After the rather cool and wet weather of the 2021 vintage (especially in the context of global warming, or climate change, which we constantly hear about nowadays), 2022 turned out to be more in line with the climatic realities of the present time. The lack of precipitation in winter and the rather dry and hot summer of 2022 especially affected the vegetative cycle of the vines and, accordingly, the organoleptic profile of the wines.
Weather conditions and criteria for a successful vintage in 2022
Before moving on to the assessments, let’s look at the weather conditions of the 2022 vintage:
After a rather dry autumn in 2021, December 2021 was warm and humid, followed by sunny and dry January and February 2022. The beginning of March 2022 was cool, and the weather began to improve only towards the end of the month, which led to a later than in 2021 and uneven start to the cycle (bud break) of 2022.
April frosts (April 2, 5 and 10) were less intense and earlier than in 2021, and had a less significant effect on the vineyard. However, precipitation in early April was also below normal, preventing the soil from replenishing the moisture deficit. Therefore, the growth rate of the vines remained within average values.
May 2022 turned out to be one of the hottest in recent decades. For several days, the temperature reached 30 degrees, followed by localized thunderstorms and hail. This water allowed the vines to grow faster, but, again, it was below normal for the region. By mid-May, the first flowers appeared in the vineyards, and flowering proceeded quite quickly and in favorable conditions.
Thus, in 2022, the first criterion for a successful vintage was fulfilled – uniform and rapid flowering, in favorable conditions.
The hot beginning of summer brought long-awaited water in the form of thunderstorms and, in places, hail, which allowed for the acceleration of bunch formation and the growth of berries. July was characterized by sunny days, high temperatures (above 35 degrees) and no precipitation, which stopped the growth of berries and explains their small size at harvest time. The onset of ripening (véraison – the change in color of the berries from green to red or yellow, depending on the variety) was generally fast and uniform, with the exception of areas with particularly well-drained soils and young vines, where it was slower than the rest.
That is, the growth of the vines stopped before the berries began to ripen (another condition for a successful vintage), but relatively early due to a lack of moisture in the soil and high temperatures. Ripening was most uniform in areas where the soil retained the most moisture after the June rains. In areas with well-drained soils, ripening was slow.
In August 2022, temperatures approached average values, and the end of the season was warm and dry. The light rainfall did not affect the sanitary condition of the grapes, but allowed the ripening process to be unblocked, which had stopped in some areas due to a lack of moisture in the soil. Thus, the winemakers harvested the grapes without haste and were able to choose the most suitable date for this important event.
The harvest of white varieties began early – in the first half of August, which could mean a lack of aromatic substances and low acidity due to the too hot summer. However, Sauvignon Blanc, although with acidity below average for this variety, turned out to be quite aromatic, especially where the terroir allowed more moisture to be retained (clay and clay-calcareous soils). Semillon was harvested a bit later, as it is less sensitive to high temperatures, which allowed it to acquire quite fresh, but juicy aromas of stone fruits.
The red grape varieties produced small berries, with a significant concentration of sugar and quite low acidity (one of the lowest in the last 10 years). Merlot already had no “green” or “grassy” notes at the end of August, but only juicy and fruity aromas. This variety was fully harvested by mid-September in ideal weather conditions. Cabernet Sauvignon continued to ripen in the same favorable conditions, but by the time of harvest it also had quite low acidity for itself. However, both varieties were distinguished by an incredible concentration of anthocyanins, one of the highest in recent years. Thus, the last condition for a successful vintage – a dry and warm end of the season, which allowed late varieties to ripen, and winemakers to determine the optimal harvest date – was fully met in 2022.
Sweet wines and the development of noble rot
For vineyards producing sweet Bordeaux wines, warm and dry conditions at the end of the season are, on the contrary, not the most favorable, since dryness does not stop the development of noble rot but raisins the grapes. In August, the white varieties of the Sauternes vineyards were already perfectly ripe, but due to the lack of moisture, the berries began to dry out. Such grapes are not suitable for the formation and development of noble rot, so they were harvested in the first half of September.
Then, some winemakers decided to take a risk and wait for more favorable conditions, and some decided to complete the harvest by mid-October. However, from the second half of October and after a short wet period, the weather again became drier and windier, which allowed for the rapid and uniform development of botrytis. The harvest in the second half of October yielded concentrated berries, rich in aromas and high sugar content (but with low acidity), which gives hope for deep and concentrated Sauternes wines.
Conclusion: the 2022 vintage is a terroir vintage
As noted above, high temperatures, lack of rainfall and early harvesting have a negative impact on the aromas and acidity of white varieties, which leads to flat wines without much interest and potential. However, clay and clay-calcareous soils played an important role in the ripening of the grapes, so the wines from them turned out to be juicy, aromatic (especially with notes of stone fruit and tropical fruits), with low acidity, but quite harmonious.
For sweet wines, the harvest time was also important – the patience of winemakers who decided to postpone it until mid-October will allow them to obtain rich and full-bodied wines that can withstand decades and have the same low but balanced acidity.
The red varieties have generally made the best of the extreme conditions of 2022 (but favourable during key periods of the vegetative cycle). Merlot on clay-calcareous soils was juicy and fruity without being overripe, Cabernet Franc was aromatic and fresh enough, Petit Verdot, especially those not subjected to excessive water stress, was spicy and rich, and Cabernet Sauvignon was tart without being drying.
After the 2021 vintage, which differed from recent years in its classic Bordeaux character, freshness and high acidity, the 2022 vintage surprises with its richness and generally medium to low acidity, which, however, does not deprive the wines of their balance.
At the moment, the 2022 Bordeaux wines can be described as exceptional, but only time will tell their true potential.
In the next article I will publish dozens of tasting notes from the week of examples 2022. Source: Le millésime 2022 à Bordeaux, Pr Laurence GENY, Elodie GUITTARD, Dr Valérie LAVIGNE et Pr Axel MARCHAL, Institut des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin de l’Université de Bordeaux, Unité de Recherche Œ nologie Avec la participation de N. ALVAREZ, C. BAZ, V. TENINGE, L. RIQUIER et A. RABOT
The YereWineDays campaign will last one week, from May 29 to June 4, the festival will be held from June 2 to 4 of June, from 16:00-23:00, on the central streets of the city: Tumanyan-Saryan-Moskovyan crossroads.
During the campaign, several charity dinners will be held with an invited international sommelier and with a special wine set menu. The dinner will be accompanied by a wine master class presenting narratives of each wine. Tickets will be available from January. We are going to organize also master classes for focus groups: HoReCa segment representatives, young winemakers, and wine enthusiasts.
The next initiative during the “YereWineDays” campaign is restaurant week with the participating restaurants. During one week the restaurant visitor will be introduced to the special menu with a wine treat. The next exciting news is that the “YereWineDays” campaign will be held in supermarkets too helping to promote Armenian wines. The festival visitors will have also a chance to buy or order 400+ wines from one spot.
The 3-day Festival area will be divided into several zones:
Armenian and Artsakh wine producers, restaurants, and cafes will be represented in the wine and gastro zone, which will allow the visitors to taste the wine with a combination of different dishes. Guests will have the opportunity to sample a total of 400+ types of wines from up to 50 wine producers.
In the wine master classes zone will be conducted 9 wine master classes in 3 languages, aiming to spread wine culture, which will be conducted by invited international winemakers and sommeliers. All master classes will be accompanied by wine tasting, which is why entry will be allowed only with a branded glass.
This zone will be located in the Expo area. The entrance fee will cost 10,000 AMD on the spot and a branded cup will be given as a gift to those who do not have it. The wine master classes tickets pre-sale will be available on the “Yerevan Wine Days” official website from January at a price of 5,000 AMD. And those tour operators who will order a “Wine Tasting Package” in advance will receive a wine master classes ticket for 2000 AMD (1 wine master class ticket = 1 Wine Tasting Package).
Music zone: This year we will have one large and bright stage, which will be located at the Tumanyan-Parpets crossroad. Visitors will enjoy high-quality music performed by various bands.
Charity zone: This year, we will also have a charity zone, where the NGOs involved in providing soldiers with education and health care will present their activities, collect money and sell items made by them.
Entry to the event is free for everyone, but to enjoy the presented wines, you need to purchase a special “Wine Tasting Package”. The “Wine Tasting Package” includes: a two-seater tote bag, a branded wine glass, 12 coupons, a booklet containing information about all participating winemakers, discount coupons for restaurants and other interesting and meaningful information, as well as special pages for making notes about preferred wines. The package will cost 12,000 AMD.
Apart from the packages, branded wine glasses will be sold separately for AMD 4,000 and coupons for 12 items worth 3,000 AMD.
“Beer Days” is an annual event, which this year will take place on JULY 8-9, from 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. in Gymri on Sayat-Nova street.
The goal of the event is to present the traditions of Armenian beer, and the novelties appearing on the market, to spread food and drinks pairing culture, and, of course, to promote event tourism in Armenia.
The area will be divided into several zones:
Novelty – There will be a special master class zone, where you can learn the right combinations of Armenian beer and food. We believe that after these master classes, visitors will enter the booths to pair beer and food more professionally.
Beer zone – in this area, Armenian beer companies will present a variety of beers.
Food zone – here visitors can enjoy dishes and snacks that go perfectly with beer, complementing the taste of it.
Music zone – in this zone, guests will enjoy high-quality music performed by various bands. This year there will also be an invited rock band.
Game zone – beer games will be held in this zone. The game pavilions will be spread all along the street.
Entry to the event is free, but in order to drink beer, the visitor must purchase a tasting package worth 10,000 AMD, which includes: a large beer mug, case, 20 coupons.
The event area will be decorated with interesting multi-colored and bright illumination. Visitors will spend their day under crazy and rhythmic music.
This year we will also have a cultural section, where “Beer Days” will present you interesting facts about the history of beer through the banners placed on the street.
PICNIC PARTY
On the August 5th for those who love to relax in the open air will be held an event called “Country Summer Picnic”. The purpose of this event is to give locals and tourists 1 carefree day in the embrace of nature. This will help all of us to get away from the city bustle for a while and enjoy the beautiful bright scenery.
What’s going to happen during the picnic and how is it going to look?
All this will be organized outside the city, on a tidy plot. Picnic will be divided into different zones:
As a tradition, there will be a gastro-zone with food stands;
Cocktail area with bars, where people will be able to enjoy not only cooling drinks, but also shows from professional bartenders;
Standard recreation area: a territory for family leisure, where people can come with their blankets and everything they want (otherwise, everything you need can be purchased on the spot).
VIP rest zone: there will be teepee tents with blankets, large eco-friendly trays with fruits and cooling lemonades, bright pads, flowers, etc.;
Zone of master classes – there will be wreath weaving classes from the most beautiful field flowers;
Children’s zone with various quizzes (for example, pizza cooking) and interactive fairy tale-theatres, where parents can safely leave the children;
Zone with quizzes and contests for adults. For example, the visitors can make personalized cocktail with the help of bartenders. «Best cocktail» competitions on making drinks and so on.
All of this, of course, will be accompanied by atmospheric music!
The picnic will last from 10:00 to 17:00. However, for those who want to extend their vacation, there will be an opportunity to stay until 19:00 to watch a movie or the concert.
Entrance to the picnic is free, but in order to take advantage of all the possibilities that were mentioned above, the visitor will need to buy a branded shop, which includes: bandana, coupons, cocktail glasses and many other things. These coupons will be used in all areas to receive any goods/services. Also, it will be possible to book the VIP zone in advance, avoiding space shortage problems. More information, reservation and selling – from April 1st!
YEREVAN MUSIC NIGHT
“Music gives soul to the universe, wings to our mind, flight to our imagination and life to everything”, and the “Yerevan Music Night” event gives an opportunity to experience all of that in one place. In 2023, the event will take place on the second Saturday of SEPTEMBER, September 9, from 4:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. in the Charles-Aznavour Square.
In 2023, there will be live music performed by popular and recognized Armenian singers, bands and foreign specially invited guest-singers or groups. During these 7 years, “Yerevan Music Night” has hosted world stars like Lou Bega, “Modjo” band’s soloist Yann Destal, famous Danish performer Tomas Nevergreen, a famous Ukrainian group “BandEros”, and famous German singer Oceana.
The festival-gastro part, which has become an integral part of the event, will be provided by “EventTura” company. There will be food and drink booths for tasting alcoholic beverages, cocktails, local and international cuisine. Visitors will taste their favorite food and drinks in a beautiful environment accompanied by high-quality music. Entry to the event is free.
ARENI WINE FEST
The “Areni Wine” festival, which is loved by many, is held every year in the village of Areni. Thanks to its 13-year activity, Armenia, in particular, the Areni village, has become famous in the field of international tourism. This year the festival will be held on OCTOBER 7.
The goal of the festival is to develop the Areni village, making it an attractive place to visit, as well as a cradle of winemaking and an important component of the international wine route.
The festival consists of different areas:
Homemade Wine area, where local and neighboring regions residents will present their wines, as well as national dishes. There will also be various souvenirs boots throughout the village.
Production Wine and Food zone – here Armenian winemakers will present around 100 types of wines, restaurants will offer the best dishes of Armenian and international cuisine, a wide variety of cheeses will be presented in the boots of cheesemakers.
Music area – here guests will enjoy high-quality music performed by various bands.
The entrance to the festival is free, but if you want to taste the wines presented in the production wine booths, you need to purchase the special packages worth 5000 AMD. Packages include: wine glass, a souvenir from the event, а fabric branded comfortable case.
METEXPO – FOOD, DRINKS, TOURISM
“METEXPO – FOOD, DRINKS, TOURISM” is a B2B platform in the Metaverse for Armenian tourism, food, beverage and related sectors service providers and international companies that are interested in Armenian production and Armenia.
Metaverse is a 3D virtual platform, where people can interact with each other through their avatars, in an almost real-world format.
The main GOAL of “METEXPO – FOOD, DRINKS, TOURISM” is to promote Armenian tourism and production, to create an opportunity for cooperation between Armenian and international companies, to increase the popularity of Armenian products, and to export domestic products.
The first virtual festival-expo in the region will be held on November 22-23 in 2023, it will be two days long. For details, you can contact Lilit Margaryan, tel. 094848105, e-mail: metaexpo@eventtoura.org․
Premium Dry Offer -12000 AMD. It includes: 1 wine glass, 12 coupons, a diary for notes about wines, with information about participating wineries and discount coupons from participating restaurants (20-100%) and a ticket for the ruffle from the main sponsor.
Semi-Sweet Offer – 3000 AMD, 12 coupons.
Bubbly Offer – 4000 AMD, 1 wine glass.
As you have already understood, everyone without a minute of thought can take part in this festival, which has become a tradition and continues for the 7th year in a row! We’re looking forward to seeing everyone!
In the meantime, to gain a better insight, we suggest you to watch the video from 2022!
During the professional exhibition Wine Paris Vinexpo 2023, I was invited to visit the stand of the Georgian winery Khareba for a tasting of wines from autochthonous Georgian varieties. This estate is one of the most modern in Georgia, focused on the production of high-quality wines using both modern and traditional Georgian qvevri aging technologies. The Khareba vineyards grow European varieties of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Aligote, Muscat, Pinot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. But the real wealth of the winery is represented by the plantings of autochthonous Georgian varieties, some of which are quite rare (in addition to Saperavi, the winery has plots of Krakhuna, Kisi, Tsitska, Tsolikouri, Tavkveri – in total, the winery has 25 different varieties in its vineyard). The winery owns plantings in different regions of Georgia – mainly in Kakheti, as well as in Imereti, Racha-Lechkhumi and Samegrelo. In total, about 50 types of products are produced: from basic to premium wines, wines with protected geographical indications, made in accordance with modern and traditional technologies, as well as grape seed oil.
Winery Khareba Wine Tasting
Krahuna 2021. Wine from the autochthonous Georgian variety Krakhuna, from the Imereti region, located at the meeting point of maritime and continental influences, with calcareous soils. The wine is made in accordance with modern winemaking technologies (the traditional Georgian method involves aging in qvevri), without malolactic fermentation, with skin maceration for 4 hours. Krakhuna is a local Imertian variety, distinguished by its expressive aroma with hints of ripe stone fruits (peach, apricot, yellow plum), pear, apple, ripe lemon, white flowers (acacia, apple blossom) and fresh aromatic herbs (thyme, sage, mint). The wine is rich, medium-bodied, with a long finish and excellent concentration, balanced by high acidity.
Mtsvane 2021. Modern winemaking methods were also used here, but with an additional battonage for two weeks. The wine has a complex and rich bouquet, combining stone fruits (peach, apricot, nectarine), acacia and apple blossoms, expressive notes of autolysis (brioche, pastry, yeast), as well as the freshness of meadow herbs. Harmonious, rich and elegant wine at the same time.
Tsitska Qvevri 2012. Wine from an autochthonous Georgian variety, from the Imereti region, made using the traditional technology of aging in qvevri. The wine of the 2012 harvest was bottled in 2014, after a fairly long maceration (30% of the total volume of the pulp was used for aging). Very expressive aroma and taste, with a noticeable astringency, which the wine gives a small amount of tannins, due to the infusion on the pulp. A rich, varied bouquet of spices (cloves, nutmeg), dried flowers and herbs, damp undergrowth, dried apricot, dried orange peel and fresh quince. The taste is surprisingly concentrated, long-lasting and harmonious.
Kisi Qvevri 2018. For the aging of this wine from another autochthonous variety and the Kakheti region, 100% of the pulp was used, which is felt in the taste. If the previous wine from the Tsitska variety was only slightly tart, then the tannins of Kisi are noticeably drier. The aroma and taste of this wine are also bright and rich – apple, apple peel, quince, dried orange peel, dried lemon zest, cumin, caraway, dried ginger. In the long aftertaste, high acidity and richness are felt, but the wine is soft and rounded.
Saperavi 2014. Wine from perhaps the most famous Georgian red variety Saperavi, and the grapes for this cuvée were collected from a single plot. 30% of its volume was aged for 6 months in oak barrels. Aromatic, juicy wine with shades of dried cherries, prunes, fresh black cherries, licorice, undergrowth, mushrooms, black pepper. In taste, the attack is open and soft, with juicy fruity notes. The level of tannins is quite high, moderate (+) finish.
Saperavi Khareba 2018. This wine was aged longer in used oak barrels – 8 months. It is just as aromatic, but with fresher notes of black cherry, black plum, licorice, with a softer tannin structure, medium (+) body, amazing freshness, high acidity and a juicy cherry aftertaste with very pleasant shades of dried thyme and rosemary.
Tavkveri Qvevri 2021. A very rare autochthonous Georgian red variety, of which there are only 60 hectares throughout the country. It was once more widespread, but during the Soviet era it gave way to more productive and easier to grow varieties (Saperavi, Rkatsiteli). The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in qvevri. The aroma is very unusual, soft, slightly milky. Notes of cherry yogurt, rose, peony, blackcurrant, blueberry and dried aromatic herbs are felt. Tannins are quite firm and require additional aging in the bottle, acidity is high and fresh.
Plechistik (also known as Goryun, Cherny Vinny, Letun) is an ancient technical red grape variety native to the Rostov region, where it is grown along the Don River in southwestern Russia. According to another version, Plechistik comes from Dagestan, and it was brought to the Rostov region from Dagestan in the Middle Ages. Plechistik is an indigenous Russian variety and has no common roots with either European or Asian grape varieties. This variety has traditionally been grown in dry regions on clay subsoils on the right bank of the Don.
This is a rather difficult vine to grow:
It produces only female flowers, so it is not capable of self-pollination and requires coplantation with another variety (usually it is Tsimlyansky Cherny, which used to be mistaken for Plechistik)
Does not tolerate drought well
It is not resistant to frost and requires to be covered for the winter
Susceptible to fungal diseases (especially mildew); has a thin and fragile skin
Prone to shedding berries
Plechistik has an average ripening period and is not a high-yielding variety.
Traditionally, Plechistik was used only in assemblage with Tsimlyansky Cherny to produce sweet sparkling red wine, but sometimes (albeit very rarely) you can also find dry still red wines from it. The wine from this variety has a rich berry aroma, soft tannins and moderate acidity.
Recently, I tasted such a wine from the Sober Bash winery, which I found in the Vinoteka Solovieva in Chelyabinsk. Sober Bash winery is located in the Kuban region, in the appellation of “Valley of the Afips River”. The vineyards of Plechistik grow on clay iron-rich soils and are oriented to the warm southern and southwestern sides. Alcoholic fermentation took place in steel vats, then the wine was aged for 6 months in French oak barrels.
It must be said that the taste characteristics of this wine differ from the above description due to the terroir of the Afips River Valley. The climate here is temperate continental, with a more pronounced temperature difference than on the coast. And not just off-season. The difference between day and night temperatures is also more pronounced here, because the sea, the water mass that regulates these differences, is further away. Accordingly, the grapes retain a higher level of acidity and acquire a fresh berry bouquet.
Color: medium intensity, ruby Aroma: medium (+) intensity, with a rich bouquet of berries. The bouquet has pronounced aromas of sour red berries (red cherry, cranberry, lingonberry), with noticeable but delicate notes of dried herbs (thyme, bay leaf), white pepper and licorice. Taste: expressive, juicy. Sour lingonberries, cranberries and cherries are softened by sweet strawberries. Tannins are medium, soft and velvety, the body is medium, but the acidity is quite noticeable, medium (+), even high. The aftertaste is average (+), slightly peppery. Overall impression and quality assessment: very good wine with a pleasant berry bouquet and soft tannins. Harmonious and pleasant to drink, moderately complex With what and when to drink: A good option for Saturday dinner is a rare steak or duck breast. It is preferable that the meat has a fine texture that suits velvety tannins. As a sauce, you can choose unsweetened lingonberry sauce or a red wine sauce.
Quality assessment according to the BLICE :
Balance: a pleasant wine with a juicy bouquet, round tannins and acidity that is harmoniously refreshing on the organoleptic profile. Length: quite long, spicy Intensity: aromatic wine with bright taste characteristics Complexity: the bouquet contains various berry and spicy notes, as well as secondary woody Expression: I cannot say how accurately this wine reflects the characteristics of a rare Russian autochthon, but this tasting was very interesting.
A month before the long-awaited holidays, many of us are already thinking about what Champagne to choose for the New Year. Classic cuvée, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs, pink, vintage, champagne from a famous House or winemaker – Champagne des Vignerons… The choice can be quite large, and the price categories are extensive. The food you have prepared for champagne may require one type of beverage, and the guests’ preferences may require another, but in any case, the wine should be exceptional. My selection of sparkling wines in this article is premium cuvées from Champagne Houses in an expensive price category, which will not only be an impressive decoration for the holiday, but also an exceptional gift for a connoisseur and admirer of sparkling wine.
Dom Pérignon 2012
This premium cuvée from the House of Moët & Chandon has a surprisingly pure, piercing and memorable style. Dom Pérignon is always a vintage champagne, which is released only if the weather conditions of the vintage promiss an exceptional result. The aging on the lees lasts much longer than required by the appellation criteria (7-9 years, 8 years for the 2012 vintage), and the blend includes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir 17 Grand Cru in proportions that vary depending on the success of the vintage for one or the other variety (51% Chardonnay and 49% Pinot Noir for the 2012 vintage). The dosage in Dom Pérignon is low – 5 g / l, which perfectly emphasizes the elegance of the champagne. Dom Pérignon has a recognizable bright minerality, freshness and finesse. The first and perhaps most expressive aroma is precisely the minerality, even slightly chalky hint, which is complemented by elegant notes of acacia flowers and fresh citrus tones of fresh lemon, lemon zest, yuzu juice and grapefruit. In taste, Dom Perignon has the same bright minerality, elegant acidity and an exceptionally long aftertaste, which also reveals unusual spicy notes of Timut pepper.
Krug 170ème édition
Another recognizable cuvée, but with a completely opposite style. Where Dom Perignon’s style is mineral, with a profile built around its structured acidity, Krug’s style is depth and richness. Unlike Dom Perignon, Krug’s Grand Cuvée is not a vintage champagne. It is a complex composition of three champagne varieties from 190 plots and dozens of reserve wines. The 170th edition uses a palette of reserve wines from 1998 to 2014 and 7 years of aging on lees.
The aroma register is ripe citrus (lemon, red orange), white flowers, candied fruit, pastry (toasted brioche), lemon cream, spices (white pepper, vanilla), with high refreshing acidity and a very long finish. An elegant combination of freshness and depth.
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2014
The vintage prestige cuvée of the Perrier-Jouët House is an exceptional reflection of the style of the House and its complex blend. It is composed of three main varieties of Champagne – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, but the base wines from them are selected so that they are close in characteristics to Chardonnay. The profile of the champagne is elegant and floral (linden, peony), with delicate and fresh hints of citrus and stone fruits (white and wine peach). The finish is long and slightly spicy.
Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne 2002 Grand Cru Brut Nature
Another exceptional cuvée that reflects the uniqueness of the Champagne terroir. The blend includes 95% Chardonnay from exceptional Grand Cru sites, complemented by 5% Pinot Noir. A quarter of the base wines are aged in barrels that matured Château d’Yquem, giving the wine an elegant spiciness that complements the fine acidity and airy floral bouquet.
Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Brut Rosé 2009
A surprising and special champagne. Rosé non-vintage cuvées are usually not intended for long maturation, and vintage ones are released less often than white champagne and require unrivaled experience in vinification. Therefore, the price range for such champagnes is higher, but it justifies itself. This cuvée consists of 55% Pinot Noir in the base wines and 10% in the added red. The rest of the blend is Chardonnay from the Grand Cru vineyards. Aging on lees and in the cellar is as much as 11 years. This composition creates a superb harmony of tertiary (honey, wax, dried rose) and vibrant primary aromas (peony, fresh rose, strawberry) with a long spicy finish (clove, nutmeg).
Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle, Itération 25
Unlike many premium cuvées from other Champagne Houses, Laurent-Perrier creates his Grand Siècle from three of the finest vintages in Champagne, which are selected to recreate the ideal vintage. But not only the best years are selected, but also the best plots – Grand Cru for Chardonnay and the most favorable ones for Pinot Noir. The aging on the lees is also very long – 12 years. The result really absorbs all the best – very fine and elegant sparkle, high acidity, a long fresh finish, ripeness of fruit, spiciness of spices and a slightly confectionery note of aging in barrels (brioche, custard).
Autumn is a very generous season. Since September, we have been seeing new apples and pears, nutritious vegetables like pumpkin, potatoes, or other lesser-known root vegetables, not to mention the grape harvest. But mushrooms deserve special attention – a very special product with unique characteristics.
There are many types of mushrooms, from inexpensive champignons, which are grown artificially and do not disappear from store shelves all year round, to rare and valuable porcini mushrooms. At the same time, mushrooms can be the main element of a dish, a side dish, or part of a recipe. Moreover, other components of the recipe, except for mushrooms, can significantly affect the choice of the type of wine. In this article, we will figure out how to choose a wine for different mushrooms depending on the recipe, list some snacks with mushrooms and wines that go with them, and leave the elite truffle for a separate article.
Taste and texture of mushrooms
Different types of mushrooms have completely different tastes, so it is very difficult to choose one universal drink that will go equally well with all types of mushrooms. In addition to the taste of the mushrooms, you should consider the expressiveness of the latter, as well as the texture of the product. The following types of mushrooms are most often used in gastronomy:
Champignons
Chanterelles (there are several varieties, for example, the yellow chanterelle, as well as the gray, yellowing, black)
Let’s consider their characteristics and wines that will go well with them.
Champignons (Champignons de Paris)
Taste: raw champignons have a subtle woody, slightly earthy taste. But after heat treatment, and depending on its type, the relatively neutral taste characteristics of these mushrooms change. Neutral processing – boiling – enhances the woody taste and the so-called umami taste, and frying, where in addition to heat, champignons are supplemented with butter, salt, pepper, sometimes parsley and garlic, gives the product such components as fat content, light nutty and caramel hints, pepperiness. Texture: slightly elastic, medium density How to choose wine: in general, champignons are quite wine-friendly, as their taste does not have the bitterness of other mushrooms. Therefore, the heat treatment of the mushrooms themselves should be taken into account, as well as the tastes of other components of the dish (herbs, spices, sauce, possibly meat), which often turn out to be decisive in the choice of drink:
For raw or cooked champignons, you should choose a young white wine with a medium body, a rounded texture, but not with excessive acidity, so as not to interrupt the delicate taste of the mushrooms.
For fried champignons, non-oaked (or with short aging in oak) white wines with lies aging are suitable, which will emphasize the nutty and creamy hints of fried mushrooms.
Avoid tart or barrel-aged red wines, since the tannins of grapes and wood do not get along with the taste of umami. Therefore, if you are a red wine lover, pay attention to young light, non-tannic fruit wines, or to aged wines in which the tannins have softened.
If champignons are included in the dish as an additional element (for example, boeuf bourguignon, eggs meurette, kulebyaka, mushroom pie), then when choosing a wine, you should start from the main elements of the recipe.
Examples:
For raw mushrooms – sparkling from Champagne, Italian Franciacorta, Cremant from Burgundy or the Loire Valley. Rounded, moderately acidic white wines from the Rhone Valley based on Marsanne and Roussanne varieties (Saint-Peret, Saint-Joseph), Italian Pecorino from Apulia are also quite suitable.
For white meat in mushroom sauce made from champignons, for mushroom pies – Chablis Premier Cru, Burgundy Haute-Côtes-de-Beaune, Beaune with a medium body and fresh acidity, which will balance the fat content of the cream. Spanish white Rioja or French Graves from the Bordeaux region will also be a harmonious addition to such a dish – with sufficient body so as not to get lost behind the meat and acidity to “lighten” the fat content of the cream.
For a dish in a sauce based on red wines (beef bourguignon, eggs meurette) – based on the locality principle, Burgundy communal names (Volnay, Santenay, Savigny-les-Beaune) with moderate tannic structure and a bright berry bouquet are suitable, juicy Beaujolais Village – a local combination with eggs meurette. In addition, Bordeaux wines with a dominant Merlot in the blend (Côtes de Castillon, Saint-Emilion, Graves).
Brown champignons (Champignons Bruns)
Taste: similar to common champignons (woody and earthy), but more pronounced Texture: slightly denser than common champignons How to choose a wine: brown champignons are suitable for wines of a similar profile to common champignons. But their aroma may be more pronounced, and the texture – more intense Examples: in addition to the previous list of wines, you can add white Pessac-Léognan (for noble white fish in a creamy mushroom sauce, risotto with mushrooms), white wines of the south of France (Fougères, Corbières, Minervois).
Taste: delicate, with fruity (especially apricot) and nutty tones Texture: medium density, depending on the size and subspecies of chanterelles, it can be more or less compact How to choose wine: the main criterion is the special, rather bright, fruity-nutty taste of chanterelles. I would advise choosing wine based on the principle of matching the bouquet and expressiveness of tastes. Similar shades are found in white wines with moderate aging in barrels after several years of maturation in the bottle. Examples:
White Viognier from the Rhone Valley (from Condrieu appellation) or from Languedoc with expressive aromas of stone fruits (apricot, peach), flowers and sufficient, but not too high acidity.
Chardonnay from the warm climate of the New World, but not too barrel-aged (examples can be found in Australia – Margaret River, Adelaide Hills).
White Beaujolais (Chardonnay).
Mâcon from Burgundy.
Trumpet Chanterelle
Taste: similar to the taste of real chanterelles, but with a smoky and earthy hint Texture: more elastic and dense than common chanterelles, with hollow stem How to choose a wine: With these less fruity chanterelles, you can move away from traditional whites and try red varieties, guided by the principle of matching the bouquet. Earthy tones are found in aged Bordeaux, especially those based on Merlot. But here you should avoid excessive tannic structure, limiting the choice to a wine from the right bank. Examples:
Saint-Emilion and satellites – with 7-10 years of aging in the bottle.
Fronsac – 5-7 years of aging.
A ten-year-old Chinon from the Loire Valley (single-variety Cabernet Franc) will also be an interesting option.
Porcini mushrooms, or Italian porcini
Taste: noble, expressive earthy shade of undergrowth and hazelnuts. The taste of young porcini mushrooms is subtle, with age it intensifies, but becomes less delicate Texture: young porcini mushrooms have a dense, fleshy texture, which becomes crumbly as the mushroom grows How to choose a wine: you should be guided by the fleshiness of these mushrooms and the hint of undergrowth in their taste, as well as the ingredients that accompany them (meat, fish, seafood, cream …) Examples:
For the Bordeaux classic – rare meat served with fried porcini mushrooms with garlic and parsley – an aged Bordeaux with a dominant Merlot in the blend. You can experiment with aged Medoc based on Cabernet Sauvignon from the left bank, if it has already developed tertiary nuances and the tannins have become more delicate.
Super Tuscan – Italian wines from Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) are similar in style to their French version, but they have more ripe fruity than non-fruity (floral, herbal) aromas. This is also a good option for fleshy porcini mushrooms and juicy meat.
Barbaresco, Valpolicella Classico – predominantly fruity bouquet, moderate tannins and good acidity – a friendly ensemble with dishes, especially with simple recipes, such as pasta or pizza with porcini mushrooms
Wines of the south and center of Italy (Lazio, Greco di Tufo, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Gesi).
Serious barrel Chardonnays of Burgundy (Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet) or the New World (American Carneros).
White barrel Bordeaux from Pessac-Léognan – rich and deep, these white wines will perfectly emphasize the unique taste of porcini mushrooms. Moreover, this will also be a local combination.
Taste: unusual, bright, but at the same time – subtle, combines hints of hazelnuts, smoked meat and raw meat Texture: spongy, elastic How to choose wine: in order not to create competition between the tastes of the wine and the dish with morels, without erasing its organoleptic profile, you should pay attention to a wine with medium aroma and velvety tannins of medium level. In my opinion, for morels, including in dishes, a white with a medium-medium (+) body and oily texture is better suited. This option will not emphasize the bitterness of the mushrooms and will not be inferior to it in aroma. Examples:
Fried morels, morel risotto – aromatic white barrel Burgundy (Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet) and Bordeaux (Pessac-Léognan) white wines would be quite appropriate here. But since the main element of these dishes is morels, then red wines are also suitable as a pairing, especially if they have a similar smoked note (red wines of the Rhone Valley – Gigondas, Vacqueyras, red Burgundy – aged Pommard, New Saint Georges) or a rich, but moderate fruity bouquet (Pinot Noir from American Oregon or New Zealand Marlborough).
Morels with Asparagus – aromatic and rich Grüner Veltliner from the eastern part of wine-growing Austria (for example, the eastern part of the Wachau Valley), Riesling from the Rheingau, Viognier from the northern Rhone Valley – here it is better to stop at non-asparagus, expressive fruity white wines due to the presence of asparagus, which does not get along with red wines due to its bitterness and ability to make the tannins of red wines unpleasant – dry and bitter. For the same reason, it is better to avoid barrel white wines in this combination, which have not grape, but oak tannins.
Chicken in morel sauce and vin jeune de Jura is a classic of French cuisine and pairings with morels. In this case, a white wine from the Jura region will be more than appropriate – the same oxidative vin jeune de Jura, which is part of the sauce. It must be admitted that this wine is not for everyone, so in the same region you can find an alternative – a slightly oxidative Chardonnay or wine from a local of the Savagnin variety. Or you can choose an aged white Pessac-Léognan, whose bouquet is also distinguished by oxidative shades of wax, honey, dried flowers and fruits.
Grapevine yellows (Flavescence dorée) – a phylloxera of the 21st century?
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For sure, the most famous turning point for European winemaking in the late 19th and early 20th century was the phylloxera epidemic. In France, this small insect, brought from the USA, almost completely destroyed the vineyards, provoking a social crisis after an enormous “winemaking” crisis. Wine production volumes fell sharply, winemakers had nothing to sell, and the missing amount of French wine was completed by Spanish or Algerian (but, of course, without any indication on the label). However, despite the fact that the destruction of vineyards by insects allowed to rethink the principles of viticulture, giving a start to important researches in this area, the phylloxera crisis will remain a tragic event for the European viticulture.
It would seem that American varieties as a rootstock and the use of chemicals in the treatment of vineyards could solve many problems and save vines from subsequent epidemics. However, some diseases manifest themselves and spread in a rather obscure way, and winemakers seek to reduce the use of chemicals on their vineyards in order to respect the environment. In addition, some problems are not well understood to find a long-term effective solution, such as using American vines as rootstock to make European vines immune to phylloxera.
One such example is grapevine yellows (flavescence dorée), which appeared on the European continent in the 1920s and has been rapidly spreading, in particular, in the vineyards of Bordeaux since 2010.
What is grapevine yellows?
This is not yet fully understood dangerous disease of plants (in particular, vines), which is quite difficult to detect and contain. It can cause whole epidemics in the vineyards, or it can manifest itself to a greater or lesser extent from year to year.
The disease is caused by microscopic organism – phytoplasma (or mycoplasma). It is somewhat similar to bacteria, but it has no cell wall. Phytoplasma can be parasitic and cause plant and even human diseases (for example, SARS). In vines, phytoplasmas cause diseases of the conductive tissue – phloem – responsible for transporting products of photosynthesis to parts of plants where this process does not occur (underground parts, flowers).
Grapevine yellows is transferred in two ways:
In nurseries – transmission can occur between rootstock and scion, when grafting a cutting.
Insects – leafhoppers Scaphoideus titanus, which feed on vine sap and can transfer phytoplasmas from an infected plant to a healthy one.
Tools when working in the vineyard (for example, when pruning first infected vines, then healthy ones).
Leafhoppers are responsible for the rapid and large-scale infection of neighboring areas, but young plants infected in nurseries or poorly cleaned tools are responsible for the spread of the disease over long distances.
The primary source of the disease was leafhoppers imported from North America along with specimens of American vines. They were intended to become rootstocks for European vines and save Old World vineyards from phylloxera. (The latter, in turn, was also brought from the United States by winemakers who wanted to make wines from American grapes). So, wanting to solve one problem, European winemakers faced another one, perhaps even more detrimental to vineyards.
Infected vine of red grape variety
How does phytoplasma infection occur and how does it affect vines?
Phytoplasma (also called ” mycoplasma “) is a parasitic microorganism that is not able to exist on its own. To survive and spread, it needs a vector – leafhoppers – and a host – a plant, for example, a vine.
Leafhoppers feed on vine sap, “picking up” phytoplasma from an infected plant. These microorganisms do not have a detrimental effect on the insects themselves, but as soon as the infected leafhopper flies to feed on a healthy plant, it will transmit the parasite to it.
Once in the juice, the phytoplasma spreads throughout the plant, infecting the cells of the phloem, a sap-carrying channel rich in carbohydrates. Thus, mycoplasma forces the plant to use all its strength to grow foliage, while blocking the transport of photosynthesis products to those organs that are not intended for this process and are responsible for other functions. And these are the roots that serve to extract moisture and minerals from the soil, flowers intended for plant propagation, fruits …. It turns out that mycoplasma completely subjugates the plant, which is no longer able to feed itself properly or reproduce itself. Since the transfer of photosynthetic products – carbohydrates – by juice is difficult, they remain in the leaves of plants, making them more attractive to phytoplasma vectors – leafhoppers. It turns out that each infected plant becomes a source of grapevine yellows.
Young vines most often die after infection, while more hardy vines weaken, becoming unproductive and economically unprofitable. In addition, if a vine survive, it will never recover from the disease.
The outcome of the disease depends on the variety, because some of them resist better, and some die rather quickly. The severity of symptoms also varies depending on the variety, but the following signs of infection are always present to one degree or another:
At the beginning of the cycle – late, compared with healthy vines, budbreak and slow growth of shoots.
Then the shoots stop growing, and the leaves turn yellow (for white varieties) or redden (for red ones), curl downwards and harden a little.
If the shoot gave inflorescences, then they dry up, because. their development is not supported by the plant.
If the inflorescence reached pollination and turned into a small bunch, then the berries will acquire a bitter taste, and then partially or completely shrivel.
At the end of the season, the shoots themselves become sluggish, bend easily and do not harden in august (in French terminology, this phenomenon is called “aoûtement”)
Leaves on vines of red varieties become red
Leaves on vines of white varieties (here – on Sémillion) become yellow and curl downwards
Dried inflorescence
Shoots on the infected vine remain green untill August, they are not subject of the “aoûtement” phenomenon, do not harden and remain “sluggish”
A bunch, which have stopped ripening on an infected vine
A shriveled bunch on an infected grape
Infected vines are less productive
What are the ways to combat grapevine yellows?
Monitoring the spread of the disease and containing it is not an easy task. The first symptoms appear on the vine only a year later, but the plant is already infected and represents a danger to the entire vineyard. In addition, it may be present near the vineyard or directly on the site if the American rootstock has sprouted or grown nearby as a wild vine. However, American varieties do not show symptoms after infection, so in this case it is impossible to accurately determine whether the vineyard is healthy, even if all plants look healthy.
To date, there is no cure for grapevine yellows. It is only possible to prevent its spread by:
Treatment of dormant young plants still in nurseries by immersion in hot water (50°C), which will kill mycoplasma and some other parasites.
Timely and regular monitoring of vineyards and grubbing out of infected vines to prevent outbreaks of the epidemic.
Insecticide treatment to reduce leafhopper populations.
Reducing the amount of plant foliage with pruning.
The first method is the most easily applicable, practical and environmentally friendly, but unfortunately, not all nurseries resort to it. The last two are much less effective, especially if the site is surrounded by other vegetation (forest, fruit trees) or by abandoned vineyards. Moreover, chemical treatment is unacceptable in an organic or biodynamic vineyards.
The second method is more difficult and longer to apply, but over time it can lead to a complete recovery of the vineyard, or at least to the containment of the disease.
In France, at the local, regional and national level, there are projects to combat grapevine yellows:
FREDON is a syndicate that unites land owners (vineyards, fruit groves, vegetable fields…) who want to monitor the health of their plantings and fight against plant diseases. In particular, one of FREDON’s missions is to monitor the spread of grapevine yellows and prevent it.
GDON (Groupement de Défense contre les Organismes Nuisibles de la vigne, Vineyard Pest Protection Group) is an organization operating in France’s largest protected appellation vineyard. Its purpose is to monitor leafhopper populations, promote their reduction, as well as monitor the spread of grapevine yellows and look for infected vines to destroy them. Thus, GDON seeks to eradicate the disease by simultaneously destruction of its source (infected vines) and its vector (leafhoppers) with minimal use of insecticides.
Government programs to uproot infected vines
Vines, marked by GDON
In general, these programs and organizations annually observe the vineyards where the presence of the disease has been clearly indicated or suspected, noting diseased vines that need to be grabbed out. Then it is the turn of the winemaker to destroy these vines, and officially, if he does not, he faces significant fines. However, not all winemakers are ready to grab out a part of their plantings for various reasons:
The vines are still bearing fruit somehow
The winemaker invests significant sums of money to prevent contamination of his plots, but his neighbors do not do this or the nearby plots are abandoned, which contributes to the constant reinfection of the responsible owner
Very old vines are valuable to the family as they were planted by parents or grandparents
Will grapevine yellows be the phylloxera of the 21st century? With the development of modern science and technology, we can hope that an effective solution to the new dangerous problem for European vineyards will be found much faster than was the case with phylloxera.
It is one thing to choose and buy a wine cellar, but to fill it is a rather different task. To select wines you can focus on:
the function of your wine cellar – if it is destinated for serving, storing or maturing wine
on the purpose of the purchase – investment in legendary wines
you wish to always have some wines ready to serve in ideal conditions
But I can also advise you to make your wine collection lively and diverse, like the world of wine itself. Indeed, sometimes, while traveling through the wine region, by chance and unexpectedly you can arrive into a small family estate with a rich history and excellent wines, spend two or even three hours there, try a lot of wines and leave with several bottles, if not cases of wine. In such a case, free space in the wine cellar will be very useful.
Some of these wines will wait for a special occasion, some – their maturity and the optimal moment for consumption. And others will be shared with pleasure with your guests, accompained by perfect match with food and your impressions of the trip.
In other words, there can be many ideas, but not enough space for them in the wine cellar, so it is important to properly organize your wine collection. For an example, I propose to look into the wine cellar of my parents, whose collection I partially helped to compose.
Wines from my parents cellar
Château de Pommard 2011. Pommard. Bourgogne. France
A memorable wine from a journey in the vineyards of Burgundy. You can’t find this wine on store shelves, you can only order delivery directly from the château, or buy the wine directly there.
Wines of Pommard (one of appellations of Pommard) are distinguished by powerful tannins and a firm body comparing to others burgundian wines. Their particularity is a bit “closed” bouquet and the astringency of tannins when the wines are young. This is due to the fact that Pinot Noir – the only variety allowed in wines of Pommard – grows on clay soils. However, over time, after at least 5 years, their tannins soften and the bouquet opens up, becoming complex and rich. Obviously, this wine was waiting for a special occasion – it was opened in the year of its tenth anniversary to celebrate a wonderful event – the birth of a grandson.
Château de l’Evéque Cuvée Cardinal 2014. Corbières: Languedoc: France
This wine has a special place in the wine cellar of my parents. This is not only a wine, but a souvenir, for which I specially went to sunny Languedoc a few years ago, and which will probably remain a souvenir due to its uniqueness and value. Château de l’Evéque is owned by Pierre Richard, whose films my parents’ generation grew up with. Therefore, I could not leave without the autograph of the actor and winemaker. In the summer, Pierre Richard is sometimes present in person in his château, where he receives visitors and even signs wine labels. It so happened that my journey ended just the day before this traditional meeting, but, fortunately, on the last evening I managed to get a ticket to a small open-air film festival, where Pierre Richard personally presented one of his old films. This film was lost after its release and even forgotten, but Pierre Richard found and restored it especially for the annual film festival. This event takes place in July-August in the small but presious for the heart of the actor city of Gruissan. After the screening, friends and fans of the actor could meet him in a cafe located on the banks of the salt marsh of Gruissan, where the screening took place. So I got an autograph on the label and a photo with Pierre Richard, which became a unique and the most presious gift for my parents for the New Year, that I ever made.
Champagne Ruinart
What is a wine collection without champagne? And not just any, but from the very first Champagne House of founded in the region – Ruinart. House Ruinart has almost 300 years of history (it was founded in 1729) and is one of the finest and delicate champagnes. The classic cuvée of Champagne Ruinart includes all three main Champagne varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with red varieties (the last two) making up more than half of the blend. Reserve wines, i.e. still wines from the part of the harvest that champagne houses save every year to add to the blend of wines of future years, account in Ruinard champagne 20-25%, and play an important role in creating a multifaceted bouquet. Clean, elegant and sophisticated style of this champagne will be the perfect accompaniment to any celebration.
Marchesi di Barolo
Barolois the real treasure of the wine collection, a wine that requires and deserves patience. The Nebbiolo variety from which this wine is made, has dryish tannins and a closed bouquet, so often young Barolo wines seem overly tart, but not rich enough to balance their strong structure (i.e. tannins and high acidity). However, after about 10 years, the tannins will soften, the bouquet will open, and the wine will acquire a harmonious combination of floral, spicy and fruity aromas. The modern style of Barolo is shifting towards a more intense and round fruity character, and such wines can be opened much earlier. Still, this Italian wine remains a classic among the longest-lived wines to have in your collection.
Like many wines in my parents’ collection, this wine came from another trip. It was acquired after a tour of the historic Marchesi di Barolo, which is located in the very center of the settlement of Barolo. In addition, it was the winemakers of Marchesi di Barolo, founded more than 200 years ago, who noticed that the long aging of wine in oak barrels after the end of fermentation makes it possible to soften the astringency to create an amazing beverage, which soon became known as the “King of Wines” and “Wine of Kings”.
Another classic Italian wines that have their place in my parents’ wine cellar are Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. These wines are very pleasant relatively young, but they can also age for about 10 years. Both Brunello and Vino Nobile are one of the best Tuscan wines, which are distinguished by amazing richness, power and rich taste. A wonderful souvenir from Italy, which will also be waiting for the right occasion to decorate the festive table.
Torus. Madiran 2015
Great choice. Wines from the Madiran region, which is located two hours southeast of Bordeaux, are not as famous as their neighbor, but they have even greater aging potential and their place in a wine collection. The Tannat variety, which makes up at least 70% of the blend of Madiran wines, is distinguished by powerful tannins (hence the name), a dense and structured body, high acidity and an opaque color. Such wines can easily withstand 20 or even 30 years of maturation, and even at this age they will keep the depth of their fruity and spicy bouquet, completing it with new aromas and soften their firm tannins.
Sweet wines
If you want to decorate your collection with an old wine without beeing afraid that it will lose its qualities when there will be an occasion a reason to open it, I advise you to pay attention to the sweet wines of the Bordeaux region (Sauternes, Loupiac, Saint-Croix-du-Mont), northwest France (Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, Jurançon) and Hungary (Tokay). These wines are also found in my parents’ wine cabinet: some come from journeys, some from my trips around Bordeaux. But all these wines can be stored not for 20, not 30, but more than 50 years, and even as much as 100. Isn’t it nice to have a century-old bottle of wine in your collection?
Here, for example, Loupiac1962 and 1955 from the Château Le Vieux Moulin. They are still far from their 100th anniversary, but 65 years for a sweet wine is already an impressive age. The most important thing is that further this wine will only continue to develop and acquire more and more amazing bouquet. These wines come from the annual event – open doors in the Château, where you can sometimes find some rare wines, that will be a unique gift for a birthday of a person from the same year of birth as the vintage of the wine.
A funny story is connected with the 1962 wine. Initially, it was supposed to become part of my personal collection, but at some point, for some reason, I decided that the vintage of the wine was not 1962, but 1968. And then I had the idea to make a gift for my dad’s fiftieth birthday in 2018. What was everyone’s surprise when, having opened the package, he discovered that I decided to “age” my dad for 6 years 🙂 Next time I will check my personnal wine cellar in advance before choosing gifts from it 🙂
Château Haura 2010, from Cérons, an appellation neighboring famous Sauternes, is a good choice for both the year and the region. The sweet wines of Cérons are as qualitative as wines of Sauternes, and in addition, 2010, together with 2009 and 2011, is among the top three exceptional vintages for sweet Bordeaux wines. By definition, long-lived wines, and even a good year, are a profitable and long-term investment in a wine collection.
I would like also to mention sweet wines not from Bordeaux. The legendary Tokaj was once the decoration of royal meals, and today it occupies a worthy place in the wine cellars of wine connoisseurs. The Furmint variety, which makes up the greatest part of the blend of sweet Tokay wines, has characteristics important for the storage and maturation of wine: high acidity and expressive aromatic characteristics. Together with the high sugar content, which is a natural preservative, these features of Tokay sweet wines allow them to mature and improve for decades. Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh is a appellation for a sweet white wine produced in the same area as the red appellation Madiran. Unfortunatelly, we do not often think of this wine as a wine able to age for years. Varietal wines of the appellation Paschrenc du Vic Bilh made from Petit Manseng grapes are similar in depth and high acidity to Tokay made from Furmint (but, of course, with a different bouquet of aromas) and have a similar aging potential. The original, and, most importantly, the right choice in a wine collection.
What is the secret of my parents’ wine cabinet? Most wines appear in it for a reason. Almost all come from travel and immediately find a use for themselves. Some are waiting for guests with whom it is pleasant to share impressions of the trip with a glass of good wine, some are put in the wine cellar to age, some are “reserved” for a special occasion. And some, like, for example, the wine with the autograph of Pierre Richard, pass into the category of especially valuable souvenirs and, may be, will never be opened.
The organization of a wine cellar for store wines wines for a special occasion or for aging them is one of the possible purposes for which a wine cellar is purchased. Although in accordance with general recommendations, space should be allocated there for simpler, everyday wines that can be opened when unexpected guests arrive. To be honest, my wine cellar mostly serves to age wines or to mature them.
Primeurs 2021 Week in Bordeaux. Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux
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Some of the tastings during the Primeurs Week in Bordeaux offer the opportunity to discover the wines of several appellations of the Bordeaux region and to see that the last vintage was more successful for some and more difficult for others.
Some words about Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux
The Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux is an association of 124 châteaux from the 26 Bordeaux appellations that produce fine wines with excellent value for money, located on the left and right banks. The core values of this dynamic association of wineries are to represent the diversity and richness of the Bordeaux vineyards and to produce wines that express the terroir of the region.
The history of the association began in 2002, with the creation of the Groupe Rive Droite de Grands Vins de Bordeaux (a group of châteaux on the Right Bank only). The Groupe Rive Gauche – Cercle Rive Gauche de Grands Vins de Bordeaux, joined it in 2013 (a group of châteaux on the Left Bank only). And in 2017, the two groups merged to form the Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux, under the common values of Creativity, Quality and Pleasure.
The Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux has the following objectives:
To encourage the development and recognition of châteaux-members through promotions and information campaigns.
To promote the marketing of wines through contacts with international wine professionals.
To organise events for wine professionals to familiarise them with the diversity and richness of Bordeaux wines.
Supporting member châteaux in their new projects.
Cooperating with the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bordeaux (CIVB) to promote the region’s wines abroad.
And the member châteaux undertake to respect the following common values:
Enhancing the history of the region, which unites them
Authenticity: Each winemaker produces the wine that represents him, works in the vineyard and in the cellar, and markets his wines with love.
Ethics in production and marketing – the châteaux are creative, innovative and dynamic
Respect to their terroir. The winemakers maintain the ecosystem of their vineyards.
Quality – Châteaux become members of the association after a visit by the commission and a blind wine Tasting. The quality of the wines is then re-evaluated each year.
Hospitality – professionals and wine lovers are always welcome in the châteaux by their owners
The Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux in figures :
124 châteaux
26 Bordeaux appellations
2861 hectares of vineyards
95% of the châteaux are involved in technologies that protect the environment
78% of châteaux are open to the public
Some photos of Château Montlabert, where the tasting was organised this year
Tasting notes
Bordeaux Supérieur and Bordeaux Blanc
White wines – Bordeaux Blanc
Red wines of AOP Bordeaux and Graves
Château Fleur Haut Gaussens, White Blend: 100% Sauvignon Blanc Tasting: aromatic and expressive, with citrus notes (ripe lemon, lemon peel), the palate is dense, with a delicate bitterness and a long floral finish.
Château Penin, White Blend: 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris, 20% Semillon. Tasting: An unusual organoleptic profile for a white Bordeaux. The bouquet is mainly citrus, ripe and slightly sweet (the wine itself is dry), with notes of lemon, lemon peel, candied fruit, lemon cream and orange. Medium acidity (+) and a grapefruit bitterness in the lingering finish refresh and balance the wine’s profile.
Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Château Côte Montpezat White : Bordeaux Blanc Blend : 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sauvignon Gri, 30% Sémillon. Tasting: A very aromatic wine, with notes of wild flowers, stone fruits and citrus zest. At the same time, it is acidic, fresh and energetic.
Fronsac
Red wines of Fronsac
Château Fontenil Blend : 100% Merlot. Tasting: A full-bodied wine with a rich bouquet, typical of Merlot (black cherry, black plum, mint), it has supple tannins and an excellent concentration.
Château de La Huste Blend : 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Tasting: reserved and closed bouquet, but with the elegance and freshness typical of Merlot 2021. The tannins are firm but integrated, with a long finish.
Château Moulin Haut-Laroque Blend: 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec. Tasting: a supple, ripe wine with a lively, fruity attack (black and red cherries, plums, wild flowers). The finish is fresh and the acidity is high, the tannins are dry but well integrated. The wine has excellent ageing potential.
Château de La Rivière White (Bordeaux Blanc): Blend: 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 33% Sauvignon Gris Tasting: An expressive wine with typical Sauvignon citrus notes and high acidity. The Sauvignon Gris adds a rich, even slightly oily texture, a lingering finish and aromas of white flowers and tropical fruit.
Red : Blend: 84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Malbec Tasting: Complex bouquet, combining typical aromas of the four grape varieties of the Blend and the barrel ageing (red and black fruits, black plum, flowers – peony, violet, mint and liquorice). The finish is long and elegant, with lively acidity and firm, structured tannins.
Château La Vielle Cure Blend: 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting: a wine with high acidity and interesting minerality, but at the same time – rich and pleasantly fruity. Moderate tannins and good ageing potential.
Canon-Fronsac
Château Moulin Pey-Labrie Blend: 95% Merlot, 5% Malbec Tasting: The wine reflects the limestone soils of the Canon-Fronsac appellation – refined, with high acidity and pronounced minerality, spicy and tart red fruit aromas. The tannins are medium but firm and persistent.
Pomerol
Red wines of Pomerol
Château Bourgneuf Blend : 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Tasting :Typical Pomerol aromas of plum and cherry, with hints of barrel ageing – caramel and coffee. Deep flavours, powerful tannins with a delicate texture – excellent ageing potential.
Château La Clémence Blend : 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. Tasting: an aromatic wine with fruity nuances typical of Merlot (black cherry, black plum, mint) and delicate barrel notes (toast, coffee). This wine has refined tannins and a velvety texture – it will probably take less time than other Pomerols 2021s to become smooth and drinkable.
Château La Commanderie Blend: 83% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc Tasting: Expressive bouquet with lively, fruity aromas and marked woody notes. On the palate, it is more reserved, with notes of tart red fruit and a fresh, acidic finish. It is quite possible that the wine will open up with time.
Château Feytit-Clinet Blend: 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Tasting: Elegant organoleptic profile with juicy red fruit, floral and spicy notes, an enveloping texture and delicate tannins. Compared to the other Pomerols in this Tasting, this wine seems softer. Good concentration, medium (+)acidity and excellent ageing potential.
Château Maillet Blend : 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Tasting: Pomerol with a simple profile, high acidity, structured tannins and a bouquet of tart red fruits. The texture and body are reserved rather than full, but there is a pleasant freshness and bitterness on the finish.
Château Mazeyres Blend: 73% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. Tasting: Unusual for Pomerol, the lower than average percentage of Merlot in the Blend and a small amount of Petit Verdot give this wine a complex and concentrated bouquet, with hints of black fruits (black cherry and plum), spices (liquorice, white pepper) and flowers (violet, peony). The taste is more delicate, but with an excellent structure of fine-grained tannins and a long finish with bitterness and smoky notes.
Château Taillefer Blend: 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. Tasting: The nose reveals lively and balanced primary aromas (plum, black cherry, violet) and secondary aromas (liquorice, vanilla). The tannins are a little astringent and the taste is more restrained, but the finish is quite long and the acidity is excellent.
Château Vieux Maillet Blend: 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting: closed aromas with classic nuances of the appellation and the vintage (dark red fruit and acidity). The palate lacks a little concentration to balance the acidity, but the finish is quite persistent. Nevertheless, this wine has a future.
Château Vieux Taillefer Blend: 100% Merlot. Tasting: a pleasant and subtle profile with fruit and spice notes, fine-grained tannins, fresh acidity and a persistent finish.
Lalande de Pomerol
Red wines of Lalande de Pomerol
Château de Chambrun Blend: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting: Overall, a classic, balanced profile with typical Merlot notes (black and red cherry, plum), but with a slightly dry finish.
Château Jean de Gué Blend : 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting: fruity and woody bouquet (toasted and smoky notes), aromatic, medium body and fine-grained tannins.
Château Tournefeuille Blend : 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. Tasting : Elegant wine with a complex bouquet (fruits, flowers and spices) and powerful tannins. The finish is concentrated and energetic. Excellent wine.
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
Red wines of Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Château La Croizille Blend : 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc Tasting : The body is quite dense compared to the other Saint-Emilion Grand Cru of the Tasting. The bouquet is distinguished by its ripeness and concentration of red fruits, complemented by spices and woody notes. An overall balanced and rich profile.
Clos Dubreuil Blend : 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting : Harmonious combination of ripe bouquet, woody and smoky notes and fresh acidity. Fine and integrated tannins, long and slightly spicy finish with high acidity.
Château La Grâce Fonrazade White (White Bordeaux): Blend: 100% Sauvignon Gris Tasting: A very unusual white Bordeaux with a golden colour of medium intensity (atypical for young wines), a buttery texture and a hint of sweetness in the bouquet (the wine itself is dry), rich in tropical fruits (lychee, pineapple). Compared to other white wines based on Sauvignon Blanc or its Blend with Semillon and Muscadelle, its acidity is lower (rather medium). Its finish is expressive and persistent. Red: Blend : 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc Tasting: A balanced wine with a lively bouquet of tart red fruits, medium body, moderate tannins and high acidity. Refined and classic style
Lynsolence Blend: 100% Merlot. Tasting: fresh profile, with a bouquet of tart red fruits (raspberries, red cherries, red currants), but the tannins are too young, rather dry and astringent.
Château Montlabert Blend : 72% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc Tasting : Ripe fruit aromas (black cherry, black plum, red currant). The taste is expressive and predominantly fruity, with firm tannins that are softened by a full body.
Château Pas de l’Ane Blend: 72% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc. Tasting : Pure, fruity bouquet with interesting floral nuances, thanks to the almost one-third share of Cabernet Franc in the Blend. Medium body and high acidity.
Château Patrice Querre Blend: 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Tasting: a ripe Merlot, despite a difficult year for this variety, with its typical notes of black cherry, black plum and even prune, refreshed by mentholated notes. The taste is quite different from the aroma – the acidity is high, the body is medium, which gives the wine freshness and balances its rich bouquet.
Château Rol Valentin Blend : 78% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec. Tasting :Round body, deep and ripe bouquet, pleasant, fine and integrated tannins. Expressive aromas of black and red fruits, spices (cloves, liquorice, pepper).
Château Roylland Blend : 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Tasting :Light and elegant bouquet of red fruits with a high acidity. The finish is fresh and persistent, but a little bit drying, with strong, not yet integrated tannins.
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé
Red wines of Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé
Château Destieux Blend : 66% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting: the attack is fruity and open, but the finish is restrained and acidic, with powerful tannins. Good ageing potential.
Château Fombrauge Blend : 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc Tasting: discreet aromas, but the palate is strong, with a powerful body and noticeable tannins, giving this wine excellent ageing potential.
Château Grand Corbin-Despagne Blend: 75% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting: A bright bouquet with typical characteristics of the three grape varieties (red and black cherry, blackcurrant, floral notes). Powerful body with a long and rich finish with woody and spicy notes. A promising wine
Château La Marzelle Blend: 74% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 9%. Tasting :Pleasant and balanced bouquet with fruity, spicy and woody nuances. Expressive and deep bouquet, but with a dry finish.
Château de Pressac Blend : 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Carmenère, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. Tasting: complex bouquet, with fruity and floral notes, characteristic of the grape variety in the Blend, as well as spicy notes, obtained during barrel ageing. Balanced and full-bodied profile with integrated tannins.
Château Sansonnet Blend : 85% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting: Elegant toast and spice notes with rich fruit flavours. But the tannins and finish are a bit drying.
Château Yon-Figeac Blend : 80% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot. Tasting :Ripe and juicy aromas, balanced taste with medium (+)acidity and fine but powerful tannins.
Montagne Saint-Emilion
Château Messile-Aubert Blend: 65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting: an elegant profile, enveloping flavours and a rich finish with velvety tannins. The bouquet has notes of blackcurrant, unusual for wines of the appellation, combined with black cherry, plum, liquorice and a smoky aroma.
Vieux Château Palon Blend: 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. Tasting: the smoky and spicy notes are the first to appear on the nose, but they are in harmony with the fruity bouquet. The flavours are pleasant, full-bodied and fruity, with dry tannins on the finish.
Lussac Saint-Emilion
Château de Barbe Blanche Blend : 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. Tasting : Typical profile for the Right Bank with notes of red and black cherry, plum, subtle aromas of spices (clove, liquorice) and delicate nuances of barrel ageing.
Château de Lussac White (Bordeaux Blanc) : Blend: 64% Sauvignon Blanc, 23% Sémillon, 13% Sauvignon Gris Tasting: juicy and rich bouquet, but well-balanced, combining notes of stone fruits (peach, apricot) and citrus fruits (lemon, zest). Surprisingly elegant and long finish, with a pleasant bitterness and high acidity. Red: Blend: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc Tasting: supple and refined wine with notes of ripe red fruit (red plum, red cherry). Excellent development potential
Château La Rose Perriére White (Bordeaux Blanc) : Blend: 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon, 5% Muscadelle Tasting: expressive, buttery texture, tropical fruit notes, high acidity, and a long finish with a pleasant bitterness.
Red: Blend: 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Malbec Tasting: pronounced oak notes, but the fruit notes in the bouquet are also lively. The acidity is particularly noticeable on the dry finish.
Médoc et Haut-Médoc
Château Loudenne White (Bordeaux Blanc): Blend: 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon. Tasting: typical Sauvignon Blanc notes – with a delicate herbal character and a lively bouquet of citrus, peach and passion fruit. An energetic wine with high acidity. Red: Blend: 49% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% – Petit Verdot Tasting: the bouquet reveals the freshness of tart red fruits, the body is medium, the tannins are moderate and integrated.
Château d’Arcins Blend : 59% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot. Tasting: full-bodied, fruity, spicy, a little bitter, with high acidity and a persistent finish.
Château Lanessan Blend : 52% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc Tasting: red and black cherry, red plum – a ripe bouquet with pleasant acidity, soft spiciness and a lingering finish.
Château Lestage Simon Blend: 80% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot. Tasting: Floral notes are lively on the palate and on the nose, which then develop into fruit and spice notes. The finish is long, but with dry tannins.
Château Malescasse Blend: 49% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. Tasting: Elegant bouquet of flowers and fruit, supple and fine tannins, good concentration and persistence in the mouth.
Château de Villegeorge Blend : 28% Merlot, 67.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4.4% Petit Verdot. Tasting: Elegant wine with a bouquet of red fruits, with hints of liquorice and pronounced tannins.
Château Cap Léon Veyrin Blend : 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. Tasting: the bouquet shows red and black fruits, sweet spices and high acidity. Pleasant and classic
Margaux
Château Le Coteau Blend: 25% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot. Tasting: the bouquet with notes of ripe red fruits, spices and woody notes. The tannins are supple and integrated, but the wine profile is full-bodied and rich.
Château Haut-Breton Lagaudire Blend: 20% Merlot, 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. Tasting: expressive aromas of blackcurrant and ripe red fruit, a full-bodied wine with pronounced but integrated tannins.
Château La Tour de Bessan Blend: undefined Tasting: remarkably fruity aromas with characteristic liquorice notes. The bouquet on the palate is simple and closed for the moment
Moulis-en-Médoc
Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux Blend : 43% Merlot, 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc Tasting : Subtle bouquet with acidity of red fruits, accentuated by hints of menthol and oak notes.
Graves
Château Brondelle White: Blend : Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon. Tasting: a full-bodied wine with a medium/medium body (+) and a round and buttery texture. The bouquet is predominantly citrus, but very varied (lemon, lemon peel, candied fruit, red orange). At the same time, the wine has a long finish and medium acidity (+), with a slight bitterness, which balances the richness of the wine.
Red: Blend: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot. Tasting: A well-balanced classic Bordeaux, with a bouquet of tart red fruits, fine woody notes (toasted, smoky), medium body and fine-grained tannins. Excellent structure and persistent finish.
Château de Cérons White: Blend : 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Sémillon, 10% Sauvignon Gris Tasting : Ripe profile, with juicy stone fruit notes (apricot, peach) and lively but harmonious oak nuances (vanilla). The body is round and enveloping, but a medium acidity (+) and a grapefruit bitterness counterbalance the richness of the bouquet.
Red: Blend: 45% Merlot, 55% Cabernet Sauvignon Tasting: subtle profile with a bouquet of red fruits and woody nuances, the body is medium and the tannins are pleasant, not drying
Château Crabitey Red: Blend : 48% Merlot, 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot Tasting: The wine is characterised by a deep colour and a rich, ripe, varied bouquet with fresh red fruit (red and black cherries, strawberries). At the same time, the wine has a firm tannic structure, is quite acidic and slightly dry on the finish.
Clos Floridène White: Blend: 43% Sauvignon Blanc, 56% Semillon, 1% Muscadel. Tasting: a wine with lively and intense aromas, rich flavours (candied fruits, peach, apricot, wild flowers) and high acidity, which refreshes the finish.
Red: Blend: 28% Merlot, 72% Cabernet Sauvignon Tasting: the bouquet shows typical Cabernet Sauvignon notes (blackcurrant, black plum) with harmonious and integrated woody notes (smoke, toast, coffee), a firm tannic structure and a persistent finish. Excellent development potential.
Grand Enclos du Château de Cérons White: Blend : 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon. Tasting: expressive bouquet of ripe stone fruit, citrus and flowers, with a pleasant bitterness and strong acidity.
Red: Blend: 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting: harmonious profile, compared to Château Cérons – more reserved, but more complex and delicate. The tannins are fine, but pronounced.
Château Roquetaillade La Grange White: Blend: 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 60% Semillon, 20% Muscadelle. Tasting: an atypical Blend of 20% Muscadelle (a variety that is rather difficult to cultivate) gives the wine an interesting bouquet with pronounced floral notes (lime blossom, acacia) and an elegant citrus flavour.
Red: Blend: 40% Merlot, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon Tasting: A powerful, yet refined wine with fine tannins, a long finish and a pure fruit bouquet. Excellent ageing potential.
Red wines of Graves
It was also possible to taste other vintages of Château Montlabert
