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This is how my Primeurs 2021 Week have started in the Château Latour-Martillac

Tasting notes

Château Bouscaut – white (45% Semillon, 55% Sauvignon Blanc): ripe and open flavours with hints of apricot, wild flowers, honey and vanilla. Medium body and medium (+) length of aftertaste with high acidity, medium level of alcohol, which is balanced with the overall character of the wine. Red (40% Merlot, 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot) is an elegant and fresh wine with a medium body and red fruit bouquet (strawberry, raspberry, cherry), completed by vanilla. The aftertaste is slightly shorter than the white, but quite concentrated, with pleasant acidity.

Château Brown – white (60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon): Excellent structure and balanced bouquet with crisp acidity, citrus, stone fruit and full body. At the same time, the lingering aftertaste is fresh and adds elegance to the wine. Red (53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot): Clean, fruity aromas (red cherry, red plum, raspberry) with vanilla notes, medium body and firm, but velvety and not drying tannins. Quite long and juicy aftertaste.

Château Cantelys – red (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot): Cabernet Sauvignon characteristics in the bouquet (blackcurrant, black cherry, herbal notes), good balance of acidity and alcohol.

Château Carbonniex – white (65% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Semillon): bright fresh profile composed mainly of citrus, zest and flowers, with light hints of spice. Promising potential for development. Red (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot): the bouquet shows all the characteristics of the assemblage – blackcurrant and cherry from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, spices and flowers (peony, violet) from Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Strong tannin structure and high acidity.

Château Carmes Haut Brion – red (25% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon) – bouquet of flowers (violet) and black and red berries (blackcurrant, cherry). The tannins are firm and strong, but may well soften in the future, giving this wine excellent ageing potential.

Château Carrosse Martillac is a red (50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot). The bouquet is composed mainly of red and black fruits, with delicate spicy hints of liquorice and high acidity, which shows in the aftertaste.

Domaine de Chevalier – white (70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon): rich texture and complex bouquet with hints of wild flowers, nectarine, lemon, spices and vanilla. High acidity and a long aftertaste. Red (63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 2 Cabernet Franc): with all its woody notes (cinnamon, toast, liquorice), the wine develops fresh notes of red fruit, a long and fresh mouthfeel and high acidity. Promising ageing potential.

Château Lespault-Martillac – red (60% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot): Blackcurrant, black plum, violet in the bouquet, high acidity and strong tannins, supported by a medium body and long finish.

Château Couhins – White (96% Sauvignon Blanc, 4% Sauvignon Gris): expressive citrus notes (lemon zest, grapefruit) on the palate and aroma, great concentration and lingering aftertaste with spice notes. Red (46% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot): Open fruit attack with juicy red berries, excellent structure and complex aftertaste with spicy notes.

Château Couhins-Lurton – white (100% Sauvignon Blanc): multi-faceted bouquet of ripe citrus and stone fruit (lemon, nectarine, peach) with integrated woody tones and delicate hints of sweet spices (vanilla, cloves). The taste is ripe and full-bodied, with high acidity. Red (90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon): Unlike many 2021s, this is a red dominated by Merlot, which despite a difficult year, was sufficiently ripe, structured, with firm but integrated tannins, high acidity, and typical Merlot hints of cherry, plum and menthol.

Château de Cruzeau – white (100% Sauvignon Blanc): lighter style than the Château Couhins-Lurton, bouquet composed mainly of citrus fruits (lemon, lime, lime zest, grapefruit) with high acidity. Red (53% Merlot 47% Cabernet Sauvignon): The bouquet of aromas and flavours consists mainly of fresh red berries, lighter than the Château Couhins-Lurton and with a slightly shorter aftertaste.

Château de Rochemorin – White (100% Sauvignon Blanc): ripe and balanced bouquet with notes of orange, candied lemon, white peach, acacia flowers, high acidity, long finish and good ageing potential. Red (30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 61% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc) is lighter in profile than the other Vignobles Lurton wines, with a bouquet of red berries and high acidity.

Château la Louvière – white (100% Sauvignon Blanc): recognizable rich style with a buttery texture, a long finish which seems to be slightly sweet because of the richness of the wine, hints of ripe stone fruit, vanilla and smoky nuances, more noticeable than the Château de Rochemorin, high acidity and excellent balance. Red (65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon): the majority of the blend is Merlot, but the profile is quite ripe, with pronounced but velvety tannins, high acidity and medium alcohol.

Château d’Eyran – white (65% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Semillon) – expressive aromatics (citrus, spices, smoky undertones), open fruit attack, but medium-long aftertaste. Red (45% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot) – ripe berry bouquet with subtle spicy notes, soft texture, integrated alcohol level.

Château Ferran – white (80% Sauvignon Blanc and 29% Semillon) – aroma a bit closed, citrusy with hints of vanilla and toast. Taste is more open, with hints of candied fruit, lemon peel and stone fruit. Good balance and high acidity. The red (77% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Petit Verdot) is seems to be also closed, with restrained aromatics and a bitter finish.

Château Fieuzal – white (70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon) – bright aromatics, a ripe bouquet with hints of candied lemon, wild flowers and vanilla. The taste is fresh, with high acidity. Red (45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot): Ripe profile (cherry, plum, blackcurrant), long finish and velvety tannins.

Château la Garde – white (85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Semillon): balanced, predominantly citrus profile (lemon, zest, grapefruit), high acidity and long aftertaste.

Château d’Eck – White (50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Semillon): citrus bouquet, lemon, lime, grapefruit, light bitterness in the aftertaste, high refreshing acidity. Red (70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot) – fresh and balanced profile with a bouquet of red berries and high acidity. A delicate and pleasant wine.

Château Haut-Nouchet – Red (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc): The palate and aroma are woody, but with ample fruit and floral support.

Château Lafargue – white (80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris): the aroma is bright, citrusy, with strong hints of wild flowers and tropical fruits. Long aftertaste and buttery texture, thanks to the Sauvignon Gris. Red (60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot): more restrained and closed, with firm but integrated tannins. The bouquet combines red berries, spices and woody nuances.

Château Larrivet Haut-Brion – white (80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon): expressive aromas of citrus (lemon, zest, grapefruit) and stone fruit (nectarine). Exotic fruit (pineapple) on the palate, a rich, buttery texture balanced by high acidity. Red (45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc): ripe, balanced profile with berry and spicy notes, refreshing acidity and a long finish.

Château Latour-Martillac – white (55% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% Semillon): high acidity, bright lemon notes (juice and zest) with hints of wild flowers, long finish. A bright wine with excellent ageing potential. Red (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot): a balanced, fresh profile with red fruit, spices (pepper, vanilla, cloves), a long finish and elegant structure.

Château Léognan – restrained but ripe aromatics (blackcurrant, cherry, plum) with hints of barrel aging (liquorice), high acidity and firm, dry tannins.

Château Luchey-Halde – white (37% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% Semillon, 18% Sauvignon Gris): Juicy bouquet, with light spicy nuances (green apple, lemon, nutmeg). The taste is full-bodied, matching the aromatics and balanced by high acidity.

Château Malartic-Lagraviere – white (80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon): refreshing lemon bouquet, with floral and spicy notes, high crisp acidity, delicate and fresh profile with a refined aftertaste. Red (45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot): in the same elegant style, bouquet of fresh red and black berries, medium (+) acidity and medium body.

Château Mancedre – red (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot): black berries (blackcurrant, black cherry), spices (pepper, cloves), herbs (thyme). The woody nuances are well integrated, the aftertaste is long and refreshing.

Château Olivier – white (75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon): this wine is one with the most pronounced barrel flavours (vanilla, toast, pastry), but quite balanced and integrated into the citrus-floral bouquet. Medium body, high acidity and a long aftertaste. Red (38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 60% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot): the bouquet shows a combination of red and black berries, freshness and high acidity. Hints of wood are less prominent than in the white wine.

Château Pape Clement – white (75% Sauvignon Blanc, 22% Semillon, 2% Sauvignon Gris and 1% Muscadel): A very full-bodied profile, combining stone fruit (peach, apricot), sweet spices (vanilla, clove) and citrus fruits. The aftertaste is long, with high acidity and a slight bitterness of grapefruit. Red (49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot): Has a noticeable tannins and concentration, a ripe bouquet with berries (red and black cherry, red plum) and spices, high acidity and a long finish.

Château Pont Saint-Martin – white (48% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris, 2% Muscadel): Complex assemblage and complex profile, with interesting aromas combining stone and citrus fruit, spices (nutmeg) and wild flowers.

Château Roche-Lalande – white (48% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris, 2% Muscadel) is a complex blend that creates a multi-faceted and rich bouquet of wild flowers, spices, citrus and stone fruit and an elegant structure with a medium body and high acidity.

Château de Rouillac– white (70% Sauvignon Blanc, 16% Semillon, 14% Sauvignon Gris): The wine has an enveloping, buttery texture, balanced by high acidity. The bouquet is full of stone and tropical fruit, spices and light barrel nuances. Red (50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon) – noticeable tannins, but sufficient acidity and juicy fruit. On the whole, it is well balanced.

Overall impression on the vintage 2021 in Pessac-Léognan

White wines :

• Nose and bouquet: the aromas are bright, rich in citrus fruits especially in single-variety Sauvignon Blanc wines. There are notes of lemon, lime, grapefruit, citrus zest and subtlety in the mouth. In blends (Sauvignon Blanc with Semillon in most examples, and with Sauvignon Gris or Muscadelle) the bouquet is completed by sweeter, rounder notes of stone fruits, white flowers and mild spices. The wood is delicate in almost all the wines, with a few exceptions, where it requires more time to integrate.
• Palate and structure in the mouth: fresh, with high acidity, which gives them a refined and elegant profile. Good length in the mouth and good concentration of flavours. Body and alcohol are at the average level.
• Ageing potential: promising, high acidity and concentration of aromatic components give these wines great ageing potential and the prospect of a long evolution towards a complex and balanced profile.

Overall, the white wines of Pessac-Léognan are successful and the 2021 vintage will be a great one for them.

Red wines :

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From 25 to 28 April 2022, for the first time since the pandemic restrictions, the Bordeaux Vintage Week – la Semaine des Primeurs – took place in its usual format – with international wine professionals and big tastings. Living in Bordeaux, I could not miss the opportunity to discover the result of work of winemakers during the difficult 2021 vintage. This article is going to focus on its characteristics, with the tasting notes, which I will gradually add in the following parts.
Before moving on to an analysis of the climatic conditions for 2021, let us recall what is needed for a great vintage for red wines of Bordeaux:

• Warm, dry weather during the flowering and fruit set – essential for even flower formation followed by successful pollination, which will ensure the necessary volume of the crop, harmonious berry formation and even berry ripening. Rainy, cloudy weather will make flower formation and pollination difficult. It will also shorten the ripening period and reduce the volume of the grapes, and the formation of berries will start later and will be slower.
• Some water stress in July before berry ripening – véraison – is necessary to stop the growth of the vine, which will then concentrate itself on fruit ripening rather than increasing the foliage.
• Sunny weather with moderate precipitation – is needed for proper, uniform ripening of berries – excessive moisture will increase the volume of juice, diluting the bouquet of the future wine, while an important lack of moisture (water stress) will stop photosynthesis, which in turn will stop the accumulation of sugar in the grapes
• Warm sunny weather before and during the harvest, with little rainfall and fresh nights, will allow the grapes to reach optimum ripeness without the risk of grey rot and a dilution of the bouquet (if it rains) or a decreasing of acidity (if temperatures at night are not low enough)

What 2021 Bordeaux vintage was like

The first feature is a rather unusual weather in winter. December 2020 and January 2021 were marked by heavy rainfall and changing of temperature, alternating warm and cold periods. But average temperatures remained close to their standard value. Temperatures in February, on the other hand, were almost the highest of the last 50 years. The beginning and end of March were also very warm for an early spring, but the middle of the month was cooler, balancing the temperature averages.
However, following prolonged periods of unusual heat, the soil warmed up sufficiently for the bud break to appear on the vines by the end of March, and for blossoms – in early April, which was also marked by high temperatures. The next 10 days were colder than usual, and on 7-8 April frost hit the Bordeaux vineyard, affecting all vintages. Before the next frost in early May, the weather was warm and dry from April 25th. Vine accelerated its growth during the warming period and slowed it during the frost.
Conditions in May and June – heavy rains alternating with periods of heat – caused vineyard diseases, especially mildew, almost everywhere in Bordeaux.
June began with a period of dryness and heat, which allowed flowering and berries formation in favourable conditions. However, subsequent episodes of thunderstorms and hail with hot and humid weather caused an outbreak of mildew on vines. In some parts of the region, the level of cumulated precipitations in June was close to the two-month norm, and some areas was devastated by hail. Therefore, by the end of the month, depending on the location in the region, the vines were at different stages of their cycle – on some of them bunches just started to form and on some they were already clearly visible.
Thus, thanks to favourable conditions the conditions – warm weather without excessive rainfall – for flowering in vintage 2021 were successful. But after fruit set, because of thunderstorms the weather was hot and humid, which caused development of vine diseases and forced winemakers to apply treatment on vines more frequently.
July was not the hottest summer month as it usually is. Apart from the first sunny days and the third week of the month, July was cool and humid, with almost daily rains. As a result, average monthly temperatures were 1-2 degrees below normal and the amount of sunshine was 10-15% lower than average value. Under such conditions, mildew continued to develop on bunches and not just on leaves.
In addition, due to the lack of water stress, the vines continued to grow and the berries continued to cumulate juice instead of entering the first stage of ripening – véraison, or color change. Ripening began by mid-August, in cool but already drier conditions.
Unlike three previous vintages (2018, 2019,2020), there was no extreme heat in summer of 2021, on the contrary, the average temperatures of July and August were below their average values. Therefore, the technical maturity of the grapes (sugar content) was reaching slowly, and by the end of August the berries still possessed fairly high malic acid content, and consequently a high level of acidity.
Thus, the conditions to stop the vine growth in the beginning of ripening and slight water stress were not satisfied for the red varieties in 2021. Due to frequent rainfall and cool weather, the vines continued to grow, increasing size of berries, which was also above average.
The end of August, warm but not hot, dry and sunny, accelerated the ripening of the grapes and the decreasing of acidity, but the sugar accumulation was still slow.
The white grape varieties began harvesting in late August (Sauvignon Blanc) and continued until the third week of September (Semillon).
September, on the other hand, was the warmest since 2000, under the influence of the anticyclone and thick clouds which maintained night-time temperatures above normal. Under such conditions Merlot continued to ripen, at first quite rapidly, then more slowly, failing to achieve the desired level of anthocyanins (colouring agents) by the period of harvest. Merlot’s sugar content also remained below normal, and acidity was one of the highest of the last 10 years. Harvesting of Merlot began in late September and ended in early October, just before to the rainy period, as winemakers were worried about a possible deterioration of grapes health due to their thin skins and the development of grey rot. As a result, the grapes of Merlot did not reach their optimum level of maturity.
Therefore, for Merlot, the conditions of dry, warm weather at the end of the season and at harvest time were not satisfied. July was rainy, which favoured the swelling of the grapes, and the generally cool summer 2021 slowed down their ripening. In addition, because of autumn rains prior to harvest, the Merlot was harvested earlier than it could reach its optimum ripeness. So, the last vintage of Merlot was not particularly favourable.
For Cabernet Sauvignon the 2021 vintage was different. As this variety has a thicker skin and requires a longer ripening period, it could benefit better conditions (dry, sunny late-season ripening and harvesting period) in October 2021, the sunniest since 1991 – with warm days, cool nights and no excessive rainfall. The profile of the Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 was also quite different from last vintages – with less sugar content (hence lower alcohol levels) and higher acidity.
Thus, the Cabernet Sauvignon enjoyed more favourable conditions than the Merlot, and therefore the 2021 vintage was globally more successful for this variety. However, due to the heterogeneity of the terroir, not all Bordeaux sites achieved the same results.
For its red varieties, the 2021 vintage has the following characteristics:

• Larger berry size than the average of the last 5 years
• Lower sugar content
• Higher acidity

Sweet wines of Sauternes

For sweet wines of Sauternes the 2021 vintage was even more difficult as the vines of this appellation were affected by frosts In April, then heavy rains in May and hail in June. The relatively cool and dry late summer slowed the emergence and spread of noble rot. Rains in late September helped it to appear and develop on ripe grapes with high levels of acidity. The first warm, dry period in early October increased the concentration of aromatics of berries, but the subsequent selection was not enough fruitfull as the noble rot had just begun to develop on berries . Two following “tris” allowed to increase the volume of harvest and select berries at an optimum stage of noble rot development. Thus the sweet wines of Sauternes of 2021 vintage are exceptional, but rare, because of a low level oif crop.

The characteristics of the (future) wines of 2021

Dry white wines – a vintage with a cool summer usually mean an excellent vintage for white dry wines, as the white grapes have time to mature, retaining the acidity and bright aromatics of a variety. The 2021 vintage is not an exception from this rule. The Sauvignon Blanc harvest was exceptional, ripe and aromatic. For the second major Bordeaux white wine – Semillon – the 2021 vintage was more difficult, but on the most suitable terroir this variety also produced excellent results.
Sweet white wines – very small volume of crop, but exceptional quality. At the end of the season, which is longer for the grapes used to produce botrytized wines, the weather conditions were unfavourable, causing grey rot to develop. For this reason, winemaked needed to proceed to a very strict selection of berries,reducing the volume of crop. But the resulting wines surpassed all expectations – full-bodied, complex, with high acidity, necessary to obtain perfect balance in sweet wines.
Dry red wines – the 2021 vintage was more difficult for Merlot than to Cabernet Sauvignon due to cool summer, late halt of foliage growth (which slowed down its ripening) and rains before the harvest. This is why some of the Right Bank wines of 2021, based on Merlot, lack concentration, their tannins seem harsh and the acidity seems too high in comparison to the bouquet and body. On the other hand, Merlot 2021 has a lower and more integrated alcohol level, comparing to the last three vintages. The Cabernet Sauvignon, which ripens later, took advantage of warm temperatures in mid-autumn and completed its ripening. This variety, particularly those grown on gravelly soils, gave depth, concentration and great tannic structure to the wines in assemblage. Due to the fact that Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 is more successful than Merlot, winemakers have generally included Cabernet in greater proportions in the blend.

Conclusion

Vintage 2021 was difficult for winemakers due to the cool, wet summer, variable weather at the end of the season and important disease problems. However, it produced some very successful results on both banks of Bordeaux, particularly for the white wines. It is also important to note that the 2021 wines approached Bordeaux classics, with high acidity, medium body and medium level of alcohol, differently to the last three vintages wines after which we have become accustomed to the power and a full body in Bordeaux wines.

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What vintage 2019 was like in Bordeaux

Year 2019, despite the beginning of pandemic and the following difficult sanitary context, complemented a series of very successful Bordeaux vintages (although not without difficulties for winemakers). Year 2019 combined many of the conditions of an outstanding vintage :

• Warm and dry weather during the flowering and fruit set for even flower formation and successful pollination. A rainy and cloudy weather may cause bad formation of inflorescences, which may cause, in its turn, a difficult pollination. Consequently, the volume of the crop will be lower, grape berries will form more slowly and their ripening period will be shortened.
• A little water stress in July before the berries start to ripen, because it will halt the growth of the vine, which will then concentrate itself on ripening the fruit rather than increasing its foliage.
• Sunny weather and moderate rainfall, which will ensure proper and uniform ripening of berries – excessive precipitations will increase volume of juice in berries and dilute the bouquet of future wine. But deficiency of water will stop photosynthesis and, consequently, ripening and accumulation of sugar in berries.
• Sunny and warm weather before harvest, with little precipitation and fresh nights, which will allow the grapes to reach optimum maturity, without the risk of grey rot and dilution of the bouquet (in rainy weather) or low acidity (if day and night temperatures are warm)

In 2019, the first condition was only partially met.
The first three months saw very warm and mild winter weather, with most of the precipitation falling in January, the only winter month in which average temperatures did not exceed the norm. March, on the other hand, was distinguished by generous sunshine and markedly less precipitation (-70% of the monthly norm).
Due to the warm winter and sunny start of spring, the buds on the vines opened a week earlier than usual (in mid-March), but the cool weather and precipitation slowed down the growth of the vines.
Early June, the flowering period, was also marked by cool and wet conditions, so that flowering was not only uniform, if we look on the whole Bordeaux appellation. Some vineyards had problems of flower drop or erratic pollination, which subsequently resulted in uneven berry formation or berry drop within the bunches.
A period of summer heat and drought began in mid-June, but the water reserves accumulated in soil in spring prevented the vine from stopping growth and provided good conditions for the start of fruit formation.
July 2019 was generally dry and warm, with a sporadic and brief but abundant rainfall in form of thunderstorms in some parts of the region. This difference, together with differences in soil composition, caused uneven stopping of vine growth, often after the optimum moment for this. So ripening of the grapes (even of the same variety) was not simultaneous in Bordeaux region. Soils with good drainage were able to provide sufficient water stress and an optimal start to ripening. But on the soils retaining more water, growth of vines stopped later, delaying the start of ripening.
The weather in August alternated between hot and cool periods, which contributed to an optimal ripening process.
The first half of September was dry and hot, which caused some water stress. Thus, the delayed beginning of ripening in some parts of Bordeaux was compensated by the warm start of September. Red varieties thus cumulated colour, aromatics and soften the tannins. On the other hand, the increasing rainfall towards the end of the month prevented excessive water stress and berry ripening for the late-ripening varieties, which grow on soils with good drainage.
Such conditions contributed to the slow ripening of the berries, which is an another sign of successful vintage.
The optimum amount of rainfall fell during the last decade of September, completing the ripening process without the high risk of grey rot.
Thus, the Merlot variety successfully completed ripening by the end of September and the Cabernet was harvested in excellent condition. In 2019, as in 2018, the last two conditions were met, resulting in a red grape harvest of excellent quality.
The harvest of white grapes was completed by 23 September, before the rains that fell at the end of the month. Despite of the hot summer, which does not usually mean a good vintage for the white varieties, the white vines did not suffer from excessive water stress. Therefore, the grapes were harvested in excellent condition, with sufficient sugar content, excellent acidity and wonderful aromatics, essential for the balance of wines and their potential for ageing.

As for the sweet wines of Sauternes, which are the result of the noble Botrytis Cinerea rot ‘working’ on grapes, its emergence was delayed by warm and dry weather (which, on the other hand, is favourable for the ripening of red varieties). In some places grey rot appeared in the vineyard and had to be removed in order to avoid it spreading throughout the vineyard. The rains at the end of September accelerated the spread of noble on the perfectly ripe berries, so the concentration of sugar and aromatics in the berries increased quite rapidly. Most of the grapes was harvested before mid-October, thanks to the winemakers’ efforts and careful sorting of the grapes. As a result, the 2019 vintage for sweet wines was not the most voluminous, but of very high quality – with clean aromatics and good concentration.

Vintage effect depending on grape variety

Merlot – the grapes were harvested a little earlier than usual, but not as early as in 2018. For optimum Merlot ripening, late August and early September are crucial, with the usual harvest period in the second half of September. In 2019, the characteristics of the wines based on Merlot depend on the winemaker’s choice of harvest period – before or after the rains of the third week of September. That said, the overall sugar content of Merlot berries was quite high, even higher than in 2018, but at the same time – with a higher level of acidity. The skin of Merlot berries was quit dense in 2019, and filled with a significant amount of anthocyanins during ripening, which gave the wines a rich colour. On the other hand, due to periods of rain in August and September, the berry pips did not reach the maturity level of 2018. Overall, for the 2019 Merlot, conditions of dry but not hot weather during ripening and harvesting were satisfied, resulting in a successful and high-quality harvest of this variety.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc – harvesting started immediately after Merlot and rains of the end of September. Most of the work took place in the first decade of October, in ideal conditions for grape harvesting – daytime temperatures around 20°C, generous sunshine, rare rainfall and windy weather allowing the berries to dry within a few hours after rain. Compared to 2018, the Cabernet berries were smaller but with comparable levels of sugar content, higher acidity, richer colour and higher levels of tannins. They also exhibited great aromatics, although the bouquet did not appear immediately, due to differences in colour at the beginning of ripening. The pips reached maturity just before the harvest. Thus, thanks to the September rains, the Cabernet Sauvignon continued to mature, so favourable conditions for a great vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon were also satisfied.

Sweet wines of Sauternes

Compared to the other Bordeaux appellations, Sauternes received more rainfall in July due to thunderstorms at the end of July. During this period, 100mm of rainfall accumulated in this appellation. The humidity that they created, together with the hot August weather, provoked grey rot in areas where water stagnated on the surface. At the same time, in plots with good drainage, the berries sometimes were able to dry out. Thus, many estates had to “clean” the vineyards and remove damaged berries, which naturally affected the volume of the crop. This treatment, however, created more favourable conditions for the emergence of noble rot, which appeared after the rains in the second half of September on ripe and clean berries. It spread and developed quite rapidly and the harvest was also accelerated and was ready before the next rainy period in mid-October. The berries harvested later were of lower quality and less concentrated because they had absorbed the precipitated moisture. Therefore they did not go into the production of sweet wines. Because of these conditions, the production volume of Sauternes wines in 2019 was quite low.

Characteristics of the 2019 wines

Dry whites – very successful, with characteristic hints of ripe Sauvignon Blanc (grapefruit, lemon), exotic notes and the soft texture of ripe Semillon and, at the same time, surprisingly fresh.
Sweet whites – clean and aromatic, with a high sugar level, but not heavy, with a fresh aftertaste and high acidity, thanks to the tough sorting due to the unfavourable weather conditions of 2019.
Reds – heterogeneous, more or less successful depending on the part of the region, so it is difficult to describe the 2019 vintage for red Bordeaux in one word. Merlot was quit successful, with bright aromas of cherry, ripe plum and blackberry, soft texture and velvety tannins. This technical and phenolic maturity could be achieved thanks to the rains at the end of September. Sugar content and alcohol levels were high, confirming the general trend of increasing sugar content in the berries observed during last years. But wines were balances, thanks to the high acidity of the berries, bringing the 2019 vintage closer to classic Bordeaux.

Cabernets, again thanks to moderate rains and a fairly warm end to the season, were harvested at optimum maturity and in excellent sanitary condition. Globally speaking, these do not reach the level of richness of exceptional vintages, but possess a bright, fruity bouquet and pronounced tannin structure. The best results have been achieved on the most suitable soils for Cabernet with a deep gravel layer.
Next article will speak about my tasting of 2019 vintage of Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, illustrating the particularities of this vintage.

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What appellations come to mind when we talk about the vineyards of the South-West of France? First of all, this is Bordeaux, although this opinion is not complet.
From an administrative point of view, the famous vineyard of Bordeaux is a part of this region, but in the context of winemaking, it stands apart due to the volume of its production and its vast area.

The southwest of France has several protected appellations of origin (AOP) and protected geographical indications (IGP):

• Madiran
• Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh
• Cahors
• Gaillac
• Bergerac
• Pecharmant
• Monbazillac
• …and that’s not all, apart from protected geographical indications.

Many of them grow the same varieties as Bordeaux, but of course, their autochthonous varieties are more interesting. However, their wines are almost unknown outside of France for an historical reason.
Bordeaux merchants considered wines fron these regions as concurents for Bordeaux wines and feared that the richer and more powerful beverages of the “inland” would force Bordeaux wines out of the international market. Then the merchants took advantage of the privileged geographical position of the city of Bordeaux itself. The only way to the Atlantic Ocean and, accordingly, the way to overseas markets was the port of Bordeaux. So savvy merchants imposed high duties on any other wines, that Bordeaux, which would like to explore foreigh markets. Accordingly, the winemakers of the southwest could not pay such fees, which then would have to compensate by the prices of wines, so they decided to distribute their wines only on the domestic French market. As a consequence, quality drinks very similar in style to Bordeaux were unknown on the international market. So, for example, red Bergerac and Pecharmant, from the same varieties as Bordeaux, have similar aromatics, but a bit sweeter on richer, and on the palate they often have more powerful but rustic tannins. Compared to Bordeaux, the wines of the southwest of France are bright, straight and tart, but less refined. The reason for this is the greater distance from the ocean and, consequently, a more continental climate, which has a greater temperature difference between summer and winter, a hotter summer period and less rainfall than in the oceanic climate of Bordeaux.

But the autochthonous varieties of the south-west of France are no less interesting than the famous Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from Bordeaux. Some appellations in this part of the country are even required to use them in blends. One such appellation is Paschrenc du Vic Bilh, sweet or dry.

Some words about the name Pacherenc du Vic Bilh

Unlike many other wine regions, this name does not refer to any locality or geographical feature. It comes from the local expression (from the department of Béarn, where the appellation is located geographically) “pachets en renc”. Literally translating this expression will be difficult, but its approximate meaning means “vines lined up in a row”, and which gradually transformed into pacherenc. Vic Bilh roughly means “old/ancient place or country”. Historically, this area covers three settlements in the northeast of Bearn: Lambeye, Thèze and Garlin.

Geographic location and climate

The territory of this protected appellation of origin is the same as for Madiran red wine appellation. It is located near the Pyrenees, about 190 km south of Bordeaux and 50 km north of another appellation in the southwest of France, Jurançon, which lies directly in the foothills of these mountains. This geographical position forms a climate with the following features:

• Some influence of the Atlantic Ocean remains in the form of spring and autumn precipitations
• Mountains are the source of the warm föhn wind blowing from the altitude into the valley, which dries the air and reduces the risk of diseases in the vineyards
• Winters are colder and summers are warmer than in the oceanic climate of Bordeaux
• The Ardour River and its tributary the Léez, flowing through the region, somewhat soften the temperature difference between day and night, summer and winter
• Precipitations throughout the year is less than in oceanic regions
• In general, the climate is drier than in areas closer to the ocean

Autumn lasts longer here, it is warmer and less humid than in Bordeaux, thanks to the mountain wind and less rainfall. Therefore, red grape varieties with dense skins (Cabernet Sauvignon, local Tannat) ripen better in this southwestern region. White varieties are used for the production of both dry and sweet wines. All depends on the time of harvest – the closer it is to the end of autumn, the more sugar accumulate the berries under the mild autumn sun, and the sweeter the wine will be. By the way, thanks to such weather and the particularities of local varieties, dry wines also seem fragrant and rich, with a light sweetness, which is betrayed not by residual sugar, but by the components of the bouquet and the level of alcohol. And with the high acidity that these varieties also possess, the wines seem balanced.

Soils and terroir

The soils of the appellation are quite diverse:

• Gravel eroded from the Pyrenees – mostly on the hills
• Marl and calcareous soils – closer to the lowlands
• Boulbène – converted, leached alluvial soils, consisting mainly of clay, with some limestone, and characterized by high acidity. They are found in the western part of the appellation on the slopes and on the plateau

This soil composition has several advantages for winemaking:

• Limestoneis good at absorbing rainwater from the surface and storing it underground, allowing vine roots access to moisture during dry summers
• Clayholds water well, which makes it “cool”, i.e. slowly warming soil, slowing down the accumulation of sugar in the berries and preserving their acidity. In addition, clay contains minerals, not only necessary for the growth of the vine, but also it gives the berries unique flavors.
• Gravel is a warm soil that heats up during the day from sunlight and radiates heat to the vines in the evening, which contributes to better ripening of the grapes. This is especially important for local red varieties with a long ripening period.

Grape varieties allowed in the appellation

Paschrenc du Vic Bilh wines, both dry and sweet, must include at least one of the following main grape varieties (in total, there must be at least two varieties in the blend):

• Petit Courbu – adds honey and citrus tones to the bouquet, as well as softness in texture and fullness in body
• Courbu Blanc is a variety close to the previous one, which gives the bouquet honey and lemon notes
• Petit Manseng – responsible for rich fruity aromas of peach, apricot, elegant notes of flowers and sweet spices and candied citrus fruits, and also gives the wine high acidity. Able to accumulate high levels of sugar in the berries and stay on the vine for a long time, this variety is highly valued in the production of rich but balanced sweet white wines.
• Gros Manseng is another variety used in both dry and sweet wines. It has a dense skin, the ability to accumulate sugar and high acidity, which also makes it an important component of sweet wines. Gros Manseng brings brightness and richeness to the organoleptic profile of the wine

The local Arrufiac, which adds sophistication to the assemblage, and the Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc are also allowed, but are considered optional and cannot make up the most part of the blend.

Tasting: L’Insolite. Domaine de Moulié 2017

First, a little about the estate itself. Domaine de Moulié exists since the 1920s and its name comes from the Gascon word “Moulié”, which means “grain mill”. The vineyards of the estate occupy 16.5 hectares, of which 15 hectares produce grapes for red wines of the Madiran appellation, and 1.5 hectares for dry and sweet whites of the Paschrenc du Vic Bilh appellation (moreover, these vineyards are organic, with the appropriate European certification). Another 70 hectares owned by Domaine de Moulié are crops and trees, and these lands are HVE, which means compliance with norms and requirements for the conservation of the environment.
The 2017 L’Insolite collection of Domaine de Moulié that I tasted consists of local varieties Arrufiac, Petit Courbue and Petit Manseng, and their features are clearly reflected in the bouquet of the wine.

Colour: Medium Lemon
Aroma: medium (+) intensity, sweet, honey notes, lime blossom, ripe apricot, candied lemon zeste, candied oranges, light minerality.
Palate: dry, medium body with a rich, buttery texture, high acidity that balances a concentration of medium (+) alcohol (13.5%) and sweet flavors (the wine itself is dry), such as honey, quince jam, candied lemon and orange peels, candied fruits, fresh apricots and dried apricots, lime blossom, acacia. Medium (+) finish with pleasant sourness of lemon peel.
Overall impression and quality assessment: a very good wine with a unique balance of richeness and high acidity, characteristic of white wines from the foothills of the Pyrenees from autochthonous varieties. Due to the concentration and high acidity of this wine, it would be interesting to leave it for another 5 years and evaluate its aging potential.

BLICE quality assessment

Balance – a harmonious organoleptic profile – the wine is aromatic, round, thanks to sweet notes hues and oily texture, but at the same time fresh, thanks to high acidity
Length – quite long, with a pleasant acidity
Intensity – expressive aromas and taste with distinct notes
Complexity – a multifaceted bouquet of fruity, floral and mineral hints
Expression – the wine reflects the characteristics of the varieties and terroir of the appellation, combining a ripe bouquet and rich body, balanced by naturally high acidity

Analytical analysis of combinations with dishes

Due to its high acidity, aroma and relative density, this wine is a suitable accompaniment to intense winter dishes such as raclette or fondue. The acidity of the wine will balance the fat content of the cheese, and its concentration and aromatics will not be lost behind the oily and smoky taste of raclette.
Also, thanks to its minerality, this wine will accompany goat cheese covered with ash and smoked salmon. And, of course, sheep’s cheese, whose fat content will be balanced by acidity (besides, this combination will work according to the principle of locality), or mountain alpine cheese made from cow’s milk, which has milky and buttery notes and amazing aroma.

Table of contents:

The vineyard of Bordeaux covers about 110,000 hectares and brings together more than 6,000 winemakers. And this vast area is used not only for the cultivation of red grape varieties and the production of red wines. Although it is thanks to them that Bordeaux has become one of the most famous and prestigious vineyards.
Firstly, the region also produces white wines, dry and sweet, with their own appellations. Secondly, Bordeaux winemakers are not afraid to experiment with varieties that go beyond the appellation. Such wines are entitled only to the most common name – Vin de France (Wine of France), but tasting them is quite curious.
Moreover, a winemaker can lose the right to the name Bordeaux or one of its appellations (but not to the detriment of the quality of the wine) not only because he use varieties that are not allowed by the rules of the appellation, but also if he produces white wines in a territory intended only for reds.
One such example is the right bank appellations of Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac. Previously, white varieties grew on this territory (and the terroir was and remains more than suitable for them) and white wines were produced, but now this appellation is reserved is only for red wines, and whites can be called not Fronsac Blanc, but Bordeaux Blanc, i.e. refer to a broader and more general term.
The same applies to the Saint-Emilion appellation on the right bank and the Médoc on the left.
In this article I will talk about a small family Château Petit Fombrauge, which produces red wines of the Saint-Emilion Grand Cru appellation. The surface of vineyards of the Château accounts only 5 hectares (its main cuvée is produced from 2.5 ha), to which are added 9 hectares of the Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux appellation and only 0.85 ha of white varieties. Grapes, both red and white, grow on the classic terroir of Saint-Emilion – clay-calcareous soils. The set of red varieties is also classic – Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. But white ones are very original: Chardonnay, Colombard and Roussanne instead of the traditional for Bordeaux Blanc Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle.
It is this unusual white wine that will be discussed in the article.

Tasting: Blanc de Petit Fombrauge

Of the three varieties that make up the assemblage, only Colombard is allowed in the appellation “Bordeaux Blanc”, i.e. “White Bordeaux” (and in some sub-regions). Chardonnay is a Burgundy variety, which, except in its homeland, is also used in white still and sparkling wines of the Loire Valley and the south of France. Roussanne is a variety from the Rhone Valley, which is included in, for example, the appellation Saint-Joseph in white, as well as in the white wines of Provence. Each of the varieties brings original and typical notes to the organoleptic profile of the white wine of Petit Fombrauge, which are clearly distinguishable during tasting.

Color: pale lemon
Aroma: medium (+) intensity, with an unusual bouquet for white Bordeaux, from three varieties atypical for this . The Colombard variety gives the bouquet hints of lemon, lemon peel, green apple and fresh grass, the Roussanne variety adds floral notes of acacia, peach, wild flowers and stone fruit (yellow plum, white peach). Barrel-vinified Chardonnay contributes spice and light sweetness to the bouquet
Taste: dry wine with high acidity (given by Colombard) and medium body (given by Roussanne and Chardonnay), medium alcohol, medium (+) intensity of flavors and oily texture. The taste is dominated by fruit notes: citrus (lemon, lemon peel) and peach with a slight floral note. The aftertaste is medium / medium (+), due to the concentration that the Roussanne variety gives to the wine.

Overall impression and quality assessment: a good wine, original for the Saint-Emilion appellation in terms of both its color and assemblage. Elegant, delicate, summer drink, whose profile allows you to combine with it a variety of dishes. However, its body with its oily texture slightly lacks concentration of the bouquet and juiciness. The taste in the attack (the first sensation when tasting) is quite expressive, but the middle seems empty, with dominant acidity.

BLICE quality assessment

Balance – in general, a harmonious combination of original for Bordeaux grape varieties in a bouquet of aromas, but there is some lack of concentration in the middle of palate.
Length of finish – quite long, despite the lightness of the middle of the taste, with a pleasant acidity
Intensity – delicate aromas and flavors, but enough perceptible
Complexity – rather diverse and unusual bouquet, with a predominance of acid citrus fruits
Expression/Typicity – for Bordeaux, this white wine is, of course, quite atypical. But if we consider the role of varieties in the assemblage, without taking into account where the wine was produced, these grape varieties fully show their characteristic features.

Analytical analysis of combinations with dishes

In terms of pairing with dishes, my choice (and desire to experiment) fell on raclette and cold cuts:

• Three types of raclette cheese – classic, smoked and from goat milk
• Jamon-type dry-cured ham
• Boiled ham
• Salami
• Bacon
• Dried beef (viande des grisons)
• Italian coppa

Bonus – raclette with smoked salmon.
On the whole, this not quite local combination worked, but the organoleptic profile of the wine seemed to be too delicate for the expressive smoked tones of cheese and bacon.
To choose dishes for this wine, I referred not to the principles of similarity of aromas or tastes, but I aimed to balance a rather fatty winter dish by the acidity of the beverage, which in the same time should not be lost behind the rich texture of the food.
Of the advantages of the combination, I note:

• The fattiness of cheese and cold cuts (especially coppa and salami) was neutralized by the acidity of the wine
• The rich texture of a fatty cheese, whose butteriness was even more pronounced in its melted state (this is how raclette is served), was comparable to the body and buttery texture of wine

Table of contents:

The composition of a wine will not always include just one grape variety. In most cases, this will be a composition of two, three, four, and sometimes more Vitis Vinifera. And this is true not only for red, but also for white wines. But what is the interest for a winemaker to complicate his life and mix different varieties, while it would be ;ore si;ple to produce single-varietal cuvées? Let’s find out in this article.

What means the term “blend”

“Blend” in winemaking is a very important and almost inevitable process. By definition, it is a combination of two or more wines with different characteristics. Winemaker makes blends for different reasons:

• Creating a specific drink style
• Conformity to a certain standard and style consistency
• Achieving the most complex bouquet and the best balance of wine by combinating different varieties
• Hide imperfections of a wine

Technically, almost all wines represent a blend, to a greater of lesser extent. Usually, when making one and the same cuvée in several containers (barrels or vats) winemakers do not separate them into different cuvées according to the number of these containers. However, some containers can be set aside to make wine from grapes from a specific area with the best vines. Such cuvées will be bottled separatelly without blending with wines from other plots. By the way, selection of containers (barrels or vats) for a standard or premium cuvée (depending on how successful the vintage was) is part of the work of an oenologist or the so-called maître des chais.
An oenologist periodically (sometimes every day, for example, towards the end of alcoholic fermentation and during the maturation of wine in barrels) tastes the contents of vats and barrels, determining which of them to combine in a blend with other varieties, which ones should be left to mature longer and which should be reserved for premium cuvée.

Technique of blending

It is obvious that winemakers do not mix several vats at once with thousands of liters of wine without being sure that the result will meet their expectations. The first stage is blending of small volumes to determine the best combination. This combination can includeA:

• Single-varietal wines from different, complementary varieties – in this case, the winemaker seeks to combine varieties and their proportions in the future cuvée in such a way that the advantages of one variety will compensate a particularity that lacks to another. The best example here is the Bordeaux blend of Merlot and two Cabernets – Sauvignon and Franc. Merlot in a typical Bordeaux blend adds body and fruity bouquet to a wine, Cabernet Sauvignon is responsible for tannins, structure and aging potential, and Cabernet Franc – for elegant floral notes and acidity. In addition, the wine combines several varieties also in cases where it is difficult to produce single-varietal cuvées due to the “vintage effect”, i.e. variability of weather conditions from year to year, when varieties ripen differently.
• Wines obtained by “bleeding” the tank or from the press – in the production of red wines in a fermentation vat, grape juice is fermented and infused the hard part of the grapes – the skin, seeds, pulp and sometimes – stems. By At the end of fermentation, grape must is separated from the hard part (making up the main part of the cuvée), which is pressed to obtain the last drops of the finished must. Such must is highly astringent and serves to increase the level of tannins in the final cuvée.
• Wines with different periods of aging – usually only premium cuvées made from exceptional grapes with rich body and powerful tannins that need to soften during barrel maturation, ages in 100% new barrels. More often wines are not aged in barrels at all, or they spend some period in barrels aged 1 or 2 years (i.e. in barrels that have already been used for aging once or twice). But winemakers don’t have to mature the entire cuvée in the same containers. One part of it may not be aged in barrels at all, the other part may ripen in new barriques, and the third in 1 year old barriques or in large oak containers – fudres. Clay amphorae are now in vogue and a part of a cuvée can be aged there. Moreover, in addition to oak, for example, acacia, cherry tree or chestnut can be used as material for barrels. As you can see, using different types of containers for maturing, you can achieve a very rich palette of aromas

Thus, the blend technique used depends on the style that the winemaker wants to achieve, and on the characteristics and quality of the grapes.

Coupage/”cutting” and blending

To begin with, in French wine terminology, the term “assemblage” or “blend” is used much more often than “coupage”. In my conversations with winemakers, I have never seen the use of the word “coupage”. In fact, the use of one or another term depends on the context – if we are talking about table wines without a geographical name, which can be a mixture of wines from different varieties, different regions and vintages, then the term “coupage” is used. The term “assemblage”/”blend” is used in winemaking when it comes to wines with an appellation. In this case, the rules are much stricter – to preserve the appellation, only wines of the same year, obtained from grapes grown in the territory of the appellation, can be blended.
It would not be superfluous to add that several centuries ago the term “cutting” meant the dilution of wine with water, and the modern French dictionary Larousse defines it as “mixing wines of different qualities to obtain a better and more homogeneous result.”

Illustration and tasting

It is not necessary to own vineyards or be a winemaker in order to understand the importance of blend. It is quite possible to arrange such an informative atelier at home. Vignobles Siozard, a 60-hectare estate, produces single-varietal cuvées from all the red varieties of Bordeaux:

• Merlot
• Cabernet Franc
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Malbec
• Petit Verdot
• Carmenère

From such a variety, one can not only learn to identify the typical bouquet of each variety, but also try to compose a harmonious assemblage, characteristic of any part of the vast Bordeaux region.
For this purpose, the estate even produces a special set of single-varietal wines from three varieties and a special tool for assemblage. This is the set I recently tested. And here are some of my conclusions.

The set consisted of three single-varietal wines, from the varieties most common in Bordeaux:

• Merlot sans Souffre ajouté 2019 (no added sulfites)
• Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
• Cabernet Franc 2018

I tried them individually and in several blends, in different proportions, and made some rather curious conclusions. The tasting notes will be somewhat shorter than usual, as the purpose of this exercise was not to analyze the combinations of wines and dishes, but the characteristics of grape varieties.

Colour: All three wines had about the same color, ruby ​​of medium intensity, but the Cabernet Sauvignon was still slightly darker than the Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This is due to the characteristic of the variety – its skin is the most thick, with the largest amount of pigments among these three varieties.

Aromas:
Merlot– medium intensity, the bouquet is dominated by notes of red berries (raspberries, red cherries, strawberries) with a slight hint of mint and strawberry jam
Cabernet Franc – medium (+) intensity and more various. The berries in the bouquet are not only red, but also black (red and black cherries, red currants, raspberries). In addition, the ensemble is complemented by aromas of flowers (violet) and dried herbs.
Cabernet Sauvignon – medium (+) intensity, with bright typical notes of black berries (blackcurrant – the aroma-marker of this variety, blackberry, black cherry, black plum stands out especially) and a hint of menthol

Palate:
Merlot – medium (+) intensity, mainly fruity notes, slightly sweet, the same as its aromas (raspberry, red cherry, strawberry), but a delicate hint of pepper appears in the taste. Medium level tannins, body, alcohol level and length of finish, medium acidity (+). Tannins are a bit dry
Cabernet Franc – medium (+) intensity, the bouquet of flavors is the same as its aromas (red and black cherries, violet). Medium body and alcohol levels, medium (+) tannin levels and fairly smooth texture. However, its finish is medium (-)
Cabernet Sauvignon – medium (+) intensity, repeats the bouquet of black berry aromas (blackcurrant, black cherry, black plum). Medium/medium (+) body, medium alcohol, medium (+) tannins, dryish but balanced by the body and saturation of the wine, which translates into a medium (+) length of finish.

Comparison of three varieties

Merlotis considered the variety with the most juicy bouquet and round body and is responsible for the richness of the wine. However, the example from the set was the lightest and most delicate of the three wines, with the most noticeable acidity. This feature is explained by the climatic conditions of 2019. Overall, this vintage has been excellent for the region, with strong wine structure, good maturity and aging potential. But in some parts of the region, extended periods of heat have slowed the ripening of the grapes (which is a completely natural process for the vine, which, in conditions of drought and water stress, tends to survive rather than produce a crop). Perhaps that is why the Merlot from the set had such a profile.
The 2018 Cabernet Franc was the least fruity of the three, with herbs and flowers more prominent than sweet berries or jam. Its tannin level was comparable to Cabernet Sauvignon, but slightly superior to Merlot. Thus, the example from the set clearly represented what this variety serves in the Bordeaux assemblage:

• In the wines of the Left Bank (Medoc, Pessac-Leognan, Graves) it is present in small quantities and complements the bouquet with subtle floral notes. Cabernet Sauvignon which performs well on gravel soils is responsible for the structure of tannins
• In the wines of the Right Bank (Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Fronsac), Cabernet Franc is responsible for the structure of tannins, acidity and freshness of the bouquet. It plays the same role that Cabernet Sauvignon in blends of the Left Bank, because the latter cannot fully mature on the calcareous-clay soils of the Right Bank

Cabernet Sauvignon seemed to me the most tart and structured, but also the most balanced of all three varieties. Again, using the example from the set, we can observe the role of this variety – it compleets Merlot in the Bordeaux blend. The bouquet and body of the wine in the middle of the taste sensations (i.e. during the tasting, after the first impression – “attack”, and its conclusion – the length of finish) seemed to be less expressive, empty, while Merlot’s saturation helps to fill them.

Examples of blends

With these three wines, you can experiment and create a variety of blends, starting with a combination of two varieties (Merlot + Cabernet Sauvignon for a typical left bank blend and Merlot + Cabernet Franc for the right bank) or all three and ending with a combination that, most likely, is not even you will meet in Bordeaux – Cabernet Sauvignon + Cabernet Franc. Here are my impressions of my experiments.

Merlot (70%) + Cabernet Franc (30%) is an example of a right bank blend. The result is quite light, with high acidity and a floral-fruity bouquet. But this assemblage lacked richness and body to balance acidity and astringency.
Merlot (70%) + Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) – a variant of blend for the left bank was be more balanced, thanks to Cabernet Sauvignon, which completed the lack of Merlot’s body and complemented the bouquet with mature notes
Merlot (1/3) + Cabernet Sauvignon (1/3) + Cabernet Franc (1/3) – in general, the combination should be quite balanced, with more pronounced fruit tones, longer finish, more complete bouquet and more integrated tannins. However, this combination was not the best among the blends that I tried. Thus, taking different varieties in equal parts does not mean, that you will definitely get something perfectly harmonious and exceptional.
Merlot + Cabernet Sauvignon + Cabernet Franc – in different proportions (20%, 50% and 30%, then 7%, 23% and 70%) the assemblage manifested itself differently. The second option was the most successful, where Cabernet Sauvignon gave the assemblage its richness and balance, Merlot added a touch of freshness and a high acidity, and Cabernet Franc added floral and herbal tones to the bouquet. The first option was also quite good, but less balanced.
Cabernet Sauvignon + Cabernet Franc is a pure experiment, and not with disappointing results. The wine was astringent due to the structure of the two varieties, but the concentration of Cabernet Sauvignon was just enough to balance out the tannin levels.

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Many wine connoisseurs, having acquired basic tasting skills and knowledge, wish to try something unusual, whether it be a rare variety or a unknown region. And some of them are looking for special wines with history. Such an example is the wines of the French Foreign Legion.

History of the French Foreign Legion

This special unit of the French army was created on March 9, 1831 by King Louis Philippe I from several regiments, some of which participated in the Revolutionary Wars.
The purpose of creating such a special army was to prepare France for the colonization of Algeria, which also meant the convocation of an army for service only outside the continental part of the country. Menm who where recruited in the Foreign Legion were foreigners, from whom a significant part of the population of Paris consisted in that period. Mostly they were citizens of European countries, as well as the French, who had problems with the law. Thus, by creating such a unit, Louis-Philippe solved two problems at once – convening the necessary army and reducing the “undesirable” sections of the population in the country. Recruits were not asked for a name, which remains a tradition to this day (new legionnaires must change their name when joining the legion).
Today, the Foreign Legion is not used to take part in wars. It performs historical tasks, participates in the provision of humanitarian assistance to the population in zones of military conflicts and its evacuation, to prevent hostilities within the framework of missions under the auspices of NATO and the Unates Nations.
It would be appropriate to conclude a brief history of the Foreign Legion with its motto: “The Legion never leaves its own, neither in battle nor in life” (“La Légion n’abandonne jamais les siens, ni au combat, ni dans la vie”).

Wines of the French Foreign Legion

Attitude of this military unit towards its veterans is an embodiment of this motto. Former legionnaires can turn to a special part of the Foreign Legion – to the association of its veterans. Its task is to thank those who once faithfully served the legion, to be their home and provide them with moral and material support. The association gives veterans the opportunity to find a peaceful occupation they like, to find themselves, which is especially important after serving in hot spots. One such activity for veterans is winemaking.
Vineyards of the Legion, Domaine Capitaine Danjou, which he owns since the 1950s, are located in sunny Provence and have 40 hectares. Of these, about 1 ha are the oldest Grenache vines, planted in the “bush” or “gobelet” type. The rest of the plots were planted gradually, after a thorough analysis and preparation of the soil, because each plot was intended for a certain variety, type of wine and for wine production during 80 years.
The varieties chosen by the association of veterans for their wines are classics of the south of France. The red wines are Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre blends found in Provence and the South Rhone Valley. Rosé wines are made up primarily of Grenache, complemented by white Rolle and red Cinsault. White wines are monovarietal, only from the Rolle variety. And oenologists-consultants from Bordeaux are involved in the creation of cuvées, which make up the best assemblage, depending on the characteristics of the millesime and the maturity of the grapes.

Tasting: Cuvée des Képis Blancs, Côtes de Provence 2018

Color: pale lemon
Aroma: medium (+) intensity, very ripe and at the same time fresh in character (this is what distinguishes high-quality southern wines). The bouquet is dominated by stone fruits (white peach, apricot), wildflowers, acacia, lemon and lemon peel, with noticeable notes of honey and quince.
Palate: dry, with a sweetish oily texture, the flavor profile reflects a bouquet of aromas (peach, apricot, wild flowers), but has a more tropical character (fresh mango, melon). The body of the wine is medium, with a medium level of alcohol, a medium aftertaste and a medium acidity.
Overall impression and quality assessment: a very good wine, full-bodied, generous and sunny. Quite balanced, but a longer finish would better balance the juiciness and body.
Where and when to drink: An excellent aperitif (for example, with baked oysters), as well as a drink that can complement main dishes (white fish, like grilled dorado), parmesan risotto and medium-flavored cheeses (mature goat cheese, hard cheeses)

BLICE quality assessment

Balance – the rich profile is balanced by a sufficient level of acidity, and the ripe notes in the bouquet – by more delicate floral notes
Length of finish – medium length, with a slight citrus bitterness
Intensity – organoleptic profile (aroma and taste) of medium (+) intensity, quite expressive. Fruity and floral shades harmoniously complement each other
Complexity – predominantly fruity and floral, but quite varied
Expression / Typicity – a rich white wine typical of Provence with sufficient freshness due to the proximity of the Mediterranean Sea

Pair with salmon carpaccio with olive oil, basil and sesame seeds

Pair with fish and nori roll, risotto and seafood platter

Tasting: L’Esprit du Corps, Côtes de Provence 2018

Color: deep ruby
Aroma: medium (+) intensity, with a typical southern character. The bouquet is dominated by ripe berries (blackberries, black cherries, black plums, strawberries), with refreshing herbal hints of Provence garrigue (this term is used to describe southern fragrant herbs – rosemary, thyme, bay leaf), mint and delicate notes of violet. The depth of the bouquet is also provided by spices (black pepper) and smoky, “meat” hints characteristic of the warm southern assemblage Grenache / Syrah / Mourvedre
Palate: dry, with an expressive berry flavor, to which are added sweet hints of cherry and plum jam with more pronounced spicy pepper and fresh mint notes. A similar bouquet is also present in the average (+) finish. Medium (+) body, typicql fo southern wines, medium (+) alcohol levels and medium acidity. Tannins are medium (+), pronounced, but with a pleasant velvety texture
Overall impression and quality assessment: A very good, sunny wine with a typical southern character – a bouquet of ripe fruits with subtle hints of garrigue, a strong structure and a rich body. This rich profile is well balanced by acidity and long finish.
With what and when to drink: a great option for grilled red meat (entrecote, rib-eye steak), seasoned with black pepper, or fried in a pan with thyme and rosemary

BLICE quality assessment

Balance – rich profile is balanced by a sufficient level of acidity, and sweet notes in the bouquet are fresh herbal notes
Length of finish – rather long, mostly fruity
Intensity – organoleptic profile (aroma and taste) is expressive, with bright and distinguishable shades from different groups
Complexity – the bouquet is predominantly fruity and herbal, but varied and ripe
Expression / Typicity – wine with southern, Provencal features. Juicy, rich, with characteristic notes of dried herbs

Tasting: Cuvée du General, Côtes de Provence 2017

Premium cuvée of the Foreign Region and the best assemblage of L’Esprit du Corps. Here you can already feel the greater depth of the bouquet and more concentration, a denser body and a long finish. For this wine, the ripest and richest grapes are selected, which is clearly felt in its profile with a slight sweetness and a warming sensation from a rather high, but balanced alcohol level in the main profile. My tasting notes will tell you more about the wine.

Colour: same as Cuvée L’Esprit du Corps – deep ruby
Aroma: has a pronounced, intense aroma, with a noticeable sweetness. The bouquet has notes of plum jam, cherry jam, balanced by sour notes of ripe black cherries, ripe strawberries, as well as spicy aromas of licorice, black pepper and dried herbs. In addition, the bouquet contains the typical Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre assemblage meat and smoked flavors.
Palate: as pronounced as the aroma, with juicy and jammy fruity notes (black cherry, plum jam), but with a more pronounced note of dried herbs. Tannins are velvety, but pronounced – medium (+) level. The body is medium (+), which gives the wine balance and elegance. The alcohol feels like a high level, but due to the medium/medium (+) acidity, it feels lighter – as medium (+). Finish is medium (+).

Overall impression and quality assessment : very good wine, with expressive bouquet and excellent concentration, very sunny, more powerful than refined, but with its share of Provence elegance.

With what and when to drink: this concentrated wine is suitable for rich sauces and gastronomic recipes with meat with a pronounced taste (for example, game)

BLICE quality assessment

Balance – rich profile (deep body and warming alcohol) is balanced by acidity, and sweet notes in the bouquet are herbal and spicy hints
Length of finish – long, more complex than in the previous cuvee (fruity and spicy)
Intensity – the organoleptic profile is expressive, with varied and distinguishable shades
Complexity – the bouquet is various, ripe berries and confiture are especially pronounced, as well as spicy notes
Expression / Typicity – like the previous one, this wine has a southern character and typicity, but due to the best grapes specially selected for this cuvée, it is one level higher

Pair with veal tartare and balsamic syrup

Pair with ndeer fillet and tuber vegetables (mashed parsnips and roasted yellow radish)

Table of contents:

While everything is relatively clear with Burgundy and its four hierarchical levels of wine classification (see my article on Burgundy wines), the first encounter with classifications of Bordeaux wines can be quite confusing.
The two parts of the Bordeaux region – the right bank and the left bank – have their own hierarchies, some of which differ in terminology and criteria, although their principle remains the same – to distinguish the best wines. Many, though not all, winemakers strive to get into such a categorization applied to the appellations they produce, as receiving one of these statuses means recognition of the winemaker’s work and that the drinks can qualify for a higher selling price. We can say that Bordeaux is the most “classified” of all the French regions, as it is characterized by numerous historic winemaking estates, its particular market structure and the principle of commercialization of its wines through the interaction of three market players: winemaker, courtier and negociant. In addition, the Bordeaux region has a favourable position in the estuary of Gironde, which is a great advantage to access the international market. This means that the opinion of foreign buyers has to some extent influenced the emergence of the various Bordeaux «rankings».

Classification of the regions on the Left bank of Bordeaux

The «Left bank» is a collective term for appellations of Bordeaux regions on the left bank of the Garonne river (which crosses the city and the Gironde department):

• Graves.
• Pessac-Léognan.
• Sauternes-Barsac.
• Médoc

As many as four classifications can be counted on the left bank alone, overlapping in some communal (i.e. small, situated around a single settlement – a commune) names of the left bank.

The 1855 Grand Cru classification (Grands Crus Classés de 1855)

Emblem of the 1855 Grand Cru Classés

The most famous of all. It was specially created by the order of Emperor Napoleon III for the Universal Exhibition in Paris. France was hosting the exhibition for the first time (the previous one was in London), so it was very important for the Emperor to show the best of his homeland. On the orders of Napoleon III, the Chamber of Commerce of Bordeaux asked courtiers to make a list of the best Bordeaux wines, the most expensive and famous. The courtiers assigned 56 Châteaux of Médoc and one of Graves into five categories, from the 1st growth to the 5th growth, or Grand Cru Classé (only for red wines):

• Premier Grand Cru Classé – first classified growth
• Second …- second
• Troisième … – third
• Quatrième … – fourth
• Cinquième … – and fifth

and 21 Châteaux from Sauternes in three categories for sweet white wines (dry whites are not included, as sweet drinks were more highly valued and sold more expensively in the XIXth century):

• Premier Cru Supérieur – the highest level of classification
Premier Cru Classé – the first level
• Deuxième Cru Classé – second level

Château Pichon Baron Second Grand Cru Classé, Paulliac

Château d’Yquem Premier Cru Supérieur, Sauternes

However, the hierarchy was not based on tasting and assessing the quality of the drinks, but rather on their price levels during the last few decades, as well as on the prestige of the château and the fame of its owners.
Despite this not entirely objective method of ranking, which was chosen by courtiers in 1855, this first official Bordeaux classification still exists, and wines of the Châteaux, included in this list are considered as the best and most prestigious in the Bordeaux region, with high prices corresponding to this status.
The 1855 version has remained unchanged since its creation, in spite of the fact that it refers not to clearly defined areas producing the highest quality grapes, as in Burgundy, but to the whole vineyard of a Château. The vineyards may have changed considerably over time, for example, expanding but not always on a better terroir, or being reorganized and planted with different varieties.
Nevertheless, two exceptions in this classification were made. Without considering the estates, that disappeared since 1855 and were deleted from the list made by courtiers, there were only two changes in the official list of Grands Crus.
The first is the addition of Château Cantemerle from Haut-Médoc after courtiers had submitted the completed list to the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, but before the Universal Exhibition. The second, more significant change occurred in 1973, when Château Mouton Rothschild, previously listed among the Second Grand Cru Classés, was promoted to the highest status of first growth.
Today the Union de Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) brings together the chateaux in this classification, as well as those on the left and right banks of Bordeaux, who are noted for their exceptional wines, and professionnals involved in the wine trade and wine production. It promotes Grands Crus in the national and international market and monitors attempts to falsify these wines (unfortunately, it happens, as these expensive cuvées have a great success among collectors and at auctions). By the way, a good opportunity to get to know them is the annual Week-end des Grand Crus tasting, organized by the Union in May-June and available also to wine enthusiasts, and not only to professionals.

The emblem of UGCB, Union de Grands Crus de Bordeaux

Cru Bourgeois du Médoc (Cru Bourgeois of the Médoc region)

This is a historic ranking of the Médoc region, which dates back to the Middle Ages, but only began to take shape in the 17th century, when wealthy merchants and artisans living in towns (or «bourgeois», derived from the word «bourg», «city») began to acquire vineyards to consolidate their social status. At this time, the classification of crus bourgeois was not official but empirical, although a hierarchical list of châteaux with prices for their wines already existed in 1740. The Crus Bourgeois hierarchy was officially recognised by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce in 1932, and the Syndicate was established in the 1960s, with the status being shown on labels.
Since then, attempts have been made to restore the historical hierarchy of three levels:

• Cru Bourgeois.
• Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
• Exceptional, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel,

but they did not succeed until 2020. Until that time, only one level existed officially, the Cru Bourgeois, although these three categories date back to the 18th century, and even earlier one could find Cru Artisan and Cru Paysan, whose names reflect the principal occupation of the winery owner (craftsman or peasant, respectively), but were not part of the official categorization of wines.
It emerged from the long work of a panel of experts and takes into account several criteria that enable a château to achieve one of the statuses for 5 years:

• the quality of the beverage and its consistency as determined by the tasting of the last five vintages
• technologies, applied to work the vineyard
• the state of the winery, which plays a major role in the quality of the products (state of the production infrastructure, winemaking techniques, ageing and storage of the wine…)
• The infrastructure: the historic buildings and their state, the oenotourism offer, the facilities for visitors (both professionals and the general public)

Crus Bourgeois may not compete with the international fame of Grands Crus Classés de 1855, but these are high quality wines, which sell for a very reasonable price.

Emblem of Crus Bourgeois

The artisanal growth of the Médoc region (Cru Artisan de Médoc)

The term also originated in the 17th and 18th century, and also indicated the occupation of the vineyard owner. «Artisan» translates as «craftsman», and the owners of such, often smallholdings, were blacksmiths, cooperage workers…, in other words, craftsmans.
The status of «Artisan», over time, became secondary, as it was considered less prestigious than «Bourgeois», according to the hierarchy of the owners’ occupations. In 1989, at the initiative of a few winemakers, a Syndicate was formed and, in 1994, the winemakers obtained the right to put their status on the label.
All winemakers are united by the fact that they all love their business and know their work very well: both the terroir and the vinification and aging process, which is suitable for grapes and wines with the characteristics that they acquire in a given terroir. In addition, Bordeaux is rarely known for having such a pleasing quality/price ratio.

Emblem of Crus Artisan /strong>