushrooms and tobacco. Acidity is fresh, medium (+), finish is long (medium +)
Food matching: aged premium meat with a distinct flavor, dishes in red wine sauce (for example, roast wild boar)

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The small district of Domme is located in the picturesque Dordogne region, in the historical territory of the Black Perigord, “Périgord Noir”. This part of the Perigord (there is also the White, Green and Purple Perigord, “Périgord Blanc”, “Périgord Vert”, and “Périgord Pourpre”) is much more famous for its black truffles than for its wine, although there are vineyards here too. In addition, the larger territory of the Dordogne department, which includes the historical Perigord, produces quality red, white dry and sweet wines (with appellation of Bergerac, Pecharmant, Montravel, Monbazillac), which could even compete with Bordeaux wines, since they are made from the same grape varieties. But the cunning Bordeaux merchants, the only ones with access to the international market, thanks to the Gironde estuary flowing into the Atlantic Ocean, imposed in18th century significant taxes on any wines not from Bordeaux, essentially making impossible to sell them abroad, because their prices thus became enormous. But that’s a completely different story.

History of Domme appellation

In its heyday, it can’t be said that the Domme vineyard was extensive – it accounted for about 2,700 hectares, which is five times smaller than the area of modern Bordeaux. But the cataclysms that followed one after another from the end of the 19th century (the phylloxera epidemic that devastated European vineyards, the First and Second World Wars) contributed to its desolation and disappearance. By 1960, only 540 hectares remained from 2,700 hectares, and by 1985 – only 90 hectares.
The Domme vineyard owes its revival to the residents and authorities of the district, who love and value their land. The idea of reviving viticulture appeared back in the 1980s, and after long administrative procedures and the necessary declarations, in 1994 the first 0.5 hectares of vines were planted, and the necessary infrastructure for wine production was built. The first harvest was collected in 1996, and in 1998 a winemakers’ cooperative was created, which went even further and in 2018 converted half of the vineyard area to organic viticulture. 17 winemakers stood at the origins of the revival of the local vineyard and, through joint efforts and investments, built a modern infrastructure for the production and aging of wine. Today, 25 years after its creation, starting with half a hectare of experimental vines, the cooperative has 11 members and 18 hectares of vineyards, and produces wines that are noted by judges of wine competitions.

Terroir and grape varieties

The terroir of IGP Vin de Domme (one of the smallest vineyards in France has its own protected geographical indication) is:

• mostly clay-calcareous soils, suitable for Bordeaux varieties
• calcareous plateaus
• good exposure of vineyards to the sun
• altitude from 100 to 250 meters above sea level
• some oceanic influence that reaches the Perigord from the Atlantic
• the climate-moderating influence of the Dordogne River

The last two features are characteristics of the IGP Vin de Domme, thanks to which the grapes achieve better phenolic ripeness and acquire a good tannic structure. White varieties are planted on calcareous soils, which give them freshness, acidity and a slight minerality.

Tasting: Vin de Domme 2014. Périgord Noir. Les vignerons des coteaux de Céou

Color: medium intensity, ruby with distinct garnet hues.
Nose: Vibrant, with a pleasant fruity juiciness of still perceptible primary notes (fresh red cherry, red currant, strawberry, raspberry), floral bouquet (rose, violet, wild flowers), herbs (fresh mint), spicy notes of barrel aging (licorice, cloves, caraway sseds) and pronounced, but harmoniously envelopped into the bouquet, tertiary notes of dried berries, undergrowth and dried mint.
Palate: A drinkable wine with a fruity attack (red cherry, red currant, blueberry, black cherry) and spicy notes in the aftertaste. A hint of coffee, undergrowth and sweet spices is also felt. Tannins are fine-grained, soft and barely noticeable, but the acidity is quite high. Medium (-) body and a fairly long finish.
Overall impression and quality assessment: a good wine that has recently passed the peak of its development (the clarification on the label indicates 8-10 years of aging). In the bouquet, you can still feel notes of fresh fruit, which are gradually transformed into dried berries, but tertiary hints of development are already appearing, the tannins have almost completely softened, and the acidity is beginning to dominate a little. It was not worth storing the wine any longer.
Matching with food: a classic from the southwest of France would be a good match – a quality beef fillet steak or duck breast, as the wine still has a good tannic structure, with a garnish of fried porcini mushrooms or puree with truffle oil, as the bouquet already has tertiary mushroom notes.

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In one of my articles, I talked about the so-called volcanic wines, the grapes for which are grown on soils of volcanic origin. And this is not only the solidified lava of the slopes of Etna, but also basalt, granite, as well as soils derived from them, partially including these elements. In fact, volcanic terroirs are diverse, but they have one common feature – plenty of minerals, which they receive to a greater or lesser extent from the ejected magma. Volcanic wine appellations are not necessarily located near active volcanoes either: they are found near extinct and dormant volcanoes. You can read more about the volcanic terroir of Europe in this article, but here I will touch on the volcanoes of France in more detail, or more precisely, its most famous volcanoes – the Auvergne region. Let me remind you that besides it, volcanic wines are found in the following French wine regions:

• Forez in Central Loire
• Rangen -a grand cru of Alsace
• North of Beaujolais
• Fréjus – a region in the east of Provence

Today, Auvergne is more famous for its nature reserve – the valley of extinct volcanoes, listed as a UNESCO heritage site – than for its wines. Once the third largest wine region in France, where the drinks were prized by kings, Auvergne currently has about 400 hectares of vineyards, but, thanks to the growing interest in volcanic wines, it is being revived, and its wines attract with their special character and individuality.

History of winemaking in Auvergne

A region in central France, located on the slopes of the Massif Central, which once boasted a vineyard of several thousand hectares, but practically disappeared after the phylloxera epidemic, shrinking to just a few hundred hectares. During the Roman Empire and the Middle Ages, the Auvergne region was valued as a source of quality wines, and from the 16th century, thanks to Henry IV and later Louis XIV, who particularly appreciated the wines of Auvergne, the wines of the region began to be considered prestigious. With the development of river navigation and railways, the wines of the region were delivered to Parisian bistros, and demand for them increased significantly. Then followed a rapid expansion of the vineyard area: from the end of the 18th to the middle of the 19th century, it increased from 21,000 to 34,000 hectares. But at the end of the 19th century, Auvergne did not escape the fate of other European wine regions – the phylloxera epidemic, which arrived here a little later. Then, at the beginning of the 20th century, there was a mildew epidemic, and then the First World War. Almost all of the Auvergne vineyards perished after two epidemics, and those vines that were grafted onto American rootstocks and replanted were abandoned by winegrowers, who preferred to work at the Michelin factory in the large city of Clermont-Ferrand. During the subsequent Second World War, the vineyards were also left in neglect. However, since the 1930s, recognition has returned to the wines of Auvergne, and in 2011 the Côtes d’Auvergne appellation appeared.

Features of its terroir

The vineyards of Auvergne are concentrated in one of its departments – Puy de Dôme, which bears the name of one of the oldest and highest volcanoes in Europe. More precisely, the vineyards here are located on the slopes of volcanoes (“puys”) that surround the Limagne Valley (“plaine de Limagne”) and create a unique terroir with valuable characteristics:

• The location of the vineyards at a significant altitude – from 300 to 500 meters above sea level (on average 400 meters above sea level)
• Favorable exposure to the sun depending on the slope
• The effect of the mountain wind foehn, which is created as a result of the collision of air masses saturated with moisture and rain clouds coming from the ocean with the mountain range. Thus, rain falls on the western side of the mountains, where the clouds are “stuck”, and on the other side, where the vineyards of Auvergne are located, the air is already dry and heated by evaporation.
• A dry, moderately continental climate, favorable for winemaking, which is facilitated by the foehn effect, which eliminates humidity and precipitation and regulates temperature differences. However, the summers here are quite warm, and the winters are cold.
• Special composition of the soils (mainly basalt and granite, but there are also marl and limestone): high content of minerals, but low content of organic matter, relatively high acidity, detrimental to parasites and good drainage.
• Location on the 45th parallel, dividing the northern and southern wine regions and considered the most optimal for growing grapes.

The combination of such characteristics allows you to get ripe grapes with a fairly high refreshing acidity and a multifaceted bouquet with pronounced minerality.

Grape varieties and types of wines of Auvergne

Wines of the protected name Côtes d’Auvergne – only still, in three colors – white, rosé and red. To obtain an appellation, whites must be 100% Chardonnay, reds and rosés must be Gamay or a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir (but the proportions of the latter must not exceed 50% of the blend).
In addition to the appellation, Auvergne also has a protected geographical indication – IGP Puy de Dôme, named after the famous volcano and the department itself. Here the criteria are much more lenient – a larger number of varieties are allowed and in different proportions, and the wines can be not only classic white, pink or red, but also grey, “gris” (very pale pink, obtained either in the same way as rosé wines, or from varieties with pink skins, such as Pinot Gris).

Auvergne wine producer – Désprat-Saint Vérny

A family business that has been in business since 1885 and was one of the first to notice the peculiarity of the volcanic terroir and the wines of Auvergne. Today, the company is in its fifth generation, which always respects the traditions and reputation of the historic estate.

Terre & Laves Chardonnay. Côtes d’Auvergne 2022 is a white wine without barrel aging, reflecting the terroir in the flexible Chardonnay variety, as well as the combination of the foehn effect, which ensures the ripening of the grapes, and the volcanic soils (the grapes are harvested from different sites located in the valley of volcanoes). The expressive bouquet reveals the ripeness and juiciness of stone and exotic fruits (white peach, apricot, passion fruit), citrus and white flowers, salinity and “stone” minerality, especially expressed in the long finish. The acidity of the wine is high and fresh.

809. Chardonnay Muscaté. Côtes d’Auvergne 2022 is a wine from the 809 clone of Chardonnay, “muscat” Chardonnay, due to its aromatic bouquet, reminiscent of the Muscat variety. Indeed, the aroma of this wine is bright, sweetish, with distinct notes of fresh grapes, sweet yellow mirabelle plum and orange blossom. The wine has a round, oily texture and a subtle sweetness (which comes from this texture and the juicy flavors), but the wine itself is dry and pleasantly fresh, even with a very delicate tartness. The finish is long and fresh with a slight minerality. Indeed, to some extent Muscat, but with higher acidity.

Gamay 348. Côtes d’Auvergne 2020 is a dry red wine made from the Gamay grape, which, according to the rules of the appellation, must be predominant in the blend. The vineyards grow on basalt soils, at an altitude of 348 meters above sea level, hence the name of the cuvée. The wine was not aged in barrels and reflects the bright fruity profile of Gamay, complemented by volcanic hints. Aromas are predominantly berry-like and fruity: black and red cherries, red plums, blackberries, cloves and a slight hint of dried rose. On the palate, the wine is soft and drinkable, the same juicy flavors of berries with a spicy note of cinnamon. Tannins are restrained, soft, good acidity, structure and a long finish.

Boudes. Côtes d’Auvergne 2022 – Assemblage of 60% Gamay and 40% Pinot Noir, without aging in barrels. The grapes grow on terraces and volcanic soils of the Boudes area, south of the Puy de Dôme volcano. The aroma is quite expressive, with a dominant of fruits and berries (cherry, red currant, strawberry, elderberry), with hints of licorice, thyme and dried rosemary. On the palate, black berries and fruits (black cherry, black plum, blackberry) and structured tannins, complemented by minerality in the long finish with a hint of black pepper.

La Légendaire Rouge. Côtes d’Auvergne 2019 is a special wine, to which I dedicated a separate article. Here I will dwell on its organoleptic properties. Assemblage of 60% Gamay of Auvergne (a separate clone of this variety) and 40% Pinot Noir from the best sites growing on different volcanic soils (basalt, granite, pumice), which in addition to aging in French oak barrels (for 12 months) will continue their maturation in cellars at an altitude of 1200 meters. The aroma is distinguished by depth and concentration, juicy, sweetish ripeness (black cherry, black plum, cherry jam, prunes, red currant, ripe raspberry, strawberry), an elegant spiciness (cinnamon, licorice, cloves), as well as pleasant herbal nuances (fresh rosemary, bay leaf). The bouquet is complemented by a slight woody note and aromas of dark chocolate and cocoa. On the palate, the wine shows the same concentration, ripeness, strong and structured, but velvety tannins. The wine is enveloping, expressive and multifaceted, with floral, fresh herbal and spicy notes in a long finish.

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Why is the world of wine so intriguing and attractive? Not only because it is always in movement – winemakers follow the tastes of oenophiles, try new varieties and technologies, and the wine itself, depending on the weather conditions of the current year, will differ from the profile of the wine of the previous year. Wine is in one way or another connected to the past and traditions and, like an architectural structure or a work of art, can tell its own unique story and transmit these traditions.
In this article, I would like to tell you about what was once one of the largest vineyards in France and about a family estate that strives not only to revive it, but also to emphasize the uniqueness of its terroir and the individuality of its wines. We are talking about the Auvergne region and the Desprat-Saint Verny winery.

History of the winery

Desprat-Saint Verny is one of the oldest family businesses in the Cantal department – it has existed since 1885, and today it is owned by the fifth generation.
At the beginning of its history, the enterprise was not a winery, but a wine merchants, which was also considered an important and noble occupation, because wine merchants were engaged in bottling wines, which were then served at the family table for the traditional Sunday lunch of noble families and for important celebrations – weddings, baptisms, republican holidays … In addition, wine merchants supplied wine in barrels to workers and peasants, providing them with the necessary element of their diet.
Then, one of the founders of the estate, Jean Desprat, drew attention to the then unknown vineyard of Puy de Dôme and set himself the task of revealing its potential. Since then, the desire to revive the vineyards of Auvergne, produce high-quality wines and make the region the world capital of volcanic wines has been the main goal of the estate.
Desprat Saint Verny is a partnership of two main enterprises of the Auvergne wine industry – the Desprat family – hereditary wine merchants and Saint Verny – one of the main producers of Auvergne wines. Together they own more than half of the vineyard area and are planning to plant dozens of hectares more.
In addition, the estate unites 65 winegrowers of the region with whom it works, its specialists know each individual plot, monitor the vines, and oenologists participate in the production of wines. The grapes are delivered to a modern winery, working on the principle of gravity and having a modern infrastructure (fermentation tanks with temperature regulation, pneumatic presses) and the capacity to hold 11,000 hectoliters of wine.
Today it is the main producer of wines of Auvergne.

Terroir and Soils

To say that the soils in Auvergne are volcanic would be a huge oversimplification (I talk about appellation of Auvergne in this article, and in general about volcanic wines in this article). Basalt, granite, pumice, peperine (volcanic tuff with admixtures of basalt and limestone), pozzolana (a mixture of volcanic ash, tuff and pumice) – these rocks are found in various proportions on the plots of the Desprat Saint Verny winery or on the plots of its partner winegrowers. In addition, the region has clay-calcareous, clayey soils, and the Kimmeridgean limestone soils typical of Chablis and Champagne, on which white grape varieties grow. If this type of soil (the most suitable for white grapes) gives the wines straightness, freshness, predominantly citrus notes, high acidity and delicate, “chalky” minerality, then the volcanic terroir is the source of a multifaceted, spicy and rich fruity bouquet with a particular minerality that resembles the aromas of dry stone, granite and sometimes graphite. Another feature of the Auvergne terroir, typical for the vineyards of Desprat Saint Verny is the altitude (300-500 meters) and the foehn effect – a warm wind that appears thanks to the mountains of the Central Massif. When rain clouds coming from the Atlantic Ocean are stopped by the mountain peaks, precipitation is concentrated and falls, passing over the mountains much “lighter”. Air masses descend from the mountains and heat up, and as a result of this physical phenomenon, a warm wind appears, which heats the air and contributes to better ripening of the grapes. Read more about the Foehn effect and the Auvergne terroir in my next article.

Wine range

Such a diverse terroir is the source of three wine ranges:

• Fusion– easy-drinking, juicy fruit wines for simple dishes and aperitifs
• Eruption– a range of more complex wines that reflect the characteristics of the terroir
• Magma– a premium line of wines from volcanic soils, with good aging potential

La Légendaire Cuvée

The historical La Légendaire wine deserves a special mention. It was created by Jean Desprat, one of the founders of the winery. He noticed that the wine he kept underground in the mountain beech forests from autumn to spring was transformed and turned into a wonderful drink, and decided to create a wine that would embody the uniqueness of the Auvergne land. Since then, the wine, which has become a living legend, has been aged in the cellars of small, traditional for the Cantal department, high-mountain shepherds’ huts (at an altitude of 1200 meters!), named “buron”. Previously, they were used by shepherds who led their flocks to high-mountain pastures, as a shelter and for the production and aging of local cheeses – Cantal, Salers, Saint-Nectaire, Fourme d’Ambert from mid-May to mid-October. For this premium cuvée, which exists both in white and red, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes from the best sites are used, then the wine is first aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. The final, special stage in the production of this cuvée is aging for 6 months in the cool cellars of a stone shepherd’s hut at an altitude of 1200 meters. It is this wintering that plays a major role in creating the individuality, unique profile and excellent aging potential of La Légendaire cuvée. The underground cellars provide ideal conditions for wine maturation – a constant cool temperature, darkness and the necessary level of humidity, while the lower atmospheric pressure contributes to the appearance of structured but elegant tannins and a special, rich, fresh and harmonious bouquet characteristic of mountain wines.
In the spring, on the last Monday before Catholic Easter, the family invites several hundred special guests who have an amazing opportunity to be the first to taste the new vintage of this cuvée. This event has been part of the Auvergne tradition for 23 years!

Tasting La Légendaire Rouge. Côtes d’Auvergne 2019

This vintage is a blend of 60% Gamay Auvergne (a separate clone of this variety) and 40% Pinot Noir from the best sites growing on different volcanic soils (basalt, granite, pumice).
The aroma of the wine is deep, multifaceted and expressive, with juicy, sweet notes of black cherry, black plum, cherry jam, prunes, dried cherry, red currant, ripe raspberry and strawberry, complemented by elegant spice of cinnamon, licorice, cloves and star anise, as well as pleasant herbal notes (fresh rosemary, thyme, bay leaf). The woody note in the bouquet is unobtrusive, more spicy and toasted than “oaky” and is distinguished by aromas of dark chocolate, cocoa, roasted hazelnuts, coffee. On the palate, the wine is rich, rounded, with amazing concentration, ripeness and versatility. The tannins are strong and structured, but velvety and not drying. The bouquet of flavors is enveloping, expressive and complex. In addition to the nuances of the bouquet of aromas, it is redolent of floral (lily, violet), fresh herbal (fresh thyme and rosemary) and spicy notes in the long finish. A unique wine that should even be aged for several decades and opened on a special occasion!