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Nebbiolo variety, originally from the Italian region of Piedmont, is one of the most ancient and valuable Italian varieties in winemaking. The first mentions of it date back to 1268 and were found in the State Archives of the city of Turin. Moreover, at that time the grapes were not called Nebbiolo, but Nibiol, and in the 13th-14th centuries they were already mentioned under different names in many parts of Piedmont.

The name “Nebbiolo” comes from the Italian “nebbia”, which means “fog”. It is believed that the name of the grape was given precisely by the association with the autumn fog that covers the hills of Piedmont during the harvest of this late variety. But there are other synonyms for this name:

• Prünent (Prunent) – this version is used in the young Piedmont appellation Valli Ossolane (Ossola Valley). There are two versions of its origin. According to the first, “prünent” comes from “pruina”, i.e. “bloom” or “bloom” due to the light whitish cover on the berries. The second theory is that the name comes from the word “prugna”, meaning “plum”, and is associated with the tradition of planting vines together with plum trees;
• Chiavenasca (Chiavenasca) – comes from the name of the town of Chiavenna in the province of Sondrio in Lombardy. This synonym is used in the Valtellina appellation in northern Lombardy;
• Spanna (Spanna) – the name of a clone growing in northern Piedmont, in the Gattinara and Colline Novaresi appellations, near the Piedmontese town of Novara. However, Spanna is not often listed on labels, because Nebbiolo is much better known on the market;
• Picotendro is a synonym for the variety in the highlands of the Aosta Valley (Valle d’Aosta).

Recommended for visiting!
Are you a wine connoisseur and enjoy this drink? Or a professional sommelier and you can hardly be surprised by anything? Or maybe you just live near Bordeaux?

In any case, La Cité du Vin wine museum in Bordeaux is a place that should be visited more than once. It is advisable to walk around the permanent exhibition Le Parcours Permanent 2-3 times if you really want to see everything. Here you can take part in:

• monthly tastings of wines of the world;
• weekly tastings of Bordeaux wines;
• serious seminars and conferences on the topic of alcohol consumption and climate change.

And also meet famous people in the world of wine and attend many other events.
And each semester, in addition to the permanent exhibition, another, temporary exhibition is organized. It is dedicated to wine regions (the last two were the regions of Georgia and the Douro Valley, and in 2019 the exhibition was dedicated to Argentina), the grape varieties grown there, the peculiarities of viticulture and winemaking, as well as the culture of the country itself.

My impressions

My annual subscription includes unlimited entry to the permanent and temporary exhibition. But since wine is a lifelong pursuit and always something new to discover, I decided to go beyond the WSET diploma and head to regions of Argentina that I hadn’t studied in class.

Like all the museum installations, this temporary exhibition was very informative. Lots of illustrations and models of climate, landscape, soils, grape varieties, maps of wine regions, and even local food and costumes!

You could even get acquainted with the characteristic aromas of Malbec, a variety that has become a symbol of Argentine winemaking.

The historical facts are no less interesting here. For example, I discovered that it was thanks to Eleanor of Aquitaine, Queen of France and England, that Malbec was brought to England. Thus, this variety avoided extinction when the phylloxera epidemic devastated the vineyards of its homeland, Cahors. It was from England that Malbec reached Argentina, where it survived the epidemic and found its second home.

Sorry, Malbec! Another time…
Initially, I intended to consolidate the theory with practice and remind myself of the taste of Argentine Malbec at a tasting after visiting the exhibition. However, among all the wines offered in the panoramic bar la Belvédère on the 8th floor of the building, which can be accessed with a ticket or subscription, I was more interested in the wine from Washington state, from the Red Mountain AVA region. So let’s leave the Argentine Malbec for next time, we will definitely come back to it.

A few words about Red Mountain AVA

Red Mountain AVA (American Viticultural Area) is a small region of 1,635 hectares, part of the larger Yakima Valley, which in turn is part of Washington state.

This region is a relatively new one – it was granted AVA status in 2001. The name of the region, and the mountain itself, comes from a phenomenon that can be observed in the fall: the grass covering the mountain turns red. The vineyards are planted on the slopes of this mountain, in the northeast of the region, at an elevation of 400 meters above sea level and are oriented to the southwest, toward the Yakima River, which flows into the Columbia River nearby.

The climate in the Red Mountain AVA, as in the entire Yakima River Valley, is continental. Hot summers, cold winters and a large temperature difference between the coldest and hottest months.
Arid conditions and scant rainfall are also a feature of the Yakima Valley and the entire state of Washington, since the Cascade Mountain range in the west of the state protects it from humidity and rain, which is limited to only 180-200 mm of precipitation per year.

In such an extreme climate, the Yakima River plays an important role in providing suitable conditions for winemaking: it moderates extremely high and extremely low temperatures and provides water for irrigation, which is necessary due to the lack of rainfall.

Another important characteristic of the Red Mountain AVA and Washington State is their northern latitude, which lengthens the days and provides vineyards with two more hours of sunlight than in Napa Valley. This feature allows the grapes to ripen better and gain sufficient sugar, despite its northern latitude. At the same time, a fresh wind from the west, penetrating the Yakima River bed, contributes to slow ripening, preservation of acidity and accumulation of aromatic components in the berries.

Soils Red Mountain AVA were formed during the last ice age, as a result of the Missoula floods 13-15 thousand years ago. The streams of water that went around the mountain carried various rocks with them and, thanks to their deposits, formed various soils (in most cases – loam based on gravel or basalt).

The vines are typically planted on loam and gravel soils with high limestone content. These soils are particularly well suited for viticulture because they provide good drainage (and are 60% drier than other Washington soils). This allows for smaller crops and forces the vines to develop deep root systems that can extract minerals from deep within the soil. This results in smaller, richer berries with more aromatics, resulting in full-bodied, powerful wines.

Red Mountain AVA is known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, but Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot also do well here.

At the show, Red Mountain AVA presented…

The Hedges Family Estate wine selected by the Wine Museum is a complex blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), complemented by Merlot (25%), Syrah (15%), Petit Verdot (1%), Cabernet Franc (0.5%) and Malbec (0.5%).

The grapes for this wine were harvested from different sites on the same estate, with varying degrees of slope (0-5%) and soils of loam and sand in varying proportions. The wine was also aged in American and French oak barrels (40% of the barrels were new) for 20 months.

The result of such a (too) complex blend turned out to be quite intriguing for the European taste, which is not accustomed to it.

Tasting

The wine is dark ruby in color, quite aromatic, with fresh notes of fresh black cherries and plums and a light shade of the same dried fruits.
Long aging in oak barrels (some of which were made of American oak, known for the bright aroma of spices that it imparts to wine) was very noticeable in the bouquet. Notes of cloves, liquorice and vanilla were felt, which were intertwined with a light aroma of black pepper, characteristic of some grape varieties included in the blend.
The same complexity and concentration on the palate: above average body and intensity of flavours, slightly above average alcohol and tannins with a soft, velvety texture.

This generally warming wine needs enough acidity to maintain balance. The wine is of very good quality, open, dense, but balanced by its freshness. However, in my opinion, it still lacked the subtle notes of fresh herbs and flowers that would add elegance.

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You have probably noticed the words Château, Domaine or Clos on wine labels, especially on French wines. Sometimes they precede the name of the wine and take the form «Mis en bouteille au Château « or «Mis en bouteille au domaine», and sometimes they are absent, and only the name of the wine region appears on the label.

And these is a reason why these terms are used. Maybe they indicate the quality level of the wine? Or something else that indicates the uniqueness of the wine? Let’s look at their meaning in more detail.
First, let’s dwell on the basic types of producer. Thus, in French terminology there are the:

• Vigneron – literally “winemaker”, but refers to those who are also winegrowers, i.e. owns his own plots and makes wine from his own grapes.
• Vinificateur is also a winemaker, but he does not own his own vineyards, but buys grapes.
• Viticulteur is a winegrower who does not make wine, but grows and sells grapes.

And now a few words about the Château itself.

By the way, the name “château” has its own short history. The term appeared in the middle of the 19th century, when wealthy owners of large plots of land could afford to build luxurious residences on them.

During the famous classification of 1855 (when the Medoc and Sauternes wineries were classified for the World Exhibition in Paris by order of Napoleon III), only 5 of the 79 wineries included in the classification had such residences – “châteaux”. All the rest, realizing the prestige associated with the definition of “château”, began to add it to the name of their winery. Today in the New World and in Russia there are wineries called “Château”, for example, Château Montelena in California and Château Tamagne in the Krasnodar Territory.

The particularity of Château wines

Their particularity lies in their winery. These can be buildings similar to a castle (although this is rare) or a mansion (more common, especially in the Grand Cru of the Medoc region in Bordeaux). But usually it is a modest building or complex of buildings, where there are the necessary installations for the production and aging of wine. Sometimes these are unremarkable, but quite diverse buildings.
But they all have one thing in common – in a chateau, production is concentrated in one area. The vineyards are in close proximity or, at least, in the same region. Vinification, aging and bottling also take place in the chateau buildings. Sometimes there is an in-house bottling line or they resort to the help of specialists who have the necessary equipment and provide services to many châteaux.

Negociants and cooperatives: definitions

Cooperative (French: Cave cooperative, Italian: Cantina sociale) is a cooperative, or association, of winemakers and winegrowers who own a common production center and can produce wines both under their own brand and under the common brand of the cooperative.
If the wines are produced under the cooperative members’ own brands, the latter only use the necessary equipment to produce wine from their grapes. If the wine is produced under the cooperative brand, the harvest is first provided to the cooperative, which combines it with the harvest from other winegrowers for production.
Négociant – a merchant, although he does not grow grapes or produce wine himself, plays an important role, especially in Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne.
A negociant is an intermediary between a buyer of ready-made, bottled wine and a winemaker. In fact, a merchant can be a complex and comprehensive structure, and be both a winemaker, a winegrower, and, in fact, a merchant, i.e. a seller.
He may not own the equipment for wine production (for example, fermentation tanks), but he has the ability to create blends from purchased wine, store it in warehouses, bottle it and sell it under his own brand on the local or international market. In addition, a merchant can purchase ready-made wines from producers, but sell them not under his own brand, but under the brand of the producer (château or cooperative).

Château, merchants and cooperatives: differences in wines

Now let’s return to the comparison of wines made in a château, a cooperative and a merchant.

Château… Mis en bouteille au Château (you can also find Domaine/Mis en bouteille au domaine)

If the wine is named after a château and has the inscription (Mis en bouteille au Château/Bottled at the Chateau) on the label. This means that the grapes are obtained from the vineyards of this chateau and the production process is also completely concentrated on the territory of the chateau.

But the quality of wines made by a chateau will not necessarily be higher than that of wines from a négociant or a cooperative. Everything depends not on the place of production or the type of structure, but on the skill of the winemaker and the quality of the grapes (which in turn depends on climatic conditions and the quality of the terroir). Therefore, the wines of some cooperatives and négociants can be of even better quality than the wines of a château.
Pay attention to the label. Even if the wine is made from grapes harvested from the vineyards of the chateau and the production process from fermentation to bottling was carried out within its walls, the word “château” may not precede the name of the wine on the label, or may not be mentioned first. This is typical for second wines of the chateau (i.e. wines that, unlike the main Grand Vin, are made from grapes from younger vines and have a lighter, more open style). It is also typical for wines made from grapes that were not suitable in quality for the main wine. Both of these cases are examples of wines that do not bear the name of the chateau, but a name referring to it, without the term “château” on the label.

The terms “domaine” and “clos” in the name can be related in meaning to “château”, but they are more common outside of the Bordeaux region (especially in Burgundy, where “clos” has a historical meaning and refers to the low stone wall that monks erected around the cultivated vineyards).

Coopeative

Cooperatives, unlike châteaux, mostly produce wines of IGP appellations (one level below AOP in the hierarchy of appellations) and play an important role in the Languedoc region, where there are the most appellations of this level. But this does not mean that the quality of cooperative wines will be lower than that of châteaux by all indicators. Some cooperatives produce very worthy wines, which are even used as typical representatives of their names in sommelier and wine expert classes (the La Chablisienne cooperative from Chablis, for example, or Nicolas Feuillatte from Champagne).

In addition, the cooperative gives the opportunity to owners of small plots, for whom it is not profitable to have expensive equipment for vinification and to bottle the wine themselves, to use the common equipment of the cooperative or sell the harvest to it.

Négociant/wine merchant

One of the main advantages of a négociant is the opportunity to buy wines of the same name from different winemakers and create their own blends. A classic example is the négociants of Burgundy, who buy wines or grapes from different names from owners of small plots. This approach has at least two advantages:

• relative stability of supply, since the merchant is less dependent on weather conditions and can choose suppliers who had a better or more abundant harvest,
• quality control of wines, since again, the merchant can choose higher quality wines for their premium brands, and simpler wines for a brand with a lower price.

Champagne merchants who own their own plots often specify that the base wine (which undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle and later becomes sparkling champagne) is made from grapes from their own plots. They, in turn, are especially carefully selected by the owners and are distinguished by the best quality.

Champagne houses are a striking example of when a merchant produces high-quality and expensive wines.

There are merchants in many wine regions of France. I will highlight some of them.

Champagne: Champagne houses that both buy grapes for their main wine and own their own vineyards. Examples of such houses are Moët & Chandon, Bollinger, etc.

Bordeaux: Dourthe

• Dourthe No. 1 – wine of a negociant;
• Château La Garde (Pessac-Léognan) – wine of the chateau owned by Dourthe,
• Baron de Lestac, the best-selling negociant wine in France from the negociant Groupe Castel..

Burgundy: Maison Champy, Bouchard Père & Fils, Chanson Père & Fils, Joseph Drouhin…

Valley Rhone: Paul Jaboulet Aînée, Guigal.

Which wine is better?

I would like to point out that it is not necessary to look for wine produced in a chateau to be sure of its quality.

Yes, indeed, if a winemaker is responsible for the entire production process, from growing grapes to selling them, then he will know his vineyard very well and what kind of wine will come out of a particular year’s harvest. He will be able to adapt technologies so that even in a difficult year he will get, if not exceptional, then a pleasant wine, and to some extent, «mis en bouteille au château» will be a guarantee of quality.

But often the more significant financial resources of large cooperatives and merchants, modern technologies in production and the ability to choose wines from different producers for the final blend allow their wines to be no worse, and sometimes even better, than the wines of the château.

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Let’s imagine for a moment…
You bought a bottle of wine. You liked it so much that you decided to keep it for a while – wait for the drink’s “heyday” and enjoy an even more wonderful taste.
I will tell you in detail in this article how to create favorable conditions for its storage and provide the wine with the most favorable conditions for maturation.

Wine is constantly opening up
By the way, the maturation of wine in a bottle can be compared to the ripening of bunches of grapes on the vine.
Thus, slow ripening allows the grapes to obtain many microelements from the soil and supplement their main fruity notes with them (for example, let’s take the famous region of the Loire Valley – Sancerre, where Sauvignon Blanc grows on limestone and quartz, or siliceous, soils and absorbs the so-called minerality).
Also in wine, when stored correctly, the aromatic components interact harmoniously with each other and turn into interesting tertiary aromas (for example, tobacco, forest floor and dried fruits and herbs), which amazingly complement the bouquet of wine.

What should you pay attention to when you decide to store wine?

Constant temperature. Preferably around 11-14°C, without sudden temperature changes, which can harm the wine even more than a temperature slightly warmer than the ideal. This is a very important rule, so let it top our list of necessary storage conditions.

When wine or grapes ripen too quickly due to high temperatures, a number of problems arise:
Firstly, the vine does not have time to absorb mineral substances and transform them into aromatic components in the berries.
Secondly, as a result of chemical processes accelerated by high temperatures in the berries themselves, new aromatic components will not be able to form, and fresh fruits in the aroma will turn into jammy notes.

So, rapid ripening of both grapes and wine can cost the drink its balance and complexity.

Optimal air humidity. Ideally, it should be between 60% and 70%.

If the air in the cellar is too dry, the corks may begin to dry out, shrink, and lose their natural elasticity. This will allow more air into the bottle, which will speed up the maturation of the wine and may even contribute to its gradual oxidation. The result will be an unpleasant cocktail of berry jam, mushrooms, and sometimes caramel (for red wines), or baked apples and pears, nuts, and wax (for white wines).

It’s one thing when such shades don’t spoil the wine at all, but on the contrary, add originality to the bouquet. Another thing is when they become its main part, hiding fresh notes (if any remain), the wine becomes unsuitable for consumption, or at least will not bring any pleasure.
Too high humidity may not harm the wine itself (or, in any case, will not affect it very soon), but the labels will suffer from it.

Absence of direct sunlight. Ideally, of course, wines should be stored in complete darkness.

Ultraviolet rays can not only heat the wine, but also cause chemical reactions in it. They can lead to the formation of suspension and precipitation of unstable copper, not to mention irreversible changes in the characteristics of the wine (give it the so-called “light defect” or “flavor of light”).

Absence of vibrations. Even small but constant vibrations disrupt the process of wine maturation and polymerization of tannins, and also shake up the natural sediment that forms in the wine over the years. Vibrations contribute to the destruction of aromatic molecules, and therefore – to a change in the characteristics of the wine.

Constant ventilation of the room. Unpleasant odors and dampness can penetrate into wines over time.

Horizontal position of bottles. The cork must be constantly moistened by contact with the wine and thus maintain its elasticity.

The exception is sparkling wines, the gas inside which will exert excessive pressure on the cork, fortified wines such as sherry, port, Madeira, French Vins Doux Naturels, and spirits, since their high alcohol content can react with the cork and extract unpleasant bitterness, woody tones in a bad sense, and even a cork defect.

Ideal places for storing wine

All these principles of ideal wine storage can be combined only in real underground cellars (especially in former limestone quarries – some châteaux, for example, Saint-Emilion, are especially proud of them, if such quarries are on their territory) or in special wine cabinets designed specifically for wine maturation. In addition to a constant ideal temperature, such cabinets maintain an optimal level of humidity, have opaque doors and protect wines from light.

But if you don’t plan to invest in a grand cru of exceptional vintage and store wines for years and decades, it will be enough to ensure that the place where the wines are stored is free of:
• sudden temperature changes (smooth seasonal changes are allowed, they will not cause much harm to the wine)
• excessive dryness
• direct sunlight and strong vibrations.
Even in an regular apartment you can easily find such a place, but for obvious reasons you should still avoid the kitchen.

Will the refrigerator do?

We should also mention the effect of low temperatures on storing wine. Surely there were cases when you kept a bottle of white or sparkling wine in the refrigerator in case of uninvited guests or an unexpected party (this also happens).
Although the low temperatures of the refrigerator are much less likely to spoil the wine than the heat in a heated room. On the contrary, its development will slow down. Nevertheless, an ordinary refrigerator cannot replace a good wine cabinet, for several reasons:

1. There are still some vibrations in the refrigerator due to the cooling mechanism turning on and off.
2. The smells in the refrigerator can be anything, but not neutral.
3. In some refrigerators, high humidity may be observed.

In white wines, tartaric acid crystals may also appear at the bottom of the bottle. They are completely safe and appear in the process of natural crystallization at a temperature of about +4 C °. Some wineries cool the wine before bottling to filter out these crystals and avoid their appearance in front of the consumer. This observation can be considered a disadvantage, since tartaric acid crystals can still appear when white wine is cooled before drinking.

If you follow all of these simple rules, you can easily buy your favorite wine for several years in advance.
Try and experiment!

I have long been intrigued by the complex combination of wine and black caviar. Caviar is a prestigious and expensive product by definition and, of course, requires a great wine, that matches it perfectly.

However, everything is not as simple as it may seem at first glance – focusing on the Grand Cru names will not be the right decision. Black caviar, like expensive wine, has rich, multifaceted flavors that do not always go well together.

Perhaps one of the most memorable master classes at Vinexpo 2020 in Paris, in which I participated, was the so-called battle between the most famous sommeliers in the world on the most suitable wines for black caviar. A lot of valuable information and excellent caviar :). Special thanks to the Sturia house for generously providing two types of caviar!

A little about Sturia

The Sturia house has been around for about 30 years and was the first company in France to breed sturgeons, produce caviar and commercialize it both in France and around the world. Today, Sturia has a unique infrastructure – six sturgeon farms, its own production line, sorting and selection of caviar, as well as caviar maturation facilities.

Depending on the maturation period, Baerii caviar is divided into the following categories: Primeur (1 month of maturation), Vintage (3-8 months) and Origin (more than 8 months). And the longer the caviar matures, the more expressive its taste will be. If Primeur is distinguished by more subtle salty “marine” notes, then Vintage already acquires a shade of iodine and black olives, and Origin – even woody and spicy notes. In addition, the Acipenser Baerii sturgeon caviar range also includes the ultra-fresh Christmas caviar Caviar de Noël, which matures for less than a month, Baerii Prestige with larger eggs (from 3 mm) and Jasmin – caviar with a reduced amount of salt.

The Acipenser Gueldenstaedtii sturgeon caviar also exists in a Christmas version (Osciètre de Noël), the traditional Osciètre with fresh notes of fruit and iodine, Osciètre Prestige with large eggs and Osciètre Grand Cru, a special caviar with a refined and delicate taste of citrus and pistachios.

Sturia presented two of its classic products to the master class participants: Baerii Vintage and Osciètre, which I will discuss in more detail.

Two types of caviar and six wines to go with them

When it comes to pairing wine and food for a special occasion, I usually choose the wine first and then – the menu. Obviously, at this master class it was the other way around: the wines were chosen to go with the central element of the tasting – sturgeon caviar. So first we should introduce the highlight of the program – Vintage Baerii and Oscietra caviar.

Baerii Vintage caviar is the caviar of the Acipenser Baerii, or Siberian sturgeon, the smaller of the two species bred at the Sturia farm. The Siberian sturgeon reaches 120 cm in length and 8 kg in weight. Its caviar is dark brown in color, and the grains are at least 2.5 mm in size. Baerii Vintage caviar has a fresh, milky, slightly salty marine taste, with notes of nuts, black olives, herbs and iodine, and has fairly dense grains.

Oscietra caviar is obtained from sturgeon native to the Caspian Sea – the Acipenser Gueldenstaedtii species, which is larger in size and lighter in color than Acipenser Baerii. For the first caviar harvest, it must reach 10-12 years of age, while the first species can produce caviar a couple of years earlier. Its caviar is also lighter and slightly larger – at least 2.7 mm. The taste of such caviar is more pronounced and long-lasting, and the texture is creamier than that of Baerii.

In fact, when you compare different types of black caviar like this, it becomes clear that it can have a young, refreshing taste, or an aged and ripe one (just like wine 🙂 ), and that different types of caviar should be paired with different wines.

The master class I was lucky enough to attend was something like a competition between the best sommeliers in the world: Raimonds Thompson, 3rd best sommelier ASI 2019, Piotr Pietras, MS, 6th best sommelier ASI 2019 and Marcus del Monego, MW, best sommelier in the world 1998. Each sommelier offered one wine for each type of caviar, and the best combinations were chosen by the participants during the tasting and subsequent voting, and, I must say, the opinions were divided 🙂

Wines for Baerii Vintage Caviar

1) Besserat de Bellefon Triple B. Champagne – organic Champagne of the Besserat de Bellefon house, the base wine of the harvest is an assemblage of 10% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier and 60% Pinot Noir. Dosage is less than 3 g / l, i.e. Brut Nature. The mousse is very delicate, with small bubbles, the aroma is refined, citrus-spicy with notes of brioche, the taste is elegant, with crispy acidity, notes of peach, lemon zest, apple peel, chamomile and autolysis, it is distinguished by complexity, balance and a long aftertaste. The special feature of this champagne is a barely perceptible hint of iodine and saltiness, which favorably emphasize the similar tastes of caviar. In addition, its long-lasting aftertaste reflects and accompanies the aftertaste of caviar (this is one of the defining characteristics when choosing wines for the exceptional taste qualities of black caviar). It seemed to me that the caviar, so to speak, hardened the taste of champagne – a hint of bitterness appeared in it, and the acidity and dryness, which are already the main components of Brut Nature, became more noticeable. Nevertheless, this option was also appreciated.

2) Chenin Blanc Pièces Longues 2013. Fabien Jouves. Vin de France – 100% Chenin from the red wine region of Cahors, organic wine, and the work in the vineyards itself is carried out according to the principles of biodynamic. Aged in large oak barrels foudres for 12 months, the wine is not filtered before bottling, which leaves a small suspension in it, which, of course, does not affect the purity of the aromas: fresh and baked apple, pear, honey, nuts – all these notes are typical for Chenin Blanc in the process of development (this wine was almost 7 years old and tertiary shades have already begun to appear in it). The wine slightly overshadows the taste of caviar if you try them together, but the taste qualities of both create a quite harmonious aftertaste. It should be noted that of the three combinations of Baerii caviar and wine, I preferred this one. And looking ahead, I will say that with the second type of caviar, a creamier and deeper taste, this wine also made a good pair.

3) Scalunero 2019. Torre Mora. Etna Rosato – to be honest, it would not have an idea to serve rosé wine not with a simple shrimp cocktail, but with such a prestigious product as black caviar, but, nevertheless, the sommelier’s suggestion was curious and quite worthy of pairing with caviar. Thanks to its unusual concentration for rosé, body, fairly high acidity and raspberry-floral aroma with a mineral note, this rosé from Nerello Mascalese perfectly set off the salty taste of caviar and had sufficient richness and length of aftertaste for it. An interesting solution for those who love pink wines.

Wines for Oscietra caviar

1) Domaine du Causse d’Arboras 320. Languedoc AOP 2016. Vignobles Jeanjean – Organic white wine, a blend of 45% Vermentino, 35% Roussanne and 25% Marsanne, from organic vineyards growing at an altitude of 320 meters above sea level, hence the name. This location at one of the highest points of Languedoc allows to refresh its hot southern climate and grow quality grapes with sufficient acidity. The soils of these vineyards have both calcareous and volcanic components, which also manifests itself in the mineral notes of the wine. The main taste and aroma characteristics are all kinds of citrus fruits with grapefruit dominance, as well as wet stones and high acidity. Together with caviar, this wine creates a complementary combination: the rich, creamy and oily taste of caviar is refreshed by the bright acidity of the wine, and its salty finish is emphasized by mineral notes. A contrasting, and at the same time – harmonious combination.
2) Weingut Julius. Riesling Morstein. Rheinhessen 2016 – German Riesling, one of the classic combinations of white wine and black caviar. Riesling is generally an amazing variety, which has an amazing ability to accumulate sugar well and at the same time create balanced wines, thanks to its high natural acidity (this Riesling, for example, contained as much as 9.5 g / l of residual sugar, but felt like “almost dry, off-dry”, and not sweet wine). A separate plot of Westhofen, where the grapes for Riesling Morstein grow, has clay, loess and limestone soils, is processed organically and produces wine with a crystal clear, mineral-citrus and slightly salty taste and aroma. Like a Chenin Blanc paired with Baerii caviar, this Riesling adds another dimension of richness to the Oscietra caviar, while still having enough body to withstand the caviar’s buttery texture.

3) Villa Huesgen. Mosel. Riesling Auslese 2017. And the last wine, again a Riesling, but this time from the Mosel region and from the Prädikat Auslese category with noticeable residual sugar (although it feels much less than it actually is). The grapes for this wine are grown on one of the best sites – on one of the steepest slopes facing south, and some of the vines planted there are not grafted and have been growing there for over 100 years. The special soil composition of this site is characterized by a high content of iron and quartzite. All these factors allow to create a powerful, rich wine with a distinct aroma of herbs, flowers, honey and candied fruits, which are combined with a subtle saltiness, high acidity and a pleasant, moderately sweet taste. In combination with caviar, a harmonious, sweet-salty combination is obtained (which can be quite a winning combination, take at least the classics: Sauternes and Roquefort cheese), where, in addition, the tastes of both elements – wine and caviar – are close in intensity. In my opinion, this was the best solution for Oscietra caviar.

Conclusion: what wine would be the best choice for black caviar?

Obviously, it will depend on the caviar itself. The more delicate and fine taste of caviar, which has been maturing for about a month, will be advantageously complemented by champagne without a year, from the Blanc de Blancs category or a young wine from the Chenin or Riesling variety; a more mature version of the Vintage type is better suited to a more mature white wine, with a long aftertaste, high acidity and still noticeable notes of fresh citrus, which will reflect and complement the versatility of the caviar’s taste, as well as bring a fresh citrus touch. What can be said about champagne? Vintage, with a long aging on the sediment, and then in the cellar, after which the autolytic character will acquire a nutty shade, and the bubbles will decrease in size, but will increase in number under the effect of gas pressure in the bottle. Champagne without a year seemed to me not too friendly with the mature version of caviar. Also, do not ignore the sweet and salty combination, especially in the case of the most aged caviar. If this contrast effect is chosen correctly, the result will be impressive.

Speaking about the most emblematic autochthonous grape varieties of Georgia, in addition to Saperavi, we should also mention Rkatsiteli. Like Saperavi, which is the basis of the most famous Georgian wines, Rkatsiteli occupies a special place in Georgian winemaking.

Origin and distribution of Rkatsiteli

Rkatsiteli is one of the most ancient Georgian grape varieties. Studies of its genome have shown that Rkatsiteli is a relative of the local wild grape, which suggests that this variety was domesticated and not bred as a result of crossing. There are also opinions that the oldest found qvevri – vessels for fermentation and aging – contained the seeds of Rkatsiteli berries. The birthplace of Rkatsiteli is considered to be the village of Tsinandali in Kakheti, where the most famous wines of the same protected geographical indication are produced from this variety.

The most extensive plantings of Rkatsiteli (about 19,500 hectares) are, of course, in Georgia, and especially in Kakheti, but, like Saperavi, this variety has spread far beyond its homeland. In Georgia, the best dry varietal wines from Rkatsiteli are produced in the settlements of Kardenakhi and Tibaani, and in Tsinandali, Gurjaani and Vazisubani, up to 15% of Kakhuri Mtsvane can be added to the blend with Rkatsiteli. But in the warmer parts of Kakheti, especially in Kardenakhi, sweet fortified wines are also made from Rkatsiteli. Rkatsiteli remains a popular variety in the post-Soviet space: there are not many of them in Russia (about 570 in the Rostov region, about 130 in the Krasnodar region), and in Moldova and Ukraine – almost 11,500 hectares each. In addition, in Armenia, Rkatsiteli was once the most common variety, but by the end of the 20th century, its planting area had decreased to 7% of the total area. Now in Armenia, Rkatsiteli is used not only in winemaking, but also as a base for distillate, which will later become Armenian cognac (but, if you take into account the European names, it cannot be called cognac, but brandy). Of the Old World countries, Rkatsiteli is found in Bulgaria, where it is the most common white variety and occupies about 12,600 hectares, and in Romania (here it is allocated only about 350 hectares). If we talk about the New World, then, like Saperavi, Rkatsiteli crossed the ocean. In the United States, where its ability to withstand low temperatures was appreciated in New York State, Rkatsiteli is found in the Finger Lakes area. In addition, in the United States, Rkatsiteli also grows in Virginia and in small quantities in some other states. Rkatsiteli even appeared in China in 1956, where it took root well and is called Bayu. Today, Chinese winemakers use this variety for the production of still dry and sweet wines, as well as for sparkling wines and distillation.

Characteristics of the Rkatsiteli vine

First of all, it is worth noting that Rkatsiteli has reddish petioles, since it is this feature that gave it its name (“rka” is translated from Georgian as “vine”, and “tsiteli” – red). The bunches themselves are medium or large in size and oblong in shape, the berries are small, with amber dense skin, which facilitates the transportation process.

The vine grows quite well, prefers moist fertile loamy and sandy loam soils and is quite productive: from 80 to 140 centners can be obtained from a hectare. At the same time, the most optimal conditions, helping to avoid too rapid ripening, are formed at an altitude of 400-700 meters above sea level, on the northern slopes, especially in areas with hot summers. Rkatsiteli does not tolerate heat well and in case of high temperatures and drought requires irrigation.

Rkatsiteli is even more frost-resistant than Saperavi and can withstand cold down to -25 Cº, even down to -30 Cº. In addition, Rkatsiteli is a late variety: shoots appear late, which allows it to wait out the period of frosts, but it also ripens late – in early to mid-October, 150-160 days after bud break. Another positive feature of Rkatsiteli is its resistance to the root form of phylloxera and relative resistance to gray rot. On the contrary, this variety is quite susceptible to mildew and oidium.

Technical characteristics of Rkatsiteli

Rkatsiteli ripens well, reaches high sugar levels (from 18% to 25%), while maintaining high acidity (7-9 g / l titratable acidity). These characteristics allow Rkatsiteli to be the basis for a variety of wines – dry, made using Kakhetian or European technology, fortified, and used for strong alcoholic beverages.

Organoleptic profile of Rkatsiteli wine

Depending on the technology (Kakhetian or European), as well as the blend, Rkatsiteli can have various notes: fruity (apple, lemon, grapefruit), spicy and honey, as well as floral notes and a slight bitterness in the aftertaste.

Tasting of Rkatsiteli wines from three producers

I tasted many of the unique, rare and classic Georgian wines described in my articles at the WineParis Vinexpo 2020 exhibition, and Rkatsiteli wines were no exception. To illustrate this article, I will compare the Tsinandali wine from Teliani Valley and the amber Rkatsiteli wine from the Orgo winery (importer Le Pont Caucasien), as well as the Tsinandali wine from Château Nekresi, which I managed to get in Bordeaux, at La Cité du Vin.

Both Tsinandali, both from Teliani Valley and Château Nekresi, were distinguished by a relatively light body, mainly citrus-floral notes and a long aftertaste with light grapefruit bitterness. However, the style of Tsinandali from Château Nekresi seemed to me more ripe and soft, with lower acidity, while Tsinandali from Teliani Valley had piercing citrus-mineral notes and high acidity.

I was able to compare the amber wine from Rkatsiteli, made in qvevri, with amber Mtsvane, which had a bright aroma of very ripe peach and apricot, even apricot jam and dried apricots, and seemed slightly sweet on the palate. The bouquet of amber wine from Rkatsiteli reminded Mtsvane of shades of stone fruits, but still seemed more delicate and complex, with additional notes of dried herbs and flowers.

Resources

Wine Grapes. A Complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavors. Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, José Vouillamos

https://vinedresser.info/sorta/373-rkaciteli

http://vvinograd.ru/sorta-vinograda/vinnye/vinograd-rkaciteli.html

https://v-georgia.com/sort-vinograda-rkaciteli/amp/

https://vinograd.info/sorta/vinnye/rkaciteli.html

Contents:

1. Tsinandali Climate
2. Tsinandali Microzone Soils
3. Grape Varieties and Production Method of Tsinandali Wines
4. Tasting. Review of Château Nekresi. Iceberg Tsinandali 2015
5. Quality Assessment Based on the BLICE Principle

Red Wines of Georgia. The names Mukuzani, Kindzmarauli and Khvanchkara immediately come to mind. They have truly become symbols of red Georgian wines.
And white wines? Here the title of a famous name – Tsinandali. I dedicate this article to it.

Where it all began
The name Tsinandali comes from a small settlement, also known for the fact that it is the location of the estate of the Georgian prince Alexander Chavchavadze, who was a famous Georgian poet and thinker and often invited musicians, writers and poets to his estate, including Pushkin, Lermontov and Griboyedov. In the early 1820s, Alexander Chavchavadze built the Tsinandali Palace, and it was there that he met Nina Chavchavadze, his future wife. On the territory of the estate of A. Chavchavadze there is also a private winery, storing a unique collection of 20,000 bottles of wine in its cellars. In addition, the Georgian prince founded the Tsinandali Winery in his family estate.

Tsinandali Territory
The Tsinandali microzone is located in the Telavi administrative district, on the right bank of the Alazani River, at 41 latitude (i.e. in the favorable for viticulture interval between 30 and 50 latitudes). The microzone includes the Tsinandali settlement itself, and many others – Akura, Vantaa, Busheti, Kvemo-Khodasheni, Kisikhevi, Kondoli, Nazamkharali, Shalauri, Kurzhelauri and Vardisubani.
The area where grapes for the Tsinandali wines are grown stretches from the wooded northeastern slopes of the Gombori foothills to the Alazani Valley and is located at an altitude of 300-750 meters above sea level.

Tsinandali Climate

• The climate in this microzone is quite warm: the amount of sunlight is measured at 2,300 hours. Average temperatures of the hottest months (July-August) and the coldest (January): +23 C° and +1 C° respectively.
• Humidity is moderate, precipitation is 845 mm per year, with most of it (644 mm) falling during the growing season.
• The main threat to vineyards is hail in May and June, frosts are quite rare. Vineyards bloom in mid-April, and the berries begin to ripen from mid-August. Harvest time usually falls at the end of September.

Soils of the Tsinandali microzone

As in the whole territory of Kakheti, in Tsinandali brown forest and meadow soils predominate, as well as dealluvial (cover formations on slopes, formed as a result of avalanches and landslides), proalluvial (products of rock weathering, moved by snow and rainwater) and alluvial soils (river sediments) with loam.
Brown forest and meadow soils predominate in the foothills of the Caucasus, dealluvial and proalluvial – in the transitional areas between the foothills and the Alazani Valley, alluvial – already in the valley itself.
The soil exposure is mainly north-eastern and eastern, where the soils also contain a carbonate component.

Grape varieties and production method of wines of the name Tsinandali

Tsinandali wines are an assemblage of two white grape varieties: Rkatsiteli and Kakhuri Mtsvane, with the first usually making up 85% of the wine assemblage, and the second – 15%.

Rkatsiteli

• Rkatsiteli, like Saperavi, is the most widespread and well-known Georgian variety.
• It is surprising, but the area of Rkatsiteli plantings was once the most extensive among all technical varieties not only in Georgia itself, but also in the whole world. But as a result of Gorbachev’s policy of condemning the consumption of alcoholic beverages, the area of vineyards was significantly reduced.
• Nevertheless, now this frost-resistant and fairly fertile variety has the largest planting area in Georgia, and is also found in Ukraine (although it ripens to a lower sugar content), Bulgaria and even in New York, where it is valued precisely for its frost resistance.
• An interesting external feature of Rkatsiteli is its reddish combs and branches, which gave it this name (rka is translated from Georgian as “vine”, and tsiteli means “red”).

Kakhuri Mtsvane
The second component of the Tsinandali blend is the Kakhuri Mtsvane variety, or Kakhetian Mtsvane (not to be confused with Goruli Mtsvane). This variety is considered one of the most valuable technical varieties of Georgia, as it has such characteristics necessary for high-quality wine as the ability to accumulate high levels of sugar and at the same time to maintain high acidity.

• Kakhuri Mtsvane comes from the small area and settlement of Manavi and is today grown mainly at the foot of the Tsiv-Gombori Range, on the right bank of the Alazani River.
• Like Rkatsiteli, Kakhuri Mtsvane is frost-resistant, but does not tolerate drought well, due to which it can even shed its flowers, which leads to a decrease in yield, as well as mildew.
• Kakhuri Mtsvane has a bright floral-fruity aroma, is used to produce varietal wine (even fortified and sparkling) and in blends with Rkatsiteli, in particular, in Tsinandali wines.

Tsinandali wines were traditionally aged in qvevri, but nowadays neutral steel vats and oak barrels are also used in production.
Tsinandali is one of the most famous and successful dry white wines of Georgia, which has been highly appreciated at international competitions, and is distinguished by a floral-citrus, refreshing aroma, pleasant acidity and creamy shades due to aging in barrels.

Tasting. Review of Château Nekresi wine. Iceberg Tsinandali 2015

A bit of history
This time I had to get wine somewhere in France, because due to my small omission I brought only red Georgian wines from Russia. Well, if you need something rare and exotic for Europe, the first thing I do is head to the Bordeaux wine museum, where you can find almost everything, including wines from Tahiti or Thailand. There were no problems with Georgian wines, rather, I was pleasantly surprised by the good selection. And Tsinandali was also found there. Therefore, this time – a review of what our cavists choose from Georgia.

Chateau Nekrezi wine

Chateau Nekrezi is located near the famous Nekrezi monastery – one of the main attractions of Georgia. Its white Rkatsiteli grapes for the Tsinandali wine grow at an elevated position, where the cooler air produces grapes with bright, fresh fruity notes and lively acidity.
Color: pale lemon, even greenish lemon. In official terms, the color is lemon with low intensity.
Aroma: quite expressive, with an intensity above average. The wine has an interesting and multifaceted bouquet with notes of citrus (lemon, lemon zest), sweetish shades of apricot and pineapple, floral (acacia) and mineral notes (wet stones). Even subtle hints of spices (cloves, nutmeg) were felt in the aroma.
Taste: A dry wine with a bright taste (above average intensity), which combines notes of lemon zest, candied lemon peel, peach, apricot and pineapple.

Against the background of medium acidity (but sufficient for the overall balance of the wine) and less pronounced mineral hints, the wine seems slightly sweet. The body is below average, but quite long and pleasant, moderately bitter aftertaste with notes of grapefruit (longer than average). The alcohol content (medium) also fits well with the overall rather light style of the wine.

Overall quality assessment: A wine of very good quality, with quite an expressive and varied aroma and taste. A wine of a balanced light style, pleasant and refreshing, the body and alcohol level are well balanced by the level of acidity.

The wine may be a little lacking in richness: its attack is bright, fruity and ripe, but the subsequent taste sensations are more modest in comparison, although the fairly long aftertaste leaves a very pleasant impression.

Ageing potential: after four years in the bottle, this wine is at its best. I don’t think it’s worth keeping it for more than 2-3 years, as it may lose its fruity freshness.

BLICE Quality Assessment

Balance — generally a balanced wine of a light style with a harmonious combination of sour citrus and sweetish notes of stone fruits. Moderate alcohol and sufficient acidity also fit well into the organoleptic profile of the wine.
Length — quite a long and pleasant aftertaste with a refreshing lemon sourness.
Intensity – the wine has good, bright expressiveness of tastes and aromas. Complexity/Слоность — the wine has a multifaceted bouquet of primary aromas (citrus, stone fruits, floral and mineral shades).
Expression-Typicity — refreshing fruity-floral wine made by a modern method. According to cavists, this is one of the typical examples of Tsinandali.
What to drink with and when: a very “friendly” wine for a variety of recipes from white fish, seafood and chicken. As for the most controversial combination — wine and cheese, then Tsinandali is more suitable for fresh goat or cow cheese, mozzarella, as well as soft and creamy hard cheese.

Contents:

1. Climate conditions in the Akhasheni microzone
2. Soils of the Akhasheni microzone
3. Winemaking and characteristics of Akhasheni wine

Akhasheni is another microzone of Kakheti, which is famous for its semi-sweet wines.
Akhasheni wine was first produced in 1958 by the Zegaani factory, which is still engaged in this business.
Akhasheni microzone:

• occupies 112 hectares and is located on the territory of Inner Kakheti, between the right tributaries of the Alazani River – Chermiskhevi and Papriskhevi;
• bordersin the northeast with the Mukuzani microzone, famous for its tannic wines;
• islocated at 41 latitude, in the favorable interval between 30 and 50 latitudes;
• has a relief with smooth hills, oriented mainly to the southwest, northeast and east, where they meet the Alazani Valley;
• is located at an altitude of 350-700 meters above sea level;
• includesitself settlement of Akhasheni and another small village of Chumlaki;
• is a continuation of the forested slopes of the Tsiv-Gombori Range, extending into the Alazani Valley. The Tsiv-Gombori Range rises only 14.5 kilometers from the territory of Akhasheni and, of course, influences the macroclimate of the region.

Climate conditions in the microzone of Akhasheni

Since the territory of Akhasheni is located in close proximity to Mukuzani, the climatic conditions of these two zones are similar.

Moderate climate

In general, the climate here is also moderate and in places subtropical. But cold air masses descending from the glacier-covered peaks of the Caucasus Mountains and moving from the northwest to the southeast affect the overall air temperature, as well as the difference between night and day temperatures. The direction of these cold winds is determined by the riverbed of the Alazani River, which stretches from west to east. Nevertheless, summers in Akhasheni are hot, and winters are moderately cold.

Moderate Humidity

Due to the distance from the Black Sea and, again, the influence of the mountains, the air humidity in the Akhasheni microzone is also moderate: 860 mm of precipitation falls per year, of which 637 mm falls during the growing season. Irrigation is allowed, but is not required often.

«Fertile» temperature regime

Like the Mukuzani microzone, Akhasheni receives 2150-2200 hours of sun per year, of which 1600 are during the growing season. In addition, the vineyards grow on small slopes facing northeast, which slightly increases the amount of sunlight.
The average annual temperature of Akhasheni is moderate: +12.5 °C, in July-August its average value approaches +24 °C, and in the coldest month – January, it rarely drops below +1.1 °C. Such a temperature regime allows for the production of high-quality and technically ripe grapes.

Frost and hail

The risk of spring frosts persists until the end of March-beginning of April and, if the vine buds open early, they can die due to too low temperatures, thus reducing the potential harvest. Another danger for the future harvest is hail, which sometimes occurs in the warm season.

Altitude above sea level

The mesoclimate of Akhasheni is also affected by the altitude above sea level. So, at an altitude of 450-500 meters above sea level, the conditions (amount of sunlight, slope, soil) are favorable for the production of semi-sweet premium quality Akhasheni wines. A little lower – at an altitude of 350-400 meters above sea level – it is slightly warmer, which affects the acidity level of the grapes and wine from such areas is classified as “good quality”.

It should be noted that Saperavi is the only variety permitted for the production of Akhasheni, it reaches technical maturity by the end of September, but the harvest for semi-sweet wine is collected in mid-October, when the sugar level in it is higher, and there are more various aromatic substances.

Soils of the Akhasheni microzone

The territory of Akhasheni is dominated by brown, sod-carbonate soils “rendzina”. They were formed on the alluvium of calcareous rocks, and sometimes include fairly large inclusions of these rocks.

Also distinguished are calcareous alluvial soils on loam, more or less stony depending on the site, and dealluvial calcareous soils on loam.

• Brown soils of the “Rendzina” type are found in the southwestern part of the microzone, on the northeastern slopes of the Tsiv-Gombori ridge and, especially, in the Papari valley in the immediate vicinity of the Akhasheni settlement and in the southwest of the Chumlaki settlement.
• Alluvial calcareous soils are also found in the territory of the above-mentioned villages, as well as in their north-eastern part, in the center of the microzone and on the slopes and banks of the rivers Chermiskhevi, Papriskhevi.
• Dealluvial calcareous soils partially cover the center of the microzone and the slightly hilly relief of the southern foothills of the Tsiv-Gombori Range.

Thus, despite its small size, the territory of the Akhasheni microzone is distinguished by the diversity of soils, which in turn is reflected in the wines.

The subsoils have common features: they consist of loam, sometimes sand and a calcareous component, which reaches 40-50% in the lower layers. In dry times, irrigation is sometimes required on such soils, but it should be stopped a month before harvesting.

However, in general, such soils together with the climatic conditions of Akhasheni allow to obtain high-quality grapes for the production of semi-sweet wine.

Winemaking and characteristics of Akhasheni wine

Akhasheni is a semi-sweet wine, containing from 30 to 50 g/l of residual sugar.

• The sugar is preserved by partial fermentation of the must with the cap (skins and seeds) submerged, which helps extract tannins and aromatic components.
• During harvest, the grapes should contain 22% or more sugar.
• The stalks are separated before fermentation to avoid excessive release of tannins, astringency and bitterness in the wine, which should remain pleasant and soft.
• Fermentation is stopped until the sugar is completely converted into alcohol by cooling or adding sulfur dioxide and filtration.

Akhasheni’s style resembles that of Kindzmarauli: it has a rich ruby color, a deep and harmonious fruity taste (raspberry, cherry, blackberry) with shades of sweet spices. The wine also tastes rich and quite dense, but, as a rule, it is a little softer and sweeter than Kindzmarauli.

The Napareuli microzone is named after the settlement of the same name and includes five more.

Climate specifics

• The main feature of Napareuli is that the amount of precipitation there is twice as high, and the number of hours of sunshine is significantly less than on the opposite bank of the Alazani River (about 1,500, as opposed to 2,050).

This can be explained by the fact that the clouds, trapped by the Caucasus peaks, remain longer in the foothills, where the Napareuli microzone is located. As a result, the vines receive less sunshine, and the berries accumulate less sugar, which is why Napareuli wines seem lighter compared to, for example, Mukuzani.

• Frequent cloudiness also affects the amount of precipitation, which is about 800 mm per year.

Precipitation can be observed mainly in spring (34%) and summer (32%, especially in May-June). To a lesser extent, during the ripening of grapes from July to September. In autumn and winter, there is even less precipitation: 22% and 12%, respectively.

In addition, hail and showers are possible from May to October, which can damage the vines or the grapes themselves and reduce the harvest. Spring frosts also occur in Napareuli, with a higher probability in March, and less often in April.

• The last thing worth noting is the windy weather and frequent snow cover (short-lived and unstable).

Napareuli soils and relief

In the north, the Napareuli microzone borders the southern foothills of the Caucasus, and in the south it gently descends to the Alazani River. Thus, vineyards are located on small slopes facing south and southwest, on the left bank of the Alazani River, on the left and right banks of its tributaries Stori and Lopota. They are located at 42 latitude, i.e. in the favorable for winemaking interval between 30 and 50 latitudes. The height of the microzone above sea level is 400-500 meters, and the slope is from 4 ° to 5 °.

Soils in Napareuli are:

• sedimentary;
• alluvial;
• proalluvial.

Sedimentary are sandy and clayey soils with a gravel layer. They were formed in the Quaternary period under the influence of the Alazani, Lopota and Stori rivers.

The composition of alluvial and proalluvial soils varies depending on the location. Such soils can be clayey and sandy with a limestone component and loam.

The structure of alluvial soils varies from compact to lumpy, the texture – from heavier to lighter. The color of the soils is brownish-gray, with the brown shade prevailing on the surface, and gray – in the deeper layers.

Deluvial soils have a loose structure and a brown shade, which is given to them by their fertile layer. In texture, deluvial soils also vary from light clay to heavier loam. In some areas, you can also find limestone deposits.

Obviously, on such different soils, the grapes acquire different characteristics, which are then transferred to the wine.

Styles of wines of the name Napareuli

We are already familiar with the peculiarity of the red wine Napareuli from Saperavi – a lighter body compared to other wines from this variety and a delicate aroma of fresh fruits.

But Napareuli also exists in white color, from the variety Rkatsiteli. Napareuli white wine has a straw-yellow color, floral aroma and a pleasant refreshing taste with hints of apricot and citrus.

Winemaking technology in Napareuli

Napareuli red and white wines are dry, i.e. they are produced by complete fermentation.

Then, red wines go through a stage of aging in barrels – at least 1 year. Aging gives a pleasant hint of spices to their delicate fruity bouquet.

White wines do not necessarily go through this stage, but are aged in neutral vats. This preserves their bright and fresh citrus-fruity profile.

We have come to the most “delicious” part of this article – wine tasting.

Marani 2013 Tasting. Review of Georgian Wine Napareuli

After studying Napareuli wines from various sources, I expected a light, refined wine, more like a Pinot Noir from the Loire Valley. And I was pleasantly surprised to taste a serious, deep and warming wine that was, nevertheless, surprisingly elegant.

Remember, more rainfall and less sunlight means less sugar and more acidity in the grapes.

Color: rather rich than medium intensity, ruby. Despite the 2-year age difference with Saperavi Zurab Tseriteli 2015, Marani Napareuli 2013, unlike the previous one, did not have garnet highlights.

Aroma: A delicate, even slightly closed aroma of medium intensity, which opened up gradually, becoming more and more multifaceted. The first to appear were clearly distinguishable, but subtle notes of sweet spices (cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg), which then smoothly turned into fresh fruity shades of red plum, red cherry and red currant with a slight hint of the tertiary aroma of dried red cherry.

Taste: A dry wine with a soft, enveloping fruit attack and an intensity of taste above average. In contrast to the aromas, the taste is primarily dominated by fruity notes (red cherry, black cherry, black currant), and only then do spicy notes of clove, smoke and subtle oak nuances (especially in the long and interesting aftertaste) emerge.

Body and acidity: The wine is above average in body, with high alcohol levels and fine-grained, slightly rough tannins (also above average). Acidity is above average.

Overall impression and quality rating: A wine of very good quality, rich and quite dense, but at the same time elegant. Mature and multifaceted organoleptic profile, well balanced, thanks to acidity and good tannin structure. By definition, the alcohol level in this wine is considered high, but it is well integrated, which gives a warming effect, but not heavy. The only thing that can be noted as a small minus is the relatively modest expressiveness of aromas compared to the taste.

Aging potential: the wine drinks beautifully at the moment and will suit lovers of tannic and serious wines. But thanks to its concentration (the level of body, tannins and richness of flavors) and a bouquet that has only just begun to acquire subtle tertiary characteristics, it is quite suitable for longer aging in a bottle and will easily lie for another 7-10 years.

Quality assessment according to the BLICE principle

Balance is a rich wine with a ripe, slightly sweet bouquet. Sufficient acidity and tannin structure create a harmonious ensemble. The refreshing effect of acidity allows you to balance the ripe juicy fruits in the taste and the warming effect of a fairly high degree of alcohol. As for the characteristics of the bouquet, here too there is a pleasant combination of spices and ripe red fruits, which do not dominate, but complement and gradually replace each other.

Length — a pleasant long aftertaste, gradually revealing even new hints (light bitterness and black pepper).

Intensity — the characteristics of tastes and aromas are quite pronounced and easily distinguishable. However, the wine seems a little brighter to the taste.

Complexity — an interesting, multifaceted profile with a dominant ripe red fruit, complemented by a variety of spices and herbs.

Expression — we can say that this wine reflects the specifics of Kakheti wines from the Saperavi variety, as evidenced by its rich color and taste, body, as well as pronounced spiciness.

When and what to drink with: this wine requires a serious dish. Rare beef steak with grand veneur sauce, for example, shashlik or grilled lamb – would be a good choice. However, you should not choose too hot a sauce, which can make the tannins harsh or rough and add an unpleasant bitterness to the taste. White poultry meat will be too neutral for this wine, but red meat (duck, goose, small game) is quite suitable.

Unlike the previous Saperavi from Kakheti (Zurab Tseriteli 2015), this wine can withstand not only traditional beef, but also the more pronounced and specific taste of game.

My gastronomic experiment

This time I decided to move a little away from traditional Georgian cuisine. The menu included Russian pies with cabbage and meat, mushroom and chestnut pâté, Bazas beef steak with polenta and pesto made from fresh herbs and walnuts.

It must be said that the pâté was not the best choice, as the sweet chestnuts and mushrooms with an umami element slightly changed the taste of the wine for the worse. But the meat and pesto were quite appropriate. Surprisingly, the spicy aged Ossau Iraty sheep cheese also went well with this wine.

Contents:

1. The birthplace of Saperavi – Kakheti
2. Description of the soil
3. Grape varieties of Kakheti
4. Characteristics and assessment of Saperavi wine
5. Assessment according to the BLICE principle

The historical region of Kakheti is perhaps the most famous and most important wine region of Georgia: about 70% of the total area of vineyards is located in Kakheti, and the volume of production is about 80% of all wine in Georgia. Kakheti occupies 11,300 sq. km. (and the area of vineyards is measured in tens of thousands of hectares) and is geographically located in the southeast of the country, in the northeast it borders with Russia (from which it is separated by the Caucasus Mountain Range), in the west – with the region of Kartli (and also with a natural border running along the mountain range), and in the south – with Azerbaijan. From the southwest to the northeast of Kakheti runs the Tsivi-Gombori Range, which divides it into Outer and Inner Kakheti. Inner Kakheti is a smooth slope descending into the Alazani Valley – the largest valley in Georgia and a source of excellent wines. The length of the Alazani Valley is 160 km, the width varies from 5 to 40 km, and the altitude above sea level – from 200 meters on the southwestern border with Azerbaijan to 740 meters in the northwestern foothills of the Caucasus. Mountain rivers also contributed to the formation of the relief of Inner Kakheti – due to constant erosion, the mountain slopes have different exposures.
Outer Kakheti is located on a hill, in the valley of the Iori River – the main waterway of Georgia.

Climatic features of Kakheti

In general, the climate of Kakheti is moderate, and in its warmest places – subtropical, with hot summers and warm winters (the total annual temperature is from 3800 to 4000 °C, which is approximately the same as in the south of France). The vegetation period lasts about 210 days with an average temperature of 18.5 °C.
Kakheti is located farthest from the Black Sea, and therefore is least affected by it: the average temperature and amount of precipitation (400-800 mm) are lower here than in the west of the country. In addition, due to the proximity of the Caucasus Mountains, cold air masses descending from them further reduce the temperature and relative humidity. This effect is especially felt in the microzones in the foothills of the Caucasus Mountains.
Kakheti is located in the upper reaches of the Ioni and Alazani rivers, which, together with their tributaries, soften the difference between day and night temperatures and slightly increase the humidity of the surrounding air.
Thus, it is difficult to find a single definition for the climate of Kakheti. Rather, it is a whole mosaic of macroclimates, each of which determines one of the 14 microzones, and is also responsible for the uniqueness of their wines. For example, the legendary Alazani Valley, which I will talk about a little further, includes several microzones: Kindzmarauli, Tsinandali, Gurjaani and Akhasheni. The entire list of microzones of Kakheti producing wines with protected geographical indications is as follows: Akhasheni, Vazisubani, Gurjaani, Kardenakhi, Kvareli, Kindzmarauli, Kotekhi, Manavi, Mukuzani, Napareuli, Teliani, Tibaani, Tsinandali and Kakheti. I will also dwell on some of them in more detail a little later. And, finally, the characteristics of the macroclimate in different microzones are influenced by the location and orientation of the slopes on which the vineyards are planted. The vineyards of Tsinandali, for example, face north, which slightly reduces the daytime air temperature and a generous number of hours of sunlight and heat. This position allows white varieties to maintain a good level of acidity during ripening and not accumulate too much sugar, which would turn into an alcohol level that is too high for white wine during fermentation. In other words, cooler places are preferred for white varieties, so as not to get too heavy and inharmonious dry white wine. Despite all these favorable conditions for winemaking, some natural phenomena (hail and showers with strong winds in spring and autumn, drought in summer and very rare frosts) sometimes pose a threat to the current year’s harvest.

Soils of Kakheti

Soils of Kakheti are also unique. In the foothills, on the right bank of the Alazani River, brown forest and meadow soils predominate, rich in microelements (especially iron, which gives them a brownish tint) and representing clay soils with a sandy and calcareous component. Carbonate-humus soils are also found here, on which vineyards for vintage wines are also located.
On the left bank of the Alazani, the soils are carbonate-alluvial, chernozem, meadow and alluvial-meadow, well suited for viticulture.
Alluvial soils with loam and sandy structure are found on both banks of the Alazani River.
Soils of Kakheti have an important characteristic for obtaining high-quality grapes – despite their richness in microelements, they contain few nutritious organic substances, because the dry climate does not allow them to linger on the soil surface and promotes their rapid decomposition. Because of this, the vines are forced to develop a deep root system to reach water and the necessary nutrients. Thus, the vine focuses on ripening the berries, which has a beneficial effect on the quality of the grapes, and, reaching the water source, is saturated with microelements and minerals, which has a beneficial effect on the organoleptic profile of the wine. Due to this combination of environmental conditions, the wines are rich, full-bodied and tannic, with a special, earthy aroma, which is given to it by the iron contained in the soil

Grape varieties grown in Kakheti

• Saperavi

The Saperavi variety can be said to be a symbol of Georgia and is best known to lovers of Georgian wines. It is most widely distributed not only in Kakheti (where it originates), but also throughout Georgia.
Saperavi is one of the few varieties that has not only red skin, but also red flesh, which gives wines from this variety a rich and deep color. Saperavi is also valued for its resistance to cold, relative productivity, and a fairly high level of tannins and acidity, which allow Saperavi wines to withstand many years of maturation in the bottle. The last two characteristics are also valued in the assemblage of Saperavi with other varieties, as they give the latter a good structure and aging potential.
Saperavi is used to produce a number of wines of different styles: red and pink, dry or semi-sweet, made in the classic way with aging in qvevri or in the modern way – in oak barrels.

• Rkatsiteli

The white variety Rkatsiteli occupies the same important place in Kakheti, and in all of Georgia, as Saperavi. This frost-resistant variety is able to maintain a fairly high level of acidity at high temperatures and produce refreshing dry white wines, and at the same time mature to high sugar levels, allowing Rkatsiteli to be used for making semi-sweet wines. This variety is even used to produce fortified wines and brandy.

As I already mentioned, the diversity of grape growing conditions in Kakheti allows for the production of different wines that have received protected geographical indications. The most famous of them – Mukuzani, Kindzmarauli, Napareuli and Tsinandali – should be discussed in more detail, which I will do in separate articles with examples of wines and tasting. Here I will also tell you a little about the Alazani Valley, which is sometimes called the “Tuscany of Georgia”. This legendary region is named after the clear Alazani River, which flows through a picturesque valley surrounded by mountain ranges. The Alazani Valley is located at an altitude of 200-500 meters and has favorable climate conditions and soils for viticulture, which I mentioned above. However, unlike the microzones of Kindzmarauli or Tsinandali, the “Alazani Valley” is not a protected name for a wine region. Moreover, almost all of this wine is exported, and the wine itself belongs to the budget segment and is not of high quality. The production of “Alazani Valley”, a semi-sweet white (from the Rkatsiteli variety) or red (from Saperavi, to which a small amount of red Aleksandrouli or Ojaleshi varieties is sometimes added) wine with low acidity, began in 1977, when the Georgian wine industry was going through hard times, which affected the quality of this wine. Moreover, in the 2000s, counterfeit “Alazani Valley” entered the Russian market, which further undermined its reputation. After the embargo imposed on Georgian wines from 2006 to 2013, their production technologies improved, which had a positive effect on the quality of wines under the “Alazani Valley” brand. Today, its quality depends on the producer, but the correct wine can be found.

Tasting. Zurab Tsereteli. Saperavi 2015. Kakheti. Expert review of the Georgian wine Saperavi.

So I got to Saperavi from Kakheti, once bought at the Moscow airport, and the article about Kakheti is just what I needed to open it for a visual example. The microzone was not indicated on the label, which suggests that the grapes can come from different parts of Kakheti. This is not to say that this is bad, French merchants work on the same principle to maintain a constant supply, to avoid inconsistent quantity and quality of the harvest due to the inconsistency of the weather, and sometimes to obtain a complex and sophisticated bouquet.
So, here’s what I got based on my table.

Color: ruby, medium intensity, with light garnet reflections.

Aroma: medium intensity, very fruity (black fruits: black cherry, black plum, blueberry, red fruits: red plum, red currant), with a hint of spice (white pepper, liquorice) and oak (cocoa).

Taste: dry, medium-bodied wine with above-average acidity, above-average soft tannins, intensity above average flavours (flavours roughly match the bouquet of aromas: black cherry, red plum, red currant, licorice, but fruity nuances are expressed more vividly), the alcohol level is average and well integrated into the overall flavour profile, the aftertaste is average, with pleasant fruity nuances.

Overall impression and quality assessment: a good wine, with a pleasant, mainly fruity organoleptic profile, some complexity in the bouquet (most aromas are primary, but there are also well-integrated secondary aromas from oak aging). The aromas are delicate, not very pronounced, but the wine reveals itself better on the palate. The attack is soft and fruity, the wine is easy to drink, has a refreshing acidity, pleasant tannins, harmoniously fitting into the medium body of the wine and the average alcohol level. However, the aftertaste of this Saperavi is of medium length, which, together with the medium body and generally medium intensity of aromas and flavors, indicates a medium concentration and the possibility of aging for another 2-3 years.

BLICE quality rating:

Balance – a harmonious bouquet of aromas and flavors, where the fruits are complemented and not interrupted by hints of spices and oak, medium body and alcohol level are delicately combined with acidity and tannins above average, indicating that the wine is generally balanced
Length – average aftertaste length
Intensity– average intensity of aromas, but the flavors are expressed more vividly (intensity above average)
Complexity – there are primary (fruit) and secondary shades (oak and spices), and the primary shades dominate and are more varied, although they are represented by only two groups of red and black fruits – we can say that the wine has some complexity of the organoleptic profile
Expression – Saperavi, typical for its lighter and fresher style and higher plantings

Aging potential rating: a good quality wine, harmonious and enjoyable at the moment. I wouldn’t put it off for more than 2-3 years, as it doesn’t have enough structure and concentration for long-term aging, but is distinguished by a fresh and fruity style.

For what occasion and with what dishes: a simple but enjoyable wine that would be perfect for a picnic with kebabs and grilled steak (beef or lamb). If we move away from the classics, then a red tuna steak or white meat with red wine sauce. The most popular pairing of red wine with cheeses is less obvious here. Camembert and Brie risk giving a bitter taste due to the reaction of enzymes on their rind and the tannins of red wine (this also applies to other cheeses with a washed or blooming rind, especially if they are aged). Restrained hard cheeses (Emmental, Gruyere or young Comte) are also not an ideal pairing, but, nevertheless, more suitable for red wine. As for fresh cow and goat cheeses, they can be too delicate and “disappear” behind the taste of red wine.
I tried this Saperavi with baked leg of lamb under Georgian nut sauce bazhe and with Imeretian khachapuri. It turned out to be a quite harmonious combination: the wine withstood the specific taste of lamb and even the garlic in the sauce.

Photo 1 and 2: https://gruziapro.ru/kahetija-zhemchuzhina-gruzii/
Photo 3: https://georgiaintrend.com/ru/tours/wine-weekend/